[GB] Ergodox in Metal: cases in layers (shipped!)

[Data]

Sweet.

[limitz]

I did not get my email. [...]
Thanks.

Aaaand - that's why I posted.

Sounds like you're just going to go ahead, so check your paypal email, I've send a 2nd invoice for the difference (it's minor compared to my flailing about previously).

Updated invoice paid. Still in for SS Classic + Spacer kit

[AKmalamute]

Alright guys, I've received confirmation the order has been entered, and they're estimating two weeks in production.

[Data]

Not bad!

[Data]

Just getting my last few parts.  AK, are these Cherry plate-mount stabilizers you're using here?

[AKmalamute]

Just getting my last few parts.  AK, are these Cherry plate-mount stabilizers you're using here?

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Yes. One of the many advantages, IMHO, if this GB is that you can use plate mounted stabilizers, and I prefer cherry but it has the universal hole so you could use costar plate mounted stabs, too.

[Data]

I don't even know where to look for Costar stabs, so I just grabbed some Cherry G99-0224 from Mouser.

[AKmalamute]

The shop has advised me the order has been completed. Not sure if I can get out there today the unseasonable weather caused a bunch of our work's servers to die so I'm spending the day doing a few bare metal restores.

But mailing should begin this weekend. I hope.

[Data]

No pressure AK.  Happy to hear that it's ready.

[limitz]

I don't even know where to look for Costar stabs, so I just grabbed some Cherry G99-0224 from Mouser.

WASD carries costar stabilizers.

[AKmalamute]

It's up to the postal service, now. Everything is out of my hands. (if PP doesn't show a tracking # for you PM me and I'll find it)

So, I have a few extra pieces but not sure I have a whole case. Likely to create a classifieds thread for it. Eventually.

Also: some of you got your case tied together with 16AWG solid copper wire. Some of you though, got 17ca aluminum fence wire instead. I want you to think on that.

Evening Edit: It occurred to me that these were a little less polished than previous runs. Literally, not polished as much -- so you might plan on having some 1000-grit sandpaper handy to smooth out the screw holes to make sure everything lays flat like it's supposed to.

[Data]

Woohoo!

[Data]

I got fence wire! I got fence wire! 

I'll get some sandpaper tomorrow. Just a few rough spots to clean up. Somebody remind me what the order of layers is?

[limitz]

Got mine today, but I'm traveling.

SO says the case feels super heavy, and extremely high quality. Will be combining this w/ the Massdrop kit.

[Data]

Seriously though, I'm gonna need some help with the order of layers.  I think I might have an extra spacer per side?

[AKmalamute]

Base, JD spacer, lower_spacer (that's the really thin one; two divots at the top for the RH side one for the left); three JD spacers (this will go around the PCB) plate, two JD_spacers, upper_spacer (visible cutouts for the electronics), two JD spacers, top_plate (make sure the hole to reboot the Teensy is on the RH side)

Pretty sure. That should make room for everything.

[Data]

Base, JD spacer, lower_spacer (that's the really thin one; two divots at the top for the RH side one for the left); three JD spacers (this will go around the PCB) plate, two JD_spacers, upper_spacer (visible cutouts for the electronics), two JD spacers, top_plate (make sure the hole to reboot the Teensy is on the RH side)

Pretty sure. That should make room for everything.

Awesome. Thank you, AK.

[Data]

I guess I'll chronicle my build here, as tribute.  Pics are customary, right?     If this gets spammy I can move it to another thread/subforum. 


Most of my pieces had a lot of what I can only describe as "slag" from the cutting process.



There was also a bit of "overspray", particularly around the screw holes.  Overall they had a fairly dull finish from the shop.


Note: I'm not complaining about this.  I understand how laser cutting works and was expecting to do some work on the plates anyway.

So I sat down and did some sanding & polishing this weekend.  About 10 hours worth in total.  Here are the results.





I had to get slightly more aggressive than 1000 grit for these.    The rough edges were destroying my sandpaper.  I started with 120 on the worst layers - particularly the spacers - then worked up through 220, and 600.  Then I finished with 1200, 2000, and polishing compound on the top, bottom, and plate layers.  I left the spacers at 220 since they will be the least visible layers.  They have a nice, bright "brushed" look now.

I could have polished these more, but after 10 hours I was ready to be done.  I would have needed to switch to wet sanding for the best results and that was going to be too much for this project.  I think the results turned out pretty well, anyway.

Next step was to do a temp assembly around the plate & PCB for soldering switches.  5 layers: PCB "holder" layer, 3 JD spacers, and the plate (which is on the bottom of the stack in these).





And this is where I'm at currently.  I need some M3 nuts to complete the temp frame for soldering.  I'll be getting those at a local hobby store later today.



So far, so good. 

[limitz]

I guess I'll chronicle my build here, as tribute.  Pics are customary, right?     If this gets spammy I can move it to another thread/subforum. 


Most of my pieces had a lot of what I can only describe as "slag" from the cutting process.

Show Image

Show Image

There was also a bit of "overspray", particularly around the screw holes.  Overall they had a fairly dull finish from the shop.

Show Image

Note: I'm not complaining about this.  I understand how laser cutting works and was expecting to do some work on the plates anyway.

So I sat down and did some sanding & polishing this weekend.  About 10 hours worth in total.  Here are the results.

Show Image

Show Image

Show Image

Show Image

I had to get slightly more aggressive than 1000 grit for these.  ;)  The rough edges were destroying my sandpaper.  I started with 120 on the worst layers - particularly the spacers - then worked up through 220, and 600.  Then I finished with 1200, 2000, and polishing compound on the top, bottom, and plate layers.  I left the spacers at 220 since they will be the least visible layers.  They have a nice, bright "brushed" look now.

I could have polished these more, but after 10 hours I was ready to be done.  I would have needed to switch to wet sanding for the best results and that was going to be too much for this project.  I think the results turned out pretty well, anyway.

Next step was to do a temp assembly around the plate & PCB for soldering switches.  5 layers: PCB "holder" layer, 3 JD spacers, and the plate (which is on the bottom of the stack in these).

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And this is where I'm at currently.  I need some M3 nuts to complete the temp frame for soldering.  I'll be getting those at a local hobby store later today.

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So far, so good.  :D

I've never polished steel before, but I have a day to devote to this. Can you elucidate the polishing procedure you have used for someone completely clueless like me?

[Data]

I guess I'll chronicle my build here, as tribute.  Pics are customary, right?     If this gets spammy I can move it to another thread/subforum. 

<snip>

So far, so good. 

I've never polished steel before, but I have a day to devote to this. Can you elucidate the polishing procedure you have used for someone completely clueless like me?

Kinda depends on how much prep your pieces need.  If you have a lot of slag like I did, you're going to need a fine file, some needle nose pliers, and a lot of sandpaper starting at around 100 grit.

The sanding part is just like sanding wood, you're just taking off a lot less material per stroke.  Make sure you use a sanding block (or make one) to distribute pressure evenly on the surface.  I noticed a very fine "grain" (faint lines in a uniform direction) in my layers so I just stuck with that, sanding in one direction, back and forth across the piece.  This will more or less give you a "brushed" appearance to start.  Then work your way up from the coarse paper to the fine paper, always sanding in the same direction.  You'll see a difference after each step. 

This is slow work.  If you're sanding by hand like I did, expect to spend 15-20 minutes per layer slice, front & back, times however many levels of sanding you're doing.  You could probably use power tools for this and save some time, but I prefer to have more control since this was "finish" work.  Plus the sanding was almost therapeutic.   

When you get up to the ~1000 grit you'll start to see it taking on a mirror finish.  Keep sanding.  I took mine to 2000 before I switched to polish.

As for the actual polishing, you'll need a good metal polish compound/cream.  I used this stuff:
http://www.amazon.com/Lamp-Happich-Simichrome-Polish-1-76/dp/B008UW50GO/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1416858155

It's designed for jewelry/precious metals but it doesn't know the difference.  I'm sure there are more appropriate compounds for steel but I just used what I had.  Apply a little to the surface and work it in with a thick rag (I used an old t-shirt) using small circular motions.  You'll probably need to go back over it several times in this way.  Take your time.  When you're ready, buff it with a clean rag.  Flip the piece over and repeat.  If it's not shiny enough yet, buff & polish again until you're happy with it.  You could probably use a buffing wheel here to save some time.  Just watch out for sharp corners, especially on the plate.

I am just a novice with access to Google.  Hope that helps. 

If anyone has tips/tricks they'd like to add, please chime in.

[limitz]

This does help.

Between 100 grit and your finishing at 2500 grit, how many different types of sandpaper did you use in-between?

[Data]

120
220
600
1200
2000

I only bothered with the last 2 on the 3 most-visible layers: top, bottom, and plate.

[Data]

Small progress last night.



I got the switches and stabilizers installed (but not soldered) for a quick function check.

[limitz]

Getting really confused to the layer order.

Know AKMalamute mentioned it twice in this thread, but I'm a very visual learner.

He mentions the base layer, a thin spacer layer w/ divots, and a JD spacer.

What is this "thin" spacer layer w/divots? Also... are all the JD spacers identical?

EDIT: Think I got this now.

[Data]

Yes, the JD Spacers are the thinest pieces and they are all identical.

[Lu_e]

Awesome

[AKmalamute]

FWIW, I'm open to running this again next year. IC starting again in early January, I'll see if I can't get accurate quotes this time, plates cut middle to late February so everyone interested could get their metal by March or so.

[vivalarevolución]

Thanks for running this.  Mine arrived and they look great.

I'm sorry if this has been mentioned before, but I looked through the thread and found nothing.  What size nut and bolt work best for keeping the case together on this?

[Data]

I'm using M3 (metric) hardware.  I believe that's what it was originally cut for.

As for screw length...  sheet thickness may vary slightly between brands, and I have no calipers/micrometer to confirm, but nominal measurements on 16ga stainless steel are 0.0625 inches or 1.5875mm.  Multiply by the number of layers in your kit.  Right now I'm using 25mm screws for mine, but I'm also adding rubber feet to it.

Edit: spelling

[vivalarevolución]

I'm using M3 (metric) hardware.  I believe that's what it was originally cut for.

As for screw length...  sheet thickness may vary slightly between brands, and I have no calipers/micrometer to confirm, but nominal measurements on 16ga stainless steel are 0.0625 inches or 1.5875mm.  Multiply by the number of layers in your kit.  Right now I'm using 25mm screws for mine, but I'm also adding rubber feet to it.

Edit: spelling

Thanks.  I'm not sure on the thickness, because I will combine my metal case with the original acrylic, so we'll see.

[Data]

I finished my build 2 weeks ago but figured I owed you guys some pics.  Enough procrastinating then...





A few more here:  http://imgur.com/a/G6eHg

And finally, one request if you do another round of this case: Please modify the JD spacers to allow proper spacing with key caps in the outside thumb cluster.  I had this problem on both sides that required several hours of additional grinding/filing/finishing before I could install caps -- thank god I had a Dremel.



It was necessary to trim 3 layers each side in both corners.  If you do another round with the spacers modified I'd be interested in buying another set (spacers only). 

Thanks for making this possible, AK. 

[sethk_]

I finished my build 2 weeks ago but figured I owed you guys some pics.  Enough procrastinating then...

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A few more here:  http://imgur.com/a/G6eHg

And finally, one request if you do another round of this case: Please modify the JD spacers to allow proper spacing with key caps in the outside thumb cluster.  I had this problem on both sides that required several hours of additional grinding/filing/finishing before I could install caps -- thank god I had a Dremel.

Show Image

It was necessary to trim 3 layers each side in both corners.  If you do another round with the spacers modified I'd be interested in buying another set (spacers only). 

Thanks for making this possible, AK. 

That looks really nice, especially with SA.

[AKmalamute]

Not sure what's different, but I didn't have to do anything on mine.

Well no I know what's different ... I'm not using TRRS connectors, and combined with a counting problem early on, I accepted half as many JDspacer pieces ... which worked fine, but somehow that rounded edge never interferes with my keycaps.

Have you put that thing on a scale, yet? Mine is about 5lbs, but you have all the spacers so I bet its closer 7lbs assembled.

And thanks for the pictures; it looks good fully polished.

Y'know one of the wild hares that crossed my path, was to run this case in T-100 steel. Black, heavy, unyielding. Of course that means ANY manufacturing error would be unfixable because it's be stronger than over the counter tools.

Still ... A514 / T100 Ergodox ...

[jdcarpe]

And finally, one request if you do another round of this case: Please modify the JD spacers to allow proper spacing with key caps in the outside thumb cluster.  I had this problem on both sides that required several hours of additional grinding/filing/finishing before I could install caps -- thank god I had a Dremel.

Show Image

It was necessary to trim 3 layers each side in both corners.  If you do another round with the spacers modified I'd be interested in buying another set (spacers only). 

Yep, I definitely need to modify the drawing to remove the rounded part at that corner. If you use more than 2 spacer layers above the switch plate, it will most definitely interfere with keycap movement.

[Data]

Not sure what's different, but I didn't have to do anything on mine.

Well no I know what's different ... I'm not using TRRS connectors, and combined with a counting problem early on, I accepted half as many JDspacer pieces ... which worked fine, but somehow that rounded edge never interferes with my keycaps.

Have you put that thing on a scale, yet? Mine is about 5lbs, but you have all the spacers so I bet its closer 7lbs assembled.

And thanks for the pictures; it looks good fully polished.

Y'know one of the wild hares that crossed my path, was to run this case in T-100 steel. Black, heavy, unyielding. Of course that means ANY manufacturing error would be unfixable because it's be stronger than over the counter tools.

Still ... A514 / T100 Ergodox ...

6.1lb on our digital scale.  It's probably only accurate to about half a pound.

I'm waiting for somebody to do a set in titanium.     I don't know much about T100 steel.  Is it anything like AR500?

And finally, one request if you do another round of this case: Please modify the JD spacers to allow proper spacing with key caps in the outside thumb cluster.  I had this problem on both sides that required several hours of additional grinding/filing/finishing before I could install caps -- thank god I had a Dremel.

Show Image

It was necessary to trim 3 layers each side in both corners.  If you do another round with the spacers modified I'd be interested in buying another set (spacers only). 

Yep, I definitely need to modify the drawing to remove the rounded part at that corner. If you use more than 2 spacer layers above the switch plate, it will most definitely interfere with keycap movement.

It definitely did!  :p

[OneDudeWolfPack]

Will this be coming back again? I am interested in a stainless full hand ergodox case if it happens again.

[AKmalamute]

Will this be coming back again? I am interested in a stainless full hand ergodox case if it happens again.

I won't be in a place to make it happen any time soon. I mean, I'll reassess quarterly but I wouldn't expect to try before summer rolls around.

Which isn't to say someone else nearby couldn't make this happen. I've just got too much going on, and am trying to save my money for my other hobbies  -- motorcycle needs new tires, horse needs new saddle. Truck needs two grand worth of tires so I can go trail riding in the mountains.

Keyboards are trailing a ways, currently.

[ddevil]

Is the consensus to use plate mounted switches with this case?  I'm piecing together an ErgoDox and it will be the first board I've built.  I assume the PCB will also work fine with plate mounted switches?  I've also gotta do my research on what I need to do about stabilizers.

[Data]

Is the consensus to use plate mounted switches with this case?  I'm piecing together an ErgoDox and it will be the first board I've built.  I assume the PCB will also work fine with plate mounted switches?  I've also gotta do my research on what I need to do about stabilizers.

You can use either, but plate-mount might be a little easier.  PCB-mount switches can always be converted to plate with some snips. 

I found that forming a "soldering jig" with the 5 layers from the plate down (including JD spacers) resulted in a solid base to do my soldering from.  I also used plate-mount Cherry stabs and they worked beautifully.

[vivalarevolución]

Hey, if anyone was interested in this group buy, but did not get in, I am selling my aluminum plates from it.  OP or mod, please let me know if I am out of line by posting this in here:

https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=46277.0