Dell AT101W, Fujuitsu peerless, Model Ms, Cherry G81's, MX Switches-Advice

[iAPX432]

Good Afternoon,

I am very new to this keyboard community, so please be kind to me even if I seem dumb or like a troll. This question I am writing up is very long; please bear with me, or skim through all the main points if you do not have the time.

 I have done some research on keyboards, but not much. So, i am based in Australia, and is looking for a cheap mechanical keyboard because my $80 Logitech #$%& with stuck keys is inhibiting my productivity and enjoyment. by 'enjoyment' of course I mean typing on the keyboard, as I have come into contact with mechanical keyboards before, although not what you would expect. I have typed on a vintage Apple M0110 keyboard, which came with the original Apple Macintosh which was in storage at my high school. And the feeling, words were not enough to describe. I had set my eyes on mechanical keyboards long before, but after this I would fight tooth and nail to get one. but, being a student, I am financially disadvantaged, although I know that these boards do not come at an affordable price. Even worse, I am in Australia, so I could not just purchase some G80-11900 or Model M for $25 on eBay, and those sorts of used keyboards are rare here and sell for a lot, usually by auction. However, recently this came up:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/AP-POS-G81-8040-Keyboards-/181210154594?pt=AU_HardDrives&hash=item2a30f78662

For $39, this is the cheapest option available to be at the moment. Shipping is omitted since pick up is available. It is a Cherry G81-8040. Depending on how good or bad the MY switches are, I would like to save a large sum of money and purchase this keyboard. Before you start answering that this is a substandard keyboard switch, I type with my two index fingers and tend to bottom out frequently, so I am looking for a switch that is very heavy, for the sole reason of avoiding bottoming out, although switches like MX Clear or Green are out of my reach. One of the worst sensations that I experience when typing is bottoming out, so I would like to avoid that as much as possible. I also noticed that MY switches have a low starting force at 30cN, so I could just float across the keys and never bottom out at 120cN-would the keys still register? Do you think that I will be able to type well on this type of switch? Another factor is high key travel. I absolutely abhor keys that feel like fabric-on-concrete when you hit them, it feels like you are hitting a solid brick wall! Which probably will not be a problem for most mechanical keyboards anyway. Even though I may be young, I also sometimes type on my typewriter for essays where only text is required; it has extremely high key travel, but the actuation point is extremely heavy and the hammer must hit the paper extremely fast.
If buying overseas is worth the price premium then I have these options:

Dell AT101W (spotted a NIB), other alps keyboards
Fujitsu Peerless
Cherry G80-11900 (blacks)
IBM Model M

I would prefer not to purchase a contemporary keyboard with switches like Cherry MX Reds as I am building a retro-themed Personal Computer and I play hardly any games (frankly, they're all boring to me); also, I have a liking for retro technology (typewriter lol). I put away my Logitech keyboard and am currently using a beige rubber dome keyboard from 1999 that I cleaned out and lubricated; the key feel is surprisingly better than contemporary rubber domes, being very smooth and mostly linear; but also having a crisp tactility at the start, although I think having the tactility at the actuation point as with most mechanical keyboards would be preferable. However, to be rewarded with an above-average typing experience, I frequently have to type quickly and lightly; though not too lightly, as this is a rubber dome keyboard. This means that a specific amount of force is required; when I am tired or distracted, for example, my typing speed will decrease, as I am not concentrating much on typing. I know this is contradictory to what I have said, but will Cherry MX Blacks be fine for my typing style, as it is linear and is heavier than MX Reds?

I apologise if this is confusing you, like I said, I prefer to type lightly but I type with two fingers so even if I mean to type 'lightly' I may push the key down fully because of my typing style. In other words, I enjoy typing lightly but end up bottoming out anyway.

So, I am left with a choice, although not all of the switches listed may fit my requirements. Sorry if I'm making grammatical errors or not much sense as I just went through a large amount of homework and I am tired. In fact, I think most mechanical switches will give me a satisfactory typing experience, apart from MX Browns/Reds/Blues because of the low actuation force. However I would like one that would really boost my typing. As I've said the chance encounter with the vintage Alps Apple keyboard only lasted a few seconds at best so I haven't had a real feel of mechanical keyboards so who knows, I could be typing 70+ wpm on a MX Blue board!

So, these are my thoughts on the type of switches, I would like to hear you advice and recommendations:

Cherry MX Black (G80-11900)
-Medium actuation force
-Linear-allows faster, lighter typing
-The G80-11900 has an integrated trackpad

-Not as heavy

Alps (Del AT101W, Siig Minitouch, etc)
-I don't really have much info, would you please tell me what these are similar to (both black and white)

Fujitsu Peerless
-There's currently a listing on eBay that sells this keyboard with 2 Key Tronics which is why i am considering it; apart from that, i really do not have much information.

IBM Model M
-Heavy, very tactile
-Durable and readily available

-Noisy

Also, I've heard that the IBM Model M can be used to smash things or as a weapon. How credible is this statement? Would i be able to do the same with a Dell AT101W, Cherry G80-11900, other Alps keyboards, Key Tronics, or any other mechanical keyboard? Not that I'll be using it for those purposes of course, but it's good to have a keyboard that will last more than my high school or even university years, and can survive occasional shocks.

Thank you for your time reading this extremely long question and for your advice.

[fohat.digs]

You have asked too many questions with mutually exclusive answers. Most people here strongly dislike MY switches.

What will your budget support?

The best keyboard for typing, at the lowest cost, is probably the Dell AT101, in the states these are plentiful and cheap. Alps are known for excellence in typing, but AT101s do not always age well. A good one is good, but a bad one is bad.

The Cherry G80-11900 may be your best bet. It is the worst for typing, but is a pleasure to use if you can stand the weight of the keys. The trackpad is excellent and very handy.

If you can afford a Model M, that is surely the most durable.

I think that you will certainly want O-rings if you go for Cherry switches, there are posts here for cheap ones.

[CPTBadAss]

Depending on how good or bad the MY switches are, I would like to save a large sum of money and purchase this keyboard.

Don't bother with MY boards unless you want the keycaps. In my opinion, MY switches are some of the worst switches I've tried. They've been described as "prodding a dead octopus" and "wet newspaper".

I would prefer not to purchase a contemporary keyboard with switches like Cherry MX Reds as I am building a retro-themed Personal Computer and I play hardly any games (frankly, they're all boring to me); also, I have a liking for retro technology (typewriter lol). I put away my Logitech keyboard and am currently using a beige rubber dome keyboard from 1999 that I cleaned out and lubricated; the key feel is surprisingly better than contemporary rubber domes, being very smooth and mostly linear; but also having a crisp tactility at the start, although I think having the tactility at the actuation point as with most mechanical keyboards would be preferable. However, to be rewarded with an above-average typing experience, I frequently have to type quickly and lightly; though not too lightly, as this is a rubber dome keyboard. This means that a specific amount of force is required; when I am tired or distracted, for example, my typing speed will decrease, as I am not concentrating much on typing. I know this is contradictory to what I have said, but will Cherry MX Blacks be fine for my typing style, as it is linear and is heavier than MX Reds?

I apologise if this is confusing you, like I said, I prefer to type lightly but I type with two fingers so even if I mean to type 'lightly' I may push the key down fully because of my typing style. In other words, I enjoy typing lightly but end up bottoming out anyway.

I haven't had a real feel of mechanical keyboards so who knows, I could be typing 70+ wpm on a MX Blue board!

This is confusing to me but I think there's a simple solution. Just get a keyswitch tester. This Deck one looks really cool and you can try the four common MX switch types.

1) Cherry MX Black (G80-11900)

2) Alps (Del AT101W, Siig Minitouch, etc)

3) Fujitsu Peerless

4) IBM Model M

I think I own four of the five keyboards/switch types you listed. If you have to import something, and based on how I understand your typing style, I think a Model M would be nice for you. I've never tried a Fujitsu Peerless so I have no opinion on that. I like Blacks but they're completely linear and you suggested you'd like tactile feedback.

I love my Alps boards and I've written a review on the AT101W. And I have a review on buckling spring switches here.

However I also think that MX switches are the best beginning mechanical switches since they're easily found and there's lots of aftermarket options for them.

Also, I've heard that the IBM Model M can be used to smash things or as a weapon. How credible is this statement? Would i be able to do the same with a Dell AT101W, Cherry G80-11900, other Alps keyboards, Key Tronics, or any other mechanical keyboard? Not that I'll be using it for those purposes of course, but it's good to have a keyboard that will last more than my high school or even university years, and can survive occasional shocks.

The SSK I'm typing on is about 5 lbs and is older than I am. It was built in 1987. The AT101W is probably the second most solid Alps board I've tried. The G80-11900 is probably the lightest.

But most mechanical keyboards will outlast your interest in them. In other words, your keyboard will probably still be around well after you get bored of the keyboard hobby.

[crunch]

Here is a Dell AT101W.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dell-Keyboard-US-M-C-AT101W-vintage-mechanical-keyboard-ps-2-new-in-box-/131104336399?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_KeyboardsMice&hash=item1e866d6a0f

You could try make a cheaper offer, and the shipping is only £5.

[CPTBadAss]

Here is a Dell AT101W.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dell-Keyboard-US-M-C-AT101W-vintage-mechanical-keyboard-ps-2-new-in-box-/131104336399?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_KeyboardsMice&hash=item1e866d6a0f

You could try make a cheaper offer, and the shipping is only £5.

OP is based in Australia...think the shipping from UK to Australia would cost a little more than that.

[berserkfan]

You have asked too many questions with mutually exclusive answers. Most people here strongly dislike MY switches.

What will your budget support?

The best keyboard for typing, at the lowest cost, is probably the Dell AT101, in the states these are plentiful and cheap. Alps are known for excellence in typing, but AT101s do not always age well. A good one is good, but a bad one is bad.

The Cherry G80-11900 may be your best bet. It is the worst for typing, but is a pleasure to use if you can stand the weight of the keys. The trackpad is excellent and very handy.

If you can afford a Model M, that is surely the most durable.

I think that you will certainly want O-rings if you go for Cherry switches, there are posts here for cheap ones.

Just want to lend my word of support for Fohat. He basically said everything I would have said. I personally have a 11900 and can assure you as to the quality.

[iAPX432]

Here is a Dell AT101W.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dell-Keyboard-US-M-C-AT101W-vintage-mechanical-keyboard-ps-2-new-in-box-/131104336399?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_KeyboardsMice&hash=item1e866d6a0f

You could try make a cheaper offer, and the shipping is only £5.

OP is based in Australia...think the shipping from UK to Australia would cost a little more than that.

According to the eBay shipping calculator the price is unchanged for shipping to Australia, so I will keep my eye on that if it doesn't sell out too quickly.

And even if I may not buy an MY switch keyboard, your exceptionally negative opinions of the MY switch have aroused my curiosity.
I wouldn't like to bother you on something that is most disliked by this community and I will probably buy an Alps board such as the one above, but what exactly causes the horrible feeling of MY switches? The force curve? I have a typewriter which is quite light for almost all of the travel but when the hammer hits the ribbon and the paper I am required to press really hard and quickly for the hammer to hit the paper with the ink properly. Is this similar to a MY switch? Although with typewriter you HAVE to bottom out and quite vigorously, this is not a problem for keyboards. The low starting force is why I am giving this switch even a thought.

I've found this on eBay: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AST-Research-Inc-Vintage-Clicky-Keyboard-ASTKB101-230012-003-/271045315721?pt=PCA_Mice_Trackballs&hash=item3f1b8f4c89
and
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Acros-6311-K-Computer-Keyboard-clicky-PS-2-click-PC-6311k-Acer-Black-Switchs-/400655668046?pt=PCA_Mice_Trackballs&hash=item5d48f0534e
Are these switches good(if they are mechanical?)

And also some IBM POS keyboard of which there is no information on the internet apart from online retailers selling the used model:
44T4021 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/IBM-POS-Keyboard-44T4021-/280733037183?pt=AU_CashRegisterAccessories&hash=item415cfe327f
It doesn't come with a cable, but could I use a Model M cable?
41J8065/41J8075
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/IBM-POS-system-keyboard-Top-FRU-41J8065-41J8075-commonly-used-on-the-4800-/301082501825?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4619ea62c1
Even if they're not worth a look does anyone know what sort of key switch they use?

Also, Cherry G84 keyboards. They don't have high key travel, but I could cope if I can get used to the switch. Right now a full-size keyboard takes about 85% of the space on the slide-out drawer in my desk because I'm using a beast of a CRT monitor so the compact layout would be better for desk space.

Again thank you for reading and for your replies. I will most likely buy a Dell AT101W anyway.

[dorkvader]

Here is a Dell AT101W.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dell-Keyboard-US-M-C-AT101W-vintage-mechanical-keyboard-ps-2-new-in-box-/131104336399?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_KeyboardsMice&hash=item1e866d6a0f

You could try make a cheaper offer, and the shipping is only £5.

OP is based in Australia...think the shipping from UK to Australia would cost a little more than that.

According to the eBay shipping calculator the price is unchanged for shipping to Australia, so I will keep my eye on that if it doesn't sell out too quickly.

Someone who bought it said the ebay seller said they mis-listed the international shipping price and that it was actually much more ($28 or so I think). They ended up splitting the difference. I would not expect the international shipping price to be so low for a KB from him anymore.

MY switches are a particular assembly over membrane. In the case of the MY, there are two pieces that provide resistance. There is a spring and a contact leaf mechanism. The reason why they feel so bad to type on is that the way the two combine, it's an uninteresting linear switch for part of the travel, but the force ramps up in an unpleasant way as you approach the bottom (and actuation). That's why they feel mushy or squidlike, or wet newspaper-esque to most people. They are almost universally disliked. I consider them worse than most rubberdomes.

Typewriters are different. I haven't used one of that type recently, so I can't really comment.

Of those linked keybaords, I was able to find some info. The AST research one lists an FCC ID on the back djk7mhastkb101 It's registered to AST research inc, so it gives little indication as to the type. Since it was granted back in 1986, there's a decent chance of it being mechainical, possibly ALPS of some sort. Looking at the keycaps, it may even be cherry MX blacks.

The next one, Acros, says it features acer switches. Acers are like MY in that they are an assembly over a membrane, but in the case of the acers, the assembly provides tactile response. I've never sued it, but you can find some info here. I would say the arcos 6311 is close to an acer 6311. Takeapart pictures here.

I have some IBM point of sale keybaords like that at work. They are unimpressive. Rubber dome over membrane, but they are slightly nicer than most rubber domes, as they include a metal backplate. Nothing special, though. The ones we have at work use SDL to PS/2 cables, like a model M, but I haven't yet confirmed compatibility.

Cherry G84 keyboards use an ML switch which is somewhat nice, but very low travel (roughly 2mm, which is about half a standard switch) I compare them favorably to scissor switches. You can get G84 keyboards very cheaply, but they don't have a well optimized matrix and (as far as I can tell) are all 2KRO.

Given your proximity, you may consider researching a decent IBM model M or ALPS switch keyboard in taobao. Optionally, there are some companies (cooler master, DAS, etc.) with distribution in your country.


Edit: oh, and welcome to geekhack!

[iAPX432]

Also, if this helps, I type at 45-60wpm with two fingers on the keyboard and max out at around 40 on the typewriter.

I think that is how all typewriters feel like-if I confused you.

Also, through eBay.com.au the price for the Dell AT101W previously listed from England:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Dell-Keyboard-AT101W-vintage-mechanical-keyboard-ps-2-new-in-box-USA-Version-/131105297778?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_KeyboardsMice&hash=item1e867c1572&_uhb=1
seems to be raised only to 8 pounds. 25+8 British Pound Sterling=cheap, isn't it? Now let's convert it to AUD. Because Australia's economy is worse than the British, or Europe, or America (I used to remember a time when you could get more American dollars for an Australian dollar), this translates to roughly $60. Only $20 more than the MY board which is relieving.

I looked at a MY force diagram and the actuation seems to be around the middle-how much cN would this be?

P. S Just one last question and I'll shut up about MY switches or G81-8040 keyboards-could I possibly use the magnetic stripe card reader with some blank magnetic cards like these
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/50x-blank-CR80-ID-ISO-PVC-Credit-Card-LoCo-1-3-Magnetic-Stripe-PVC-Card-Printer-/270877171108?pt=AU_CashRegisterAccessories&hash=item3f11899da4
and how?

Thank you

[CPTBadAss]

Cherry G84 keyboards use an ML switch which is somewhat nice, but very low travel (roughly 2mm, which is about half a standard switch) I compare them favorably to scissor switches. You can get G84 keyboards very cheaply, but they don't have a well optimized matrix and (as far as I can tell) are all 2KRO.

I didn't hate ML switches but you don't hit them dead on, they feel scratchy and the travel feels off. I usually type and hit the switches dead on so this issue is negated.

Also, if this helps, I type at 45-60wpm with two fingers on the keyboard and max out at around 40 on the typewriter.

I think that is how all typewriters feel like-if I confused you.

WPM doesn't really tell us how you'd like your switches to feel. I can't tell you what you'd like. That's why I've been trying to stress personal preference.

Just one last question and I'll shut up about MY switches or G81-8040 keyboards-could I possibly use the magnetic stripe card reader with some blank magnetic cards like these
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/50x-blank-CR80-ID-ISO-PVC-Credit-Card-LoCo-1-3-Magnetic-Stripe-PVC-Card-Printer-/270877171108?pt=AU_CashRegisterAccessories&hash=item3f11899da4
and how?

You probably can get it to work. I don't know how.

Why not just get a G80-XXXX Keyboard with a card reader? There's point of sale keyboard with them. Honestly, a lot of times, the numbers don't tell you how the switch will feel. I won't recommend an MY keyboard to you or anyone else .

[fohat.digs]

this translates to roughly $60.

60 dollars is too much for an AT101. Of at least a dozen that I have owned, a third were great, a third were OK, and a third were bad. One was actually horrendous. Many people here carp about the Dell because they got one of the bad ones, which left a very bad impression.

One of my good ones was one that I got new with a Dell computer system in the mid-late-1990s, used hard for several years, put away in a closet for a few years, and used again. It was still good, so I am convinced that it is not age or use that degrades them.

Be patient and wait for a domestic seller. At the low end of the price range, international shipping will be more than the price of the keyboard itself, which is silly.

There are a lot of Model Ms in Australia. Isn't there one store called "AA" or "AAA" in Sydney or somewhere?

[CPTBadAss]

And there's a few Australian members who might have some goodies in the Classifieds. I agree, $60 is too much for an AT101W.

[berserkfan]

[/quote]

You probably can get it to work. I don't know how.

Why not just get a G80-XXXX Keyboard with a card reader? There's point of sale keyboard with them. Honestly, a lot of times, the numbers don't tell you how the switch will feel. I won't recommend an MY keyboard to you or anyone else .
[/quote]

CPTBadAss, I have an 80-8200 with the card reader, and while I like it enough, I don't think most people would. Due to the PCB-mounting and the lack of a metal backplate, it definitely does not feel as good as a filco or das or even a Razer. I would not recommend anybody buying it except for the nice doubleshot keycaps and the easily modded key switches.

[CPTBadAss]

I like it enough.

I would not recommend anybody buying it except for the nice doubleshot keycaps and the easily modded key switches.

So do you like it or not? A little confusing since it seems you're contradicting yourself a little.

[adder]

Just an observation: You mention that you type with your index fingers at around 40 words per minute (which is quite fast for two-finger typing). Also, that you bottom out a lot and that you hate bottoming out.

It would be really great for you to use more fingers for typing. Apart from the obvious speed gains, you will take better care of your hands.
Also, typing with just the index fingers results in many more bottom outs, due to the typing position that concentrates the force on your index fingers. Typing with more fingers will result in less bottom outs.

[CPTBadAss]

Also, typing with just the index fingers results in many more bottom outs, due to the typing position that concentrates the force on your index fingers. Typing with more fingers will result in less bottom outs.

I can touch type and type with all my fingers. I always bottom out when I type. I agree that learning proper typing form would be better in general but don't generalize too much.

[berserkfan]

I like it enough.

I would not recommend anybody buying it except for the nice doubleshot keycaps and the easily modded key switches.

So do you like it or not? A little confusing since it seems you're contradicting yourself a little.

Nothing is perfect, that's why I have difficulty making a one-sided definite claim.

11900 and 11800 feel pretty good. Maybe their smaller size makes them stiffer.

80-8200 feels cheap and flimsy. However, the doubleshots are very nice. Furthermore, it is easily modded.

Because I don't game, I can still use the 80-8200. I have plenty use for the macros on my desktop. But most geekhackers are kids, and most game, or they have laptops and like TKLs.

That's why I am ok with 80-8200, yet strongly believe the 80-8200 is unsuitable for the vast majority of geekhackers.

[fohat.digs]

11900 and 11800 feel pretty good. Maybe their smaller size makes them stiffer.

All (3 or 4) of my 11900s have been black Cherries, aren't the 11800s brown Cherries?

There is a world of difference between black and brown.

[iAPX432]

Just an observation: You mention that you type with your index fingers at around 40 words per minute (which is quite fast for two-finger typing). Also, that you bottom out a lot and that you hate bottoming out.

It would be really great for you to use more fingers for typing. Apart from the obvious speed gains, you will take better care of your hands.
Also, typing with just the index fingers results in many more bottom outs, due to the typing position that concentrates the force on your index fingers. Typing with more fingers will result in less bottom outs.

Hey, I could prevent bottoming out by getting used to the MY switch which has a peak force of 120cN at the bottom and then move on to another switch after adjusting to the light weight. But financially it would not be viable-I am a student.

I had this keyboard in mind for a long time now and I seem to have forgotten about it:

http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/blackett/other-electronics-computers/advantest-test-equipment-keyboard-tr45103-jg1/1038025573

It's $30 which means I can buy it now. If the link doesn't work, the name of the keyboard according to the seller is:

Advantest Test Equipment Keyboard - TR45103

This would be most definitely mechanical keyboard-correct?
Seems to be of considerable age - what connector will this use and will it be compatible with modern (i. e. PS/2) Personal Computers?

Just a brief comment about this seller, I contacted them to purchase a G80-11900 which was for $10, and then they cancelled the sale, stating that someone had bought them both AFTER I contacted them to buy one. Seems they wanted to raise the price (as they did with this keyboard) because they didn't know prior that it was a mechanical. Anyway, even if this is a bad seller I want a mechanical keyboard badly so if I can buy it then I will be satisfied.

Edit: Chance of this having doubleshots? I am not a hardcore keyboard enthusiast-all I need is something that doesn't feel like a rubberdome keyboard, but considering that doubleshots are rare...

On a side note, I am actually worried that some Australian member will take notice of this advertisment after reading about it here and snatch it before my eyes lol

[fohat.digs]

This would be most definitely mechanical keyboard-correct?
Seems to be of considerable age - what connector will this use and will it be compatible with modern Personal Computers?

Just a brief comment about this seller, I contacted them to purchase a G80-11900 which was for $10, and then they cancelled the sale,

Edit: Chance of this having doubleshots?

An ancient keyboard does not necessarily have mechanical switches. That one looks amazing but would probably be very difficult to work with.

G80-11900s sell between US$30-40 shipped domestic, anything less would be a fluke. All of mine have had very nice dye sub PBT, which I consider preferable to doubleshot ABS, but the majority of users probably prefer ABS.

[iAPX432]

This would be most definitely mechanical keyboard-correct?
Seems to be of considerable age - what connector will this use and will it be compatible with modern Personal Computers?

Just a brief comment about this seller, I contacted them to purchase a G80-11900 which was for $10, and then they cancelled the sale,

Edit: Chance of this having doubleshots?

An ancient keyboard does not necessarily have mechanical switches. That one looks amazing but would probably be very difficult to work with.

G80-11900s sell between US$30-40 shipped domestic, anything less would be a fluke. All of mine have had very nice dye sub PBT, which I consider preferable to doubleshot ABS, but the majority of users probably prefer ABS.

By 'hard to work with', do you mean getting it work on new systems? Also in Australia vintage mechanicals are very rare, much rarer than in the United States, usually going for over $100 in auction. Attempting to find a good deal or waiting would be fruitless.

[fohat.digs]

By 'hard to work with', do you mean getting it work on new systems? Also in Australia vintage mechanicals are very rare, much rarer than in the United States, usually going for over $100 in auction. Attempting to find a good deal or waiting would be fruitless.

I totally agree, this would probably be a fantastic investment.

But expecting to plug it into a modern computer and just having it work is delusional.

But ask Soarer, he knows a lot more about these things than I do.

[welsinki]

Another question related to what OP is asking. Would keys from MY keyboards fit on MX modern keyboards?

[CPTBadAss]

Another question related to what OP is asking. Would keys from MY keyboards fit on MX modern keyboards?

Yes

[iAPX432]

Another question related to what OP is asking. Would keys from MY keyboards fit on MX modern keyboards?

Don't throw away your keyless MY boards -give them to me!
 
(Except I don't know where you live and I'm in Australia)

[iAPX432]

I see a lot of Model Ms missing some keycaps and in place are smaller, generic ones. How did everyone get these? I don't think IBM would have sold these separately...

[fohat.digs]

Model M/Fs generally have 2-piece keys. The "stems" are smaller and do the actual work, and the "caps" fit over them.

You can use the stems without the caps. It is a nuisance to replace them, but if it lowers the cost of the board to make it affordable, you should buy it.

Unfortunately, many sellers want to charge full price for boards with missing caps.

[daetsid]

You have asked too many questions with mutually exclusive answers. Most people here strongly dislike MY switches.

What will your budget support?

The best keyboard for typing, at the lowest cost, is probably the Dell AT101, in the states these are plentiful and cheap. Alps are known for excellence in typing, but AT101s do not always age well. A good one is good, but a bad one is bad.

The Cherry G80-11900 may be your best bet. It is the worst for typing, but is a pleasure to use if you can stand the weight of the keys. The trackpad is excellent and very handy.

If you can afford a Model M, that is surely the most durable.

I think that you will certainly want O-rings if you go for Cherry switches, there are posts here for cheap ones.

Just want to lend my word of support for Fohat. He basically said everything I would have said. I personally have a 11900 and can assure you as to the quality.

Same here,

Using a 11900 as a daily driver...I love it. Specially with the old type cherry POM caps 

[welsinki]

Another question related to what OP is asking. Would keys from MY keyboards fit on MX modern keyboards?

Don't throw away your keyless MY boards -give them to me!
 
(Except I don't know where you live and I'm in Australia)

I would if I had any to give 

[iAPX432]

Does anyone know what sort of switches a Tandy portable computer Model 100 or an Amstrad NC100 uses?

[dorkvader]

from what I remember, amstrad sometimes used a spring-over-membrane design that I suspect is quasi-similar to MY, though those portables likely use something else (they look low profile: meaning the switches at best will be scissor switches. at best.)

I did some looking, and the TRS model 100 has an inside PCB picture on wikipedia
https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/5/55/TRS-80_Model-100_Inside.jpg

looking at it, it looks like it might have low profile vintage alps switches
http://deskthority.net/wiki/Alps_low-profile_oval_slider

and lo: the TRS-80 model 100 is on the list! mystery solved with a little searching.

[iAPX432]

Well, I found two G84-4100s at an electronics recycler at a computer fair. They were two dollars each. Another stall was selling a cleaner black G84 for $10, but I skipped that (for this week). I also purchased a 5.25" floppy drive for my retro PC. With printed keycaps and ABS plastic. Not that it really matters because I got them for two dollars. I washed one of them for immediate use-and lost the F4 key!  As for the switch feeling, at first I believed it to be a dome keyboard, but after properly typing on it, it feels much better than any full-height keyboard I've tried, except maybe the Apple M0110. It's a pleasue typing but it'll take some getting used to for blind two-finger typing. I realised that heavy switches are not for me; I can also prbably never get back to using a full-travel keyboard unless mechanical, which was also quite the contrary to what I had said before. You never really know unless you try them out properly. Thanks for the help everyone!

P. S. Where could I find replacement keycaps from a provider that does international shipping?

[Daniel Beardsmore]

Cherry ML switches have a very firm tactile feel that, while scratchy, is still more defined and cleaner than the limp, spongy feel of so many laptops. I would consider it more tactile even than MX blue. Keeping the 45 cN actuation in only 3 mm of travel is made of win. The only gotcha is the few full-size ML keyboards out there are rare, and ugly.

[jacobolus]

The Dolch ML keyboard is full-size, right? It’s pretty nice looking, e.g. http://www.ebay.com/itm/251161996015

(Though not easy to find cheaply.)

[Daniel Beardsmore]

I have yet to see one of those in ISO.