My understanding is the phantom was built to be filco compatible. So if his case is filco compatible, by extension the phantom should work fine.
False logic.
Example:
If it rains, the street is wet.
But was there neccessarily rain, if the street is wet? 
Yes, the Phantom was designed to fit into a Filco. But, for example, Vortex' alu case doesn't fit (without mods) the Phantom. It has no stand offs, the case relies on the Filco plate.
Allow me to introduce you to Abductive logic.
See, the above is a great example of faulty deductive or inductive reasoning, but a potentially correct abductive logical process.
For example:
I know that when it rains at night, the grass is wet in the morning (for the purposes of this example, we will assume such knowledge was arrived at by deduction and is therefore infallible).
So, I get up in the morning and the grass is wet. I can abduce that it has rained at night.
Like inductive reasoning (science is big on this) it can be false, but new information is gained.
Of course the "best" logical process is deduction, where it can't be wrong, but no new information is gained.
Such is the problem with Logic and Epistemology.
now: more on topic
Assuming you get a case, pcb, switches, LED's (optional) and a plate (optional), you need to solder them in. You also need caps to put on the switches.
I have experience soldering, I have a Raspberry Pi to play with from time to time. So, that shouldn't be a problem. I guess what's really worrying me is that I don't know what is compatible with what, like if I do my own combination of parts.
It's hard to know for sure, but there are a few things I can say.
#1 cherry switches use T1 size LEDs. 2*3*4 will also fit. The LEDs available in this GB will fit in any MX switch.
#3 If you know how to solder, you should be able to put this together. Soldering through hole switches and LEDs is all you need.
#4 Plate is optional, but if you go without a plate, PCB mount switches are a must. While not strictly necessary, a LED will help stabilize the switch if you go without a plate and is recommended even if you don't plan to use backlighting.
#5 The NKRO diodes and LED resistors are surface mount and already soldered.
#6 The controller is also soldered and should be updated with firmware to get you started quickly.
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Now, if you want to use your own parts
#1: Any T1 LED will fit, and the PCB should be able to drive diodes with Vfs as low as 1.6V, which covers all common LEDs and colours. 1.5Vf should probably work too.
#2: The PCB should fit in other cases, though which ones it's hard to say. If you post a picture I can probably size up the mounting holes and check.
#3: Depending on which PCB, it should support switches in many layouts, and also be compatible with your own plate. I will probably be using a rosewill plate I have for the 100%
#4: All cherry MX switches should fit. Get PCB mount if you are not using a plate.
Did I leave anything out? please ask specifics.
Did I get anything wrong? I hope not, but please PM me or post if I did and I'll correct / update it.
