Best starter mechanical for a touch typist

[crthell]

Hello 

I am new to the world of quality keyboards, having had my interest rekindled by a $2 Dell QuietKey RT7D5JTW (made in Thailand) I picked up at the thrift store. While it is absolutely fantastic for a rubber dome, and it is by far the best I have typed on, I am wholeheartedly seeking a mechanical keyboard. As I type at about 80 WPM on a rubber dome, I would need something for touch typing rather than gaming (I'm not really a gamer.) I have heard nothing but good things about the IBM Model M, and wish to own one eventually, but am looking for advice on a starter keyboard to segue my foray into mechanical boards.

/crthell

[SmallFry]

A keyboard with Cherry MX Browns are nice, M's are also nice! MX offers more custom options, but an M will last FOREVER. Either you choose will be a good choice!

[wetto]

You can start by choosing your switch (it'd be nice if you went somwhere to test mechanical keyboards) and then buying a Cooler Master Quickfire Rapid with them (since it's one of the best built for the price and cheapest keyboards available and comes in four different switch types).

Some people may complain about Cherry MX Brown, others may diss Cherry MX Red, some may say Cherry MX Black isn't good and some may be annoyed by the sound Cherry MX Blue does, but the only one who can decide which one is the best, is you.

[rowdy]

If you like the tactile and audible feedback, something with Cherry MX blue switches would probably be best.

A CoolerMaster QuickFire Rapid (CM QFR) is one of the better, cheaper keyboards available at the moment.

Edit: Beaten by a minute!

[SmallFry]

Don't totally turn him away from the M's guys! They are indeed solid boards!

[tjcaustin]

Mine was even hand torqued to a certain  setting by a mr kawa.  mr. e kawa.

[wetto]

Don't totally turn him away from the M's guys! They are indeed solid boards!

No one's turning away from the bloody tanks!  )

If he wants a keyboard that's awesome to type and is also prepared to withstand a Zombie Apocalypse and work as a melee weapon better than anything found on the Dead Island game, there's your choice 

Even still, it's good to try lots of different switches if possible, to find the right one for you... Do you know any stores which might have mechanical keyboards available for testing, crthell?

[SmallFry]

crthell,
Don't get auction fever. 'nuff said..

*looks at TJ*

[crthell]

Wow, this place is awesome. Never expected so many replies in such a short period of time!

I'm not really sure of any places that have mechanicals on display. Are there any brick-and-mortar stores that sell them? If so, I could probably hunt down a place and see how they feel. The one problem I have with the zombie apocalypse tanks is: they're not easily accessible to try before purchase! (probably due to the fact you could destroy the cashier with one strike to the head lol.)

/crthell

[SmallFry]

Well...I basically trolled this thread, due to me watching the Spy...

[rowdy]

Wow, this place is awesome. Never expected so many replies in such a short period of time!

You happened to mention a model M in a positive light - that is going to bring a certain percentage of the GHers out, drooling

[wetto]

I just don't know why they're not called "IBM Panzer M".

[SmallFry]

I just don't know why they're not called "IBM Panzer M".

Show Image

That's classic!

[crthell]

Well...I basically trolled this thread, due to me watching the Spy...

?? Is there an inside joke I should know?

[crthell]

I just don't know why they're not called "IBM Panzer M".

Show Image

That is hysterical!

[SmallFry]

Well...I basically trolled this thread, due to me watching the Spy...

?? Is there an inside joke I should know?

The Spy (above in the quick links) is an always updating thread feed. I followed this thread via the spy, hence why I'm in this thread quite a bit.

[crthell]

Well...I basically trolled this thread, due to me watching the Spy...

?? Is there an inside joke I should know?

The Spy (above in the quick links) is an always updating thread feed. I followed this thread via the spy, hence why I'm in this thread quite a bit.

Ah, I see! Thanks! That's a pretty cool feature

[wow I look like a n00b!]

[Burz]

Things you should ask yourself:
 

Do I want tactile feedback, or a linear feel?

Do I want audible feedback (clicky switches) or no click?

Overall keyboard noise level? (For instance, Model M is on the louder end of the spectrum)

Full size (104 key) or compact (without number pad)... some prefer the latter because of mouse placement.

Price range?

[crthell]

Things you should ask yourself:
 

Do I want tactile feedback, or a linear feel?

Do I want audible feedback (clicky switches) or no click?

Overall keyboard noise level? (For instance, Model M is on the louder end of the spectrum)

Full size (104 key) or compact (without number pad)... some prefer the latter because of mouse placement.

Price range?

Can you please explain tactile vs. linear? I hear the terms quite a bit, but aren't exactly sure of the distinct differences. As to the others.
-I like audible feedback, but its not mandatory
-I like loud and noisy, as I'm not in a silent environment
-I'm not actually a fan of tenkeyless, as I can touchtype with the letters but not with the upper row of numbers/symbols
-Price is a problem. I'd probably lean toward a used board, as I'm the type that likes cleaning up old things and bringing them to life. What would be the price of a quality first mech?

[tjcaustin]

Too bad I didn't say this before now, but CMStorm Quickfire Rapids were $30 off until 15 min ago.  But they're regularly on a good sale like that.  I bought my first one for 30% off and my second for $40 off.  They're great boards and if you watch your sales right, you can end up with all four of the major Cherry switches for less than $200 total.

crthell,
Don't get auction fever. 'nuff said..

*looks at TJ*

To be fair, I *almost* told mkawa to sell it to Alessandro instead and just donate $50 to the cause but I'm more happy to have bought it than not.

[tjcaustin]

Things you should ask yourself:
 

Do I want tactile feedback, or a linear feel?

Do I want audible feedback (clicky switches) or no click?

Overall keyboard noise level? (For instance, Model M is on the louder end of the spectrum)

Full size (104 key) or compact (without number pad)... some prefer the latter because of mouse placement.

Price range?

Can you please explain tactile vs. linear? I hear the terms quite a bit, but aren't exactly sure of the distinct differences. As to the others.
-I like audible feedback, but its not mandatory
-I like loud and noisy, as I'm not in a silent environment
-I'm not actually a fan of tenkeyless, as I can touchtype with the letters but not with the upper row of numbers/symbols
-Price is a problem. I'd probably lean toward a used board, as I'm the type that likes cleaning up old things and bringing them to life. What would be the price of a quality first mech?

Can you please explain tactile vs. linear? I hear the terms quite a bit, but aren't exactly sure of the distinct differences. As to the others.Tactile means that there's feedback when you press a key down, ranging from a kinda gritty feeling blip to the clicks of blues/greens.  Linear is the opposite.  There's still feedback, but it's different.
-I like audible feedback, but its not mandatory See below
-I like loud and noisy, as I'm not in a silent environment Try Cherry MX blues/greens
-I'm not actually a fan of tenkeyless, as I can touchtype with the letters but not with the upper row of numbers/symbols Check out the Quickfire TK or Trigger for good boards with 10key stuff
-Price is a problem. I'd probably lean toward a used board, as I'm the type that likes cleaning up old things and bringing them to life. What would be the price of a quality first mech? Go go CoolerMaster Quickfire Pro boards! With no discount, they run ~$80 and there's usually a big discount code floating around, watch the good deals forum.  And check once in a while for factory refurb on the cmstore website.

It seems like I'm overly excited about CMStorm stuff, but it's good beginner equipment at a great price. 

[furosuto81]

I definitely can't say what's "best"...but I see you have an Apple Extended II. If you want a "modernized" version of that, consider the Matias Quiet Pro. It has a redeveloped version of the dampened ALPS switches that the AEKII uses. They're quite tactile, and non-clicky (they make more of a muted "thock" sound). If you like the feel on the AEKII as I do, you'll like the MQP as well.

On the other hand, If you want something clicky and loud...yes...buckling spring 

Can you please explain tactile vs. linear? I hear the terms quite a bit, but aren't exactly sure of the distinct differences. As to the others.

Linear = resistance is smooth all the way till bottoming out. The switch actuates somewhere in the middle.
Tactile = resistance increases until you feel a "bump", then reduces quickly till bottoming out. The switch usually actuates at the bump.

Neither of these have an effect on "clickiness". Theres usually something in the switch mechanism to create the click sound. So you get physical and audible feedback (aside from the sound of the key bottoming out)

[wetto]

I definitely can't say what's "best"...but I see you have an Apple Extended II. If you want a "modernized" version of that, consider the Matias Quiet Pro. It has a redeveloped version of the dampened ALPS switches that the AEKII uses. They're quite tactile, and non-clicky (they make more of a muted "thock" sound). If you like the feel on the AEKII as I do, you'll like the MQP as well.

On the other hand, If you want something clicky and loud...yes...buckling spring 

Can you please explain tactile vs. linear? I hear the terms quite a bit, but aren't exactly sure of the distinct differences. As to the others.

Linear = resistance is smooth all the way till bottoming out. The switch actuates somewhere in the middle.
Tactile = resistance increases until you feel a "bump", then reduces quickly till bottoming out. The switch usually actuates at the bump.

Neither of these have an effect on "clickiness". Theres usually something in the switch mechanism to create the click sound. So you get physical and audible feedback (aside from the sound of the key bottoming out)

Besides, Matias is one of the few companies that also post stuff in here! Props up for them, really great to see that they have some interest with our community!

[furosuto81]

Besides, Matias is one of the few companies that also post stuff in here! Props up for them, really great to see that they have some interest with our community!

Unfortunately, based on his replies, the MQP would be out of his price range.
Looks like it will be CMStorm stuff on sale, or an eBay purchase. Not that there's anything wrong with those options

[Burz]

Can you please explain tactile vs. linear? I hear the terms quite a bit, but aren't exactly sure of the distinct differences. As to the others.
-I like audible feedback, but its not mandatory
-I like loud and noisy, as I'm not in a silent environment
-I'm not actually a fan of tenkeyless, as I can touchtype with the letters but not with the upper row of numbers/symbols
-Price is a problem. I'd probably lean toward a used board, as I'm the type that likes cleaning up old things and bringing them to life. What would be the price of a quality first mech?

As others pointed out, tactile means the switch produces a 'bump' close to the instant that the switch activates. It usually occurs 1/4 to 1/2 of the way into the keystroke. Your Apple EKII keyboard is tactile (and also dampened to reduce noise) -- around here its considered a very good keyboard for typists.

How do you like the Apple? Can't you use that instead of the rubber dome? USB adapters exist for it.

[czarek]

Go with Model M/Unicomp. BS is a benchmark switch.

[fohat.digs]

You know what they say about opinions, "Everybody has one ..... "

There is a spectrum of mechanical styles as well as several "non-mechanical" keyboard types.

It is almost impossible to know what you really like until you have tried a few different ones. The Cherry family is interesting because they achieved several outcomes from very similar mechanisms. The Alps switches followed a similar trajectory. Buckling springs are unique and very different.

I think that if you tried (and "tried" means "used for several hours minimum, preferably several days or weeks") Cherry red switches and buckling springs, you would see the broad width of the spectrum. Then save up your money for a Topre board and guess what weight you prefer.

Having said all that, my wife, a professional journalist who types thousands of words a day, thinks that the latest and thinnest product of Apple (whatever that currently is) is the best keyboard in the world.

You can't make an informed decision without trying out a variety of options.

Is a car better than a truck?

[0100010]

Go with Model M/Unicomp. BS is a benchmark switch.

This.  Based on your requirements above a Model M sounds like it would serve you best // and you should be able to pick one up for about 30 bucks.

[SmallFry]

Go with Model M/Unicomp. BS is a benchmark switch.

This.  Based on your requirements above a Model M sounds like it would serve you best // and you should be able to pick one up for about 30 bucks.

Agreed.

[crthell]

I really like the feel of my AEKII. Its a bit muted, but the feel is really, really nice. Would it be more cost effective to get an ADB-USB adapter? Would that even work with my Windows PCs? I saw an adapter, but it was way too expensive (like $50, so more than a used M.)

I'm leaning toward an original M, just because they can be picked up cheaper and seem to last forever. I've done some research into Unicomp boards, and there seem to be some quality control issues (bubbles in the plastic, etc.)

Apologies for my ignorance towards this, I'm just trying to weigh my options!

[anomaly]

You can pick up a "modern" (brand new) Model M keyboard made by Unicomp, who bought the patents for the buckling spring switch technology. For about $80. Not bad compared compared to other mechanical switch keyboards. For a non-gamer typist, they can be an excellent switch. It might fatigue your fingers a bit the first time you use them (they're pretty stiff), but I can absolutely fly when typing on it. I think my fastest Typeracer speed was with those buckling springs (117WPM I think?).

[IvanIvanovich]

If you like the Alps in your AEK, and not afraid to solder, you could pick up a Dell AT101 and swap them into it, that is if you still prefer them. Also Model M are cheap, so no reason not to get one and try it at least. Also if you keep an eye out Cherry G80 can be had for as little as $15 on ebay from time to time, and most usually can find something under $40. Just can't be so choosy about switch type then, most likely to get blacks or maybe browns.

[crthell]

You can pick up a "modern" (brand new) Model M keyboard made by Unicomp, who bought the patents for the buckling spring switch technology. For about $80. Not bad compared compared to other mechanical switch keyboards. For a non-gamer typist, they can be an excellent switch. It might fatigue your fingers a bit the first time you use them (they're pretty stiff), but I can absolutely fly when typing on it. I think my fastest Typeracer speed was with those buckling springs (117WPM I think?).

Just out of curiosity, what was your wpm before the M?

[crthell]

If you like the Alps in your AEK, and not afraid to solder, you could pick up a Dell AT101 and swap them into it, that is if you still prefer them. Also Model M are cheap, so no reason not to get one and try it at least. Also if you keep an eye out Cherry G80 can be had for as little as $15 on ebay from time to time, and most usually can find something under $40. Just can't be so choosy about switch type then, most likely to get blacks or maybe browns.

Are the alps in the AEKII of a higher quality than the AT101W? I'm pretty sure mine is an Alps, but it may be a Mitsumi. I'll have to study the switches and pull a key.

[Burz]

I really like the feel of my AEKII. Its a bit muted, but the feel is really, really nice. Would it be more cost effective to get an ADB-USB adapter? Would that even work with my Windows PCs? I saw an adapter, but it was way too expensive (like $50, so more than a used M.)

I'm leaning toward an original M, just because they can be picked up cheaper and seem to last forever. I've done some research into Unicomp boards, and there seem to be some quality control issues (bubbles in the plastic, etc.)

Apologies for my ignorance towards this, I'm just trying to weigh my options!

Belkin and iMate used to make ADB adapters that work with Windows. You can sometimes find them used, although....... Belkin's product page looks like they have new ones in stock for $32.
http://www.belkin.com/IWCatProductPage.process?Product_Id=87365

I would stick with the AEKII if I possibly could. It is one of the better-feeling and quieter mechanical keyboards out there. Matias just released a new Quiet Pro keyboard for people who want the tactile feeling but not the noise. The cheapest I've seen it is $139, however.

The Model M is nice, but I used them for years and really that was too long for me. Too much finger strain and too much noise.

Another alternative would be a used SGI or Dell AT101W.

[furosuto81]

Sticking with the AEKII is definitely not a bad option! You can also find Griffin iMate ADB to USB converters on Amazon. for less than $40. That's what I used with my AEKII at work until I switched to the MQP. The Dell AT101W uses an ALPS switch, but it is different from the one used in the AEKII. From what I've heard, they don't age well though, so YMMV.

I don't think you can go wrong with either the Model M or AEKII. From everything I've read they're pretty much the one-two punch of best all-time keyboards. Very different feel and sound though. Different from any modern Cherry switch board.

Like everyone has been saying though, it's a very subjective thing

[anomaly]

You can pick up a "modern" (brand new) Model M keyboard made by Unicomp, who bought the patents for the buckling spring switch technology. For about $80. Not bad compared compared to other mechanical switch keyboards. For a non-gamer typist, they can be an excellent switch. It might fatigue your fingers a bit the first time you use them (they're pretty stiff), but I can absolutely fly when typing on it. I think my fastest Typeracer speed was with those buckling springs (117WPM I think?).

Just out of curiosity, what was your wpm before the M?

On my browns, I average 90 WPM. I type a bit slower on blues for some reason.

[Burz]

Are the alps in the AEKII of a higher quality than the AT101W? I'm pretty sure mine is an Alps, but it may be a Mitsumi. I'll have to study the switches and pull a key.

The Dell uses black Alps which are not as good. I think the SGI version uses white or cream which are pretty nice.

Does your AEKII have a serial number beginning with 'M'? I believe that would be a Mitsumi.

[crthell]

Are the alps in the AEKII of a higher quality than the AT101W? I'm pretty sure mine is an Alps, but it may be a Mitsumi. I'll have to study the switches and pull a key.

The Dell uses black Alps which are not as good. I think the SGI version uses white or cream which are pretty nice.

Does your AEKII have a serial number beginning with 'M'? I believe that would be a Mitsumi.

The model number is M3501. If that makes it a Mitsumi, which would be a better buy: an iMate adapter, or a used M? How do the Mitsumi switches compare to the AEKIIs with Alps?

[crthell]

I really like the feel of my AEKII. Its a bit muted, but the feel is really, really nice. Would it be more cost effective to get an ADB-USB adapter? Would that even work with my Windows PCs? I saw an adapter, but it was way too expensive (like $50, so more than a used M.)

I'm leaning toward an original M, just because they can be picked up cheaper and seem to last forever. I've done some research into Unicomp boards, and there seem to be some quality control issues (bubbles in the plastic, etc.)

Apologies for my ignorance towards this, I'm just trying to weigh my options!

Belkin and iMate used to make ADB adapters that work with Windows. You can sometimes find them used, although....... Belkin's product page looks like they have new ones in stock for $32.
http://www.belkin.com/IWCatProductPage.process?Product_Id=87365

I would stick with the AEKII if I possibly could. It is one of the better-feeling and quieter mechanical keyboards out there. Matias just released a new Quiet Pro keyboard for people who want the tactile feeling but not the noise. The cheapest I've seen it is $139, however.

The Model M is nice, but I used them for years and really that was too long for me. Too much finger strain and too much noise.

Another alternative would be a used SGI or Dell AT101W.

The noise isn't really a big problem for me, but nobody likes finger strain! How many of you guys feel the same about the M?

PS: is your description a Money for Nothing reference?

[Burz]

Are the alps in the AEKII of a higher quality than the AT101W? I'm pretty sure mine is an Alps, but it may be a Mitsumi. I'll have to study the switches and pull a key.

The Dell uses black Alps which are not as good. I think the SGI version uses white or cream which are pretty nice.

Does your AEKII have a serial number beginning with 'M'? I believe that would be a Mitsumi.

The model number is M3501. If that makes it a Mitsumi, which would be a better buy: an iMate adapter, or a used M? How do the Mitsumi switches compare to the AEKIIs with Alps?

It looks like the M3501 had some units using Mitsumi and others using Alps. If you pull off a key cap, the switch housing will say "ALPS" if the keyboard uses Alps switches.
https://secure.flickr.com/photos/ballaschk/2606545447/

If the noise and key stiffness of the Model M don't bother you, then getting one will at least give you another reference point for keyboards. But my personal choice is to lean toward getting the adapter if your keyboard has the Alps switches (using the AEKII is the better value, esp. if you already know you like typing on it).

[crthell]

Are the alps in the AEKII of a higher quality than the AT101W? I'm pretty sure mine is an Alps, but it may be a Mitsumi. I'll have to study the switches and pull a key.

The Dell uses black Alps which are not as good. I think the SGI version uses white or cream which are pretty nice.

Does your AEKII have a serial number beginning with 'M'? I believe that would be a Mitsumi.

The model number is M3501. If that makes it a Mitsumi, which would be a better buy: an iMate adapter, or a used M? How do the Mitsumi switches compare to the AEKIIs with Alps?

It looks like the M3501 had some units using Mitsumi and others using Alps. If you pull off a key cap, the switch housing will say "ALPS" if the keyboard uses Alps switches.
https://secure.flickr.com/photos/ballaschk/2606545447/

If the noise and key stiffness of the Model M don't bother you, then getting one will at least give you another reference point for keyboards. But my personal choice is to lean toward getting the adapter if your keyboard has the Alps switches (using the AEKII is the better value, esp. if you already know you like typing on it).

I have Alps! Yay! I'm pretty sure I'll get the adapter now, since I know I really like the feel of the AEKII!