Unicomp Vs. Model M vs. Matias

[chuckster]

I've been wanting to explore some non-Cherry mechanical switches for a while, and so I've recently been considering a couple of different options, namely buckling springs in Unicomps or an old IBM Model M or the modified-ALPS type Matias switch in their keyboards.

I had a few questions about these choices and was hoping for a bit of guidance from those more experienced than myself. First off, regarding buckling spring boards, I could save about $20 or so going with a used model M (1391401 of course) if I got lucky, but in the end it's still a used part and I have little guarantee of how used. For this reason, I was leaning toward Unicomp, though I know they're based on the not-so-well-regarded Lexmark IBM. So my first question is: Is the 1391401 far enough above a new Unicomp that it is still the better buy, or is the difference in overall quality and longevity so small that going new will work out to be a better choice in the long term? Also, do you think cleaning is enough of a consideration to steer away from a used IBM?

After that, I was looking at ALPS switches, and after some research I believe the Matias, with its updated design and a quiet option was the best choice here. The difference is that it's also around $50 more expensive than the Unicomp and over 2x the price of a 1391401, so I'm only interested if you guys think its switches are good enough to justify the price. Are the Matias switches lighter than the BS switches? does the higher actuation point help with fast, accurate typing or does it take some getting used to? I like the modern features like the multimedia keys, but those are no deal-breaker either way. Am I missing any key features in my comparisons?

Now here's the kicker--I am in love with the featherweight, linear Cherry MX Red switch. I know from research that none of the above choices are anything like the Cherry Red, being relatively heavy and very tactile (which I don't mind, I've used BS before and really enjoyed it) so are there better options out there for lovers of light, linear switches? I'm no fan of Topre after trying out a friend's Realforce.

[rowdy]

How long did you try Topre for?  Only a few minutes is really not long enough to give you a proper feel for Topre.  Topre 45g is similar weight to MX red, although the feel is quite different.  If you try to persevere with Topre for a week or so, you might find it difficult to switch back to MX.  Or you might not

An older Model M is likely to be PS/2 (or even AT), so you would probably need to factor in the cost of a PS/2 to USB adaptor.

Model M are generally considered to be better than Unicomp - apparently the plastic was changed slightly at some point.  Although older Model M are quite likely to need a bolt mod to rejuvenate them properly.  However if you can find a nice example, you can't really beat an original M (unless you consider Model F).

[Defect]

Model M's are built better than Unicomp's.  But Unicomp's are pretty close in feel to how new Model M's would feel.  I love mine, and the switch feel is great.  I've read that many people prefer it to Model M.  But...that case creak...

If you want to mod, get the Model M.  If you want a plug and play, Unicomp.  Matias I cannot speak to but from the samples I have I really like those switches!  Buckling spring is king of click type though.

[chuckster]

Well, I actually prefer PS/2 to USB, simply because my board supports it, it all but guarantees fewer issues without an adapter (I had a few with the DIN to PS/2 converters I went through for a Fujitsu Peerless-Switch board that was my first foray into mechanicals), fully supports NKRO, and frees up a USB slot. I still worry about issues with a used, corroded, or just plain dirty board. I wouldn't mind an afternoon of general cleaning for my new board, but some of the how-tos in cleaning seem pretty intensive, and I'm not sure I would be up to it.

Speaking about the Model F, price is a barrier. Finding one in good condition is less likely than with an M from what I've seen, and I would have to deal with the non-standard layout and (possibly) finding a XT adapter (I already have a good DIN-to-PS/2, so that's possibly a non-issue). I would greatly prefer a Model F from everything I have read, but I would already be stretching it with the ~$130 Matias.

I'm really getting into vintage boards after this discussion, are there any well-regarded boards a la the Model M that have nice light keys?

As for Topre, I just don't like the feel, it doesn't seem as crisp as other switches, but to be fair, I only fiddled for about a half-hour with it.

[False_Dmitry_II]

The build quality on M's might be better, but only if you don't have too many broken plastic rivets. If you do, you might have to bolt-mod, once done it would be even more solid, but I've never done one because both of my M's are only missing 2-3 rivets tops. The Unicomp shouldn't have anything missing.

Since you've used buckling spring and liked them I suspect you'd be fine with either BS or Matias and possibly both. Matias himself has said that he likes red MX over the others because it's linear and not halfway like the rest of them, but prefers tactile switches - his own.

[dorkvader]

How long did you try Topre for?  Only a few minutes is really not long enough to give you a proper feel for Topre.  Topre 45g is similar weight to MX red, although the feel is quite different.  If you try to persevere with Topre for a week or so, you might find it difficult to switch back to MX.  Or you might not

Then again, I have been using my topre every day for at least a month and my opinion hasn't changed at all, though my co-worker loves using it.

Speaking about the Model F, price is a barrier. Finding one in good condition is less likely than with an M from what I've seen, and I would have to deal with the non-standard layout and (possibly) finding a XT adapter (I already have a good DIN-to-PS/2, so that's possibly a non-issue).

An XT will need some sort of XT to USB converter (hagstrom, soarer, etc.), a DIN to PS/2 cable will not help.

I would recommend finding a used model M for cheaper than a unicomp. Unless it's in really horrible condition, it'll most likely be cheaper and just as nice (or arguably nicer, due to the (possibly) thicker plate, etc.) That said, I've used my unicomp for over a year, and various M's for just as long (if not longer) and both are excellent choices.

[jacobolus]

I had a few questions about these choices and was hoping for a bit of guidance from those more experienced than myself. First off, regarding buckling spring boards, I could save about $20 or so going with a used model M (1391401 of course) if I got lucky, but in the end it's still a used part and I have little guarantee of how used.

If you hunt around on eBay for a week or two, I’m guessing you can get a Model M for about $30 shipped. Most of the ones I’ve seen were in working order, even the ones that were really dirty. (Though sometimes there are broken plastic rivets, as someone mentioned.)

Is the 1391401 far enough above a new Unicomp that it is still the better buy, or is the difference in overall quality and longevity so small that going new will work out to be a better choice in the long term?

I don’t think there’s such a tremendous difference, personally. But they are still using the same molds as 15-20 years ago for the Lexmark produced keyboards, so there has been some degradation.

After that, I was looking at ALPS switches, and after some research I believe the Matias, with its updated design and a quiet option was the best choice here. The difference is that it's also around $50 more expensive than the Unicomp and over 2x the price of a 1391401, so I'm only interested if you guys think its switches are good enough to justify the price.

I really like the switches. You can also find old complicated white Alps boards (very similar to clicky Matias) for pretty cheap. Even as low as $20–25 shipped if you hunt around. But even very good condition ones for $40 pretty easily.

Matias quiet switches are much quieter though, and about as tactile.

Are the Matias switches lighter than the BS switches? does the higher actuation point help with fast, accurate typing or does it take some getting used to?

Yes, they’re a bit lighter than Model M switches. I prefer the high actuation point, all else equal. Some people don’t like it. YMMV.

Now here's the kicker--I am in love with the featherweight, linear Cherry MX Red switch. I know from research that none of the above choices are anything like the Cherry Red, being relatively heavy and very tactile (which I don't mind, I've used BS before and really enjoyed it) so are there better options out there for lovers of light, linear switches?

Green complicated Alps is very nice (I find it much smoother than MX red, and just enough extra firmness to be much more accurate to type on), but hard to find and either pricey or beat up. Linear space invader switches are very nice [very smooth, very solid feeling], though they have somewhat shorter travel than MX switches, can be hard to find, and often come in keyboards with wacky layouts.

[jacobolus]

[whoops]

[dorkvader]

If you hunt around on eBay for a week or two, I’m guessing you can get a Model M for about $30 shipped.

I don't think I've seen any that cheap in a while. I would expect to pay at least $45, or do some serious and dedicated searching

[jacobolus]

I don't think I've seen any that cheap in a while. I would expect to pay at least $45, or do some serious and dedicated searching

Here’s one that went for $30.28 (shipped) a couple weeks ago, http://www.ebay.com/itm/271391983361 (not the greatest condition though, and with an RJ11 connector), or a more typical one in good shape for $37 shipped, http://www.ebay.com/itm/371060356659

Here’s an M122 last month for $26.50 shipped http://www.ebay.com/itm/111318114654

Or if you’re willing to pay $45–50, they come up pretty often.

[newchemicals]

The terminal Ms generally don't sell for as much as it will cost you extra money and effort to convert it. Lexmark Ms sell for less but usually have permanently attached cables. Be careful of 71Gxxxx Lexmarks as they are rubber dome and some of the Lexmarks have single piece keys. I'd set aside $50-60 and expect some time spent cleaning it. 

[mougrim]

Or you could hunt for terminal Model F - it more common than AT board and better than XT.

[vivalarevolución]

I say get all three so yo can test them all in person.  The only thing that loses is your wallet.

[fohat.digs]

I recommend the Unicomp. You get a brand new keyboard, with a warranty, and have choices of colors and case configurations, as well as native USB.

If you like that one, then start to consider vintage equipment, modifying, and collecting.

PS - don't let PS/2 cables drive your decision, that is on its way out.

PPS - I dearly love the high actuation point of Alps, that is their best characteristic

[BucklingSpring]

Are the Matias switches lighter than the BS switches? does the higher actuation point help with fast, accurate typing or does it take some getting used to? I like the modern features like the multimedia keys, but those are no deal-breaker either way. Am I missing any key features in my comparisons?

- As already said - Matias are lighter and much less clicky than the bukling spring.
- I can't tell if higher actuation point helps. But the overall feel is plain awesome (personal taste) and in my case required absolutely no adaptation.
- If you like MX Reds - Although the Matias ALPS is tactile, it is much closer in comparison to the MX Red than the Bucklingspring.

As a side Note, the quiet Matias are much more suitable in a working environment. You will not get negative attention as the source of an additional and annoyingly distinctive noise in your workplace.

Either way - I also suggest you go with the Matias or the Unicomp.

[1391406]

I can't recommend Unicomp. While the typing experience is similar enough, the quality of the board leaves a lot to be desired compared to older, original IBM-made Model M's(eg. case flex and case creak).

Cleanup is a simple affair, though. Every Model M I've ever owned has been cleaned with straight 91% alcohol, which is capable of removing pen marks(just don't wipe the label on the back). You can remove the keycaps that are dirty and wipe them off or toss them in some soapy water. Cleaning the case is no big deal, either. Just use a rag and wipe and/or scrub it with alcohol. Model M's generally clean up great.

Not to mention, they can be had for a little more than half the price of a Unicomp.

[CPTBadAss]

If you like linear switches and want to try something new, I highly suggest complicated linear green Alps.

[1391406]

I'd also toss in a recommendation for the Apple Extended Keyboard M0115(not the Extended II), which uses Orange or Salmon alps. Out of all the Alps switches (and clones) I've tried, I can't recommend it highly enough. While the 122-key Model F is my go-to board, AEK's are my second favorite, hands down. It's about 10g - 15g lighter than BS.

[dorkvader]

If you like linear switches and want to try something new, I highly suggest complicated linear green Alps.

If you like linear switches and want to try something new, I highly suggest honeywell hall effect.

[jacobolus]

I'd also toss in a recommendation for the Apple Extended Keyboard M0115(not the Extended II), which uses Orange or Salmon alps.

Interestingly enough, the orange switches in the AEK (M0115) and the cream switches in the AEK II have extremely similar if not identical springs and tactile leaves inside. The only differences are the switchplates and the little dampeners in the AEK II’s dampened switches, both of which have relatively minimal effect on feel. The keyboards seem psychologically very different to type on, but this is almost entirely due to the sound, I think.

Also, the AEK II has nicer (thicker) keycaps, and a slightly sturdier case.

Personally I agree with you though: I like orange Alps switches much better, due to the undamped “clack” sound.

Also note: you get a really nice clicky switch if you put a Matias click leaf into an orange Alps switch.

[1391406]

I'd also toss in a recommendation for the Apple Extended Keyboard M0115(not the Extended II), which uses Orange or Salmon alps.

Interestingly enough, the orange switches in the AEK (M0115) and the cream switches in the AEK II have extremely similar if not identical springs and tactile leaves inside. The only differences are the switchplates and the little dampeners in the AEK II’s dampened switches, both of which have relatively minimal effect on feel. The keyboards seem psychologically very different to type on, but this is almost entirely due to the sound, I think.

Also, the AEK II has nicer (thicker) keycaps, and a slightly sturdier case.

Personally I agree with you though: I like orange Alps switches much better, due to the undamped “clack” sound.

Also note: you get a really nice clicky switch if you put a Matias click leaf into an orange Alps switch.

I can tell a difference in feel, no question. I have two of both boards, and in my experience the AEK II isn't as smooth. It feels a tad gritty, in my opinion. Not to mention it has a slightly higher actuation force.

[iloveucla]

I was interested about the Unicomp model m keyboard, but I've seen some reviews address that some of the plastic parts inside the keyboard (especially under the switchs) are very easy to become broken. IBM Model M can last for 20+ years. I am not sure how durable if you would compare umicomp keyboard to the original model M.

[jacobolus]

I can tell a difference in feel, no question. I have two of both boards, and in my experience the AEK II isn't as smooth. It feels a tad gritty, in my opinion. Not to mention it has a slightly higher actuation force.

Often grittiness in these keyboards is just a matter of dust getting into the switches over the years; I’ve tried orange Alps switches which were gritty and others which were very smooth for example. But I could also believe that there’s some slight difference in the molds for the sliders or top switch housings. The design/shape of the parts is largely similar, but there might have been worse tooling. Dunno.

Or maybe there’s a noticeable difference between the switchplates after all. I should try to measure them more explicitly sometime soon.

[1391406]

I was interested about the Unicomp model m keyboard, but I've seen some reviews address that some of the plastic parts inside the keyboard (especially under the switchs) are very easy to become broken. IBM Model M can last for 20+ years. I am not sure how durable if you would compare umicomp keyboard to the original model M.

Internally, they're both basically the same. The composition of the plastic used for the case might be different, but I have no reason to believe Unicomp boards are more prone to failure than older Model M's.

[1391406]

I can tell a difference in feel, no question. I have two of both boards, and in my experience the AEK II isn't as smooth. It feels a tad gritty, in my opinion. Not to mention it has a slightly higher actuation force.

Often grittiness in these keyboards is just a matter of dust getting into the switches over the years; I’ve tried orange Alps switches which were gritty and others which were very smooth for example. But I could also believe that there’s some slight difference in the molds for the sliders or top switch housings. The design/shape of the parts is largely similar, but there might have been worse tooling. Dunno.

Or maybe there’s a noticeable difference between the switchplates after all. I should try to measure them more explicitly sometime soon.

As mentioned, I have a total of 4 Apple Extended boards; 2 AEK's and 2 AEK II's. Both AEK's (M0115) feel exactly alike. I'm also unable to detect any discrepancy in feel between either of the AEK II's. My assumption is that there's a real difference in key feel between the two.

[chuckster]

Hmm, this thread has me flip-flopping. I thought  had decided on an IBM, but the warranty and native USB (I am planning a new PC build soon and I doubt it will support PS/2) are considerations for the Unicomp. Do the terminal models require anything special for the use of those extra keys?

What has me more curious is the world of ALPS-switch keyboards. The Matias is out simply because of price, I can’t be spending that much when old classics are 30-50% cheaper, even if cleaning is an extra consideration. I don't know much about the AEK, but from looking at pictures, that layout seems a bit odd for a PC devotee, though it does seem to have all the right keys. I would have to account for some custom keycaps if I went with the AEK. The two ALPS boards I've heard most about are the Northgate Omnikey and the Dell At101w, so how do these two compare? I know the Northgate has doubleshot caps, which is really nice, but is it really worth the price over the Dell? Are there other ALPS boards to consider in the <$75 range?

Also, I've heard all ALPS are sort of 'wobbly', is this true? Wobbly keycaps are a pet peeve of mine and I would really like to minimize that if possible. How do the modern Alps-type switches like the Duckys I've seen compare to these old boards?

If you like linear switches and want to try something new, I highly suggest complicated linear green Alps.

If you like linear switches and want to try something new, I highly suggest honeywell hall effect.

[dorkvader]

Hmm, this thread has me flip-flopping. I thought  had decided on an IBM, but the warranty and native USB (I am planning a new PC build soon and I doubt it will support PS/2) are considerations for the Unicomp. Do the terminal models require anything special for the use of those extra keys?

yes.

about alps kbs, I don't have either, but this is what I have read and deduced from pictures
northgate is great but pricy! Expect to pay out for one.
dell is cheaper and decent.

the ducky alps was probably the most wobbly keyboard I've tried, particularly on stabilized keys.

[chuckster]

I've always considered Hall-effect to be a 1970s niche switch, not the stuff of easily attainable boards for non-collectors. Are there cheap boards out there with Hall-effect switches that are as easily compatible with modern Windows PCs as a model M?

[dorkvader]

I've always considered Hall-effect to be a 1970s niche switch, not the stuff of easily attainable boards for non-collectors. Are there cheap boards out there with Hall-effect switches that are as easily compatible with modern Windows PCs as a model M?

I added it up recently, and I've paid on average of less than about $20 per hall effect board.

As far as availability, there are usually 5-10 on eBay at any given time. They are more common than northgates for sure.

most of mine are from the 1980's though.

As far as windows compatible. Wait and see! I'll figure out how to convert them eventually, unless someone else does it first. Fortunately, they sholud be pretty easy from a switch sensing / controlling perspective.

[1391406]

Hmm, this thread has me flip-flopping. I thought  had decided on an IBM, but the warranty and native USB

What do you mean warranty? Most used Model M's are as reliable today as they were 20 years ago.

[dorkvader]

Hmm, this thread has me flip-flopping. I thought  had decided on an IBM, but the warranty and native USB

What do you mean warranty? Most used Model M's are as reliable today as they were 20 years ago.

A new unicomp will come with a warranty, for what it's worth.

Unless you get one with serious issues, there's a good chance any used model M will just work.

[1391406]

Hmm, this thread has me flip-flopping. I thought  had decided on an IBM, but the warranty and native USB

What do you mean warranty? Most used Model M's are as reliable today as they were 20 years ago.

A new unicomp will come with a warranty, for what it's worth.

Unless you get one with serious issues, there's a good chance any used model M will just work.

I got the impression he was referring to a concern regarding older Model M's not coming with a warranty, which is really a non-concern, in my opinion.

[mougrim]

Yep. I don't have warranty on my Model F - it just works

[fohat.digs]

a concern regarding older Model M's not coming with a warranty, which is really a non-concern, in my opinion.

I would estimate that dozens of vintage M/Fs have passed through my hands.

Of probably 6-8 F XTs, one was dead.
Of about 3-4 F ATs, all worked properly.
Of probably at least a dozen F-122s, two have been dead (although I may have killed one of them).

Of at least 2 dozen Model Ms (including at least 3-4 M-122s) only 2 have been dead, both Greenock-made 42Hs.

And just to be clear, all but a few of these were dirty bargain-basement ebay purchases.

[barihunk]

Hmm, this thread has me flip-flopping. I thought  had decided on an IBM, but the warranty and native USB (I am planning a new PC build soon and I doubt it will support PS/2) are considerations for the Unicomp. Do the terminal models require anything special for the use of those extra keys?

What has me more curious is the world of ALPS-switch keyboards. The Matias is out simply because of price, I can’t be spending that much when old classics are 30-50% cheaper, even if cleaning is an extra consideration. I don't know much about the AEK, but from looking at pictures, that layout seems a bit odd for a PC devotee, though it does seem to have all the right keys. I would have to account for some custom keycaps if I went with the AEK. The two ALPS boards I've heard most about are the Northgate Omnikey and the Dell At101w, so how do these two compare? I know the Northgate has doubleshot caps, which is really nice, but is it really worth the price over the Dell? Are there other ALPS boards to consider in the <$75 range?

Also, I've heard all ALPS are sort of 'wobbly', is this true? Wobbly keycaps are a pet peeve of mine and I would really like to minimize that if possible. How do the modern Alps-type switches like the Duckys I've seen compare to these old boards?

I've got both of the boards you were considering (Model M, Matias). Some considerations:

1. Switch feel - Matias alps feel great to my hands, and they are lighter than the M. The buckling spring feel can't be beat, but even the loud clicky matias alps doesn't sound all that loud. I still prefer the action of the M, but they are very heavy switches and you may get a little tired from typing on them. The boards are also old and the keycaps will likely have some shine on them, though all of mine still feel good.

2. Windows key - not a windows user but you may find that the lack of windows key for the model M to be annoying. For me I remap the control to capslock so I lose capslock but keep my command () key

3. USB vs PS2 - I wouldn't be too caught up in that. I'm surprised this wasn't brought up but if you want USB compatibility built into the cable (at a price of course) there's always the SDL to USB cable (http://www.ebay.com/itm/271367683396) - works beautifully for me and I get to get rid of the coiled SDL --> PS2 cable.

4. Love the AEK, AEK II and the adjustable keyboards - word of caution though, the effort you're going to need to find a ADB --> USB convertor isn't really worth the trouble, even though you would have a windows key.

5. Unicomp boards all have non-removable USB cables, as do the wired Matias boards.

I know that you said the Matias is out of your price range, but who knows a used one may come up in the classifieds. Or you could buy one of my Model Ms (yes I went overboard, but JK you may have to pry them from my cold dead fingers, especially my SSK).

[rowdy]

4. Love the AEK, AEK II and the adjustable keyboards - word of caution though, the effort you're going to need to find a ADB --> USB convertor isn't really worth the trouble, even though you would have a windows key.

ADB/USB adaptors are all over eBay.

[1391406]

What rowdy said.

[chuckster]

Does the Dell AT101w compare to the Matias in feel? It is a much lower-priced option that still has a strong following.

Also, for the love of linear switches, what are the best boards using those complicated green Alps switches?

[fohat.digs]

Does the Dell AT101w compare to the Matias in feel? It is a much lower-priced option that still has a strong following.

Also, for the love of linear switches, what are the best boards using those complicated green Alps switches?

The Dell AT101 can be a great keyboard, but there are a lot of them out there that have aged poorly and are terrible. If you get a bad one, don't throw the baby out with the bathwater.

[1391406]

Does the Dell AT101w compare to the Matias in feel? It is a much lower-priced option that still has a strong following.

Also, for the love of linear switches, what are the best boards using those complicated green Alps switches?

The Dell AT101 can be a great keyboard, but there are a lot of them out there that have aged poorly and are terrible. If you get a bad one, don't throw the baby out with the bathwater.

There are NIB AT101W's on eBay for a reasonable price sometimes. There are a few listed at the moment.

[jacobolus]

Note, the best Dell AT101s are the very earliest ones, I believe made by Alps, with pink/salmon Alps switches, and Alps PBT dye-sub keycaps. I imagine these are very nice to type on, on par with the Apple M0115 or the SGI “Bigfoot” keyboards. These tend to be pretty expensive though, e.g. http://www.ebay.com/itm/261499475245

Later Dell AT101s got progressively worse in quality.

[False_Dmitry_II]

If you're willing to desolder and such, you could always get a dell and then put matias switches into it. But that might get too close to the price of a matias.

Note, the best Dell AT101s are the very earliest ones, I believe made by Alps, with pink/salmon Alps switches, and Alps PBT dye-sub keycaps. I imagine these are very nice to type on, on par with the Apple M0115 or the SGI “Bigfoot” keyboards. These tend to be pretty expensive though, e.g. http://www.ebay.com/itm/261499475245

Later Dell AT101s got progressively worse in quality.

I didn't know they ever had PBT caps, but that spacebar is ABS.

[jacobolus]

I didn't know they ever had PBT caps, but that spacebar is ABS.

Yeah, spacebars for nearly all keyboards have almost always been ABS. This one is indeed quite obviously ABS. :-)
Yet another reason that super huge (i.e. anything bigger than 3-4 units wide) spacebars are terrible. :-)

The rest of the keycaps are likewise pretty obviously PBT, by contrast to the spacebar.

I think very early production of AT101s was done by Alps (for only a couple of years maybe), and they later switched to another manufacturer, who used ABS keycaps for all the keys.

[mougrim]

Yep. Even IBM model M could had an ABS spacebar, if it was produced in Greenock

[chuckster]

I'm thinking the Model M is the best choice for me, between its robust design and great key feel, I think it's a good bet as far as working condition and overall feel.

So now my question is, what do  Iook for when buying? Any certain vintage or markings I should look for (or avoid), or any common problems to look out for that can easily be spotted on ebay listings?

[False_Dmitry_II]

Well, some auctions will tell you it's been bolt-modded, that's a plus to have it predone. Otherwise most random sellers just know that these weird old and loud keyboards are worth some money and won't be able to answer any questions nor describe anything useful. So there aren't really warning signs to watch out for.

[rowdy]

I'm thinking the Model M is the best choice for me, between its robust design and great key feel, I think it's a good bet as far as working condition and overall feel.

So now my question is, what do  Iook for when buying? Any certain vintage or markings I should look for (or avoid), or any common problems to look out for that can easily be spotted on ebay listings?

Bolt-modded, as False_Dmitry_II noted, is a definite plus, but only if it is done properly.  Not bolt-modded is not necessarily a catastrophy - I have two that are not bolt-modded.  One is missing a few keycaps, but the other one works perfectly.

Not sure if you would be tempted to get one cheap that is missing a few keycaps, but try to avoid it if you can.  Although you can order most single keycaps from Unicomp, that would be an additional expense and time waiting for them.

An SDL cable I would also see as a plus.  That is detachable, and you can swap it for one of orihalcon's excellent SDL/USB cables.  Otherwise you would be up for a PS/2 to USB adaptor.

[fohat.digs]

This is probably a "sure thing"

http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=46277.msg1355039#msg1355039

Otherwise, I might still recommend starting with a Unicomp.

PS - Orihalcon's USB cables are great, but also pricey.

[1391406]

I've got 4 non-bolt modded Model M's that range in age and they all work perfectly, so generally speaking, I'd hardly consider bolt modding a necessity. In fact, clickykeyboards.com doesn't bolt mod their M's (as far as I know) and they're doing fairly brisk business with very few complaints.

As for what to look for, if you're looking on eBay then try to find a Model M that at least 'appears' in very good condition, in which the seller states that it's been tested and works. Look for a reputable seller, which means a rating as high as possible with as many sales as possible. In my experience, some of the older M's (ie. pre-1990) are more firm to type on than newer M's, so that's something to consider when looking.

I don't recommend buying one that's missing key caps with the idea that you'll replace the missing caps with Unicomp variants. I bought a set of Unicomp caps to replace some missing key caps that I used for another project and noticed there was a noticeable discrepancy between the color of the original M's key caps and Unicomp's. They're distinguishable and don't really match. However, you can typically find original Model M key caps from clickykeyboards.com.

Personally, I prefer Model M's with a detachable cable. The overall build quality seems superior to latter models. Typically, I'd look for Model M's produced by IBM rather than Lexmark.

[fatmav]

I own both Matias clicky (Mini Tactile Pro) and the newer quiet version (Laptop Pro). The two get similar amount of wear due to my rotation cycle, but they have very different outcome after a year.

The clicky is as good as it was on the first day, and perhaps even a bit better since the keys have been broken into and the springs are getting a bit less rigid. I am totally in love with the keyboard as it is today, except I dare not to use it when I am sitting in an open office environment. I only use it once in a while when I am in a closed-door room by myself.

However, the keys on the quiet have become so wobbly that it becomes annoying. I didn't realize how wobbly the quiet has become until I forced myself to concentrate on another keyboard (Code Clear) for two months straight to learn its nuance and had to use the quiet for a few days due to travel. Some of the more frequently-hit keys such as J wobble so much that I feel like a TaiChi master: I can rest my finger on the key surface and, with friction alone, the keys just travel horizontally with my finger. In actual typing, this leaves a questionable taste in my mouth: it really hurts the tactile feeling on the quiet.

So to the OP: I have not spent extensive amount of time on a BS yet (still waiting for TKL from Unicomp) and so I cannot offer a comparison. We all are concerned about cost, but the Matias clicky can really be worth its asking price in my opinion. As for the quiet, I am not so sure.