Author Topic: Looking to repair my Model M  (Read 1573 times)

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Offline Olav

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  • Location: .nl
Looking to repair my Model M
« on: Sat, 04 January 2014, 11:04:59 »
Hello, I just found this site today. Looks very promising.

I am here because I have this IBM Model M keyboard from 1993 that unfortunately has some problems. There are a couple of keys that do not register, and the LEDs do not work. So the next few days I will probably read all your relevant forums in search for possible solutions. If anyone has good pointers to where I should start, that would be much appreciated.

If the old beast can indeed be revived I do not know yet what else I will do with it. Restore it to its former boring beige glory (the keycaps definitely need a bath), or even do something special with it like a pretty paintjob or some other modifications. I am open to ideas regarding this as well.

Regardless of how it turns out I definitely intend to use this keyboard, and hook it up to the fast new PC that I am also building. That would be a great combination.

Not sure what else to write for now but if you need to know more about me, please ask.

Offline E TwentyNine

  • Posts: 884
    • Some of My Keyboards
Re: Looking to repair my Model M
« Reply #1 on: Sat, 04 January 2014, 12:43:17 »
There's a recent thread on that topic here:

http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=52651.msg1169525#msg1169525

Note it may not need a bolt mod, but once you pop it open if any rivets are broken/missing you'll know it does.   Even with all the rivets intact it still could if there's some internal damage to the membrane due to water/age.
« Last Edit: Sat, 04 January 2014, 12:45:37 by E TwentyNine »
Daily driver: SSK or Tenkeyless IBM AT
1984 Model M Industrial Prototype ⌨ 1992 Black Oval Industrial SSK ⌨ 1982 5251 Beam Spring ⌨ 89 Key "SSK" ⌨ M13 triplets

Offline kilogeek

  • Posts: 164
  • Location: France / Toulon
  • Nostalgy of a time when quality was a value
Re: Looking to repair my Model M
« Reply #2 on: Sat, 04 January 2014, 17:51:32 »
You can't replace plastic rivets by bolts !  These model M have been riveted using a factory machine to ensure iso pressure on all the the metal-films-plastic sandwich. I tried this and killed mine for ever (my best score was 2 keys not working but never came to 100%).
It's technically impossible to screw all 50+ bolts with same pressure, and if you can't, some keys won't operate, or worst : your keys layout will look like hills and valleys^^ The metal back pane is a tank, not the black plastic pane holding the springs in place.

However, if you try this, prepare to spend more than 30 hours (more than 50 holes to do), you MUST have perfect tools, and prepare to end up with a dead model M...

What I would do If I had to repair one again :

1. Ensure all electric internal connectors are clean and/or clean them with 90% alcohol and test again
2. if still bugging = dirt, water or rust came on contact films in the "do not dismount" part making short circuits
3. buy several 90% alcohol bottles, enough to make this part take a long bath (2 to 6 hours) shaking it every hour (use a mask or get drunk^^)
4. let it dry in a warm&dry place, vertically (caps lock key bottom or top) for several days
5. optional : you can lubricate BS mechanic with appropriate silicone spray (this is not conductive and anyway there is a silicone layer under the B.S.)
6. No need to assembly all yet, just connect  all, put some key caps and test, if ok put all keys and test each new key, if still bugging somewhere, go back to 3...

This takes time but not your time and at least you're not taking risks in damaging the heart of this KB.

Maybe some have succeeded with bolts, but I would really love to know if the bath alternative works (it was too late for me to try it).

Good Luck, I know what it is to loose a model M, mine was an AZERTY (1995 IBM UK), been seeking for one for almost 6 months with no result...

This is the main weakness of this KB : this not maintainable part should have been waterproof or using clips instead of rivets...
(or better : following what's described in IBM's patent^^)

!!!! other important point : printed circuit on films is made of conductive paint, never use acetone to clean these films, this will remove the paint ! Alcohol or soap water if fine to clean these if you choose to disassembly this main part.
« Last Edit: Sat, 04 January 2014, 18:05:46 by kilogeek »
"Ne pas subir" - Devise de Saint-Cyr.

Offline Olav

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Re: Looking to repair my Model M
« Reply #3 on: Sun, 05 January 2014, 06:09:08 »
Thank you for the replies.

It turns out that whatever I am going to do next, first I will have to find the right screwdriver bit to open this keyboard. My usual bits do not fit in the recesses where the screws are located. So I can not even examine the inside at this point.

Offline E TwentyNine

  • Posts: 884
    • Some of My Keyboards
Re: Looking to repair my Model M
« Reply #4 on: Sun, 05 January 2014, 09:28:34 »
Believe me when I say lots of people have done bolt mods and it is easy to do, and there's plenty of room for error.  It's not brain surgery, you get the bolts snug and that's it.

While testing I've put the keyboard assembly together with just a few bolts along the middle rows and everything worked fine.

But open yours up and look, and go ask questions in the thread I've referenced.
Daily driver: SSK or Tenkeyless IBM AT
1984 Model M Industrial Prototype ⌨ 1992 Black Oval Industrial SSK ⌨ 1982 5251 Beam Spring ⌨ 89 Key "SSK" ⌨ M13 triplets

Offline Olav

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  • Location: .nl
Re: Looking to repair my Model M
« Reply #5 on: Sun, 05 January 2014, 18:00:52 »
Thank you for the encouragement, TwentyNine, I believe you. And I found other references to this bolt mod procedure as well. Looks like somehting I might like to try.

But like I said I first need to collect the right tools. I do not have the proper screw/nut driver to open the keyboard right now.

Would you happen to know the reason the keyboard LEDs would fail, and whether this can be fixed as well?

Thank you again.

Offline TheHardkaare

  • Posts: 30
  • Location: Denmark
Re: Looking to repair my Model M
« Reply #6 on: Mon, 06 January 2014, 09:54:02 »
Welcome to GeekHack, and good luck onwards! Keep me posted with the rig-build ;-)