Lowering mounting plate to dismantle switches / switch matrix interference

[suicidal_orange]

I've been looking for a keyboard project to make and am noticing a pattern that switch mounting plates are much cheaper without the extra notches to dismantle MX switches without desoldering/removing them.

This got me thinking - is there any reason why the mounting plate can't be pushed down onto the PCB allowing access to the switches, then clipped back up when you're done?  It seems such a simple idea that I can't be the first person to have thought of it so I must be missing something or surely it would be more popular?

[Nuum]

Cherry MX switches have tiny clips that retain them to the plate, so you'd have to push all these clips in in order to push down the plate. Even if you make the plate thick enough so that the clips don't hook in, you would need quite some force to push it down and the force would need to be evenly distributed to keep the plate from bending.

[Oobly]

Some people have done that in order to open their switches, but it takes a lot of force and AFAIK it's only been done with small boards (Poker II, Keycool 84 or Noppoo Choc Mini IIRC). It's certainly possible, but you run the risk of damaging / bending the plate or damaging the switch tabs that hold the plate / switch together.

Ah, found a post by Ivan: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=36461.msg685323#msg685323

The biggest hassle is getting the plate back up again afterwards as you have to lever it up only using the outer edges and it takes a lot of force.

[suicidal_orange]

Thanks guys, I didn't think about many small clips at once requiring a lot of force.  Sounds like a good way to destroy some switches when the plate springs free, if it's not done very carefully.  Guess I'll have to cough up the extra cash for a slotted plate or find some other way of trying everything. 

Don't suppose there is a loaner program in the UK? )

[suicidal_orange]

Next thought on solving the same problem - is interference a problem on a keyboard switch matrix?

If not it should be possible to handwire the matrix with long enough wires that each switch can be removed from the plate, swapped, then put back.  This is an even cheaper option as it skips the PCB too!

[SpAmRaY]

Next thought on solving the same problem - is interference a problem on a keyboard switch matrix?

If not it should be possible to handwire the matrix with long enough wires that each switch can be removed from the plate, swapped, then put back.  This is an even cheaper option as it skips the PCB too!

That was one of the purposes behind melvang's enablers that were recently sold in a group buy.

https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=57511.0

[suicidal_orange]

Nice idea, certainly not cheap but a great option once you know what you want size wise but as with many interesting group buys I'm too late!

Do you know if he(?) went for mini PCBs to be tidy or because a mess of long wires would have caused interference though?  Hopefully he's just a little OCD )

[Melvang]

Nice idea, certainly not cheap but a great option once you know what you want size wise but as with many interesting group buys I'm too late!

Do you know if he(?) went for mini PCBs to be tidy or because a mess of long wires would have caused interference though?  Hopefully he's just a little OCD )

I went with the small size for a couple reasons.

1.  The size they were made at allows the pcb to be soldered to the switch and then installed into the plate.  The pcb will fit through both MX and Alps switch holes.  So you do not need to desolder to swap stems and springs if you allow a bit of slack in the wires.  It really doesn't need much.  All your really need is enough for the tabs on the top half of the housing to clear the plate. 

2.  The small size helps keep the price down with the fab shop I used.  That fab shop charges per square inch of PCB space.  So, you are not paying for space between keys, and blocks such as the alphanumeric block, navigation cluster, and the keypad.  They are currently available from techkeys.com, though the site currently appears to be down for maint.

[suicidal_orange]

I went with the small size for a couple reasons.
...
They are currently available from techkeys.com, though the site currently appears to be down for maint.

I found them on techkeys.us which is not down, glad to see they're still available as looks like a lot of work went into something so small   I guess they're meant to be used with modded switch tops so you don't need to remove the LED either?


What I was meaning about size though was the actual keyboard - I've always used a full-size standard layout but could I be just as productive on a TKL, 60% or even 40%?  Should I stick to QWERTY or use another layout?  Not to mention switch and keycap types... There are so many combinations and the only way to be sure which I prefer is to try them all. 

Sadly I did not win the Christmas lottery so I can't just buy one of everything, I need to find a "cheap" way to do this.  When I was looking at audio stuff I bought used and sold on what I didn't like for minimal loss, but you guys don't seem to sell your random group buy keyboards so I'm limited to gaming boards on ebay which only covers the switch and keycap profile parts.  I'm also in the UK so import tax is an issue...

In this situation I'm not looking for LEDs, tidy wiring, or a pretty case, just some usable plate mounted removable switches to experiment with.  Short wires would mean I'd have to be careful not to damage the wiring when popping a switch out so a big mess of over-long wires would be easier - but is interference going to be an issue?