Got me a Model F XT

[N8N]

I swore I wouldn't buy another old keyboard, but a Model F was up on "a certain auction site" for a price I couldn't resist.

I know Soarer had a Teensy-based converter in the works last time I checked, also looking at clickykeyboards they recommend this:

http://www.hagstromelectronics.com/products/ke_xtusb.html

Does anyone sell Soarer's converter pre-made?  Which is better?  Anything else I should be looking at?

I do want to see if I like this more than my old M's but due to the non-standard layout I think that this one might be a curiosity...

thanks!

(yeah, I know, it's been ages since I've been on here... what can I say?  I've been happy with my keyboards and haven't been tempted to try any new ones... until now.)

[fohat.digs]

I used a Hagstrom several years ago with an F-XT and it was a good unit.

The Teensy is half the price and much more versatile, but if you must have plug & play, Hagstrom is probably your best bet.

[wcass]

Soarer's converter is very well respected. i have used it in several of my mod'ed keyboards and it works perfectly. you will need a Teensy ($16).

some folks (like me) mount the Teensy in the keyboard case, others prefer a breakout box. either way, you just solder 4 wires to the Teensy and program; that's about it.

another thing - you can re-assign any key to do anything you like. i make the caps-lock key a "Fn" key - Fn+Shift = caps lock; Fn+1 = F1, Fn+2 = F2, etc. that way i get F11 and F12 (Fn+-, Fn+=). the 10 keys on the left get to be Gui, Menu, and multimedia.

[berserkfan]

Hey Wcass

Can you give me a few pointers about making additional function keys on your F XT? I also have one and so far have only done basic key remaps on it.

I have found mapping a key to windows (LGUI aka left windows key) isn't enough. Since this is a 83 key  (and I have less than 81 keys due to hammer problems), I need ways to toggle multiple layers of functions in order to make it work better.

EG would be nice to be able to trigger a whole world of hotkeys if scrolllock is depressed, then make all the hotkeys vanish when scrolllock is pressed again.

If you can point me to resources that noobs can understand about programming the soarer, I would be grateful indeed! Assume this noob has zero experience with C++ and graduated in the liberal arts (which I did.)

Soarer has been very kind and generous, but his threads are a little above my level now. I want to save asking Soarer only for the tougher questions. I have a toddler nephew who is always asking questions typical of a 3 year old, and I probably sound like a 3 year old to Soarer.  ) ) )

Soarer's converter is very well respected. i have used it in several of my mod'ed keyboards and it works perfectly. you will need a Teensy ($16).

some folks (like me) mount the Teensy in the keyboard case, others prefer a breakout box. either way, you just solder 4 wires to the Teensy and program; that's about it.

another thing - you can re-assign any key to do anything you like. i make the caps-lock key a "Fn" key - Fn+Shift = caps lock; Fn+1 = F1, Fn+2 = F2, etc. that way i get F11 and F12 (Fn+-, Fn+=). the 10 keys on the left get to be Gui, Menu, and multimedia.

[N8N]

I could probably physically build the Teensy converter, but I'm just completely incompetent when it comes to electronics and programming.  I mean, I managed to change all the switches on a Filco without horking it up, and I can and have take an old car and convert it over to 12V so everything works properly, including all the electrical gauges (well, I lied a little bit... the old tube radio doesn't work) but this kind of stuff makes me all skeptical and such like.

Part of me says "what could possibly go wrong?" and another part of me says that if I buy all this stuff that I'll never make it work and the F will sit in a corner until I have to move and then it'll get donated to Goodwill which is a horrible fate for such a board.

So tell me - if I really did swap all the switches on a Filco and end up with a daily driver board that I used for over a year at work with no issues whatsoever (and still works fine at home today, I ended up taking a Granite to work to replace it) can I build this converter and program it successfully without having it turn into a debacle?

[fohat.digs]

can I build this converter and program it successfully without having it turn into a debacle?

You changed out switches? This is nothing.

Four (count 'em 4) wires to connect!

You would not even have to solder them if you didn't want to!

[wcass]

OK, that gives me some ideas for a Wiki - How to use Soarers to convert an IBM model F to USB.

it should cover XT, AT, and 122 and have pictures of every step to add the hardware and some sample layout maps/config files with some explanation on how to modify the files to make changes. I don't have an AT at the moment, but i think that The_Beast has one.

i'll need a weekend to put it together and you guys can help. do you have a Teensy yet? i'll go over both internal and external Teensy, but which are you more interested in? I'll post current key layouts and ask you to select new layouts and layers. i think that the layout below is the "standard" XT layout - please correct me if i got anything wrong. as you select new values for the keys, keep in mind that the text on the key cap will not change. one-unit keys are the same as Model M one-unit keys, but i think all of the other sizes have stems in different locations.

N8N, do you mind if we use this thread to discuss what should be included in the Wiki article or should we start a new thread?

[N8N]

absolutely not!  That's one of my skills, asking the dumb questions that prompt people to do cool stuff.  (seriously, you should see me when I'm at my friend's shop, mechanics love bouncing stuff off me.  They know way more than I do, but I have a knack for asking the questions that lead them to the answers.)

Edit: you all have me thinking about trying to DIY, I see there's a Teensy 3 out, is there any advantage to using that over a 2 or 2++?  (or would it be completely incompatible as the code would have to be rewritten?)

[wcass]

.... you all have me thinking about trying to DIY, I see there's a Teensy 3 out, is there any advantage to using that over a 2 or 2++?  (or would it be completely incompatible as the code would have to be rewritten?)

teensy 3 is incompatible. the 2++ has more pins (not used) and more memory (not needed unless you go crazy with layers). Teensy 2 is Goldilocks.

[fohat.digs]

absolutely not!  That's one of my skills, asking the dumb questions that prompt people to do cool stuff.  (seriously, you should see me when I'm at my friend's shop, mechanics love bouncing stuff off me.  They know way more than I do, but I have a knack for asking the questions that lead them to the answers.)

Edit: you all have me thinking about trying to DIY, I see there's a Teensy 3 out, is there any advantage to using that over a 2 or 2++?  (or would it be completely incompatible as the code would have to be rewritten?)

Soarer knows the answer in detail, but I think I remember that the 2.0 is still the one to use.

I am planning to rehab my guide completely, when a new protocol for guides is established, but I did not get into the Teensy part of it.

[wcass]

custom key layouts can be very easy. the code is divided up into code "blocks" that have specific trigger.  the most basic of these is the "default layer" remap block. all block starts with a declaration of what that block is for and end with "endblock". the section below is an example that remaps F9 and F10 to "menu" and "Win" - and - it says that when i hold down the Caps Lock key it will activate a function to be defined later (i will have it switch layers). if i had more keys (on the default layer) that i wanted to change around (or add more layer select keys), i would identify them in this section.

Code: [Select]

remapblock
    F9        APP
    F10        LGUI
    CAPS_LOCK        FN1
endblock

now i need to define my function key. i start by declaring a layer block, associate the key with the layer, and then end the block. if i had more layers than just default and layer1 then i would add them here.

after that i start another remap block, but add a line identifying the layer it is associated with. in this example, i turn the top row in F1 thru F12.

Code: [Select]

layerblock
    FN1 1
endblock

remapblock
layer 1
    1    F1
    2    F2
    3    F3
    4    F4
    5    F5
    6    F6
    7    F7
    8    F8
    9    F9
    0    F10
    MINUS    F11
    EQUAL    F12
endblock


[N8N]

Well the thing finally showed up today... holy heck it is solid.  And heavy.  And really, really nice feeling.  But the PING!  DEAR GOD THE PING!  everyone who's ever whined about the sound of a Filco should be forced to use one of these for a while.  It's not really so much of a ping as a constant whining ringing about a high D.  I can't imagine working in an office where everyone had one of these... this is definitely an "all by myself" activity.

And no, I don't know if it works.  It literally just showed up and I never bought a convertor, waiting for my PayPal account to fill up a little.

[1391406]

I'm getting in on this thread late, but as far as converters, I can vouch for the Hagstrom. It works with the XT flawlessly, although as others have pointed out, Soarer's converter is cheaper and infinitely more robust.