Steampunk mini mechanical kitbash hack

[chimera15]

I had this on my workdesk for a long time now.   This came out of my modification thread in the modification area.  

 I finally got some time to work on it, and figured out how to mount the keys above the circuit board.  

This is a btc circuit board that usually has a conductive rubber switch over pcb.  I scraped off all the contacts on the board, soldered two leads to all of them, then mounted alps switches over the top, after cutting out the plate from another alps board, a m3501 apple board that I stole all the keys from to modify one of my siigs.  This hack was then done with all the white alps switches from that board that I pulled, and some real alps keys from another board.  All the keys that will be used the most have real alps, while all the normal letter keys have fake alps.

pics from the start of the construction:  

These where taken with a camera phone, so sorry for the blurriness.





I then added the plate I had cut out.  It's suspended over the circuit board with spacers made from epoxy putty:





Finally I soldered all the keys in.  I tested each one as I went to make sure there were no problems.




This board is fully functional now and working.  All I have to do now is build the case, which I think I'll use wood, and make keycaps.  I've won two ebay auctions for glass typewriter key sets which should be enough.  Going to be my first time playing with them.




Any suggestions from other people who have done steampunk mods would be helpful at this point.  Especially with making or modifying a spacebar.  I'm not sure an alps steampunk board has been made before....

Updated July 1st 2009

[lowpoly]

Looking good.

Was this a membrane 'board or rather a conductive rubber dome on pcb 'board?

[wheel83]

i have a lot of experience with 9/16" royal keys.  what do you want to know ?

[watduzhkstand4]

wow I love seeing these projects cuz they're just sick.

[chimera15]

i have a lot of experience with 9/16" royal keys.  what do you want to know ?

The auctions I've won all have flat backs.  What's the best way to mount them to the alps switches, and still have them be removable? I think I'm going to have to use epoxy putty to build a stem, or super glue them in or something which I don't want to do.  Is opening them and printing new labels for them easy or not?  How do I make a spacebar that looks old and cool and fits with them?

[chimera15]

Looking good.

Was this a membrane 'board or rather a conductive rubber dome on pcb 'board?

Yes, it was conductive rubber over pcb.

[chimera15]

That's a great idea for taking a membrane board and then soldering wires to the pads.  So was the soldering hard (no holes I assume to put the wire in or did you drill?)

Do you think this could be done with buckling springs?

I'm asking all this because I'm thinking I could start small by making a keyboard calculator with a $10 calculator board and a handfull of switches!

I haven't looked specifically at a buckling spring board before because it already did what I like, which is click...  I seem to recall just from memory though they have 3 contacts?  Either way, the scraping was a bit time consuming and you had a to have a delicate touch.  I almost ruined one key because I scraped too hard, but was able to solder over the gap I created.

I didn't drill because I don't think there was much point, since all the circuitry was on the top side of the board, and there's nothing to solder from underneath, or I would have done that.  I looked at doing that somehow for a long time, but ultimately just decided to solder wires onto the rubber contact points.  That's also why I had to find a way to lift the switches above the board, so they wouldn't hit the contacts as well.

 The quality of wire you use is also extremely important.  I started with some crappy solid stuff that sucked for soldering, it also tended to break off if flexed too much being solid.  Then I finally found my good silver stuff I got off ebay from alpha wire company, that's 32 awg, teflon coated, and stranded.  Awesome wire for doing this kind of work.  Was a relative breeze after that.

[chimera15]

I think I'm going to be forced to use epoxy putty to mount those keys.  Especially if I want to give them any sort of angle.  Going to be tough to get them all lined up.  Maybe if I oil the top of the switch before I mash the putty into them they'll be removable and wont stick to the switch...

[chimera15]

That's a great idea for taking a membrane board and then soldering wires to the pads.  So was the soldering hard (no holes I assume to put the wire in or did you drill?)

Do you think this could be done with buckling springs?

I'm asking all this because I'm thinking I could start small by making a keyboard calculator with a $10 calculator board and a handfull of switches!

I forgot to mention, the best thing about the method, is that I can move the location of the key function around as I want.  Right now I switched the caps lock and control position so it has a hhk layout, and moved the arrow keys to a standard cross location, where this board originally had them in an L layout.

I suppose I could even make this board dvorak this way if I wanted as well.

[IBI]

Especially with making or modifying a spacebar.  I'm not sure an alps steampunk board has been made before....

I'm farily sure I've seen an AT101 steampunked before, but a very quick search didn't turn up the link.

[wheel83]

the only way i see you able to mount the keys is cutting the actual key to about 9/16" then gluing the old key right on.

the BEST way to do is use a model m of course, and cut a circular inside stem, then this will actually go INTO the flat back key, and the 3 tabs around the back of the flat tab will fold right over.

I would suggest Model M's to anyone building "steampunk" keyboard.

[pfink]

I'm farily sure I've seen an AT101 steampunked before, but a very quick search didn't turn up the link.

Steampunked Dell AT101W (Black)

http://geekhack.org/showwiki.php?t=6035

[talis]

Second that.

I use the heavier gauge stuff for tube amps.  Teflon wire, silver coated - just awesome stuff.  Not that pricey if you get the surplus deals.

I find Kynar wire works well for these types of connections (single strand, but teflon coated).

If you can get your hands on one of these wirewrap tools (usually only a few dollars), there's usually a little wire stripper in the handle that makes it a breeze to strip the wire without nicking it :

[chimera15]

I find Kynar wire works well for these types of connections (single strand, but teflon coated).

If you can get your hands on one of these wirewrap tools (usually only a few dollars), there's usually a little wire stripper in the handle that makes it a breeze to strip the wire without nicking it :

Show Image

Yeah, kynar was what I tried first, it was nothing compared to the stranded stuff I got off ebay.  It also had a tendency to break, so no good.  I also have a wire wrapper, but wasn't really needed.  I use a special wire cutter that I notched a hole in the perfect size with a file.  It's a lot faster that way considering I had to make and strip like 170 wires or so.

[chimera15]

Steampunked Dell AT101W (Black)

http://geekhack.org/showwiki.php?t=6035

Yeah...  but he didn't change the keycaps, which is what the problem is...

[chimera15]

the only way i see you able to mount the keys is cutting the actual key to about 9/16" then gluing the old key right on.

the BEST way to do is use a model m of course, and cut a circular inside stem, then this will actually go INTO the flat back key, and the 3 tabs around the back of the flat tab will fold right over.

I would suggest Model M's to anyone building "steampunk" keyboard.

That's an idea...   I hadn't thought about cutting apart or modifying the original key, then glueing the typewriter key to it...   That's really the best way I would guess... Might be possible.  I'll have to look at different alps keys.  I know some alps keys have parts inside them which may lend to being cut out....  Might be worth a look.

  I really didn't want to use an m, since I wanted a true compact steampunk board.  There was one before but it used a scissors switch I think, not a clicky which doesn't seem right.



He used wood for the spacebar.. pretty sweet looking.  I might borrow that idea if I can't manipulate copper or brass or something...

[chimera15]

leather might be a possibility....

[chimera15]

Here's the link for that leather keyboard.

It's a Das.  A solution for worn lettering.

I'm pretty sure that one is a hhk lite 2 Japanese version....  That blogger got it wrong.  There's also another leather board that an artist made.

http://news.softpedia.com/newsImage/The-Gokukawa-Leather-Keyboard-Rich-but-Meaningless-3.jpg/

http://gizmodo.com/5016681/leather-keyboard-from-japanese-artist-only-for-expert-touch+typers



It might be nice if it feels cushiony, especially for a spacebar...  but I'd be afraid that the leather would wear pretty quickly, especially the soft leather they apparently used.  I might try it with a harder leather I have had for some time, but I think I'll try some copper or brass first...  The only thing I'd worry about with that is the weight.

[talis]

Yeah, kynar was what I tried first, it was nothing compared to the stranded stuff I got off ebay.  It also had a tendency to break, so no good.  I also have a wire wrapper, but wasn't really needed.  I use a special wire cutter that I notched a hole in the perfect size with a file.  It's a lot faster that way considering I had to make and strip like 170 wires or so.

I wasn't suggesting to wire wrap, just pointing out that there's a wire stripper tool in the handle.  

[chimera15]

Stupid bloggers --- yeah, you can see the missing CTRL key in the original pic.  The artist shoulda spent the extra bucks for a HHKB Pro though - musta taken him DAYS to do this.

My favorite would be wood keys - full shaped ones, not chiclets.  A little laser engraving and they'd never wear out.  Or just burn the symbols in somehow (lol, soldering iron) for a funkier look.  I've searched for them but plenty of chiclets, no real keys.

These modified hhk's are actually for sale for like $600...

http://translate.google.com/translate?langpair=ja|en&u=http://www.m-yokunaru.com/catalog_syousai_html/010300_gokukawa_keyboad.html

It's the same company that did the gold version of a Japanese keyboard:

http://209.85.225.132/translate_c?hl=en&langpair=ja|en&u=http://www.m-yokunaru.com/catalog_syousai_html/102_kirameki_keyboad.html&rurl=translate.google.com&usg=ALkJrhhWuZAl7Qb-ZHhKrEUbOQ84SPmPTQ



 The other one was made by an artist.

[chimera15]

I wasn't suggesting to wire wrap, just pointing out that there's a wire stripper tool in the handle.  

Show Image

Ah, that's interesting.  I didn't know that..it might have saved some time for me modifying a wire snip, but I think I like my method, one tool for everything. ;)

[chimera15]

Finally got the keycaps done.  I think it looks pretty cool as it is.  I have a dell bigfoot coming with black alps that I thought would make it look better, cause the white fakes in it now I thought might take away from the style, but looking at these photos I'm not sure if I should change them to blacks or not.  I really like the look of it right now.  Let me know what you all think.

It was quite a struggle to do the caps.  I had to cut the plastic keys down to stubs, then sand off the top which was curved so that it was flat so I could then mount the key.  Early on where I started a couple aren't exactly in line which I still have to fix.  The second set of keys didn't match the first that I bought and a lot were damaged, but I just barely managed to coble together enough that I think will work well and look good.

Now I just need to build some sort of case and a good spacebar, probably brass, or if I have to wood.  I have some legal ivory from a cameo sculpture I did a while ago which might work well, but I'm not sure I have a single piece that would work...

Also, anyone know what font the letter keys are in? I have to replace all the papers of the function and lock keys still.

Anyway, I really thought it would be difficult to type on, but it's extremely nice and fast.  Not having keycaps really amplifies the click of the switch and allows for very deep keytravel.   It's functionally really nice, maybe even nicer than my siigs.

[chimera15]

Ah thanks for the idea on the font.  

Yup the keys come off nicely, I reused the alps stem, and should work with any alps board technically.  

I've been using this board for about an hour now since I finished all the keys, and I have to say functionally it seems like it's the best board I own.  The keys are just like in the perfect spot and where I expect them to be.   They feel really familiar to me, maybe I was a writer in the 20's in a previous life? lol  I vaguely remember using a manual of my grandmother's in my youth, I suppose that's what it is.   I'm like uber fast on this board for some reason, I don't know what it is.  Maybe there's something to these round keycaps.  Maybe it's the weighting of them.

[o2dazone]

That's coming along real well
are the keytops firm enough to type on?

[chimera15]

One trip to Lowes later:





O2dazone, yes it's perfectly functional and I've been typing on it for like a day now.

The spacebar is all metal, and I had to add a spring so that it'd come back to open position. heh.  

The spacebar is from a door handle, and the wood is trimming.  I can see I may need to straighten some things out..not sure if it's just the angle I shot from or not.

I still need to figure something out for the lights now and some open areas.  I think I may add trimming above the function keys and have it continue into the light area...

[IBI]

Finally got the keycaps done.  I think it looks pretty cool as it is.  I have a dell bigfoot coming with black alps that I thought would make it look better, cause the white fakes in it now I thought might take away from the style, but looking at these photos I'm not sure if I should change them to blacks or not.  I really like the look of it right now.  Let me know what you all think.

I believe the fakes mostly use the same plunger design so if you really like the feeling of the fakes you could just swap the plungers rather than changing the whole switch.

Also, anyone know what font the letter keys are in? I have to replace all the papers of the function and lock keys still.

There are various font identifier websites on the web that let you determine which font it is by the various features of the letters, one of them may give you the answer.

[chimera15]

I believe the fakes mostly use the same plunger design so if you really like the feeling of the fakes you could just swap the plungers rather than changing the whole switch.



There are various font identifier websites on the web that let you determine which font it is by the various features of the letters, one of them may give you the answer.

Since the switches are simply soldered with two wires, I think it'd be easier just to replace the whole switch.  I think it'd take a lot longer and be more complex to pull just the plunger which may or may not work...  I've tried that before with fakes/reals and had differing success.


Alright, I'll look for the site if when I go through my fonts in photoshop it doesn't show up.  My main concern right now is trying to find something to mount the lighting and maybe staining or painting the wood.

[chimera15]

One trip to radioshack and some wood later. lol  I had to eliminate the scroll lock led cause radio shack only had 1 set of led holders.  What's scroll lock do anyway? lol

[itlnstln]

What's scroll lock do anyway? lol

For example, in MS Excel, when you turn on the Scroll Lock, the arrow keys scroll around the spread sheet instead of moving cells. It performs similar functions in other programs. It forces the arrow keys to scroll through a document rather than move the cursor (like in MS Word). Before scroll wheels, it was fairly handy if you were a heavy keyboard user; that is, if you use the keyboard shortcuts more than the mouse.

[microsoft windows]

In most modern programs Scroll Lock doesn't do much. However, in many MS-DOS applications and other old programs Scroll Lock will make the arrow keys scroll the page instead of moving the cursor.

[itlnstln]

In most modern programs Scroll Lock doesn't do much. However, in many MS-DOS applications and other old programs Scroll Lock will make the arrow keys scroll the page instead of moving the cursor.

It still does.

[chimera15]

Yeah, this keyboard has that functionality with the function key, so scroll lock is completely useless for this board.


Anyone notice that steampunked board in warehouse 13? Pretty sweet looking

I wonder if that's the original one with a different floor...

 Also a steampunked wacom tablet. lol




Anyway, working on the keys now, and I think I found the font. It's actually a Korean arial rounded font called Baekmuk Gulim. lol

Still waiting on my bigfoot black alps board.  I think I might have gotten a bumb seller. sigh

[chimera15]

So I finally got my at101w today.  I found out, oh my gosh! Black alps aren't clicky! duh! lol So I won't be able to use them in this unless I modify them, and I'm not sure I have enough clicky springs to do that or not..   I did get some nice keycaps to replace the ones on my siig though that were yellowed which I used to do this mod. Hehe



I don't like the feel of blacks much at all, compared to the cream/white dampers that I used to modify this siig they have almost no tactile bump at all.

[microsoft windows]

At least they make the computer record the right keystroke.

[Mercen_505]

Black Alps have (to me, at least) a really pleasant sound to them, but the lack of tactility really kills the experience. I got my AT101W, played around with it for a day, then tossed it in the closet with the other items of interest, waiting for the day when I can afford to buy a nice display case for my boards.

[chimera15]

At least they make the computer record the right keystroke.

What do you mean?   The white fakes that I used for the mod don't record wrong keystrokes?  What alps keys do that are working right?

[chimera15]

just an minor update on this thread.  I did finally add the third led.  I still haven't got it any more finished than it is now.  I need to still design and print out the new papers for the keys.  I did finally find the font but just haven't had time to get to it.   I also need to stain/paint the wood to give it it's final touch.  It's been working great for several months now and I've been using it almost every day.  It's a great board.