yup, keys like Lysol posted were what I was thinking. I might actually have a whole set, but some of the nav cluster may be the wrong row. If you are interested I can check.
POS board:
http://www.ebay.com/ctg/Cherry-8200-G80-8200LPBUS-Wired-Keyboard-/74113268that's the exact board that I have, the big differences between that board and one of the high-end mechanicals you see touted here like Filco, Leopold etc. are a) it's ugly, and it was intended to be used at a POS workstation so it has an integrated card reader and b) while it uses the same Cherry MX switches, they do not have a supporting metal plate to stiffen them up.
In short, it's pretty much the cheapest way to get a Cherry MX board, and if you are the kind of person who likes to tinker, swapping springs and sliders to try a different switch type can easily be accomplished in an afternoon *because* it doesn't have the plate mounted switches - e.g. I have two of those boards, one w/ browns and one w/ clears. I wanted to try "ergo clears" and it didn't take long at all to make that happen. I eventually decided that I liked the straight clears better, but I didn't want to make the commitment to hack up a Filco (because you can't get a Filco with clears, and you can't get anything off the shelf with ergo clears, that is a custom switch made by using a clear slider and brown/blue/red spring) until I'd decided what I preferred best, because the Filco being a plate mount took me MUCH longer to swap than the POS board. I didn't keep track, but it probably took me 4-5 hours and would have been impossible without a good soldering station and a solder sucker.
Hope that made more sense now... sometimes you'll hear these boards called "rawko boards" because that is an eBay seller that about the time I started seriously researching keyboards was selling these old POS boards at fire sale prices and people who liked clears were snapping them up because they were the cheapest way to get a whole mess of clear stems and also the boards themselves if you don't mind the look are NKRO over PS/2 just like the good gamer boards and also the extra keys are programmable, if you want to set them up as media keys or whatever. I was actually using a rawko board at work for a while before I went off the deep end, I took an hour or so and made up an AutoCAD file for the labels for the relegendable keys, and knocked out a set of labels that put the AutoCAD functions on the F-key row (I used to know them by feel, but haven't done CAD work seriously in about 7 years so I'm a little rusty.)
Now that I think about it though, the other main reason that I stopped using the rawko board was the stupid ISO enter and pipe/backslash on an ostensibly "US" layout keyboard. I forgot all about that until I looked at the picture - so my idea won't work. All the doubleshots I have have ANSI enters, as it should be. But what you could do, if the ISO enter doesn't bother you, is get a set of keycaps from WASD in the biggest font/highest contrast that they offer, and put that on a rawko board.
