Best way to get a poker with clears?

[slickmamba]

So I have been wanting to get a Poker II for a while now, but would like to get clears in them.  And obviously can't find anyone that stocks them.  Is replacing switches from a plate that much harder than from the board?  I think I may just get the 110 switches from mechanicalkeyboards and doing it myself, along with an LED mod and probably stickers.

[SpAmRaY]

You will have to desolder the original switches and solder in the new switches along with the LED's. I don't think you will see any noticeable difference using stickers since the poker II has a plate but that just my opinion.

[Yslen]

Swapping the switches isn't too bad, with  decent solder sucker it'll take a hour or so. Adding LEDs is a nightmare without a fancy desoldering pump, as you have to get the miniscule amount of solder out of the otherwise empty holes first.

[slickmamba]

Cool, I have all of the solder and desolder tools.  Now to figure out which springs to order.  I posted on the free stuff so hopefully there is a clear tester going around somewhere!

[Oobly]

Swapping the switches isn't too bad, with  decent solder sucker it'll take a hour or so. Adding LEDs is a nightmare without a fancy desoldering pump, as you have to get the miniscule amount of solder out of the otherwise empty holes first.

A trick I used when replacing the LED's on my Pure: You don't need to remove the solder in the holes. Trim the LED leads to the right length before you install them. Then place it in position in the switch, you can find the little holes in the bottom of the switch for the leads by feel. Keeping some pressure on the LED, apply a soldering iron with a little solder on the tip to both contacts of the LED at the same time. The solder that is in the holes will melt and the LED will sit down into position with the leads just poking through the board. After I put all the LEDs on the board I reflowed all the joints with a tinned iron just to make sure they were "wet".

The tricky part is cutting the leads to the right length. I used the old LED's as a reference, but you can judge it by eye for the first one and then adjust longer / shorter as needed. Having the right length leads prevents the lead from "wicking" the solder out the hole as it goes through and reduces the chances of a "dry" joint.

If you want to add stickers / change springs, etc. you have to do it while the switch is loose (not soldered to the board) since the plate prevents the switch from being opened. Unless you mod the plate by adding little gaps for the switch tabs on every hole, but that's a LOT of work. Would make it easier for modding the switches later, though. See here: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=53722.0

Or you can replace the plate with a custom one that has the little gaps already. IMSTO has some aluminium ones made by Hammer in his store: http://imsto.cn/index.php?route=product/product&path=63&product_id=67

[slickmamba]

Swapping the switches isn't too bad, with  decent solder sucker it'll take a hour or so. Adding LEDs is a nightmare without a fancy desoldering pump, as you have to get the miniscule amount of solder out of the otherwise empty holes first.

A trick I used when replacing the LED's on my Pure: You don't need to remove the solder in the holes. Trim the LED leads to the right length before you install them. Then place it in position in the switch, you can find the little holes in the bottom of the switch for the leads by feel. Keeping some pressure on the LED, apply a soldering iron with a little solder on the tip to both contacts of the LED at the same time. The solder that is in the holes will melt and the LED will sit down into position with the leads just poking through the board. After I put all the LEDs on the board I reflowed all the joints with a tinned iron just to make sure they were "wet".

The tricky part is cutting the leads to the right length. I used the old LED's as a reference, but you can judge it by eye for the first one and then adjust longer / shorter as needed. Having the right length leads prevents the lead from "wicking" the solder out the hole as it goes through and reduces the chances of a "dry" joint.

If you want to add stickers / change springs, etc. you have to do it while the switch is loose (not soldered to the board) since the plate prevents the switch from being opened. Unless you mod the plate by adding little gaps for the switch tabs on every hole, but that's a LOT of work. Would make it easier for modding the switches later, though. See here: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=53722.0

Or you can replace the plate with a custom one that has the little gaps already. IMSTO has some aluminium ones made by Hammer in his store: http://imsto.cn/index.php?route=product/product&path=63&product_id=67

Thanks!  That is really good advice.  As for adding springs and stickers, I haven't ordered the clear switches yet, so I will be able to mod and sticker them before installing.  I will need to remove the original switches anyway.

Hmm, those imsto plates are only $30, pretty tempting haha

[feizor]

Please double check with imsto if the plates work with poker II. The space bar stabilizer orientation looks different.

[Oobly]

Please double check with imsto if the plates work with poker II. The space bar stabilizer orientation looks different.

The Poker stabiliser bar sits below the plate, so it should fit just fine:



The right hand LED may be a problem, though.

[daerid]

Is it possible to put WASD Costar-style stabilizers on the poker II?

[SpAmRaY]

Please double check with imsto if the plates work with poker II. The space bar stabilizer orientation looks different.

The Poker stabiliser bar sits below the plate, so it should fit just fine:

Show Image

The right hand LED may be a problem, though.

I don't believe the imsto plates have cut out holes for the onboard LEDs.

[Razor Lotus]

Agree with first post.

Easiest way to get them with clears is to swop out the switches yourself. Or pay someone to do it for you. But it's more fun doing it yourself

[Quardah]

Is it possible to put WASD Costar-style stabilizers on the poker II?

I believe it's already Costar-style when you buy them but i am not sure i do not have my Poker II with me at the job.

Please someone confirm this.

[Yslen]

They're Cherry stabs as stock.

[Quardah]

They're Cherry stabs as stock.

Thanks homie

[Xowie]

Swapping the switches isn't too bad, with  decent solder sucker it'll take a hour or so. Adding LEDs is a nightmare without a fancy desoldering pump, as you have to get the miniscule amount of solder out of the otherwise empty holes first.

A trick I used when replacing the LED's on my Pure: You don't need to remove the solder in the holes. Trim the LED leads to the right length before you install them. Then place it in position in the switch, you can find the little holes in the bottom of the switch for the leads by feel. Keeping some pressure on the LED, apply a soldering iron with a little solder on the tip to both contacts of the LED at the same time. The solder that is in the holes will melt and the LED will sit down into position with the leads just poking through the board. After I put all the LEDs on the board I reflowed all the joints with a tinned iron just to make sure they were "wet".

The tricky part is cutting the leads to the right length. I used the old LED's as a reference, but you can judge it by eye for the first one and then adjust longer / shorter as needed. Having the right length leads prevents the lead from "wicking" the solder out the hole as it goes through and reduces the chances of a "dry" joint.

If you want to add stickers / change springs, etc. you have to do it while the switch is loose (not soldered to the board) since the plate prevents the switch from being opened. Unless you mod the plate by adding little gaps for the switch tabs on every hole, but that's a LOT of work. Would make it easier for modding the switches later, though. See here: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=53722.0

Or you can replace the plate with a custom one that has the little gaps already. IMSTO has some aluminium ones made by Hammer in his store: http://imsto.cn/index.php?route=product/product&path=63&product_id=67

Thanks for posting this! I also am thinking about buying a poker and swapping out the switches and this looks like it will be of great help!

[Quardah]

Swapping the switches isn't too bad, with  decent solder sucker it'll take a hour or so. Adding LEDs is a nightmare without a fancy desoldering pump, as you have to get the miniscule amount of solder out of the otherwise empty holes first.

A trick I used when replacing the LED's on my Pure: You don't need to remove the solder in the holes. Trim the LED leads to the right length before you install them. Then place it in position in the switch, you can find the little holes in the bottom of the switch for the leads by feel. Keeping some pressure on the LED, apply a soldering iron with a little solder on the tip to both contacts of the LED at the same time. The solder that is in the holes will melt and the LED will sit down into position with the leads just poking through the board. After I put all the LEDs on the board I reflowed all the joints with a tinned iron just to make sure they were "wet".

The tricky part is cutting the leads to the right length. I used the old LED's as a reference, but you can judge it by eye for the first one and then adjust longer / shorter as needed. Having the right length leads prevents the lead from "wicking" the solder out the hole as it goes through and reduces the chances of a "dry" joint.

If you want to add stickers / change springs, etc. you have to do it while the switch is loose (not soldered to the board) since the plate prevents the switch from being opened. Unless you mod the plate by adding little gaps for the switch tabs on every hole, but that's a LOT of work. Would make it easier for modding the switches later, though. See here: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=53722.0

Or you can replace the plate with a custom one that has the little gaps already. IMSTO has some aluminium ones made by Hammer in his store: http://imsto.cn/index.php?route=product/product&path=63&product_id=67

Thanks for posting this! I also am thinking about buying a poker and swapping out the switches and this looks like it will be of great help!

Yes please someone archive this post.

It's a very interesting contribution in a normal thread. I strongly believe some people could make good use of such information.

[Razor Lotus]

I just used this method and a fork to change the red switch on my spacebar to a black one. Maybe this could work for you?

[feizor]

Swapping the switches isn't too bad, with  decent solder sucker it'll take a hour or so. Adding LEDs is a nightmare without a fancy desoldering pump, as you have to get the miniscule amount of solder out of the otherwise empty holes first.

A trick I used when replacing the LED's on my Pure: You don't need to remove the solder in the holes. Trim the LED leads to the right length before you install them. Then place it in position in the switch, you can find the little holes in the bottom of the switch for the leads by feel. Keeping some pressure on the LED, apply a soldering iron with a little solder on the tip to both contacts of the LED at the same time. The solder that is in the holes will melt and the LED will sit down into position with the leads just poking through the board. After I put all the LEDs on the board I reflowed all the joints with a tinned iron just to make sure they were "wet".

The tricky part is cutting the leads to the right length. I used the old LED's as a reference, but you can judge it by eye for the first one and then adjust longer / shorter as needed. Having the right length leads prevents the lead from "wicking" the solder out the hole as it goes through and reduces the chances of a "dry" joint.

If you want to add stickers / change springs, etc. you have to do it while the switch is loose (not soldered to the board) since the plate prevents the switch from being opened. Unless you mod the plate by adding little gaps for the switch tabs on every hole, but that's a LOT of work. Would make it easier for modding the switches later, though. See here: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=53722.0

Or you can replace the plate with a custom one that has the little gaps already. IMSTO has some aluminium ones made by Hammer in his store: http://imsto.cn/index.php?route=product/product&path=63&product_id=67

Wish I read about your method before desoldering everything haha. Those suckers are hard to desolder, even melted off a pad and had to hand wire it to the trace.

[Rafen]

Swapping switches on the Poker is actually really easy. Swapped mine from reds to browns and after a couple switches I got the hang of it and it was super easy. Buy a soldering station and a good solder sucker, this will make it super easy. I think I spent $60 total to get the soldering supplies.

[feizor]

I'm using a hako station but cheapo $2 solder suckers, should really invest in a good one.

[gir489]

I got this on Thursday: http://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=95

It's absolutely amazing. No plate to cause pinging. MX Clears. Shaped like the IBM Model M, with the incline, so I didn't really have to adjust to a new feel of a keyboard.

One of the things other people around me complained about, is the spacebar makes like this weird boop noise? I ****ing love it. But other people said it made it more obvious when I hit the space bar as opposed to other keyboards and that it was distracting to them.

I love it though, and the MX Clears completely poop on the MX Browns. That extra length in the bump is very noticeable when playing games. Not so much when typing, they both feel the same when typing, although I type so fast, it'd be impossible to notice that kind of bump. When gaming, I totally feel the difference. The browns have a more subtle bump, where as the MX Clears have a more noticeable bump. I didn't notice much of a difference between the MX Browns and the MX Clears in terms of resistance. But, I'm using the the Model M buckling springs, but I'm a very heavy-handed typer, so I wouldn't notice much of anything less than 80g of resistance. The Reds/Blacks/Browns/Blue/Clear all felt the same to me in terms of resistance.

They're currently out of stock of it, because I bought the last one, but I'm sure you could find it elsewhere online, or try contacting the MFR.

Not many MFRs use the Clears, because they're rare. http://deskthority.net/wiki/Cherry_MX_Clear There's like 4 total keyboards on there that are still in production.

Most people would rather settle for the Browns, because of the lighter spring and less bump.

[feizor]

I got this on Thursday: http://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=95

It's absolutely amazing. No plate to cause pinging. MX Clears. Shaped like the IBM Model M, with the incline, so I didn't really have to adjust to a new feel of a keyboard.

One of the things other people around me complained about, is the spacebar makes like this weird boop noise? I ****ing love it. But other people said it made it more obvious when I hit the space bar as opposed to other keyboards and that it was distracting to them.

I love it though, and the MX Clears completely poop on the MX Browns. That extra length in the bump is very noticeable when playing games. Not so much when typing, they both feel the same when typing, although I type so fast, it'd be impossible to notice that kind of bump. When gaming, I totally feel the difference. The browns have a more subtle bump, where as the MX Clears have a more noticeable bump. I didn't notice much of a difference between the MX Browns and the MX Clears in terms of resistance. But, I'm using the the Model M buckling springs, but I'm a very heavy-handed typer, so I wouldn't notice much of anything less than 80g of resistance. The Reds/Blacks/Browns/Blue/Clear all felt the same to me in terms of resistance.

They're currently out of stock of it, because I bought the last one, but I'm sure you could find it elsewhere online, or try contacting the MFR.

Not many MFRs use the Clears, because they're rare. http://deskthority.net/wiki/Cherry_MX_Clear There's like 4 total keyboards on there that are still in production.

Most people would rather settle for the Browns, because of the lighter spring and less bump.

If only that came in a tkl.

[SpAmRaY]

I just used this method and a fork to change the red switch on my spacebar to a black one. Maybe this could work for you?

The poker 2 is plate mounted that video is of a PCB mounted keyboard.

[Razor Lotus]

I just used this method and a fork to change the red switch on my spacebar to a black one. Maybe this could work for you?

The poker 2 is plate mounted that video is of a PCB mounted keyboard.

Oh yes you're right.

totally slipped my mind on that post. Thanks for correcting me

[Pacifist]

Swapping the switches isn't too bad, with  decent solder sucker it'll take a hour or so. Adding LEDs is a nightmare without a fancy desoldering pump, as you have to get the miniscule amount of solder out of the otherwise empty holes first.

But if he just gets a non LED version he has nothing to worry about.
Plus I use the $15 radioshack desoldering pump and I can desolder LEDs quite easily. You just need to let it sit on top for a few seconds then suck.

[sulonen]

So I have been wanting to get a Poker II for a while now, but would like to get clears in them.  And obviously can't find anyone that stocks them.  Is replacing switches from a plate that much harder than from the board?  I think I may just get the 110 switches from mechanicalkeyboards and doing it myself, along with an LED mod and probably stickers.

I did just that. I didn't want to mess with the smd resistors, so I just did an LED test to find the brightest/most comfortable replacement LEDs for me:
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=35152.msg1325298#msg1325298

[gir489]

I got this on Thursday: http://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=95

It's absolutely amazing. No plate to cause pinging. MX Clears. Shaped like the IBM Model M, with the incline, so I didn't really have to adjust to a new feel of a keyboard.

One of the things other people around me complained about, is the spacebar makes like this weird boop noise? I ****ing love it. But other people said it made it more obvious when I hit the space bar as opposed to other keyboards and that it was distracting to them.

I love it though, and the MX Clears completely poop on the MX Browns. That extra length in the bump is very noticeable when playing games. Not so much when typing, they both feel the same when typing, although I type so fast, it'd be impossible to notice that kind of bump. When gaming, I totally feel the difference. The browns have a more subtle bump, where as the MX Clears have a more noticeable bump. I didn't notice much of a difference between the MX Browns and the MX Clears in terms of resistance. But, I'm using the the Model M buckling springs, but I'm a very heavy-handed typer, so I wouldn't notice much of anything less than 80g of resistance. The Reds/Blacks/Browns/Blue/Clear all felt the same to me in terms of resistance.

They're currently out of stock of it, because I bought the last one, but I'm sure you could find it elsewhere online, or try contacting the MFR.

Not many MFRs use the Clears, because they're rare. http://deskthority.net/wiki/Cherry_MX_Clear There's like 4 total keyboards on there that are still in production.

Most people would rather settle for the Browns, because of the lighter spring and less bump.

If only that came in a tkl.

I don't see why that's a bad thing. I can't live without the numberpad.

[slickmamba]

So I have been wanting to get a Poker II for a while now, but would like to get clears in them.  And obviously can't find anyone that stocks them.  Is replacing switches from a plate that much harder than from the board?  I think I may just get the 110 switches from mechanicalkeyboards and doing it myself, along with an LED mod and probably stickers.

I did just that. I didn't want to mess with the smd resistors, so I just did an LED test to find the brightest/most comfortable replacement LEDs for me:
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=35152.msg1325298#msg1325298

cool, I will order the rectangular LEDs.  ty!

[slickmamba]

Swapping the switches isn't too bad, with  decent solder sucker it'll take a hour or so. Adding LEDs is a nightmare without a fancy desoldering pump, as you have to get the miniscule amount of solder out of the otherwise empty holes first.

But if he just gets a non LED version he has nothing to worry about.
Plus I use the $15 radioshack desoldering pump and I can desolder LEDs quite easily. You just need to let it sit on top for a few seconds then suck.

Yeah, I plan to get the non-led version for the PBT caps.  Unless the (ABS?) ones that come on the LED version are decent.

[Oobly]

It's a balance between the hassle of installing LED's vs having better caps. The PBT caps are very good, thick and solid. I'd say that for most people (who can solder) it's more worthwhile getting the non-backlit one with PBT caps and adding the LED's yourself. You get a great feeling board and you can choose what colour LED's you want.

Personally, I can't go back to thin ABS OEM profile caps. They make almost any board feel cheap, IMHO. Thick PBT and POM on the other hand can make almost any board feel premium and high quality.

[feizor]

I can't really justify the cost of buying and shipping 100 clear switches then removing and wasting the stock switches. No poin selling the removed switches because it would cost more to ship them than what I can get for them.

[slickmamba]

I just realized that the clear mx at mechanicalkeyboards.com are PCB mount.  Will it make a difference if I install it on on the poker II plate?  Do I just cut off the extra stuff?

[sulonen]

I just realized that the clear mx at mechanicalkeyboards.com are PCB mount.  Will it make a difference if I install it on on the poker II plate?  Do I just cut off the extra stuff?

I got mine from there too - they had both PCB and plate mount available. Double check the list?

[slickmamba]

I just realized that the clear mx at mechanicalkeyboards.com are PCB mount.  Will it make a difference if I install it on on the poker II plate?  Do I just cut off the extra stuff?

I got mine from there too - they had both PCB and plate mount available. Double check the list?

Ahh, completely right... I just had the PCB one saved and thought they were the only ones.... There is a set of 100 on classified right now for 35 and I'm considering getting those.  Would putting the PCB mount on a plate be significant?

[Defect]

I just realized that the clear mx at mechanicalkeyboards.com are PCB mount.  Will it make a difference if I install it on on the poker II plate?  Do I just cut off the extra stuff?

Just clip the legs and you'll be fine.

[Findecanor]

Massdrop is getting the Poker II with MX Clears: Topic.

Edit: No they are not available. Option is greyed out... What the...

[Razor Lotus]

Either they removed that option or they sold out really quickly.

Then again I've never seen any poker 2 keyboards come with clears as a stock option

[Quardah]

Either they removed that option or they sold out really quickly.

Then again I've never seen any poker 2 keyboards come with clears as a stock option

Yeah that's a shame the current standard MX are still Black Blue Brown Red while people are mostly considering newly popular MX like clears or greens. In my opinion boards that offers six MX choices are doing it right.

I'll have to mod my Poker this summer which is pretty lame considering i'll have to waste those still-good browns.

[slickmamba]

Yeah, the mods posted in the discussion saying that it was an error and they never had clear mx stock.  Does anyone know if the pbt on the white and black(grey) version are the same thickness?

[Quardah]

Yeah, the mods posted in the discussion saying that it was an error and they never had clear mx stock.  Does anyone know if the pbt on the white and black(grey) version are the same thickness?

Yes they are the same thickness, it's the same set using different colors.

[Razor Lotus]

Either they removed that option or they sold out really quickly.

Then again I've never seen any poker 2 keyboards come with clears as a stock option

Yeah that's a shame the current standard MX are still Black Blue Brown Red while people are mostly considering newly popular MX like clears or greens. In my opinion boards that offers six MX choices are doing it right.

I'll have to mod my Poker this summer which is pretty lame considering i'll have to waste those still-good browns.

Well seeing that browns are generally regarded as the worst mx switch, just think of it as throwing away the trash or something lol. It's not as though its something like blacks or blues where it would be a waste taking them out hahah

[Pacifist]

Either they removed that option or they sold out really quickly.

Then again I've never seen any poker 2 keyboards come with clears as a stock option

Yeah that's a shame the current standard MX are still Black Blue Brown Red while people are mostly considering newly popular MX like clears or greens. In my opinion boards that offers six MX choices are doing it right.

I'll have to mod my Poker this summer which is pretty lame considering i'll have to waste those still-good browns.

Well seeing that browns are generally regarded as the worst mx switch, just think of it as throwing away the trash or something lol. It's not as though its something like blacks or blues where it would be a waste taking them out hahah

whut?

[daerid]

Well seeing that browns are generally regarded as the worst mx switch, just think of it as [...]

[Razor Lotus]

Looking at the comments, the mods on massdrop said that they have checked with the vendor and there's no error in saying that the backlit version will come with PBT keycaps...

This is really confusing cause only the non backlit poker comes with PBT keycaps...

Anyone getting in on this?

[Pacifist]

Why do people want a poker II so badly? Wait for something that has better programability

[daerid]

If you look at the comments on MD, they've double checked with their vendor, and the backlit version will definitely be white with PBT caps.

I've ordered one, will let you know what I receive.

[Oobly]

Why do people want a poker II so badly? Wait for something that has better programability

Umm... I guess you must be referring to the GH60, since the Poker 2 is the most programmable commercial board out there. You can completely remap the board in the Pn layer and then assign that as either the main layer or Fn layer through the DIP switches. I guess if you don't like BOTH the main and Fn layers, you have to compromise a bit.

Reasons for wanting a Poker 2:
1. Standard ANSI layout.
2. Fits all 60% cases.
3. Programmable.
4. Plate mounted.
5. Backlit depending on version (and switches are the correct orientation for backlighting).
6. PBT caps depending on version.

I do wish it came with Clears, though.

[Razor Lotus]

If you look at the comments on MD, they've double checked with their vendor, and the backlit version will definitely be white with PBT caps.

I've ordered one, will let you know what I receive.

White with pbt keycaps. Wow looks like something I need to get in on.

I've seen some pictures on taobao and the likes but usually it is a picture for custom white backlit keycaps

[slickmamba]

Hmm if you guys are all getting it on it maybe I should too

[Razor Lotus]

Hmm if you guys are all getting it on it maybe I should too

I think the white with PBT keycaps does not support backlit legends so the light just shines from below the caps.

If you read their latest commend, they're trying to get PBT legends that support backlighting on their next drop but with no promises