Help - CM QFR

[joelk2]

Hello Chaps,

wondering if you could help me / give me some ideas on what could be happening.

i have a CM QFR which stopped working. when i plug it into the computer the lights (caps lock etc) flash on and then go off. the keboard doesnt work.

ive opened it up to see if i can see anything obvious but nothing is jumping out at me.

anyone have any ideas on what it could be?

[rowdy]

Could be the case too tight - apparently this is a problem with some.  Either try using it (carefully) with the case off, or loosen the screws and see if that helps.

[joelk2]

Could be the case too tight - apparently this is a problem with some.  Either try using it (carefully) with the case off, or loosen the screws and see if that helps.

thanks

ive tried using it with the case fully unscrewed and it does the same. 

[rowdy]

Loose cable?

Broken cable (try a different one)?

Tried a different USB port?

Tried this keyboard on a different computer?

Tried a different keyboard in this USB port on this computer?

[joelk2]

Loose cable?

Broken cable (try a different one)?

Tried a different USB port?

Tried this keyboard on a different computer?

Tried a different keyboard in this USB port on this computer?

tried all of the above.

tried with the usb/ps2 thing too.

[tuxsavvy]

It sounds like controller onboard the keyboard is probably dying/acting up. Although I am only guessing at this point. If say you have tried plugging other keyboards on the same machine that you are having issues with the keyboard and they work and/or you tried the same keyboard with another machine and it still is the same issue then it has to do with the keyboard itself I guess.

Is your keyboard still under warranty? if so you might want to try contacting your manufacturer to see what they think the case might be.

[joelk2]

It sounds like controller onboard the keyboard is probably dying/acting up. Although I am only guessing at this point. If say you have tried plugging other keyboards on the same machine that you are having issues with the keyboard and they work and/or you tried the same keyboard with another machine and it still is the same issue then it has to do with the keyboard itself I guess.

Is your keyboard still under warranty? if so you might want to try contacting your manufacturer to see what they think the case might be.

yeah its deffo the keyboard itself, just wondering if anyone had a similar issue.

CM have been great and are sending me a replacement (dont have to send the original back) but i was hoping i could fix it to have as a spare.

[tuxsavvy]

It sounds like controller onboard the keyboard is probably dying/acting up. Although I am only guessing at this point. If say you have tried plugging other keyboards on the same machine that you are having issues with the keyboard and they work and/or you tried the same keyboard with another machine and it still is the same issue then it has to do with the keyboard itself I guess.

Is your keyboard still under warranty? if so you might want to try contacting your manufacturer to see what they think the case might be.

yeah its deffo the keyboard itself, just wondering if anyone had a similar issue.

CM have been great and are sending me a replacement (dont have to send the original back) but i was hoping i could fix it to have as a spare.

I suppose you could try replacing the keyboard controller for starters (if you happen to have a spare one). Then maybe work your way down from there. I am still willing to be on the controller PCB some component has failed and is now acting up badly.

I don't have that keyboard so I wouldn't know I'm afraid.

[kolonelkadat]

could be the crystal. for the cost and easy acquisition, that where I would start.even if you cant get one at the store, you can surely get one from any sub $5 cheapo thumbdrive.

If the crystal goes, the controller probably wont function properly, and it certainly wont be able to shake hands with the usb host.

[Tony]

Cable failure for sure.

[Candyflip]

Cable failure for sure.

How are you so sure? He said he tried using another cable.

[joelk2]

could be the crystal. for the cost and easy acquisition, that where I would start.even if you cant get one at the store, you can surely get one from any sub $5 cheapo thumbdrive.

If the crystal goes, the controller probably wont function properly, and it certainly wont be able to shake hands with the usb host.

thanks, what is the crystal?

[joelk2]

Cable failure for sure.

ive tried 3 different cables on 2 different computers and it doesnt work.

i did read about the cables failing though.

[kolonelkadat]

thanks, what is the crystal?

its the rectangular metal can. here is a picture with all the shapes it could be. http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/5/5d/Crystal_Packages.jpg/514px-Crystal_Packages.jpg

it will have a number stamped on top of it, probably either 12 (12.000) or 16 (16.000).

Replacements can be had from mouser, sparkfun, digikey, element14 for under a buck.

I Really dont recommend trying to harvest one from other usb whatevers, just because its a pain to do and you never really know what youre going to get until you pop it open. You can do it though, if you feel the need. most thumbdrives will get you a 12mhz, youll need to look elsewhere for a 16mhz, maybe a cheap usb mouse?

[MonoSky]

I personally had a lot of issues with my QFR as well. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. Below is a list of the things that I tried to make my QFR work again.

The 4-Pin Molex is on the wrong way when you reassembled the keyboard
Wiggling the MicroUSB Cable head
Unplug the keyboard -> Restart computer -> Plug keyboard in(Don't touch any keys) -> Don't touch any keys for 5 second -> Try pressing Caps lock to see if LED lights up

Some things that says your keyboard is dead:
When you plug in the keyboard the LED doesn't flicker for a moment
You LED Lights up and doesn't shutoff

Now some of these probably won't apply to you but they are there for people who have a similar issue.

[mooswa]

You could check if controller is the issue by replacing it with the one from a working keyboard.  If it is indeed a faulty controller, I recommend getting a replacement one from bpiphany.  The cheapest way to get a programmable board AFAIK.

http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=46700.msg1083984#msg1083984

[rowdy]

Maybe check the connector on the PCB in the keyboard where the cable plugs in.  Removable cables in general sometimes cause the plug to work loose (not just CM keyboards).

[joelk2]

thanks, what is the crystal?

its the rectangular metal can. here is a picture with all the shapes it could be. http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/5/5d/Crystal_Packages.jpg/514px-Crystal_Packages.jpg

it will have a number stamped on top of it, probably either 12 (12.000) or 16 (16.000).

Replacements can be had from mouser, sparkfun, digikey, element14 for under a buck.

I Really dont recommend trying to harvest one from other usb whatevers, just because its a pain to do and you never really know what youre going to get until you pop it open. You can do it though, if you feel the need. most thumbdrives will get you a 12mhz, youll need to look elsewhere for a 16mhz, maybe a cheap usb mouse?

ive looked and unless those things are the size of a pinhead i cant seem to find them 

edit: it looks like the crystal is on the controller board so ill try hunt one down here in the UK.

Maybe check the connector on the PCB in the keyboard where the cable plugs in.  Removable cables in general sometimes cause the plug to work loose (not just CM keyboards).

ive unplugged and plugged it in so many times. if i turn the intenal cable around on the one end (so its wired wrong) the computer see's that there is something there (unknown device or something like that) but i cant install any drivers etc for it.

I personally had a lot of issues with my QFR as well. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. Below is a list of the things that I tried to make my QFR work again.

The 4-Pin Molex is on the wrong way when you reassembled the keyboard
Wiggling the MicroUSB Cable head
Unplug the keyboard -> Restart computer -> Plug keyboard in(Don't touch any keys) -> Don't touch any keys for 5 second -> Try pressing Caps lock to see if LED lights up

Some things that says your keyboard is dead:
When you plug in the keyboard the LED doesn't flicker for a moment
You LED Lights up and doesn't shutoff

Now some of these probably won't apply to you but they are there for people who have a similar issue.

thanks, tried all of those. nothing works.

You could check if controller is the issue by replacing it with the one from a working keyboard.  If it is indeed a faulty controller, I recommend getting a replacement one from bpiphany.  The cheapest way to get a programmable board AFAIK.

http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=46700.msg1083984#msg1083984

im located in the UK so m having trouble finding one. im getting a new keyboard from coolermaster anyways so may just buy a soldering iron and have a play around.

[Grendel]

If the keyboard is enumerated correctly when connecting it via USB (ie. it shows up in the device manager) the crystal is fine -- would be very unlikely to be broken anyways unless there's a known problem w/ this specific part. If it does enumerate, hook up a 2nd board and see if the LEDs change on the bad board when hitting num/caps/scroll lock on the good one. If it doesn't enumerate, check the path off the two USB data lines from the connector to the MCU, could be a cold solder joint or bad connection along the way (esp. on the connector, it's the component that is exposed to the highest mechanical stress in the system making it the most likely point of failure.)

[joelk2]

If the keyboard is enumerated correctly when connecting it via USB (ie. it shows up in the device manager) the crystal is fine -- would be very unlikely to be broken anyways unless there's a known problem w/ this specific part. If it does enumerate, hook up a 2nd board and see if the LEDs change on the bad board when hitting num/caps/scroll lock on the good one. If it doesn't enumerate, check the path off the two USB data lines from the connector to the MCU, could be a cold solder joint or bad connection along the way (esp. on the connector, it's the component that is exposed to the highest mechanical stress in the system making it the most likely point of failure.)

it doesnt show up in device manager. i will check the lines again on the board

im also going to buy a replacement filco cable and plug that into the QFR. this will eliminate the little circuit board and mini usb connection.

[mooswa]

im located in the UK so m having trouble finding one. im getting a new keyboard from coolermaster anyways so may just buy a soldering iron and have a play around.

I'd say get a multimeter and see if voltages on your daughter board make sense according to these traces:

http://deskthority.net/wiki/Controller_matrix_traces#CM_Storm_Quick_Fire_Rapid

If problem is with your daughter board, I don't mind sending you a replacement one.  I do not need my original CM Storm QFR daughter board as I am using the very awesome Frosty Flake.

[joelk2]

im located in the UK so m having trouble finding one. im getting a new keyboard from coolermaster anyways so may just buy a soldering iron and have a play around.

I'd say get a multimeter and see if voltages on your daughter board make sense according to these traces:

http://deskthority.net/wiki/Controller_matrix_traces#CM_Storm_Quick_Fire_Rapid

If problem is with your daughter board, I don't mind sending you a replacement one.  I do not need my original CM Storm QFR daughter board as I am using the very awesome Frosty Flake.

Thanks but isn't that daughter board soldered to the main pcb? I haven't even got a soldering iron.

[elitekeyboards]

Since you're seeing some kind of power applied to the LEDs for a second, my guess is:

90% Chance you have a bad shorted USB Mini-B connector on the keyboard side. It's an SMD connector part on a small module on the underside of the board. I doubt CM will send you a new module so your best bet is finding someone who spilled something on their board and is selling it for cheap, then salvaging the module/connector. However, if you're persistent in your web searching then you may be able to find the same connector for sale and replace it yourself granted you can solder SMD components with some finesse.

10% Chance you have a bad controller or more complicated issue; i.e. xtal/resonator, uProc, etc. Costar does have a minor history of controllers just up and dying (I've a couple boxes of dead FILCOs lying around.), but it's still much more unlikely than a connector issue.

[joelk2]

Since you're seeing some kind of power applied to the LEDs for a second, my guess is:

90% Chance you have a bad shorted USB Mini-B connector on the keyboard side. It's an SMD connector part on a small module on the underside of the board. I doubt CM will send you a new module so your best bet is finding someone who spilled something on their board and is selling it for cheap, then salvaging the module/connector. However, if you're persistent in your web searching then you may be able to find the same connector for sale and replace it yourself granted you can solder SMD components with some finesse.

10% Chance you have a bad controller or more complicated issue; i.e. xtal/resonator, uProc, etc. Costar does have a minor history of controllers just up and dying (I've a couple boxes of dead FILCOs lying around.), but it's still much more unlikely than a connector issue.

you wouldnt happen to have a filco cable handy and live in the uk would you?

i wanna try use a filco cable and plug it straight into the pcb rather than through the daughter board.

[mooswa]

Thanks but isn't that daughter board soldered to the main pcb? I haven't even got a soldering iron.

It is not soldered, it has a bunch of pins going into headers on the main PCB:

http://deskthority.net/w/images/thumb/1/1b/CM_Storm_QFR_Controller_bottom_view.jpg/400px-CM_Storm_QFR_Controller_bottom_view.jpg

You can just pull it up.

[joelk2]

Ahh.  Thankyou. Will have a look at that then.