Author Topic: Retr0Brite and Zenith ZKB-2  (Read 3937 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline engicoder

  • Thread Starter
  • Posts: 721
  • Location: North Carolina
Retr0Brite and Zenith ZKB-2
« on: Fri, 11 July 2014, 12:53:35 »
Over a year ago I acquired a Zenith ZKB-2 with green alps from a friend in exchange for a helping him set up his new computer. See this thread.

It seems that many of these green Alps endowed Zenith's end their lives as donor boards once a GH member gets ahold of them. Part of me is leaning that way. The other half is a bit charmed by this keyboard and its internal speaker chirping away as you type. While my subconscious battles over its final fate, I decided I would have at it with some Retr0Brite and see what happens. If the results are bad, its a donor...if there good, the decision remains difficult.

The Process


I decided to go with a liquid approach instead of paste/gel. H2O2 is relatively cheap and the case is thin, so submerging it in liquid shouldn't be too difficult. I went to Sally and picked up some developer for about $10. I already had some oxy clean at home. I got a gallon on 20 volume and a liter of 40 volume which combined yield about a 7% solution, which is a little lower than recommended, but should work.

70489-0

I have a UV exposure unit I built previously to expose photosensitive PCB material. I put the retr0brite in a plastic container in the bathtub ( in case of disaster ) and then placed the UV above.

70491-170493-2

The case took about 5 hours. When it was finished, I put the key caps in the remaining solution. The keycaps sink when turned over. I placed the container on some boxes and put the underneath.

70495-3

The key caps to much longer, but the solution had probably lost strength due to the breakdown of the H2O2.

Results

The Case:

Here are some photos of the case before. The inside color is probably the original color. Note the build markings with a date of 87-09-23. Who knew Borg Warner made keyboard cases?
70497-470499-570501-6

After
70503-7

Its still slightly yellowed, but close to original.

The Key Caps

Before
70505-8

After
70507-9

Issues:

There results weren't perfect.
The Zenith logo on the dip switch cover was silver originally. The Retr0Brite removed the silver color. I can paint it back. Curiously, the silver on the "data systems" remained.

70509-10

The white key caps still show some yellowing, while some of the grey key caps suffer from some white bloom; noteably the "+" key on the numpad.

70511-11

Doing it again, I would do the different color keys as separate batches and use fresh solution for each.

Conclusion:

Overall, I happy with the results. Its not perfect, but its much better than it was. Will it become a donor board? Not right now, but should I find I really need (want) to build a green Alps board....well, maybe ;)
 
« Last Edit: Fri, 11 July 2014, 12:58:39 by engicoder »
   

Offline intelli78

  • Posts: 1503
  • Location: Seattle
Re: Retr0Brite and Zenith ZKB-2
« Reply #1 on: Fri, 11 July 2014, 12:56:37 »
Really impressive! I have some boards and keycaps that could really use this treatment... just a matter of tracking down the right chemicals. This process is really impressive, the FAQ about its history is a pretty interesting read.
Please consider carefully before you decide to comment, for Jesus.

Offline engicoder

  • Thread Starter
  • Posts: 721
  • Location: North Carolina
Re: Retr0Brite and Zenith ZKB-2
« Reply #2 on: Fri, 11 July 2014, 13:05:11 »
Really impressive! I have some boards and keycaps that could really use this treatment... just a matter of tracking down the right chemicals.

I got the peroxide from Sally Beauty supplies. They have stores just about everywhere.
   

Offline terrpn

  • Alpha Geezer
  • * Exquisite Elder
  • Posts: 992
  • Location: MD/VA
  • - Buy Vintage -
Re: Retr0Brite and Zenith ZKB-2
« Reply #3 on: Fri, 11 July 2014, 22:10:35 »
looks nice...........

great job and one of my favorite boards and switches

.....i left the speaker on :cool:

you are more hi tech than me...........i just let mine cook in the sun
More

Luga G80-1865/MX Reds + Dolch G80-1813/MX Blues + G80-3700HQAUS + DK9008G2 Pro/MX Browns Thick PBT + DK9008G2 Pro/MX Clears Thick PBT +  QFR TKL/Ghetto Greens + Cherry G80-1800/MX Blues + IBM Model M SSK Bolt Modded + IBM Model M + IBM Model F + IBM AT F + Cherry G80-1000 (HAD)/MX Vintage Blacks + Razer BWU/MX Blues + Leading Edge DC2214/Blue Alps + Compaq MX11800/Browns + Chicony 5181/Monterey Blues + Chicony 5161/MX Black Cherry Clone + Focus 2001/White Alps + Chicony 5191/White Futabas + Olivetti ANK27-101 + Dell (Old Logo) AT101/Black Alps + NMB RT8255C+/Black Space Invaders + Unitek K260/Green Alps + Apple M0116/Orange Alps + AEK II M3501/Cream Alps + AEK M0115/Orange Alps + NEC  APC412/Blue Sliders + NEC APC410/Blue Sliders + Omnikey /White Alps + Wang/Yellow Alps (Omrons) + Laser/White SMK + Fame/Blue Aruz + AEK II M3501/Salmon Alps + Zenith ZKB-2R/Green Alps + Wang 724/Orange Alps + DK1087/Green Alps + Zenith ZKB-2/Yellow Alps + Dell Old Logo AT101/Salmon-Pink Alps + Leading Edge AK1012/White SMK's + Magitronic SK-1030/White (Linear) Futaba's + Packard Bell/White (Clicky) Futaba's + Datacomp DFK101/White  Alps + SGI AT101/Dampened White Alps + NMB AQ6RT-72511/Grey Space Invaders (Hi-Tek) + Datacomp/Blue Alps + Phillips 2812/White Space Invaders (Linear) + Dah Yang K251/Vintage MX Blues + Chicony 5161/DS Caps/Vintage MX Blue + Archie-NMB AQ659ZRT-725/Black Space Invader (Tactile) + IBM Model M 71G4644 (RD) Bolt Modded with Soarers Converter + IBM Model M Silver Label 1390131 + Cherry G80-1501/Vintage MX Clears + Focus FK8000/Linear Futabas + Gateway 2000 Anykey Programmable/Maxi-Switch + Dell GY13PVAT101/Dye Sub Caps/Salmon Alps + Chicony 5161/White Alps + AST K0B101/Slider over RD + Qtronix QX-32H + Everex/NMB RT8255CW+ Black Space Invaders-Split Erase + Tandon/NMB AQ659ZRT-101A/Beige Space Invaders + Cherry G80-11903 MNRUS/MX Blacks + Apple IIGS A9M0330/SMK Whites + WYSE PCE/MX Blacks + Chicony 5160AXT/Clicky Futaba + Cherry G80-0528/Vintage MX Blacks + Dell AT101/Linear (Modded) Black Alps+Topre 55g

Offline False_Dmitry_II

  • Posts: 1107
Re: Retr0Brite and Zenith ZKB-2
« Reply #4 on: Sat, 12 July 2014, 03:47:48 »
Looks good. That's one of those switches that I'd like to try for a week, but I generally prefer clicky over linear.

It's also cool that you got the guy back on The One True Keyboard when he was using something bad.

you are more hi tech than me...........i just let mine cook in the sun

How would that work? The sun is what caused the problem in the first place.
"Those who would give up essential Liberty, to purchase a little temporary Safety, deserve neither Liberty nor Safety." - Ben Franklin (11 Nov. 1755)

Offline Vanilla

  • Posts: 140
  • Location: SF living
  • 110% Snuggable
Re: Retr0Brite and Zenith ZKB-2
« Reply #5 on: Sat, 12 July 2014, 03:51:30 »
Wow that's impressive! I've heard of this from people doing a similar thing to yellowing super nintendo case housings.

But I've also heard that the process is not permanent as further UV exposure, after the fact, will cause it to yellow once more as it's the plastic's formulation that makes it yellow in the first place and you will need to repeat the process once more to bring back its original luster.

Offline jacobolus

  • Posts: 3661
  • Location: San Francisco, CA
Re: Retr0Brite and Zenith ZKB-2
« Reply #6 on: Sat, 12 July 2014, 04:31:14 »
How would that work? The sun is what caused the problem in the first place.
The original reaction happens with UV exposure over a period of years.

However, if the keycaps are in a hydrogen peroxide bath, then a few hours of UV exposure reverses the original yellowing reaction.

You can read about the chemistry at http://retr0bright.wikispaces.com

Offline engicoder

  • Thread Starter
  • Posts: 721
  • Location: North Carolina
Re: Retr0Brite and Zenith ZKB-2
« Reply #7 on: Sat, 12 July 2014, 08:31:11 »
But I've also heard that the process is not permanent as further UV exposure, after the fact, will cause it to yellow once more as it's the plastic's formulation that makes it yellow in the first place and you will need to repeat the process once more to bring back its original luster.

That's true, it could yellow again with time...a lot of time. This could possibly be prevented to some degree by applying a clear sealer after its been restored (or before it yellows)....although, I'm not sure the efficacy of this technique has ever been validated.
   

Offline False_Dmitry_II

  • Posts: 1107
Re: Retr0Brite and Zenith ZKB-2
« Reply #8 on: Sun, 13 July 2014, 15:35:31 »
How would that work? The sun is what caused the problem in the first place.
The original reaction happens with UV exposure over a period of years.

However, if the keycaps are in a hydrogen peroxide bath, then a few hours of UV exposure reverses the original yellowing reaction.

You can read about the chemistry at http://retr0bright.wikispaces.com

His post makes it sound like he just sticks the stuff outside and the sun somehow makes the yellow go away.

I know the chemistry involved with peroxide. For the record, it's with any light, not just UV. UV is just higher powered.
"Those who would give up essential Liberty, to purchase a little temporary Safety, deserve neither Liberty nor Safety." - Ben Franklin (11 Nov. 1755)

Offline Vanilla

  • Posts: 140
  • Location: SF living
  • 110% Snuggable
Re: Retr0Brite and Zenith ZKB-2
« Reply #9 on: Sun, 13 July 2014, 16:25:57 »
But I've also heard that the process is not permanent as further UV exposure, after the fact, will cause it to yellow once more as it's the plastic's formulation that makes it yellow in the first place and you will need to repeat the process once more to bring back its original luster.

That's true, it could yellow again with time...a lot of time. This could possibly be prevented to some degree by applying a clear sealer after its been restored (or before it yellows)....although, I'm not sure the efficacy of this technique has ever been validated.


True. Re-yellowation is especially slowed if the board is kept away from the sun too.
Not so sure about sealing it as you might be screwing yourself over if it yellows once more and the yellow is now sealed in. XD
Then again perhaps if you sealed every nook and crevice including the underside.

Offline paicrai

  • Actually a Jane Austen novel
  • * Destiny Supporter
  • Posts: 470
  • Location: sun stuff
  • mindblank
Re: Retr0Brite and Zenith ZKB-2
« Reply #10 on: Sun, 13 July 2014, 16:54:57 »
noice
THE FEMINIST ILLUMINATI

I will literally **** you raw paicrai, I hope you're legal by the time I meet you.
👌👀👌👀👌👀👌👀👌👀 good **** go౦ԁ ****👌 thats ✔ some good👌👌**** right👌👌th 👌 ere👌👌👌 right✔there ✔✔if i do ƽaү so my self 💯  i say so 💯  thats what im talking about right there right there (chorus: ʳᶦᵍʰᵗ ᵗʰᵉʳᵉ) mMMMMᎷМ💯 👌👌 👌НO0ОଠOOOOOОଠଠOoooᵒᵒᵒᵒᵒᵒᵒᵒᵒ👌 👌👌 👌 💯 👌 👀 👀 👀 👌👌Good ****

Offline koalapear

  • Posts: 168
  • Location: AZ
  • Actually hates koalas.
Re: Retr0Brite and Zenith ZKB-2
« Reply #11 on: Sun, 13 July 2014, 18:58:08 »
What a transformation! Looks fantastic!
'91 Model M SSK | NerD 60 (MX Greens) | Realforce 87U 55g | Winkeyless B.87 (MX Greens) | Monarch Matias Custom | HHKB | Duck Octagon (67g Zealios)

Offline engicoder

  • Thread Starter
  • Posts: 721
  • Location: North Carolina
Re: Retr0Brite and Zenith ZKB-2
« Reply #12 on: Sun, 13 July 2014, 19:32:50 »
True. Re-yellowation is especially slowed if the board is kept away from the sun too.
Not so sure about sealing it as you might be screwing yourself over if it yellows once more and the yellow is now sealed in. XD
Then again perhaps if you sealed every nook and crevice including the underside.

Your right, I'm sure the sealer would make it more difficult, if not impossible for the retr0brite to get at the plastic. I think its easier to just see what happens and if need be, repeat the process.
   

Offline terrpn

  • Alpha Geezer
  • * Exquisite Elder
  • Posts: 992
  • Location: MD/VA
  • - Buy Vintage -
Re: Retr0Brite and Zenith ZKB-2
« Reply #13 on: Sun, 13 July 2014, 20:06:32 »
How would that work? The sun is what caused the problem in the first place.
The original reaction happens with UV exposure over a period of years.

However, if the keycaps are in a hydrogen peroxide bath, then a few hours of UV exposure reverses the original yellowing reaction.

You can read about the chemistry at http://retr0bright.wikispaces.com

His post makes it sound like he just sticks the stuff outside and the sun somehow makes the yellow go away.

I know the chemistry involved with peroxide. For the record, it's with any light, not just UV. UV is just higher powered.

a bath of oxy clean, hydrogen peroxide, strong sunlight (UV) for a couple hours= white
More

Luga G80-1865/MX Reds + Dolch G80-1813/MX Blues + G80-3700HQAUS + DK9008G2 Pro/MX Browns Thick PBT + DK9008G2 Pro/MX Clears Thick PBT +  QFR TKL/Ghetto Greens + Cherry G80-1800/MX Blues + IBM Model M SSK Bolt Modded + IBM Model M + IBM Model F + IBM AT F + Cherry G80-1000 (HAD)/MX Vintage Blacks + Razer BWU/MX Blues + Leading Edge DC2214/Blue Alps + Compaq MX11800/Browns + Chicony 5181/Monterey Blues + Chicony 5161/MX Black Cherry Clone + Focus 2001/White Alps + Chicony 5191/White Futabas + Olivetti ANK27-101 + Dell (Old Logo) AT101/Black Alps + NMB RT8255C+/Black Space Invaders + Unitek K260/Green Alps + Apple M0116/Orange Alps + AEK II M3501/Cream Alps + AEK M0115/Orange Alps + NEC  APC412/Blue Sliders + NEC APC410/Blue Sliders + Omnikey /White Alps + Wang/Yellow Alps (Omrons) + Laser/White SMK + Fame/Blue Aruz + AEK II M3501/Salmon Alps + Zenith ZKB-2R/Green Alps + Wang 724/Orange Alps + DK1087/Green Alps + Zenith ZKB-2/Yellow Alps + Dell Old Logo AT101/Salmon-Pink Alps + Leading Edge AK1012/White SMK's + Magitronic SK-1030/White (Linear) Futaba's + Packard Bell/White (Clicky) Futaba's + Datacomp DFK101/White  Alps + SGI AT101/Dampened White Alps + NMB AQ6RT-72511/Grey Space Invaders (Hi-Tek) + Datacomp/Blue Alps + Phillips 2812/White Space Invaders (Linear) + Dah Yang K251/Vintage MX Blues + Chicony 5161/DS Caps/Vintage MX Blue + Archie-NMB AQ659ZRT-725/Black Space Invader (Tactile) + IBM Model M 71G4644 (RD) Bolt Modded with Soarers Converter + IBM Model M Silver Label 1390131 + Cherry G80-1501/Vintage MX Clears + Focus FK8000/Linear Futabas + Gateway 2000 Anykey Programmable/Maxi-Switch + Dell GY13PVAT101/Dye Sub Caps/Salmon Alps + Chicony 5161/White Alps + AST K0B101/Slider over RD + Qtronix QX-32H + Everex/NMB RT8255CW+ Black Space Invaders-Split Erase + Tandon/NMB AQ659ZRT-101A/Beige Space Invaders + Cherry G80-11903 MNRUS/MX Blacks + Apple IIGS A9M0330/SMK Whites + WYSE PCE/MX Blacks + Chicony 5160AXT/Clicky Futaba + Cherry G80-0528/Vintage MX Blacks + Dell AT101/Linear (Modded) Black Alps+Topre 55g

Offline davkol

  •  Post Editing Timeout
  • Posts: 4994
Re: Retr0Brite and Zenith ZKB-2
« Reply #14 on: Mon, 14 July 2014, 04:15:01 »

Offline ClarusWorks

  • Posts: 27
Re: Retr0Brite and Zenith ZKB-2
« Reply #15 on: Mon, 14 July 2014, 11:38:34 »
Also, I suspect that Borg-Warner made the plastic resin used to mold the case, not the case itself.  Looks like they used to make plastic but sold that business to GE:  http://www.nytimes.com/1988/06/17/business/company-news-borg-warner-to-sell-chemical-unit-to-ge.html

I suspect that the "Fei Horng" molded into the case was the actual manufacturer, IIRC a lot of Zenith keyboards were made in Taiwan.