Hi all.
I received my Poker II today from qtan, so I felt I should do a mini overview. I've seen a few unboxings, but I noticed none have even unscrewed the plate/pcb from the case. Where's the fun in something if you're not going to attempt to take it apart? Anyhoo ... here we go.
The box is simple. No real details aside from Poker II, a Club icon, which you can somewhat see on the bottom right corner of the picture, which was brown (probably to indicate Cherry MX Brown Swtiches), and sticker with the website
www.likeyboard.com on the bottom of the box.
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The contents which include blank RGB modifiers, a keycap puller, and a USB to mini USB cable (not pictured).
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View of the thick PBT keycaps.
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I think I saw somewhere that WFD was looking for a shot of the PCB. If you haven't received your Poker from qtan yet WFD, this is for you.
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A close up of the PCB near the dipswitch.
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Some images of the plate.
First ImpressionsI ordered a board with MX browns from qtan. Since I recently acquired a Pure Limited w/ MX blues, I thought browns would be a decent option. Each board I've tried with browns, I've always felt that they were itchy reds. My cousin came by to check out the Poker II and I told him to bring his Ducky YotD with browns. The browns that were on the YotD were much smoother. I know both the Poker II and Ducky are plate mount, so they should similiar ... right? The browns that are on the Poker felt really mushy (not because of the Cherry stabs); like doing a lube job with globs of lithium grease where you don't wipe the excess and you just reassemble the switch. The amount of force to actuate each key reminded me of stock clears. So at the moment, I'm a bit baffled. Perhaps over time, they'll "loosen" up. The function layer of the Poker II isn't all that difficult to learn. After playing with my Pure, working the Poker II isn't that bad.
Case SwappingSince I took apart the Poker, I thought perhaps I should swap it into the aluminum case that came with the Pure. The holes on the PCB line up exactly with the Pure case, even down to the screw hole in between the G and H keys. The plate for the Poker II is the same size as the PCB. As nice as it is to see things flush, it becomes a problem for the Pure case. Since the Poker II uses plate mount Cherry stabs, the stabs for the ends of the spacebar stick out a few milimeters (You can see them in the first picture of the PCB). That prevents the plate/PCB from sliding into the case properly. Since the plate/PCB are already a tight fit, there would be no way to force it into the case withouth damaging the PCB. I've thought about sanding down or clipping a bit of the stabilizer ends to see if I can get it to slide in easier. I've also thought about sanding down areas of the Pure case to allow some room because it looks like the plate is an exact fit for the inside dimensions of the case with no space to shift anything. In the end, I left it alone. Later on though ... I will make it fit somehow!
Other ThoughtsTo sate my 60% desires, I decided to check out the Pure and the new Poker II. While the Poker II isn't a GH60, it works for now. I can take it to work instead of my board with panda clears. I have mixed feelings regarding the MX browns that come with the Poker II. I enjoy my panda clears; I can even say I like stock clears. I enjoy slightly heavier switches. So while my mind keeps thinking itchy-reds ... which are light ... typing on these browns contradicts what I "should" be feeling. I've gone back and forth with my cousin's Ducky and I'm still baffled. The browns on the Ducky have that distinct sound when bottoming out. The browns on the Poker sound muffled.
Hopefully when others received their Poker II with browns, they can add whether or not they're experiencing the same thing I am.
A shot of the Poker II with GMK orange on charcoal. Hack Orange CC. (I know ... jil_jil did a picture something similar)