Looking to buy first mechanical keyboard need advice.

[Darkleaf84]

Hello I'm new to GH, Trying to find my first mechanical keyboard and hitting roadblocks. Not in stock, self doubt on build quality, import price too high, whether or not i need a backlight etc..

Well for a few months maybe years Idk I've wanted a better keyboard. I got a better head set, still have a decent mouse, a better GFX card now I think its my keyboards turn. My current keyboard is... well for the lack of a better word garbage. Its some kind of membrane keyboard that I don't think even has a name just some weird symbol lol. Well about 2 days ago I dove head first into the internet and got soaked as far as keyboard info. Abs vs PBT key caps, what a keycap remover was, mx cherry switches(Red, black,green,clear,white,grey,brown,blue etc), words like DUCKY, filco, wasd, daskeyboad, leopold, CM STORM Quick Fire, Max keyboard, Deck, the list goes on an on. I've watched several hours of reviews and spent probably 15-20 hours or so research or more idk i've lost track of time probably longer. The more I read the more confused/ more self doubt as to which keyboard to buy cause some say filco is good some say bad same with ducky back and forth banter on so many forums its hard to keep it all straight.

My experience with keyboards thus far as been crap membranes, I've used a black widow a few years ago Very clicky very loud. But my hands are weird I can't seem to get used to macro keys on the left of my keyboard so I try to get keybaords without Macro keys now so I returned it. And just last week I had gotten a Logitech g710 brown switches I loved the way it felt but once again macro keys kept disorienting my touch type I kept going for esc and hitting G1 or I keep getting off by 1 row.

I liked the way MX Cherry Brown switches felt when I used the keyboard for a few days or so before i returned it. It was a nice in between from other keyboards ive seen at stores and not very loud so thatll be my choice of switch. and I need a full size keyboard + 10key + arrow keys. I don't need macros, and I'm not sure about backlighting. Plastics No clue I hear ABS wears out and becomes shiny slick like i've experienced with other keyboards. But how does abs compare to PBT to ABS uv coated? I'm pretty damn clueless as to where to go from there. I've spent the last few days searching between newegg/tigerdirect/duckychannel/amazon/ebay/igerimports/mechanicalkeyboards.com/wasd.com/daskeyboard.com and getting nowhere fast T_T.

[isaske]

I understand your confusion, I had the same problems, reading about so many things, understanding very few.
The ABS vs PBT u mentioned refers to the plastic material used to produce keycaps. They feel different on different MX switches, for example, i feel like PBT feels very good on MX red/brown, but that's personal preference. You just have to try it out for yourself. Also, PBT and ABS materials usually cover the custom keycap sets you buy on GH/originative/... The stock caps are usually very cheap plastic and wear out fast. The one example i can think of that uses PBT stock caps is the Leopold FC700R, which overall is a great keyboard. You can google it and if you like it, go to classifieds and check the thread WTS FC700R created by the user Hendyzone.

For the keyboard choice, it seems u don't like blue MX too much. Those are the most clicky ones that also sound the loudest. Quality-wise, i think FILCO keyboards are the best, they dont have backlighting thuogh. So if you touch-type, i would recommend a FILCO. They are expensive, but they feel really solid. If you really want backlighting, i would recommend a Ducky/CM keyboard.

It also depends what you will be using your keyboard for; more gaming or more typing oriented. Generally, MX browns/blues are more for typists because you have a clear feedback as to when the switch registers. Reds/blacks are more for gamers, but it's really just personal preference.

Another thing you have to bear in mind are the stabilisers used in the keyboard you're buying. Stabilisers are used with the larger keys, so enter/backspace/spacebar/etc in order to balance the keypresses. They can be costar or cherry. Cherry stabs feel more mushy, and change the feel of the switch, whereas costar stabs make the longer keys feel the same as other keys. For example, if choosing from backlighted keyboards, Ducky has cherry stabilisers and CM keyboards have costar, i believe. This doesn't affect the quality of the keyboard, it's personal perference again. I personally cannot stand cherry stabs, the only upside is that keycaps can be exchanged easier on larger keys if they have cherry stabs.

I hope i at least answered some of your questions, if not, ask again
Hope this helps

[rowdy]

Welcome to Geekhack!

So your criteria are basically full size (104 or 108 key) and MX browns.

Ducky is good - you can get DUcky Zero without backlighting, or Ducky Shine with backlighting.

Filco is excellent, if you don't mind spending a bit extra.

KeyCool is generally good, and a bit cheaper, if you don't mind ordering from overseas (typically).

As you are in US, https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/ is probably as good a place to start as any.

If it's not in stock, they will probably get it in soon.

[tbc]

keep in mind that the logitech uses browns with orings, so they feel different compared to vanilla browns.

[rowdy]

keep in mind that the logitech uses browns with orings, so they feel different compared to vanilla browns.

Although O-rings can be added to almost any MX-compatible keycaps.

[BlueBär]

Another thing you have to bear in mind are the stabilisers used in the keyboard you're buying. Stabilisers are used with the larger keys, so enter/backspace/spacebar/etc in order to balance the keypresses. They can be costar or cherry. Cherry stabs feel more mushy, and change the feel of the switch, whereas costar stabs make the longer keys feel the same as other keys. For example, if choosing from backlighted keyboards, Ducky has cherry stabilisers and CM keyboards have costar, i believe. This doesn't affect the quality of the keyboard, it's personal perference again. I personally cannot stand cherry stabs, the only upside is that keycaps can be exchanged easier on larger keys if they have cherry stabs.

Ducky clips the Cherry stabilizers which makes them feel a lot better. Some people like clipped Cherry stabs more than Costar stabs

[isaske]

Another thing you have to bear in mind are the stabilisers used in the keyboard you're buying. Stabilisers are used with the larger keys, so enter/backspace/spacebar/etc in order to balance the keypresses. They can be costar or cherry. Cherry stabs feel more mushy, and change the feel of the switch, whereas costar stabs make the longer keys feel the same as other keys. For example, if choosing from backlighted keyboards, Ducky has cherry stabilisers and CM keyboards have costar, i believe. This doesn't affect the quality of the keyboard, it's personal perference again. I personally cannot stand cherry stabs, the only upside is that keycaps can be exchanged easier on larger keys if they have cherry stabs.

Ducky clips the Cherry stabilizers which makes them feel a lot better. Some people like clipped Cherry stabs more than Costar stabs

True, so true. Too bad i don't find the courage to try it out myself. It seems so dangerous for my keyboard 

[Lastpilot]

Dude. Save yourself the entire factory MX keyboard journey and gather funds for a custom aluminum board. It is so worth it. So. Worth. It.

[BlueBär]

Dude. Save yourself the entire factory MX keyboard journey and gather funds for a custom aluminum board. It is so worth it. So. Worth. It.

You need to start somewhere and I don't think a custom board is the right place to start...

[ynrozturk]

Yeah, spending like over $400 on a Korean custom on your first board is a bit silly.

[Grendel]

Start with this QF XT and add these rings. Then start looking for better caps and/or a different board...

[Lastpilot]

 I can admit it.
 I am silly.
 I am obsessed with the korean custom boards.

I can only speak from my own experience so this is the advice I would have given myself if I could go back in time.

I knew for sure I was looking for a solid, beautiful and modern cherry mx board and I knew that a korean custom was the epitome of that category. When I first became a lurker on GH, the KMAC craze was just starting and I instantly fell in love with images of DanGWanG and Reaper's titanium anodized boards [among others of course]. I spent countless hours looking through the Post your korean keyboard thread just enjoying the fact that these machines exist. It's what kept me coming back, it's what got me to register, and it's why I'm still here.

At the time the cheapest alu-cased board was a Poker X with a CNC case. It was not cheap, weighing in at over half the price of a fully alu housed TKL. I got the poker in hopes of temporary satiating my hunger for a solid metal board. But alas, in a few short months, I knew that I had to part with it in order to save funds for a "real" aluminum board. The taste of 6061 only made me want more.

Later that year, I purchased a KMAC LE for almost $400; my first TKL board.  Life is different now. I'm there. I made it.  It suffices to say that this board lived up to my expectations and was worth every last penny. The heft, the build quality and the looks. It was all there. The board is one of the first things I touch in the morning and one of the last things I touch at night. It literally looks, feels and weighs like $400. Maybe more. I'm constantly feeling the cold hard angles and bevels of the board, in awe of it's precision machining. No matter what I'm doing on the computer I am almost always aware of the keyboard.  I'm never "trapped" at my desk at home. I want to be there because of my board. My stupidly awesomely expensive korean custom board.

One of the reasons I could sell the KMAC at cost was because I loved having it so much. It was worth the loss of selling it for $330. In my mind I paid about $12 a month to have the board for the six months of ownership. The only reason I sold it was to find a board that supported full backlight so I got an LZ.

So of course, if I am going to give advice on what keyboard you should buy, it's going to be a custom alu board because I have an obsession. Geekhack itself is a hub of keyboard obsession. And I think a custom fully-housed aluminum board is the best way to express that obsession.

Korean customs are not practical. But falling in love never is.

[Linkbane]

I like that lastpilot expressed his opinion on customs. Even Thoth it might not be practical at the moment, it's something to consider and now the TS knows what at least one person thinks of them.

For recommendation, the website rowdy suggested is great; good prices and lots of stock. Don't worry too much about quality, unless you deliberately want an expensive board. Even though it's taboo to say, a BW, with its well-known bad quality, is still decent and should last you a decade, given care. Keycool boards are a nice start, having medium PBT, (I've heard) good quality, and backlit/regular versions.

[BlueBär]

...
Korean customs are not practical. But falling in love never is.

It feels weird reading other people's loveletters

Even though it's taboo to say, a BW, with its well-known bad quality, is still decent and should last you a decade, given care.

You know there's more things than switches that can break on a keyboard...

[Darkleaf84]

Well funny enough I've spent the last 2 days looking at forums, websites, wikis, reading some of this websites reviews when i stumbled upon them, watching review videos and searching market places.
I've honestly never used a TKL keybaord I've always used a full size so I'm used to the size and weight on one. Also alot of mmo's I play I do lots of crafting and selling and keep logs of buying/selling, so I use the 10 key as like an accountant would typing with my right hand.

As far as the CM Storm series I was considering The following. The CM QF XT full 104, no back light, no macros leds to show if mod keys were pressed, USB cable removable. The problem is the micro USB portion that connects to the board doesnt have any under the keyboard cable management I worry about it wiggling and messing up the PCB.

The CM QF PRO  full 104, partial backlight, no macros, Red LED's, USB is removable and has a cable management groove under the keyboard I like this. in stock at Newegg/95/tigerdirect99/MK106/amazon 95 ish
The Cm QF ultimate, full 104, full backlighting, no macros, brown switches would be white Led's for backlighting, removable USB and under keyboard management I also like this keyboard. not in stock anywhere

Of course I worry about getting a cheaper keybaord and it failing in a few months also the keycaps look pretty cheap


Ducky TW brand, full 104, full backlighting, no macros, removable USB with underkeyboard cable management grooves, gold plated connectors. 140-150 ish before tax and shipping I can't find these in stock anywhere.

Deck full 108 hassium , full backlighting, Idk if it has macros, and removeable USB cable, and honestly IDK if it has cable grooves underneath, it has double shot PBT keycaps, But its expensive $180 for the keyboard if you can find it in stock, and $20 for a frame that adds a palm rest.

Filco -JP brand, full 104 keybaord, full backlighting, no macros, no backlighting that i see, solid cable, looks to be a solid construction. No frills no lights macros but looks decent amazons out but NCIX has it for $150

DAS- 104, no backlighting, no macros, removeable USB cable, solid weight and construction, I don't like that its shiny keys but i could always get caps Its $139 from das

WASD- 104 no backlignting no macros, Removeable USB cable, solid weight and construction, They use UV coated ABS which is supposed to be more durable idk i've never used them. I like the fact I can totally customize the keys and colors and buy sound dampeners there. $150 with brown switches 155, if i got sound dampeners 180

Theres others I havn't really researched much but i'll list what i know. leopolds which appear to be no frills mech i think are like 110bucks no bl no macros not sure about build quality, maxkeyboards are backlight and start at 150 and you can customize eveyrthing keycaps keycap type led colors switch colors etc


So it boils down to DAS good keyboard solid construction, shiny keys, no BL/no macros 140 bucks,
Wasd same as filco and das high level of customization for keycap colors for $155/$180 if i get orings.
Filco no frills solid construction i can get from ncix for 150 bucks,  but i worry about support these being from japan while i live in usa.
Ducky lol I can't find these anywhere in brown switches with blue or white or green leds. The ones I do find are brown or yellow LED and if im going to pay 150+ for a keyboard i'd like to be able to get the color I like.Instead of whats left and i worry about customer support being in USA when the products from TW.

Or do i chance and get a cheaper keyboard the CM QF pro is the only kind i can find for sale, as the ultimates are sold out everywhere. Pay 100 bucks have cheap looking keys and worry about build quality. Or i have the unknowns which i know little about leopolds or maxkeyboards, or vortexes.

See the more I research the more I doubt myself or the product. I just want a full 104, brown switches, with  good construction, and a decent weight. My current keyboard I hate because i start to type fast and the board wiggles and moves and i have to re adjust it....very annoying. I have income tax its been burning a hole in my pocket LOL thats why its in the bank. So my range is $100-$200 of course importing a ducky from UK and paying $240 seems a bit absurd so lets not even throw stuff like that into the equation.

Sorry for the wall of text, I tend to over think everything. Ty for everyones replies

[Linkbane]

mechanicalkeyboards.com gets restocks of Ducky Shine 3 boards frequently, with fullsize and TKL. Those have excellent quality and cable management (it goes halfway, I actually prefer the TK's all-the-way channels), and pretty cool backlighting modes.

[Darkleaf84]

Ok shorter question, more focus less banter. How is customer service in the US for Filco? How is the build quality? Can someone give me a good review somewhere because the diatect site is really vague about the description of the keyboard. Does it have under the keyboard management if its USB, and if its not USB is it a firm sturdy braided cable connection?

http://www.ncixus.com/products/?sku=70716&vpn=FKBN104M%2FEB2&manufacture=Filco filco 149.99 ncixus free shipping  Yay/Nay? I really can't beat this price as ducky's, G710s after tax and warranty, GIgabyte osmiums, WASD/DAS are all about the same price before shipping and here it is Like a glowing beacon.

[atlas3686]

Well funny enough I've spent the last 2 days looking at forums, websites, wikis, reading some of this websites reviews when i stumbled upon them, watching review videos and searching market places.
I've honestly never used a TKL keybaord I've always used a full size so I'm used to the size and weight on one. Also alot of mmo's I play I do lots of crafting and selling and keep logs of buying/selling, so I use the 10 key as like an accountant would typing with my right hand.

As far as the CM Storm series I was considering The following. The CM QF XT full 104, no back light, no macros leds to show if mod keys were pressed, USB cable removable. The problem is the micro USB portion that connects to the board doesnt have any under the keyboard cable management I worry about it wiggling and messing up the PCB.

The CM QF PRO  full 104, partial backlight, no macros, Red LED's, USB is removable and has a cable management groove under the keyboard I like this. in stock at Newegg/95/tigerdirect99/MK106/amazon 95 ish
The Cm QF ultimate, full 104, full backlighting, no macros, brown switches would be white Led's for backlighting, removable USB and under keyboard management I also like this keyboard. not in stock anywhere

Of course I worry about getting a cheaper keybaord and it failing in a few months also the keycaps look pretty cheap


Ducky TW brand, full 104, full backlighting, no macros, removable USB with underkeyboard cable management grooves, gold plated connectors. 140-150 ish before tax and shipping I can't find these in stock anywhere.

Deck full 108 hassium , full backlighting, Idk if it has macros, and removeable USB cable, and honestly IDK if it has cable grooves underneath, it has double shot PBT keycaps, But its expensive $180 for the keyboard if you can find it in stock, and $20 for a frame that adds a palm rest.

Filco -JP brand, full 104 keybaord, full backlighting, no macros, no backlighting that i see, solid cable, looks to be a solid construction. No frills no lights macros but looks decent amazons out but NCIX has it for $150

DAS- 104, no backlighting, no macros, removeable USB cable, solid weight and construction, I don't like that its shiny keys but i could always get caps Its $139 from das

WASD- 104 no backlignting no macros, Removeable USB cable, solid weight and construction, They use UV coated ABS which is supposed to be more durable idk i've never used them. I like the fact I can totally customize the keys and colors and buy sound dampeners there. $150 with brown switches 155, if i got sound dampeners 180

Theres others I havn't really researched much but i'll list what i know. leopolds which appear to be no frills mech i think are like 110bucks no bl no macros not sure about build quality, maxkeyboards are backlight and start at 150 and you can customize eveyrthing keycaps keycap type led colors switch colors etc


So it boils down to DAS good keyboard solid construction, shiny keys, no BL/no macros 140 bucks,
Wasd same as filco and das high level of customization for keycap colors for $155/$180 if i get orings.
Filco no frills solid construction i can get from ncix for 150 bucks,  but i worry about support these being from japan while i live in usa.
Ducky lol I can't find these anywhere in brown switches with blue or white or green leds. The ones I do find are brown or yellow LED and if im going to pay 150+ for a keyboard i'd like to be able to get the color I like.Instead of whats left and i worry about customer support being in USA when the products from TW.

Or do i chance and get a cheaper keyboard the CM QF pro is the only kind i can find for sale, as the ultimates are sold out everywhere. Pay 100 bucks have cheap looking keys and worry about build quality. Or i have the unknowns which i know little about leopolds or maxkeyboards, or vortexes.

See the more I research the more I doubt myself or the product. I just want a full 104, brown switches, with  good construction, and a decent weight. My current keyboard I hate because i start to type fast and the board wiggles and moves and i have to re adjust it....very annoying. I have income tax its been burning a hole in my pocket LOL thats why its in the bank. So my range is $100-$200 of course importing a ducky from UK and paying $240 seems a bit absurd so lets not even throw stuff like that into the equation.

Sorry for the wall of text, I tend to over think everything. Ty for everyones replies

From the length of your posts and the amount you have learnt I would guess you are the kind of guy who might be sucked down this rabbit hole. If that is true save yourself a lot of time and money and get a topre board. Maybe a fullsize realforce or 87u and mx numpad.

[BlueBär]

From the length of your posts and the amount you have learnt I would guess you are the kind of guy who might be sucked down this rabbit hole. If that is true save yourself a lot of time and money and get a topre board. Maybe a fullsize realforce or 87u and mx numpad.

So according to you, sooner or later a mech enthusiast will get converted to Topre. That is simply wrong.

[mixProtocol]

... The CM QF XT full 104, no back light, no macros leds to show if mod keys were pressed, USB cable removable. The problem is the micro USB portion that connects to the board doesnt have any under the keyboard cable management I worry about it wiggling and messing up the PCB...

I've been looking a the QFXT as well -- from what I can tell, it uses full-size USB (A-type) at both ends (not micro), see this pic.

/mxP

[Darkleaf84]

my bad i thought it was the micro to USB cord, but it still stands i worry about the cable wiggling and messing up the PCB its connected to. As nothings holding the usb in place but the port its plugged into.

Is the Filco a good enough/beefy enough construction? Are the keys good enough or would yall opt to get a full keycap set, and if so from where, and ABS UV coated or PBT?

[Lu_e]

There's also the option of a WASD bare-bones ($100) and you getting your own PBT caps. Would be solid, with US support, and you could get any premium keycaps in any material you liked. WASD keycaps basically come glossy so I don't particularly care for them.

[Darkleaf84]

I'd actually considered it BUT then i'd be paying 125 after shipping for barebones wasd with brown switches and then id have to wait for the keycaps and look mighty stupid at my house when people get the mail...

[Pacifist]

Get a G80-8113

Caps won't wear out that quickly (no matter which model you get)

NKRO

lots of keys, 104+

browns and relatively cheap

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cherry-G80-8113-G80-8113LRDUS-2-120KEY-MULTIBOARD-PS2-Wired-Keyboard-80003808-/230891847837?pt=PCA_Mice_Trackballs&hash=item35c23a009d

$75

lasered PBT (better than most boards on the market except all other forms of PBT, so better than common ABS)

also
http://www.ebay.com/itm/used-Cherry-Keyboard-MX-8100-USB-Credit-Debt-Card-Terminal-POS-Multiboard-G80-/141230270776

marked as used but I doubt it was used much per the description

*should* be browns

DS ABS (thick and high quality)

[Darkleaf84]

ugh.. yeah that ... I don't buy used pc stuff ever and ebay's kinda iffy, I'm just weird like that. When I spend 100+ bucks on something I generally go for warranty or exchange services at purchase just in case something is wrong when i get it home.

[Tony]

Your confusion and wall of text is understandable. There is no keyboard that fits all, so we geekhackers buy a collection of keyboards.

For starters like you, Filco/WASD full/TKL with brown switches are good beginning. If you are low on budget, then a CM QF pro/rapid would be next option.

[Darkleaf84]

I've got enough to buy a new computer, But I've decided I don't need a new computer I need a new keyboard So here I am LOL thats me money wise 100-200 is my range full keyboard 104, brown switches and good build quality, weight i don't want a cheap keyboard that moves everytime i type.... it gets annoying.

[zig_ziglar]

Ducky Zero TKL is a pretty good board notwithstanding the ABS keycaps. I have a Ducky shine 3 and the construction quality of the Zero is the same. Double layer PCB with thick metal plate for switch mounting.

[Darkleaf84]

First off I'm not sure If i'm repeating this or not my stupid keyboard might have posted the message half way ugh its piece of crap...

I can't find Ducky's anywhere I was tempted to get a shine 3 w/brown switches and green LED but the only things I could find was orange LED... which is my least favorite color in life due to previous job required colors....

Money wise I can spend $100-$200(USD) not gonna go $400+ for Korean aluminum custom keyboards I could But I wont. For that money I could get a new MOBO and GPU and probably pizza for me and my brother hah.

Criteria
W/Wo backlighting I don't really care either way/ it doesn't need macros either

104 keys or 108 if it has media I need the # keys on the side I play mmo's where I buy and sell and keep logs of stuff so I use it for spreadsheet/accounting for past/future purchases yeah I'm a little OCD but w/e

Cherry Mx Brown switches I've used them before briefly I like the way they feel

It needs to be a good construction, I'd like it to last years. I mean this cheap POS membrane keyboard has lasted years but I loathe it so......

I want it to be a good weight, I don't want it to move around when I type fast or well try to type fast T_T 70 is probably the best ive done i can't compete I probably have tendonitis from making chainmaille as a hobby for years

So its pretty much boiled down to
DAS KEYBOARD - Model S PRO w/brown mx cherry $139 probably 15-20 shipping would be my guess
WASD - V2 $155 w/brown mx cherry +15 S&H and  $25 more if i want dampeners that or i buy them off ebay or something
FILCO- black Majestouch-2 w/brown mx cherry http://www.ncixus.com/products/?sku=70716&vpn=FKBN104M%2FEB2&manufacture=Filco $149.99 free shipping

That is unless someone throws me another brand i've never heard of that fits the criteria >_>

So basically now it feels like someone walking into a bakery looking at 3 different kinds of cake each is delicious and will make you feel better and shameful but you only have enough money to buy 1.

[zig_ziglar]

Sorry, mate; did not realise Ducky were hard to source there - they're in abundance here in Australia.

With that list and your budget, my opinion is just get the Filco Majestouch 2 and rest assured you've made a good choice. If you can touch type, the novelty of backlighting loses its appeal after a while and you might be like me and realise that the extra cost involved could have been better invested into a higher end keyboard that does not have backlighting.

[Darkleaf84]

yeah its pretty crazy I ended up finding one shine 3 on some UK website I can't remember what one though its long since lost. But converted from GBP to USD + shipping from across the pond to texas it came to about $240 USD for something that retails for abotu $150. So ducky shine's are out of the picture for the time being. But yeah everyone pretty much everywhere in different forums and different languages is raving about FILCO so Maybe I'll give it a shot.

I've always used keyboards with a partial palm rest though, can anyone suggest a good palm rest to buy? Since filco or any of the high end keyboards don't seem to have a palm rest. Also are filco's keycaps good enough or should Invest in some better ones, if so what kind and from where?

[zig_ziglar]

Filco construction quality is second to none in the modern keyboard world. I think a few other manufacturers are on par, if not very close to on par, but Filco has been around for a while and their products are continuing to receive positive reviews from long time owners and newcomers alike.

I personally have 2 Ducky boards and I think they are also of excellent quality. Inversely to yourself, Filcos are uncommon here and the few distributors we do have are therefore able to take advantage of that fact with higher than justifiable pricing. If not for that, I would have a Filco too by now.

I think the Majestouch 2 comes with pad printed ABS keycaps. My advice is to try it out first before purchasing replacement keycaps. The type of keycap is MOSTLY down to preference. PBT and some other keycap printing methods offer better longevity, a different cap texture and possibly a different weight. At the end of the day, the Filco oem keycaps are still likely to last a long, long time before any text begins to wear. If it does, by then you will probably be more well researched on the topic and able to decide for yourself what to replace them with, if at all.

My take on palm rests is that they are an ergonomics hoax. Having your wrist float (or only very lightly resting on the table) is the most reliable way to avoid carpal and ulnar tunnel nerve obstruction. If you definitely prefer a wrist pad, that's fine - there are many generic options on the market. Most of them are designed to match the industry standard length for its given form factor. Ie a Ducky wrist pad should mate up just as well with a Majestouch.

[tbc]

darkleaf, if you don't care about backlight and you want full size, just go for the ducky 9008P series.  they come with thick pbt caps and are available at least some of the time from mechanicalkeyboards.com

[Grendel]

I'd suggest the Filco from that list as well. For rings, check out these.

[Darkleaf84]

I think thats what I'll do actually, is get the filco from ncix and I was just looking on ebay for key rings thanx for the link. I'll wait on getting key caps till I actually get the keyboard and try them out for myself.

One last thing before I sleep, Does the Filco come with a keycap remover tool, and does it have OS or WASD colored keycaps that come with it like some brands do?

[isaske]

I think thats what I'll do actually, is get the filco from ncix and I was just looking on ebay for key rings thanx for the link. I'll wait on getting key caps till I actually get the keyboard and try them out for myself.

One last thing before I sleep, Does the Filco come with a keycap remover tool, and does it have OS or WASD colored keycaps that come with it like some brands do?

It doesn't.
Also, u asked about keycaps. Of course, invest in some new ones, if you have the money. They feel better, be it PBT or ABS, than stock ones.
You can buy colored WASD clusters for filcos at keyboardco.com, where u also get a good amount of filcos in one place.

[isaske]

+ You can buy palm rests here
http://elitekeyboards.com/products.php?sub=access,palm_rests&pid=hm_prlb
Also, they have some on keyboardco.com, but they're wooden. Don't know how you would like it, but here you go;
http://www.keyboardco.com/product/filco-wood-palm-rests.asp

[mrmillsy]

I was pretty similar to yourself I think, OP, just a couple months ago, though I was looking for TKL.

I ended up with the filco MJ2 TKL with red switches ... wish I'd gone for the browns, but other than that I like the Filco.

If I were to do it again [first purchase], I'd probably go for a QF storm for the detachable USB cord, but that's because I don't have a "desktop" as such, I have a couple of docking stations at home (work room and living room) which I move my laptop between - my keyboard is therefore pretty mobile.  If that doesn't apply, I'd definitely recommend the Filco to you.

Despite the shoddy quality of the stabilisers and the inconsistent squeeking of some of the stabilised keys.

[EvillePanda]

Duckies are really hard to find in the US.  They sell out almost as quickly as mechanical keyboards can get them in.  Unless you like blue and black switches.  I'm partial to blues myself, but I like the noise.

[Darkleaf84]

Ordered the filco off ncix for 150 and orings from ebay for 6 bucks, now i play the waiting game T_T.

[Linkbane]

Ordered the filco off ncix for 150 and orings from ebay for 6 bucks, now i play the waiting game T_T.

Congrats on your first mechanical! Many more shall likely follow..

[Darkleaf84]

Yeah I'm hoping it'll get here in time for ESO 5 day head start if not meh. I'm just getting tired of using a membrane keyboard ya gotta bottom the thing out to even get a key register. I'm hoping the browns on the MJ 2 will be a better typing experience. The O rings I ordered off ebay were http://www.ebay.com/itm/201017130171 I mean hell they were only like $6.50 for 125. As where any other website wanted like $25 for a set of 104. I'll be sure to update this when I get the keyboard i'll add pics.

[zig_ziglar]

Ordered the filco off ncix for 150 and orings from ebay for 6 bucks, now i play the waiting game T_T.

Congrats on your first mechanical! Many more shall likely follow..

I recommend giving it a week before you put the o-rings on. It took me months before I decided to take mine off and regretted I hadn't done it sooner.

[Hordak]

I recommend giving it a week before you put the o-rings on. It took me months before I decided to take mine off and regretted I hadn't done it sooner.

+1, o-rings (or landings pads) toatlly kill my type-flow. You have to experience stock for a while first, so you can judge for yourself.

[zig_ziglar]

I recommend giving it a week before you put the o-rings on. It took me months before I decided to take mine off and regretted I hadn't done it sooner.

+1, o-rings (or landings pads) toatlly kill my type-flow. You have to experience stock for a while first, so you can judge for yourself.

Depends on the switch, but with browns I found that I needed the extra travel distance in order to decelerate and avoid bottoming out. It is not inherently horrible to bottom out, but personally I find it slows me down. A part of the reason I'm faster on browns that blues is that the abrupt collision of the upper and lower sections of the switch (ie the tactile click) creates a force that I find difficult to decelerate before bottoming out. That being said, I am more accurate on blues and the multi-sensory tactility is quite therapeutic.

[Darkleaf84]

Well from what i've read and heard blues are really freaking loud, and browns not as bad. BUT /shame lives with parents, my rooms next to theirs I'm a night owl, I do not wish to wake the dead. So I got browns and I'm unsure as to how loud the MJ2 is so I have O rings on order just in case. 6 bucks for Orings from ebay vs 25 from other sites is a pretty big difference once you figure in shipping. /waits impatiently for my filco.

[zig_ziglar]

Well from what i've read and heard blues are really freaking loud, and browns not as bad. BUT /shame lives with parents, my rooms next to theirs I'm a night owl, I do not wish to wake the dead. So I got browns and I'm unsure as to how loud the MJ2 is so I have O rings on order just in case. 6 bucks for Orings from ebay vs 25 from other sites is a pretty big difference once you figure in shipping. /waits impatiently for my filco.

As you can see in this image, blue switches (and green) have a two part stem. The top section collides with the bottom at the actuation point creating an audible "click".



Browns have a single piece stem, and if you compare the bump profile the brown bump is quite subtle. That being said, the noise from bottoming out switches will be the same from one switch to the next, given everything else is the same. O-rings on my browns DID reduce the total noise output. It literally dampens the sound and reduces the amount of treble, but yeah. Horses for courses.

[rowdy]

Well from what i've read and heard blues are really freaking loud, and browns not as bad. BUT /shame lives with parents, my rooms next to theirs I'm a night owl, I do not wish to wake the dead. So I got browns and I'm unsure as to how loud the MJ2 is so I have O rings on order just in case. 6 bucks for Orings from ebay vs 25 from other sites is a pretty big difference once you figure in shipping. /waits impatiently for my filco.

You'll get most noise from bottoming out, not the click of the switches.  O-rings will help with that.

[BlueBär]

You'll get most noise from bottoming out, not the click of the switches.  O-rings will help with that.

The click is still rather loud, but I think the main problem is that it is so high pitched and afaik human ears are more sensitive to high pitched noises.

[zig_ziglar]

You'll get most noise from bottoming out, not the click of the switches.  O-rings will help with that.

The click is still rather loud, but I think the main problem is that it is so high pitched and afaik human ears are more sensitive to high pitched noises.

This. Also the split second between the tactile click and the bottom out sound, cascades together and compounds the total volume. Well from what my ears can tell. The click may not be "as loud" as bottoming out, but it's a sound that is a lot more difficult to ignore and tends to piss people off - at least that's the feedback I get at work lol