Author Topic: Need some halp from ze Gurus  (Read 1716 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline Starbly

  • Thread Starter
  • Posts: 4
Need some halp from ze Gurus
« on: Tue, 06 May 2014, 00:33:56 »
Hello my fellow KB enthusiasts.

My name is Alex, i come from Greece and i am new to GH community. Since most of you have been here ages (literally) and have an admirable amount of knowledge when it comes to boards . So my wannts/needs are :
  • Tenkeyless whether backlit or not doesnt particularly concern me.
  • be quite silent

I am thinking about WASD v2, Filco  MJt2, ducky g2pro
please give me some feedback about em if possible since i dont know which one to pick.

thank you all in advance for reading this.
Best regards.

Offline minho

  • Posts: 490
  • Location: United States
  • i'm kind of back
Re: Need some halp from ze Gurus
« Reply #1 on: Tue, 06 May 2014, 00:41:44 »
Honestly, which key board you get out of those you get just kind of depends on how much you're willing to spend and of you want custom keycaps from the WASD or not. If you don't plan on modding the keyboard internally (such as swapping out switches or something else that involves solderong), build quality differences among those keyboards will not affect you greatly.

Offline Starbly

  • Thread Starter
  • Posts: 4
Re: Need some halp from ze Gurus
« Reply #2 on: Tue, 06 May 2014, 00:54:40 »
well mechanical KBs are a huge leap for me considering i am using a 9,99 euro logitech internet keyboard for the past 6.5 years. i am quite emotionally attached to my peripherals overall (therefore the extensive use of my current board). but since it has been dying off for the past 3-4 months ( missing keystrokes, sticky clicking and keycaps wearing hugely off) i think i need an upgrade considering my steelseries sensei frost blue will be arriving shortly.

Ideally i would not like to spend more than 150 euros at the moment since i dont have the luxury to.

Offline kohi

  • Posts: 284
Re: Need some halp from ze Gurus
« Reply #3 on: Tue, 06 May 2014, 03:46:48 »
as for the silent criteria - you might want to look into linear switches (red/black) or maybe even browns/clears (if you want a tactile switch). but to be honest, the mech board will be loud compared to the membrane keyboard you're using right now because of bottoming out. I guess you could buy o-rings to dampen the sound, but it's up to you.

Offline sth

  • 2 girls 1 cuprubber
  • Posts: 3438
Re: Need some halp from ze Gurus
« Reply #4 on: Tue, 06 May 2014, 03:50:13 »
used silenced topre RF 87?
11:48 -!- SmallFry [~SmallFry@unaffiliated/smallfry] has quit [Ping timeout: 245 seconds] ... rest in peace

Offline Starbly

  • Thread Starter
  • Posts: 4
Re: Need some halp from ze Gurus
« Reply #5 on: Tue, 06 May 2014, 04:35:49 »
used silenced topre RF 87?

no i havent because it is not available in my country sadly. i have heard best words for it and i kinda searched for keysound youtube vids for it. after hearing that keyboard, i thought it is ideal for my taste but its too damn expensive which kinda scares me and drives me away from it  :(

Offline Oobly

  • * Esteemed Elder
  • Posts: 3929
  • Location: Finland
Re: Need some halp from ze Gurus
« Reply #6 on: Tue, 06 May 2014, 04:46:50 »
A CoolerMaster Storm QuickFire Rapid with Red or Brown or Blue switches will probably be the best value-for-money and easy-to-find board for you. The quality is good, plate mounted Cherry MX switches in a TKL layout, removable cable. The WASD, Filco and Ducky are all slightly higher quality, but not by much. They are all great boards.

The Red switches are linear, which means they have no tactile bump during the press, just a smooth increase in force. Browns have a small tactile bump so you know when the switch activates. Blues have a tactile bump and a high pitched "click" when the switch activates, but the reset point is higher up than the activation point (called hysteresis), which means they are slower to press repeatedly than Reds and Browns since you have to lift higher before pressing again. That's why Blues are often not recommended for gaming, but they feel nice to type on due to the tactile bump and click sound. I recommend Browns for a first mechanical board since they have the tactile bump which helps prevent accidental presses and missed presses (which are easier to do with Reds) and are quieter than Blues.

Add some orings if you want it to be more silent. Thick, dense keycaps also help reduce the sound (POM is densest, then PBT, then ABS), largely by lowering the pitch. If you don't mind opening up switches (which usually requires desoldering them) there are more advanced silencing mods that can be done (trampoline and latex mod).
Buying more keycaps,
it really hacks my wallet,
but I must have them.

Offline Defect

  • Posts: 670
  • I collect keyboards and keyboard accessories
Re: Need some halp from ze Gurus
« Reply #7 on: Tue, 06 May 2014, 05:34:59 »
Unsure how prices are for you in Greece, but around here I have a really easy time recommending the QFR (CM Quickfire Rapid) as a starting TKL.  Great bang for your buck.  You get what you need, no fancy unnecessary stuff and the board is very very solid (especially for an entry level board).  People often compare QFR to Filco.  Obviously, Filco is better buildquality, but you're also paying double for a board.  Personally, I'd rather have 2 QFR and mod them instead of 1 Filco.  But that's just me.  YMMV :)

If you want lighting effects, get a Ducky and don't look back.

The quietness of the board depends on:
1. What switches?  Blues are loud and clicky, browns and clears have a small bump (produced small scratchy noise), and red/black are linear and silent.

2. Do you bottom out?  Cherry MX switches actuate/register about half way through the key press.  On my current board with 62g lubed blacks I am completely silent since I don't bottom out (unless gaming).  I only hear noise from the stabilizers on my spacebar and the occasional bottom out clack.

3. The keycaps. Different keycap materials/profiles/thickness will change the sound your board produces.  Thinner is generally higher pitch noises.

4. Board (Case/Plate).  I do not know much about acoustics so it will be hard to describe this.  Different boards sound different based on materials etc.

I may be missing some points.  Others may be able to help.


PM me if you have questions about stems and springs and finding the right switch for you.  :)


Edit: If you can justify the price, I'd just get the Filco and swap its caps out.  Only bad thing I've heard about Filco's is their stock ABS caps suck and their cases may have a small pinging issue (ping meaning noise from plate/case).  Others can provide their input on this.
« Last Edit: Tue, 06 May 2014, 05:36:56 by Defect »

Not pictured: KeyCool 84 [MX Red] | Focus 2001 [Complicated White Alps]
Endgame Board | Defect's Watermelon Board Build Doc

Offline BlueBär

  • Posts: 2231
  • Location: Germany, SB
Re: Need some halp from ze Gurus
« Reply #8 on: Tue, 06 May 2014, 09:00:15 »
I only hear noise from the stabilizers on my spacebar and the occasional bottom out clack.

Have you lubed your stabilizers? Would recommend it ;)

Offline Defect

  • Posts: 670
  • I collect keyboards and keyboard accessories
Re: Need some halp from ze Gurus
« Reply #9 on: Tue, 06 May 2014, 09:21:53 »
I only hear noise from the stabilizers on my spacebar and the occasional bottom out clack.

Have you lubed your stabilizers? Would recommend it ;)

Not on the choc mini, no.  It's at the bottom of a to do list.  May just order silicone grease cause I'm too lazy to run to the auto shop.

Not pictured: KeyCool 84 [MX Red] | Focus 2001 [Complicated White Alps]
Endgame Board | Defect's Watermelon Board Build Doc

Offline Starbly

  • Thread Starter
  • Posts: 4
Re: Need some halp from ze Gurus
« Reply #10 on: Tue, 06 May 2014, 14:20:47 »
woot about the keycool 87 ?

Offline minho

  • Posts: 490
  • Location: United States
  • i'm kind of back
Re: Need some halp from ze Gurus
« Reply #11 on: Tue, 06 May 2014, 19:43:29 »
woot about the keycool 87 ?

Heard great things about the Keycool 84, don't see why the 87 would be bad. Although I think their second generation (Keycool 87 II) doesn't use Cherry switches, but clones instead (not 100% sure about this), so that's quite a bit of a turn off, at least for me.

Offline rowdy

  • HHKB Hapster
  • * Erudite Elder
  • Posts: 21175
  • Location: melbourne.vic.au
  • Missed another sale.
Re: Need some halp from ze Gurus
« Reply #12 on: Tue, 06 May 2014, 19:46:30 »
There are reviews of both here on GH.

I have KeyCool 87 (probably the first generation) - it is fine, no problems at all.
"Because keyboards are accessories to PC makers, they focus on minimizing the manufacturing costs. But that’s incorrect. It’s in HHKB’s slogan, but when America’s cowboys were in the middle of a trip and their horse died, they would leave the horse there. But even if they were in the middle of a desert, they would take their saddle with them. The horse was a consumable good, but the saddle was an interface that their bodies had gotten used to. In the same vein, PCs are consumable goods, while keyboards are important interfaces." - Eiiti Wada

NEC APC-H4100E | Ducky DK9008 Shine MX blue LED red | Ducky DK9008 Shine MX blue LED green | Link 900243-08 | CM QFR MX black | KeyCool 87 white MX reds | HHKB 2 Pro | Model M 02-Mar-1993 | Model M 29-Nov-1995 | CM Trigger (broken) | CM QFS MX green | Ducky DK9087 Shine 3 TKL Yellow Edition MX black | Lexmark SSK 21-Apr-1994 | IBM SSK 13-Oct-1987 | CODE TKL MX clear | Model M 122 01-Jun-1988

Ị̸͚̯̲́ͤ̃͑̇̑ͯ̊̂͟ͅs̞͚̩͉̝̪̲͗͊ͪ̽̚̚ ̭̦͖͕̑́͌ͬͩ͟t̷̻͔̙̑͟h̹̠̼͋ͤ͋i̤̜̣̦̱̫͈͔̞ͭ͑ͥ̌̔s̬͔͎̍̈ͥͫ̐̾ͣ̔̇͘ͅ ̩̘̼͆̐̕e̞̰͓̲̺̎͐̏ͬ̓̅̾͠͝ͅv̶̰͕̱̞̥̍ͣ̄̕e͕͙͖̬̜͓͎̤̊ͭ͐͝ṇ̰͎̱̤̟̭ͫ͌̌͢͠ͅ ̳̥̦ͮ̐ͤ̎̊ͣ͡͡n̤̜̙̺̪̒͜e̶̻̦̿ͮ̂̀c̝̘̝͖̠̖͐ͨͪ̈̐͌ͩ̀e̷̥͇̋ͦs̢̡̤ͤͤͯ͜s͈̠̉̑͘a̱͕̗͖̳̥̺ͬͦͧ͆̌̑͡r̶̟̖̈͘ỷ̮̦̩͙͔ͫ̾ͬ̔ͬͮ̌?̵̘͇͔͙ͥͪ͞ͅ