Author Topic: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)  (Read 3448860 times)

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Offline Awoke

  • Posts: 2
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16900 on: Mon, 24 April 2023, 21:07:26 »
I'm looking for a full size keyboard, with aluminium or zinc (metal) frame, and Cherry MX Clear switches.

Any idea of one or where I could search for one?

Offline Miscfu

  • Posts: 2
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16901 on: Mon, 01 May 2023, 11:41:25 »
Hello! Doing my first keyboard build, was just wondering if there were any potential compatibility issues I may have overlooked.
I've ordered:
  • Portico68 Obsidian build kit from KeyCompany
  • Tangerine Light switches / stabs
  • SLK Dessau Dark Base Kit

Thank you!  ^-^

Offline user 18

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16902 on: Tue, 02 May 2023, 09:05:08 »
Hello! Doing my first keyboard build, was just wondering if there were any potential compatibility issues I may have overlooked.
I've ordered:
  • Portico68 Obsidian build kit from KeyCompany
  • Tangerine Light switches / stabs
  • SLK Dessau Dark Base Kit

Thank you!  ^-^

I am not familiar with this board or keyset, but have looked it up. As far as I can tell, everything looks compatible. The only odd keycaps you will need for this layout are a 1.75u right shift, and different-row home/end/pgup/pgdn. The keyset you mention includes the 1.75u shift, and because it doesn't seem to have different profiles per row, you don't run into any concerns with the home/end/pgup/pgdn like you would with, for example, Cherry profile caps.

The switches are PCB mount, and your PCB looks to have the additional holes drilled to be compatible with these. In the event that you get a PCB without these holes, or there is a size mismatch, you can turn PCB mount switches into plate mount switches by cutting off the plastic legs on the side, but it doesn't appear like that will be necessary in your case.

The stabilizers are also PCB mount, and includes the correct number and size of wires. You will need the shorter of the two spacebar stabilizer wires.

Good luck with your first build :)
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Offline Prince Valiant

  • Posts: 49
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16903 on: Mon, 08 May 2023, 10:42:41 »
Are there any clicky hall effect or optical switches which are MX compatible (mount and stem)?

Offline Simon11777

  • Posts: 1
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16904 on: Mon, 08 May 2023, 20:17:54 »
Hello, I need help finding a mechanical keyboard pad on AliExpress Keyboard 60% in iso

Offline Awoke

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16905 on: Tue, 09 May 2023, 12:26:24 »
I got my first MK. It's a lot more impressive than I was expecting. Now, I want to make it as quiet as possible. Any help of suggestions on where to start or the appropriate place to find information will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

Offline ander

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16906 on: Tue, 16 May 2023, 01:25:03 »
Should you wear brown shoes with a blue suit?
We are not chasing wildly after beauty with fear at our backs. – Natalie Goldberg

Offline ShangWang

  • Posts: 46
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16907 on: Wed, 24 May 2023, 12:07:58 »
I found this 4mm thick foam in my room that I could potentially use for dampening my HyperX Alloy Origins but I'm not sure what kind of material it is or if it's appropriate for the task. I just know that if the foam is not electrically conductive, it would work.
299295-0
299297-1
299299-2


https://imgur.com/a/YjFSftK

The foam is a bit hard, with some rigidity and has a somewhat smooth texture with little pores. Does anyone know what material this is? Would it be good for keyboard dampening?
« Last Edit: Wed, 24 May 2023, 12:10:07 by ShangWang »

Offline ShangWang

  • Posts: 46
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16908 on: Fri, 09 June 2023, 09:55:28 »
I plan on purchasing a soldering matt for resoldering a HyperX Alloy Origins which presumably has an aluminum plate on the exterior and the switches are plate mounted.

The silicone matt has these magnetic areas for placing your screws, but my keyboard is just big enough that it takes up the whole matt space and overlaps these magnetic areas.

If my PCB or any part of the keyboard touches these magnetic parts while soldering, can it cause any damage whatsoever, or is it completely safe?

If there was any damage, would the magnets have to be extremely strong for it to do anything?

Offline invariance

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16909 on: Thu, 29 June 2023, 08:43:28 »
I plan on purchasing a soldering matt for resoldering a HyperX Alloy Origins which presumably has an aluminum plate on the exterior and the switches are plate mounted.

The silicone matt has these magnetic areas for placing your screws, but my keyboard is just big enough that it takes up the whole matt space and overlaps these magnetic areas.

If my PCB or any part of the keyboard touches these magnetic parts while soldering, can it cause any damage whatsoever, or is it completely safe?

If there was any damage, would the magnets have to be extremely strong for it to do anything?
Nothing to worry about. Think of a generator where the fast motion of many wires in a loop through a magnetic field creates a voltage. Moving a circuit board over a magnet will not do anything.
If you drag your feet over polyester carpet and then touch the circuit board, that might be a different story  :))
Discharge yourself by touching someone‘a earlobe first.
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Offline ShangWang

  • Posts: 46
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16910 on: Thu, 29 June 2023, 10:49:39 »
I plan on purchasing a soldering matt for resoldering a HyperX Alloy Origins which presumably has an aluminum plate on the exterior and the switches are plate mounted.

The silicone matt has these magnetic areas for placing your screws, but my keyboard is just big enough that it takes up the whole matt space and overlaps these magnetic areas.

If my PCB or any part of the keyboard touches these magnetic parts while soldering, can it cause any damage whatsoever, or is it completely safe?

If there was any damage, would the magnets have to be extremely strong for it to do anything?
Nothing to worry about. Think of a generator where the fast motion of many wires in a loop through a magnetic field creates a voltage. Moving a circuit board over a magnet will not do anything.
If you drag your feet over polyester carpet and then touch the circuit board, that might be a different story  :))
Discharge yourself by touching someone‘a earlobe first.

Thanks! I don't think I'll always have a person to discharge myself, but I do have a metal ruler that is sitting on my wooden table. Hopefully that does a decent enough job!

Offline ShangWang

  • Posts: 46
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16911 on: Mon, 03 July 2023, 06:09:47 »
When soldering do I need to add more solder to my iron if I applied a can of tip tinner, or does that not help? Will it make the iron worse?

Offline Sifo

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16912 on: Mon, 03 July 2023, 10:58:13 »
When soldering do I need to add more solder to my iron if I applied a can of tip tinner, or does that not help? Will it make the iron worse?

Tip tinner is mostly for cleaning and protecting the iron, for a keyboard you can probably just get straight to soldering without adding more to the tip itself, just start feeding to the joint after heating it up a bit.
I love Elzy

Offline ShangWang

  • Posts: 46
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16913 on: Mon, 03 July 2023, 14:05:09 »
When soldering do I need to add more solder to my iron if I applied a can of tip tinner, or does that not help? Will it make the iron worse?

Tip tinner is mostly for cleaning and protecting the iron, for a keyboard you can probably just get straight to soldering without adding more to the tip itself, just start feeding to the joint after heating it up a bit.

Thanks! I was thinking tip-tinner is just an easier alternative to adding solder to your iron yourself. I was thinking I would have to re-tin every time I clean the iron with a brass sponge, but I guess it's not necessary if the tip looks unoxidized and shiny, but it wouldn't hurt to re-tin it again even if it's already shiny?

I'm thinking you could re-tin after cleaning the iron twice from oxidation.

Offline Sifo

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16914 on: Mon, 03 July 2023, 15:30:46 »
When soldering do I need to add more solder to my iron if I applied a can of tip tinner, or does that not help? Will it make the iron worse?

Tip tinner is mostly for cleaning and protecting the iron, for a keyboard you can probably just get straight to soldering without adding more to the tip itself, just start feeding to the joint after heating it up a bit.

Thanks! I was thinking tip-tinner is just an easier alternative to adding solder to your iron yourself. I was thinking I would have to re-tin every time I clean the iron with a brass sponge, but I guess it's not necessary if the tip looks unoxidized and shiny, but it wouldn't hurt to re-tin it again even if it's already shiny?

I'm thinking you could re-tin after cleaning the iron twice from oxidation.

You can do it before and after the soldering session as well as periodically in between during soldering after cleaning.
I love Elzy

Offline ShangWang

  • Posts: 46
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16915 on: Mon, 03 July 2023, 16:11:31 »
You can do it before and after the soldering session as well as periodically in between during soldering after cleaning.
Sorry, to clarify I haven't used the solder iron yet. I re-read on tip tinner and it appears to be only used when absolutely needed. I think on a new iron I should just apply solder to tin it normally.

I think the procedure is to clean the tip, apply the tinner, and then clean the tip again to get rid of the residue. In most cases the tip should be shiny at that point even after cleaning, but I wanted to know if I'm not 100% sure is it ok to add more solder on the tip even after tinning if it doesn't appear shiny enough? What if it's already shiny and you apply more?

If it's possible to add too much solder on your tip, how do you remove the excess? Do you just use the brass sponge again, and if you do would you have to re-tin it again with solder?

Offline zot3

  • Posts: 1
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16916 on: Tue, 24 October 2023, 17:15:43 »
Hello,

Is it possible to make a macropad (like the DOIO ones) to output MIDI instead?

Thanks

Offline Mr. Perfect

  • Posts: 380
  • Location: United States
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16917 on: Fri, 27 October 2023, 16:19:13 »
Hey all,

What's the favorite active PS/2 to USB converter these days? All the ones I'm familiar with seem to be out of production. Thanks!
Mr. Perfect - A name fraught with peril.

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Offline ClaireAbitbol

  • Posts: 13
  • Location: BE
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16918 on: Sat, 11 November 2023, 05:21:57 »
Why do people just leave their coiled cable retracted on their desk and have a long normal cable connecting to the PC, to me the point of a coiled cable was that you're able to extend it so why just leave it sitting there like a less space efficient regular cable? I'm assuming a big part of it is just aesthetics.

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16919 on: Sat, 11 November 2023, 07:41:48 »

just aesthetics.


I despise coiled cables and think that they are clumsy and ugly.
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Mr. Putin’s filibuster-style appearance with Tucker Carlson on Elon Musk’s social media platform amid the security aid debate on Capitol Hill driven by Donald J Trump offers a moment to reflect on the head-spinning transformation of American politics in recent years. A Republican Party that once defined itself through muscular resistance to Russia has turned increasingly toward a form of neo-isolationism with strains of sympathy for Moscow.
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Offline Exquite

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16920 on: Wed, 15 November 2023, 20:35:05 »
How can I upload my pictures to the profile pictures section? I have tried uploading jpeg, png, and heic.
I'm a Color lover and a designer.

Offline Buckling_Summer

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16921 on: Tue, 21 November 2023, 05:23:45 »
Hey all,

What's the favorite active PS/2 to USB converter these days? All the ones I'm familiar with seem to be out of production. Thanks!

I have been using this:
ps/2 to USB adapter converter for keyboards + short USB cable
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Offline mohawk1367

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16922 on: Mon, 27 November 2023, 07:23:37 »
Why do people just leave their coiled cable retracted on their desk and have a long normal cable connecting to the PC, to me the point of a coiled cable was that you're able to extend it so why just leave it sitting there like a less space efficient regular cable? I'm assuming a big part of it is just aesthetics.

the coiled cables people use these days arent meant to be extended they are just coiled for aesthetics

its weird
someone needs to make an aussie keyboard community called QMƎɹ┴⅄. get it? haha :D

Offline Melvang

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16923 on: Wed, 29 November 2023, 05:35:18 »
Aside from mechanical keyboards .com (out stock for a while now), any suggestions where I can find some Cherry PCB mount NOT screw in (Ergo Dox doesn't support screw in to my knowledge unless I am mistaken) stabilizers?  I only need 4 2U stabs.

Also, any suggestions for a single sides keypad for gaming aside from custom built Ergo Dox.
OG Kishsaver, Razer Orbweaver clears and reds with blue LEDs, and Razer Naga Epic.   "Great minds crawl in the same sewer"  Uncle Rich

Offline Rhienfo

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16924 on: Thu, 30 November 2023, 07:55:22 »
Aside from mechanical keyboards .com (out stock for a while now), any suggestions where I can find some Cherry PCB mount NOT screw in (Ergo Dox doesn't support screw in to my knowledge unless I am mistaken) stabilizers?  I only need 4 2U stabs.

Also, any suggestions for a single sides keypad for gaming aside from custom built Ergo Dox.

If you are talking about clip ins, than cannonkeys sells them.

https://cannonkeys.com/products/cherry-stabilizers?variant=32257338998895


Offline ShangWang

  • Posts: 46
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16925 on: Sat, 02 December 2023, 15:23:44 »
I have this RK ROYAL KLUDGE RK84 keyboard where I lubed the stabilizer wires with dielectric grease and the housing with G-lube. I made sure to put a thin layer for the housing a relatively thick coating on the wires. I also put a band-aid under the stabilizers and applied a bit of dielectric grease on them.

The keyboard comes with EVA foam already but I put one layer of painters tape on the PCB for more sound dampening.

It seemed like a tight fit when screwing the PCB back on the plate, but there were no issues with the stabilizers until I repeatedly pressed down on my spacebar and eventually it started rattling. It's more of a wriggle sensation/sound when pressing down on the keys, but it seems like it's permanently like this despite

Is this normal for these stabilizers, or is it because of the tape mod somehow?

Offline Melvang

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16926 on: Thu, 21 December 2023, 06:46:43 »
Would anyone have or know where I could get CAD files for Ergo Dox PCBs so I can start designing a case for my kiddo?
OG Kishsaver, Razer Orbweaver clears and reds with blue LEDs, and Razer Naga Epic.   "Great minds crawl in the same sewer"  Uncle Rich

Offline Rhienfo

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16927 on: Thu, 21 December 2023, 07:05:52 »
Would anyone have or know where I could get CAD files for Ergo Dox PCBs so I can start designing a case for my kiddo?

This should have the files for the ergodox pcb

https://github.com/Ergodox-io/ErgoDox

the ergodox website should also have it (or at least a way to find it) just in case the github doesn't - https://www.ergodox.io/

Hope this helps and the project turns out well, always love seeing stuff like this.



Offline Rhienfo

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16928 on: Thu, 21 December 2023, 07:18:43 »
I have this RK ROYAL KLUDGE RK84 keyboard where I lubed the stabilizer wires with dielectric grease and the housing with G-lube. I made sure to put a thin layer for the housing a relatively thick coating on the wires. I also put a band-aid under the stabilizers and applied a bit of dielectric grease on them.

The keyboard comes with EVA foam already but I put one layer of painters tape on the PCB for more sound dampening.

It seemed like a tight fit when screwing the PCB back on the plate, but there were no issues with the stabilizers until I repeatedly pressed down on my spacebar and eventually it started rattling. It's more of a wriggle sensation/sound when pressing down on the keys, but it seems like it's permanently like this despite

Is this normal for these stabilizers, or is it because of the tape mod somehow?

If lube isn't the issue than maybe the wires are unbalanced. This seems helpful with fixing that - https://www.keebtalk.com/t/how-do-you-straighten-your-stabilizer-wires/13012

If there is still persistent rattle another thing that I have seen is that it is a spacebar issue and you need to put a little bit of thin cling wrap loosely where the ticking is happening (this is if you are talking about a ticking noise that occurs instead of rattle, only do this if you have tried everything and there is still ticking, and don't cram it in there as there is a risk that the spacebar stem may crack)

If literally nothing works than replacing the stabilizer would be an option, and also isn't too expensive.

Offline ShangWang

  • Posts: 46
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16929 on: Thu, 21 December 2023, 07:54:42 »
I have this RK ROYAL KLUDGE RK84 keyboard where I lubed the stabilizer wires with dielectric grease and the housing with G-lube. I made sure to put a thin layer for the housing a relatively thick coating on the wires. I also put a band-aid under the stabilizers and applied a bit of dielectric grease on them.

The keyboard comes with EVA foam already but I put one layer of painters tape on the PCB for more sound dampening.

It seemed like a tight fit when screwing the PCB back on the plate, but there were no issues with the stabilizers until I repeatedly pressed down on my spacebar and eventually it started rattling. It's more of a wriggle sensation/sound when pressing down on the keys, but it seems like it's permanently like this despite

Is this normal for these stabilizers, or is it because of the tape mod somehow?

If lube isn't the issue than maybe the wires are unbalanced. This seems helpful with fixing that - https://www.keebtalk.com/t/how-do-you-straighten-your-stabilizer-wires/13012

If there is still persistent rattle another thing that I have seen is that it is a spacebar issue and you need to put a little bit of thin cling wrap loosely where the ticking is happening (this is if you are talking about a ticking noise that occurs instead of rattle, only do this if you have tried everything and there is still ticking, and don't cram it in there as there is a risk that the spacebar stem may crack)

If literally nothing works than replacing the stabilizer would be an option, and also isn't too expensive.

Thanks! I got the same set of stabilizers and it seemed to still persist, I think it's just how the stabilizers are so I'll just replace it with a different kind in the future.

Offline transeurasian

  • Posts: 24
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16930 on: Sat, 23 December 2023, 04:33:07 »
Is there a wiki or list somewhere of new & notable keyboard releases?

Offline Rhienfo

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16931 on: Sat, 23 December 2023, 05:30:32 »
Is there a wiki or list somewhere of new & notable keyboard releases?

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/185irtVlavKB7a21TwWsaU6iZVvfeVqY3XrIn87obPpQ/edit

I mainly look at this spreadsheet when it comes to anything notable. It also has a review of every product by a big community member that you can look at, but even if you don't care about that/agree with him, it's still useful with seeing everything.

Offline killazys

  • Posts: 17
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16932 on: Fri, 19 January 2024, 09:18:01 »
Looking to replace my dying Archiss MX Brown keyboard for my desktop. I tried the REALFORCE R2 silent 45g switches and they were way too stiff/actuation bump felt really fatiguing, even though technically they are less weight than the browns. I have the Ducky One SF with Kailh Box Browns for travelling which I like, maybe if they were just a big lighter and lubed.

I tried the Niz 35g switches at the store and I found them to be too close to a linear switch for me, also the key travel distance felt a bit short.

So I'm looking for something in between the Kailh Box Browns and Niz 35g, preferably silent and smooth/pre-lubed but not sure what... maybe Niz 45g like this one? Thanks for any tips.

I live in Japan btw so something I can easily buy here would be preferred.

Offline Rhienfo

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16933 on: Fri, 19 January 2024, 16:09:46 »
Looking to replace my dying Archiss MX Brown keyboard for my desktop. I tried the REALFORCE R2 silent 45g switches and they were way too stiff/actuation bump felt really fatiguing, even though technically they are less weight than the browns. I have the Ducky One SF with Kailh Box Browns for travelling which I like, maybe if they were just a big lighter and lubed.

I tried the Niz 35g switches at the store and I found them to be too close to a linear switch for me, also the key travel distance felt a bit short.

So I'm looking for something in between the Kailh Box Browns and Niz 35g, preferably silent and smooth/pre-lubed but not sure what... maybe Niz 45g like this one? Thanks for any tips.

I live in Japan btw so something I can easily buy here would be preferred.

Any of the haimu silent tactiles are a reccomendation for me in terms of mx silents, however the spring weighting may not be right for you, so I would reccomend spring swapping with aftermarket springs like tx springs, I think 55-57g medium springs would be right for you. You would just need a switch opener since they are factory lubed.

I did see 40g kalih box springs out there, which are slightly lighter than the box browns from what I'm aware, but no one is selling them so I think they stopped production, but if you ever find them you can replace them with the box browns stock springs.

Also weighting in topre is different to mx since it's not the spring that causes the resistance, the tactile domes are the things that cause resistance, if you want to go the topre route then you would have to find aftermarket domes that are lighter than 45g but heavier than 35g, I'm not a topre person so I can't really help you out there. But hope the other info helps you.



Offline mohawk1367

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16934 on: Fri, 26 January 2024, 10:03:51 »
Looking to replace my dying Archiss MX Brown keyboard for my desktop. I tried the REALFORCE R2 silent 45g switches and they were way too stiff/actuation bump felt really fatiguing, even though technically they are less weight than the browns. I have the Ducky One SF with Kailh Box Browns for travelling which I like, maybe if they were just a big lighter and lubed.

I tried the Niz 35g switches at the store and I found them to be too close to a linear switch for me, also the key travel distance felt a bit short.

So I'm looking for something in between the Kailh Box Browns and Niz 35g, preferably silent and smooth/pre-lubed but not sure what... maybe Niz 45g like this one? Thanks for any tips.

I live in Japan btw so something I can easily buy here would be preferred.

Any of the haimu silent tactiles are a reccomendation for me in terms of mx silents, however the spring weighting may not be right for you, so I would reccomend spring swapping with aftermarket springs like tx springs, I think 55-57g medium springs would be right for you. You would just need a switch opener since they are factory lubed.

I did see 40g kalih box springs out there, which are slightly lighter than the box browns from what I'm aware, but no one is selling them so I think they stopped production, but if you ever find them you can replace them with the box browns stock springs.

Also weighting in topre is different to mx since it's not the spring that causes the resistance, the tactile domes are the things that cause resistance, if you want to go the topre route then you would have to find aftermarket domes that are lighter than 45g but heavier than 35g, I'm not a topre person so I can't really help you out there. But hope the other info helps you.

ngl when i tried 45g topre for the first time it still felt unspeakably light compared to 45g mx style linears
someone needs to make an aussie keyboard community called QMƎɹ┴⅄. get it? haha :D

Offline Nerif

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16935 on: Sat, 03 February 2024, 13:55:54 »
Can someone explain to me why Clickjacket-based switches lose their click after years of usage?
̷C̷M̷ ̷Q̷F̷ ̷X̷T̷ ̷[̷C̷h̷e̷r̷r̷y̷ ̷M̷X̷ ̷B̷l̷u̷e̷ ̷→̷ ̷C̷h̷e̷r̷r̷y̷ ̷M̷X̷ ̷B̷l̷a̷c̷k̷ ̷H̷y̷p̷e̷r̷g̷l̷i̷d̷e̷]̷
Anne Pro 2 [Gateron CAP Brown → Kailh BOX Dark Yellow]

Offline Rhienfo

  • Posts: 563
  • Location: Melbourne, Australia
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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16936 on: Sat, 03 February 2024, 17:34:30 »
Can someone explain to me why Clickjacket-based switches lose their click after years of usage?

There might be a few reasons

1. The switches are really dirty, which would block the click mechanism and the switches need to be cleaned.

2. If the switches have been lubed, any of it near the click jacket will remove the click as well, this can happen even if you didn't lube near it initially because the lube with spread around in the switch. You can clean it but it requires a ultrasound cleaner.

3. The switch has wear and tear from years of usage and either the jacket part of the leaf has been damaged (probably not the reason)

Hope this helps.

Offline fuzzybyte

  • Posts: 54
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16937 on: Sat, 24 February 2024, 01:10:24 »
Where could I buy a single-piece keyboard with a layout like this?

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« Last Edit: Sat, 24 February 2024, 21:49:18 by fuzzybyte »

Offline Rhienfo

  • Posts: 563
  • Location: Melbourne, Australia
  • Why is everything I want here so expensive :(
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16938 on: Sun, 25 February 2024, 23:29:27 »
Where could I buy a single-piece keyboard with a layout like this?

(Attachment Link)

I don't think there is a keyboard with this layout, I think your best bet would be to handwire the board in that layout, and use acryllic stacks for the case for example.