Help with a first time mechanical keyboard buyer. Need opinions!

[zorphon]

Hey all. New to GH, but I'm a member over on overclock.net and I've been reading lots of stuff on this board for awhile about keyboards.

Anywho, I'm thinking about buying a mechanical keyboard for the first time ever after using only rubber domes. Right now I have a Razer Anansi, and am getting sick of my finger fatigue.  

These are the things I'm looking for:
--Cherry MX Red switches. I've done all kinds of research and being a very light typer and wanting something as quiet as possible for mechanical, this is the switch that would fit me best.
--Preferably backlighting, any color as long as it doesn't look stupid. This isn't required though.
--NKRO via PS/2. I'd rather free up some USB ports if possible.
--If it has a wrist rest, it must be detachable. I wouldn't always be using it.
--Doesn't look stupid.
--Build quality is good, doesn't have to be absolutely a tank just not plastic crap either.
--Laser-Etched keys
--$150 or less

So all, I'm not super specific on my desires. Basically I just want Red switches and NKRO over PS/2.
TKL or Full doesn't really matter, if it is TKL I'll probably end up buying a cheap USB keypad for when I need to crunch numbers for a few bucks off Amazon.

I've been doing some research, and I think I've narrowed it down to some potential keyboards that I like, but feedback and additional input is highly appreciated and desired.
Let me know how these are, and feel free to give suggestions:
1) Max Nighthawk X9 $160 shipped
2) Quickfire Rapid w/Reds $115.85 with the wireless keypad, $100.90 for just the board with shipping
3) Ducky Shine?? (Ducky Shine DK9008S: http://tigerimports.net/sunshop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=11529): $150
4) Corsair K60/K90: Around $110-120

1) I really like the looks and features of this board, I like the ability to make macros and have an attached numpad. It's sleek and nice looking but has a lot of features. USB pass-through is a bonus. I've heard it's built well, it sure looks like it.  Backlighting is nice to have, a bonus for sure. Overall it has everything I'm looking for but I don't know much about it or the brand and it's $150 which is kind of spendy.
2) I like the looks of this board and the small form factor. It's a filco rebrand so it's built well, with its Costar stabilizers and all.  Backlighting being absent isn't the end of the world. If I bought this one, I'd buy this keypad for when I need one.
3) Don't know much about it, some people say Ducky sucks so I don't know. But I've heard the Ducky Shine is a good board?
4) K60 looks like it has everything I have, but I don't like the hybrid design. K90 looks like it has everything I have and some more bonuses, but I don't like the excessive amounts of macro keys making it more bulky, one row would have been fine. Plus I don't like the hybrid keys.

**I NEED MORE SUGGESTIONS!

Thanks for the help guys, I appreciate it. Looking forward to your replies.

[zorphon]

Anybody? I'm starting to really lean towards the Quickfire Rapid.

[IvanIvanovich]

CM Rapid or Leopold are both very good 87 key. Shine if you want backlight, or if you want smaller board go for Race or Pure.

[zorphon]

CM Rapid or Leopold are both very good 87 key. Shine if you want backlight, or if you want smaller board go for Race or Pure.

Between a Race, Pure, and CM Rapid which would you choose for a Cherry MX Red 87 key?
What are the differences of each of the 3?
Where can I buy the Race and Pure?

Thanks in advance.

[Sifo]

CM Rapid is the only one of those that are 87 key, Race and Pure are mini keyboards. They're not as available as the CM Storm either since you gotta get them from China. I'd recommend the CM Storm Quickfire Rapid.

[IvanIvanovich]

Well I would buy a Poker, as I already have 2 and my favorite keyboard, but they are impossible to find in reds now. You could buy blacks version and change the springs... Anyway you can get Vortex boards at mechanicalkeyboards. All the Vortex boards are comparable, up to you to decide on the layout differences what would work best for you. They are all 'mini' boards though, so if none of them grab you I guess go for the CM Rapid.

[zorphon]

CM Rapid is the only one of those that are 87 key, Race and Pure are mini keyboards. They're not as available as the CM Storm either since you gotta get them from China. I'd recommend the CM Storm Quickfire Rapid.

Do you think I'd be happy going from a Razer Anansi (Backlighting, Numpad, macro recording, 5 'M' macro keys) to a CM Storm Quickfire Rapid? The keys themselves would feel a lot better, but I am losing out a lot of features. It's just spending that much money to get a mechanical with the same features as Anansi is way spendy. I don't use my numpad often, just every once in awhile but I guess I don't really need it. Backlighting isn't the end of the world, but still. And it's always nice to have extra keys for MMOs... Hmm.

I didn't realize that those are mini boards, my mistake.

[Sifo]

Do you think I'd be happy going from a Razer Anansi (Backlighting, Numpad, macro recording, 5 'M' macro keys) to a CM Storm Quickfire Rapid? The keys themselves would feel a lot better, but I am losing out a lot of features. It's just spending that much money to get a mechanical with the same features as Anansi is way spendy. I don't use my numpad often, just every once in awhile but I guess I don't really need it. Backlighting isn't the end of the world, but still. And it's always nice to have extra keys for MMOs... Hmm.

I didn't realize that those are mini boards, my mistake.

Why not just go with Razer's Black Widow Ultimate if you like all that? It's not the best in quality, but it seems like you gotta sacrifice some of those features for an affordable mech. I don't know of many mech boards with macro keys (those corsair boards aren't very good, K60 isn't full mechanical and K90 looks bulky as hell). Black Widow will give you everything you want. Ducky Shine is generally accepted as a higher quality board with backlighting and colour options. CM Storm is like the beginner board everyone recommends now to newbies, so it would seem. Cheap and great quality.

[zorphon]

Why not just go with Razer's Black Widow Ultimate if you like all that? It's not the best in quality, but it seems like you gotta sacrifice some of those features for an affordable mech. I don't know of many mech boards with macro keys (those corsair boards aren't very good, K60 isn't full mechanical and K90 looks bulky as hell). Black Widow will give you everything you want. Ducky Shine is generally accepted as a higher quality board with backlighting and colour options. CM Storm is like the beginner board everyone recommends now to newbies, so it would seem. Cheap and great quality.

Gotchya. Now to just contemplate if I should go with the CM QFR or stick with my crappy membrane Anansi for now.

[Sifo]

Gotchya. Now to just contemplate if I should go with the CM QFR or stick with my crappy membrane Anansi for now.

Once you go mech you'll (probably) never go back

[zorphon]

Once you go mech you'll (probably) never go back

I know but go mech with slightly less 'features' and less money in the wallet, or stay rubber-dome with more 'features' and a more full wallet

[zorphon]

Well guys I just bit the bullet and even though I'm a poor high school student I just dropped $100 shipped on a CM Rapid w/Reds, $7 shipped on a cheap USB numpad for when I need to crunch numbers, and contemplating ordering some o-rings from WASD Keyboards. Since Reds are linear, I'd rather have a quieter landing if and when I bottom out, and a lower travel distance seeing as they're linear and I don't need to have them go quite as far. Is WASD Keyboards the only place I can get o-rings? They're rather expensive...

Also, did I make a good choice?
I ended up spending $107 on a QF Rapid w/Reds and a keypad for when I need it to plug in via USB. I'm going from a Razer Anansi rubber dome to the Cooler Master board, and it's my first mechanical. Did I make a good choice? Would you recommend the o-rings since I want it to be as quiet as possible?

**The biggest thing I'm worried about with such an expensive keyboard is my oils and what-not from my fingers accumulating on the keys. It does that now on my current keyboard but I usually wipe it off every couple days with a very damp cloth or a tiny amount of rubbing alcohol or something. Can I still do this with the mech keyboard? What's the best way to keep the keys clean from the buildup, and stay as new as possible?

[zorphon]

I'm curious about this too.

The o-ring part?

[rknize]

I have that same board.  It's nice for gaming.  I also have a WASD with reds and o-rings.  The o-rings kill most of the "lego" sound from the keys bottoming out, but they also reduce travel a bit.  I would get the board first and use it for a week or two before modding it.  If you have never used a mech keyboard before, it will likely be a little different than you expect.  Linear switches are a little weird at first too, so give them a chance.

As far as cleaning, it sound like the method you use will work just fine.  You just don't want water dribbling down into the switches.

[zorphon]

I have that same board.  It's nice for gaming.  I also have a WASD with reds and o-rings.  The o-rings kill most of the "lego" sound from the keys bottoming out, but they also reduce travel a bit.  I would get the board first and use it for a week or two before modding it.  If you have never used a mech keyboard before, it will likely be a little different than you expect.  Linear switches are a little weird at first too, so give them a chance.

As far as cleaning, it sound like the method you use will work just fine.  You just don't want water dribbling down into the switches.

Gotchya. Yea the Rapid shipped out today from CM, I literally have never been so excited for something like a keyboard in my life. I ordered some WASD Keyboards o-rings to have quality ones and if I end up not wanting to use them its not the end of the world. Thinking about ordering some keycaps to customize it a bit but I'll wait for that until I have the board itself. I also ordered a cheap USB numpad for when I need to crunch numbers. Just so exited going to this after a cheap gimmicky 'Gaming' rubberdome. One question though, how do I remove big keys like the spacebar to put o-rings on if I want? Will the plastic remover that come with the keyboard do just fine or do I need the wire puller as well? Sorry about wall of text, posted from iPhone haha.

[Sifo]

Gotchya. Yea the Rapid shipped out today from CM, I literally have never been so excited for something like a keyboard in my life. I ordered some WASD Keyboards o-rings to have quality ones and if I end up not wanting to use them its not the end of the world. Thinking about ordering some keycaps to customize it a bit but I'll wait for that until I have the board itself. I also ordered a cheap USB numpad for when I need to crunch numbers. Just so exited going to this after a cheap gimmicky 'Gaming' rubberdome. One question though, how do I remove big keys like the spacebar to put o-rings on if I want? Will the plastic remover that come with the keyboard do just fine or do I need the wire puller as well? Sorry about wall of text, posted from iPhone haha.

Those plastic removers are bleh. You can make your own wired one by playing around with a paper clip lol. I'm pretty sure you'll need a wired one to just give a light pull on both ends to pop it up.

[rknize]

The plastic ones may mar or scratch the keys a bit.  The CM Storm key caps are kind of cheesy, so you may not care.  The wire puller that WASD sells is nicer.  If you do use the plastic puller on the wide keys, pull them from the center.  They'll pop off the stem and then get hung up by the stabilizer wire.  You'll want to pull an adjacent key first to make room to unhook the key from the stabilizer.  You sort of slide it to that side and unhook the opposite end.  The stabilizer has some spring to it.  There's a better description in the Wiki.

[Sifo]

The plastic ones may mar or scratch the keys a bit.  The CM Storm key caps are kind of cheesy, so you may not care.  The wire puller that WASD sells is nicer.  If you do use the plastic puller on the wide keys, pull them from the center.  They'll pop off the stem and then get hung up by the stabilizer wire.  You'll want to pull an adjacent key first to make room to unhook the key from the stabilizer.  You sort of slide it to that side and unhook the opposite end.  The stabilizer has some spring to it.  There's a better description in the Wiki.

This whole time I thought I was just bending the stabilizer bar. But I get what spring you mean now

[zorphon]

Alright, I'll order a wire puller from EK or WASD. Would the EK one be fine? http://elitekeyboards.com/products.php?sub=access,keytools&pid=leokp

Reason being is I'm ordering some other stuff from EK, might as well order the wire puller at the same time. Or should I get the WASD one instead?

[rknize]

Yeah...same thing.

[zorphon]

Yeah...same thing.

Haha figured. Man once you go mechanical you really get sucked in. Now I'm looking at key caps and stuff, and I don't even have the board yet. Haha! They weren't kidding when they said once you go mechanical you get pulled in.

*EDIT* I just remembered something else.  Is it bad for the PCB plate that's under the keys to be bottoming out? Would o-rings be better for when the plastic on plastic contact is made between the plate and keys? Would it 'dent' it or anything after prolonged bottoming out? I know it's a silly question, just want to know.

[zorphon]

Anyone know for the o-rings thing?

[Sifo]

I thought the CM Rapid had a metal plate (I wasn't aware that plastic plates existed)? If so no there's no problem with that.

[zorphon]

I thought the CM Rapid had a metal plate (I wasn't aware that plastic plates existed)? If so no there's no problem with that.

Oh does it? Nevermind then. I just figured hey maybe bottoming out those keys and having them hit the plate was bad for the plate over prolonged periods of time, but I didn't know. Figured it was plastic, but if its metal than that is a lot better.

[Sifo]

Oh does it? Nevermind then. I just figured hey maybe bottoming out those keys and having them hit the plate was bad for the plate over prolonged periods of time, but I didn't know. Figured it was plastic, but if its metal than that is a lot better.

I'm pretty sure all plate mounted boards use metal plates

[rknize]

It's a metal plate on mine.

OP: normally, the stem in the switch bottoms-out at the base of the switch.  The bottom half of the switch snaps into the top half and the top half is resting on the metal plate.  When you use o-ring, the key cap itself will bottom against the top of the switch.  So really, the path between your fingertip and the plate is shorter when using the o-ring, but the soft rubber dampens that.

[zorphon]

It's a metal plate on mine.

OP: normally, the stem in the switch bottoms-out at the base of the switch.  The bottom half of the switch snaps into the top half and the top half is resting on the metal plate.  When you use o-ring, the key cap itself will bottom against the top of the switch.  So really, the path between your fingertip and the plate is shorter when using the o-ring, but the soft rubber dampens that.

I apologize but it's late and I'm not completely coherent, but could you elaborate what you mean? This is my first mech keyboard so I'm a noobie to switches and what-not. I have a basic understanding but I got a bit lost here, definitely my fault not yours. So are you suggesting using o-rings?

I did order some in case. All should get here this week. I also ordered a wire keycap puller because I heard the plastic ones can scratch keys and stuff, so hopefully that was the right choice.

[Sifo]

Edit: Hmm rknize is more knowledgeable than I, go with his answer.

[rknize]

I wasn't suggesting anything.  I was just rambling about how the o-ring changes the way the key lands when you bottom-out.  It never hits the plate directly whether you have an o-ring or not (someone had asked about that).  In short, the o-ring will land at the top of the switch, where normally the stem would be hitting the bottom of the switch.  The plate is kind of in the middle.  It's not very relevant anyway, because the o-ring softens the blow so much.  If you'd like an in-depth description of the switches and how they work, take a look at the Cherry Switch Wiki.

As far as the puller, the wire one is superior.