Author Topic: How can you tell if an IBM Model M is a good one or a bad one?  (Read 1334 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline TheQsanity

  • Thread Starter
  • Posts: 1165
  • SmallFry Lovin'
How can you tell if an IBM Model M is a good one or a bad one?
« on: Mon, 22 October 2012, 00:39:19 »
How can you tell if an IBM Model M is a good one or bad one? Cheap one or expensive one? Rare one from a common one?

edit: some say that the older ones are better? which ones must those be?
« Last Edit: Mon, 22 October 2012, 00:49:04 by TheQsanity »
SmallFry! <3

Offline cactux

  • Posts: 918
  • Location: Australia
  • Topre Knight
How can you tell if an IMB Model M is a good one or a bad one?
« Reply #1 on: Mon, 22 October 2012, 00:44:23 »
^  IBM?
[FS]☠ The temple lol ->HERE<-

Offline TheQsanity

  • Thread Starter
  • Posts: 1165
  • SmallFry Lovin'
Re: How can you tell if an IMB Model M is a good one or a bad one?
« Reply #2 on: Mon, 22 October 2012, 00:47:53 »
oops...
SmallFry! <3

Offline mbc

  • Posts: 469
  • Location: Germany
  • -delete-
AW: How can you tell if an IBM Model M is a good one or a bad one?
« Reply #3 on: Mon, 22 October 2012, 08:09:41 »
Ping?

Offline Computer-Lab in Basement

  • The needs of the many outweigh the needs of the few.
  • * Elevated Elder
  • Posts: 3025
  • Location: NCC-1701, USS Enterprise
  • Live long and prosper
Re: How can you tell if an IBM Model M is a good one or a bad one?
« Reply #4 on: Mon, 22 October 2012, 08:13:32 »
How can you tell if an IBM Model M is a good one or bad one? Cheap one or expensive one? Rare one from a common one?

edit: some say that the older ones are better? which ones must those be?
It's all about age and model #. 
tp thread is tp thread
Sometimes it's like he accidentally makes a thread instead of a google search.

IBM Model M SSK | IBM Model F XT | IBM Model F 122 | IBM Model M 122 | Ducky YOTD 2012 w/ blue switches | Poker II w/ Blue switches | Royal Kludge RK61 w/ Blue switches

Offline AKIMbO

  • HHKBro
  • Posts: 1778
  • Location: Tennessee
  • Know Topre, Know Peace. No Topre, No Peace.
Re: How can you tell if an IBM Model M is a good one or a bad one?
« Reply #5 on: Mon, 22 October 2012, 08:14:44 »
Ping?

Lol...that'a a joke right? Right?! :P
Mkawa Beta SSK | IBM SSK | IBM Model AT F | IBM F 122 | IBM Unsaver | LZ-GH (62g ergo clears) | HHKB Pro2 Type-S | HHKB Pro2 | Realforce 87U-Silent (55g uniform) | Leopold FC660C | Omnikey 101 (blue alps) | Kingsaver (blue alps) | Zenith ZKB2 (green alps)
| KBD75 (box reds)

Offline fohat.digs

  • * Elevated Elder
  • Posts: 6473
  • Location: 35°55'N, 83°53'W
  • weird funny old guy
Re: How can you tell if an IBM Model M is a good one or a bad one?
« Reply #6 on: Mon, 22 October 2012, 08:22:50 »
This dead horse clearly needs more flogging.

From my experience, there are about half a dozen "generations" of Model Ms: old, very heavy ones with wire stabilizers (IBM 1985-88), mid-era slightly modernized (IBM 1989-93) ones, mid-late 1990s Ms by Lexmark, and 2000s by Unicomp. I have owned every variation, and my current collection comprises about 2 each of "silver label" 1390131s, black label 1391401s, and blue label 1391401s.

Although I clearly like the old ones, most of mine have been substantially modded and would no longer be considered "typical" specimens of the genre. For one thing, I have bought a few recent boards for parts, such as a couple of barely-used M-122s, from which I harvested springs and other parts.

No one will dispute that build quality has slowly but steadily declined over the years, but there is great disagreement over how much and how significant this has been.

I have bought quite a number of IBMs on ebay, and at least 2/3 of them were good solid items. It is my habit to take them completely apart for cleaning and adjusting, right away, so ugliness and dirt do not particularly bother me. And I have spare keycaps, springs, and cables which are often damaged or missing.

I like the heaviest metal plates from the oldest boards, and I really like the square aluminum badges on the 1390131s, so that is what I rank highest. The 1391401 is surely the "classic" number and exists from near the beginning well into the early-mid 1990s Lexmark era. I would not want a 1390120 without the LEDs, but if you got one cheap, it could provide many good vintage parts for other projects.

Other, later part numbers are somewhat less pricey, but characteristics like lighter plates, attached cables, and single-piece keys do not really alter performance by all that much, even though you will hear it argued that they change the "feel" by a lot.

You hear the current Unicomps disparaged here, but they are perfectly good machines, and excellent value for the money. I would certainly recommend them to a newcomer.

The SSKs and "industrial" cases command very high premiums. The SSKs are different and many people consider a small footprint to be highly desirable, but the industrial gray color is simply a personal preference. The are very rare (probably well under 1% of the total Model M population) so they bring top dollar. And an industrial SSK (the Holy Grail) would surely fetch several hundreds at auction.

Back to your question: if you are asking whether the one that you see listed on ebay is "good" or "bad" look for some sort of statement about all keys tested and working. Or, what I do, bid on cheap ones and don't get bent out of shape if 10% turn out to be duds. Complete sets of keycaps sell for $30 from clickykeyboards or Unicomp, and most used Model Ms sell for between that price and twice that price. Plus a decent SDL cable will bring $10-12, so you will have some parts to keep or sell.

« Last Edit: Mon, 22 October 2012, 09:33:03 by fohat.digs »
Citizens United violates the essence of what made America a great country in its political system. Now it’s just an oligarchy, with unlimited political bribery being the essence of getting the nominations for president or to elect the president.
So now we’ve just seen a complete subversion of our political system as a payoff to major contributors, who want and expect and sometimes get favors for themselves after the election’s over.”
- Jimmy Carter 2015

Offline kywirelessguy

  • Posts: 33
Re: How can you tell if an IBM Model M is a good one or a bad one?
« Reply #7 on: Mon, 22 October 2012, 15:48:38 »
If you can get the seller to take a pic of the rivets then you can get a better idea what you are dealing with.

If there are a bunch of rivets missing in one area of the keyboard, by the time it gets shipped to you, you will probably need to bolt mod it.

If there are few missing rivets strewn throughout the board then you can either ignore it, or just do a quick repair by replacing the missing rivets with some small screws.


I personally think it is a crap shoot. I have seen wheelwriter 3 (earliest wheelwriter) with no missing rivets, taken apart the barrel plate is in perfect condition. I've also seen wheelwriter 3's that when the rivets are removed the barrel plates comes off in 4 separate pieces. It's just luck based on how it was stored over the years and the mix of plastic IBM happened to use that day.

The problem is it is hard to tell on the black plastic if there are cracks before you actually take it apart.


« Last Edit: Mon, 22 October 2012, 15:53:15 by kywirelessguy »