Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)

[Awoke]

I'm looking for a full size keyboard, with aluminium or zinc (metal) frame, and Cherry MX Clear switches.

Any idea of one or where I could search for one?

[Miscfu]

Hello! Doing my first keyboard build, was just wondering if there were any potential compatibility issues I may have overlooked.
I've ordered:

• Portico68 Obsidian build kit from KeyCompany
• Tangerine Light switches / stabs
• SLK Dessau Dark Base Kit

Thank you! 

[user 18]

Hello! Doing my first keyboard build, was just wondering if there were any potential compatibility issues I may have overlooked.
I've ordered:

• Portico68 Obsidian build kit from KeyCompany
• Tangerine Light switches / stabs
• SLK Dessau Dark Base Kit

Thank you! 

I am not familiar with this board or keyset, but have looked it up. As far as I can tell, everything looks compatible. The only odd keycaps you will need for this layout are a 1.75u right shift, and different-row home/end/pgup/pgdn. The keyset you mention includes the 1.75u shift, and because it doesn't seem to have different profiles per row, you don't run into any concerns with the home/end/pgup/pgdn like you would with, for example, Cherry profile caps.

The switches are PCB mount, and your PCB looks to have the additional holes drilled to be compatible with these. In the event that you get a PCB without these holes, or there is a size mismatch, you can turn PCB mount switches into plate mount switches by cutting off the plastic legs on the side, but it doesn't appear like that will be necessary in your case.

The stabilizers are also PCB mount, and includes the correct number and size of wires. You will need the shorter of the two spacebar stabilizer wires.

Good luck with your first build

[Prince Valiant]

Are there any clicky hall effect or optical switches which are MX compatible (mount and stem)?

[Simon11777]

Hello, I need help finding a mechanical keyboard pad on AliExpress Keyboard 60% in iso

[Awoke]

I got my first MK. It's a lot more impressive than I was expecting. Now, I want to make it as quiet as possible. Any help of suggestions on where to start or the appropriate place to find information will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

[ander]

Should you wear brown shoes with a blue suit?

[ShangWang]

I found this 4mm thick foam in my room that I could potentially use for dampening my HyperX Alloy Origins but I'm not sure what kind of material it is or if it's appropriate for the task. I just know that if the foam is not electrically conductive, it would work.





https://imgur.com/a/YjFSftK

The foam is a bit hard, with some rigidity and has a somewhat smooth texture with little pores. Does anyone know what material this is? Would it be good for keyboard dampening?

[ShangWang]

I plan on purchasing a soldering matt for resoldering a HyperX Alloy Origins which presumably has an aluminum plate on the exterior and the switches are plate mounted.

The silicone matt has these magnetic areas for placing your screws, but my keyboard is just big enough that it takes up the whole matt space and overlaps these magnetic areas.

If my PCB or any part of the keyboard touches these magnetic parts while soldering, can it cause any damage whatsoever, or is it completely safe?

If there was any damage, would the magnets have to be extremely strong for it to do anything?

[zouzou]

Now this leads me too a somewhat related follow up question. Is it / would it be possible to make double-shots for back-lit keycaps?
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[invariance]

I plan on purchasing a soldering matt for resoldering a HyperX Alloy Origins which presumably has an aluminum plate on the exterior and the switches are plate mounted.

The silicone matt has these magnetic areas for placing your screws, but my keyboard is just big enough that it takes up the whole matt space and overlaps these magnetic areas.

If my PCB or any part of the keyboard touches these magnetic parts while soldering, can it cause any damage whatsoever, or is it completely safe?

If there was any damage, would the magnets have to be extremely strong for it to do anything?

Nothing to worry about. Think of a generator where the fast motion of many wires in a loop through a magnetic field creates a voltage. Moving a circuit board over a magnet will not do anything.
If you drag your feet over polyester carpet and then touch the circuit board, that might be a different story  )
Discharge yourself by touching someone‘a earlobe first.

[ShangWang]

I plan on purchasing a soldering matt for resoldering a HyperX Alloy Origins which presumably has an aluminum plate on the exterior and the switches are plate mounted.

The silicone matt has these magnetic areas for placing your screws, but my keyboard is just big enough that it takes up the whole matt space and overlaps these magnetic areas.

If my PCB or any part of the keyboard touches these magnetic parts while soldering, can it cause any damage whatsoever, or is it completely safe?

If there was any damage, would the magnets have to be extremely strong for it to do anything?

Nothing to worry about. Think of a generator where the fast motion of many wires in a loop through a magnetic field creates a voltage. Moving a circuit board over a magnet will not do anything.
If you drag your feet over polyester carpet and then touch the circuit board, that might be a different story  )
Discharge yourself by touching someone‘a earlobe first.

Thanks! I don't think I'll always have a person to discharge myself, but I do have a metal ruler that is sitting on my wooden table. Hopefully that does a decent enough job!

[ShangWang]

When soldering do I need to add more solder to my iron if I applied a can of tip tinner, or does that not help? Will it make the iron worse?

[Sifo]

When soldering do I need to add more solder to my iron if I applied a can of tip tinner, or does that not help? Will it make the iron worse?

Tip tinner is mostly for cleaning and protecting the iron, for a keyboard you can probably just get straight to soldering without adding more to the tip itself, just start feeding to the joint after heating it up a bit.

[ShangWang]

When soldering do I need to add more solder to my iron if I applied a can of tip tinner, or does that not help? Will it make the iron worse?

Tip tinner is mostly for cleaning and protecting the iron, for a keyboard you can probably just get straight to soldering without adding more to the tip itself, just start feeding to the joint after heating it up a bit.

Thanks! I was thinking tip-tinner is just an easier alternative to adding solder to your iron yourself. I was thinking I would have to re-tin every time I clean the iron with a brass sponge, but I guess it's not necessary if the tip looks unoxidized and shiny, but it wouldn't hurt to re-tin it again even if it's already shiny?

I'm thinking you could re-tin after cleaning the iron twice from oxidation.

[Sifo]

When soldering do I need to add more solder to my iron if I applied a can of tip tinner, or does that not help? Will it make the iron worse?

Tip tinner is mostly for cleaning and protecting the iron, for a keyboard you can probably just get straight to soldering without adding more to the tip itself, just start feeding to the joint after heating it up a bit.

Thanks! I was thinking tip-tinner is just an easier alternative to adding solder to your iron yourself. I was thinking I would have to re-tin every time I clean the iron with a brass sponge, but I guess it's not necessary if the tip looks unoxidized and shiny, but it wouldn't hurt to re-tin it again even if it's already shiny?

I'm thinking you could re-tin after cleaning the iron twice from oxidation.

You can do it before and after the soldering session as well as periodically in between during soldering after cleaning.

[ShangWang]

You can do it before and after the soldering session as well as periodically in between during soldering after cleaning.

Sorry, to clarify I haven't used the solder iron yet. I re-read on tip tinner and it appears to be only used when absolutely needed. I think on a new iron I should just apply solder to tin it normally.

I think the procedure is to clean the tip, apply the tinner, and then clean the tip again to get rid of the residue. In most cases the tip should be shiny at that point even after cleaning, but I wanted to know if I'm not 100% sure is it ok to add more solder on the tip even after tinning if it doesn't appear shiny enough? What if it's already shiny and you apply more?

If it's possible to add too much solder on your tip, how do you remove the excess? Do you just use the brass sponge again, and if you do would you have to re-tin it again with solder?