NEW IBM Model M clicky Space Saving Keyboard (SSK), bolt-modded for durability

[fanpeople]

Very expensive, but NIB and bolt modded. I would personally go for the Industrial SSK being offered for a few hundred extra if I was willing to spend this much. Probably not a great find, but NIB (except for the fact that it has bolt mod).


http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-IBM-Model-M-clicky-Space-Saving-Keyboard-SSK-bolt-modded-for-durability-/291340964560?pt=PCA_Mice_Trackballs&hash=item43d54652d0

[fohat.digs]

1 avid collector does excellent work and was driven away from Geekhack twice by people flaming him for his prices.

He uses only the highest quality materials, and has even had styrofoam inserts fabricated for his full-size M reconstructions.

To me, it is very perplexing how some people react to craftsmen.

For example, I enjoy getting my hands dirty at the work bench and the emotional satisfaction of taking a dirty old cast-off and transforming it into something special. Having re-furbished dozens of ancient IBM warhorses, I know exactly what goes into it, and have long since given up attempting to do it for a profit. The time and materials and effort are too great to simply give away.

Although theoretically "a bolt-mod" could be done in an hour or 2, it is really an all-afternoon project when it is all said and done with the cleaning, tinkering, and (usually) multiple assemblies.

$100+ profit after expenses, shipping, etc, is not unreasonable in the least.

[Xonar]

I suspect we'll be seeing another very high quality bolt modded NIB Model M from him soon as well. 1 avid collector is buying my NIB Blue Label. Glad it's going to someone like him, because I wanted to find a better home for it than I could provide.

[fanpeople]

1 avid collector does excellent work and was driven away from Geekhack twice by people flaming him for his prices.

He uses only the highest quality materials, and has even had styrofoam inserts fabricated for his full-size M reconstructions.

To me, it is very perplexing how some people react to craftsmen.

For example, I enjoy getting my hands dirty at the work bench and the emotional satisfaction of taking a dirty old cast-off and transforming it into something special. Having re-furbished dozens of ancient IBM warhorses, I know exactly what goes into it, and have long since given up attempting to do it for a profit. The time and materials and effort are too great to simply give away.

Although theoretically "a bolt-mod" could be done in an hour or 2, it is really an all-afternoon project when it is all said and done with the cleaning, tinkering, and (usually) multiple assemblies.

$100+ profit after expenses, shipping, etc, is not unreasonable in the least.

There is obviously some history here that I am unaware of, not attempting to offend anyone one if that is the case. My opinion is that for most people spending almost $600 is probably not within their price range/interests hence this listing is not really a great find for the bulk majority. But I posted it as I figured there may be someone out there looking for a new SSK with a bolt mod (I would love to pick this board up and I wish I could afford to spend the money, but I am one of the bulk majority).

[rowdy]

The way the old IBM keyboards last, if this one is NIB and bolt-modded, it should last for at least another 30 years, maybe even 50 years if care is taken.

Edit: I don't think I could bring myself to open that new coiled cable )

[fohat.digs]

Edit: I don't think I could bring myself to open that new coiled cable

Cindy (elecplus) had a couple of dozen new coiled cables, and I doubt that she has sold them all yet.

Unfortunately, bolt-modding often almost "lowers" the value of a Model M because of the loud rudeness of many of us (myself NOT included) who like to buy cheap and do it ourselves. The standard mantra of collectors is to say "don't do anything to an old piece - don't even clean it" because so many old things can be easily damaged and degraded.

For a person who has little or no experience or capability with simple tools and construction, a cleaned, adjusted, bolt-modded M for approximately the same price as a Filco or a DAS keyboard is a perfectly legitimate purchase, and is likely to last longer.

[rowdy]

One of my Model Ms had about a dozen rivets fall out of the case when I opened it.  One side of the keyboard feels tight and right to type on, the other side feels loose and rattly.

One day I would like to try doing a bolt mod, but with the amount of time I have I'd need to have somewhere to store it disassembled for at least a month.  For me it would be quicker and simpler to pay someone else to do it, or to simply buy a keyboard that had been properly bolt-modded.

Fortunately I have my other Model M that I am typing this on which doesn't seem to need a bolt mod (yet).

[fanpeople]

One of my Model Ms had about a dozen rivets fall out of the case when I opened it.  One side of the keyboard feels tight and right to type on, the other side feels loose and rattly.

One day I would like to try doing a bolt mod, but with the amount of time I have I'd need to have somewhere to store it disassembled for at least a month.  For me it would be quicker and simpler to pay someone else to do it, or to simply buy a keyboard that had been properly bolt-modded.

Fortunately I have my other Model M that I am typing this on which doesn't seem to need a bolt mod (yet).

They can always come live with me............. forever........ in my garage.

[rowdy]

One of my Model Ms had about a dozen rivets fall out of the case when I opened it.  One side of the keyboard feels tight and right to type on, the other side feels loose and rattly.

One day I would like to try doing a bolt mod, but with the amount of time I have I'd need to have somewhere to store it disassembled for at least a month.  For me it would be quicker and simpler to pay someone else to do it, or to simply buy a keyboard that had been properly bolt-modded.

Fortunately I have my other Model M that I am typing this on which doesn't seem to need a bolt mod (yet).

They can always come live with me............. forever........ in my garage.

You live in your garage?

[fohat.digs]

I'd need to have somewhere to store it disassembled for at least a month.

Opening it up and cutting it apart is pretty easy and straightforward.

From my experience, the fussy technical part is whether you can drill several dozen very small holes clean, accurate, and vertical.
Keeping the bit from "walking" is the truly crucial element. I hold a common Dremel with both hands and go with the slowest possible speed.

Assuming that this has been accomplished satisfactorily, the tedious and frustrating part is re-assembly. Keeping the springs and parts perfectly in place while screwing 6 layers together is not easy and requires care. Then all the keys stems have to be re-inserted to test, and, if even one of them does not work, they all have to be removed and you do it again.

Everything else is totally simple and straightforward. Even the way that I clean every component spotless, nothing to it.

[fanpeople]

One of my Model Ms had about a dozen rivets fall out of the case when I opened it.  One side of the keyboard feels tight and right to type on, the other side feels loose and rattly.

One day I would like to try doing a bolt mod, but with the amount of time I have I'd need to have somewhere to store it disassembled for at least a month.  For me it would be quicker and simpler to pay someone else to do it, or to simply buy a keyboard that had been properly bolt-modded.

Fortunately I have my other Model M that I am typing this on which doesn't seem to need a bolt mod (yet).

They can always come live with me............. forever........ in my garage.

You live in your garage?

Give me all your keyboards and I will tell you.

[berserkfan]

Assuming that this has been accomplished satisfactorily, the tedious and frustrating part is re-assembly. Keeping the springs and parts perfectly in place while screwing 6 layers together is not easy and requires care. Then all the keys stems have to be re-inserted to test, and, if even one of them does not work, they all have to be removed and you do it again.

Everything else is totally simple and straightforward. Even the way that I clean every component spotless, nothing to it.

Fohat, do you use a toothbrush? What cleaning agents do you use? I have a Model M that can't seem to get clean and I'm really getting fed up. As you know the barrel plate is full of bumps and irregularities, so it's hard to scrub with a toothbrush and so far standard alcohol isn't working.

[fohat.digs]

As you know the barrel plate is full of bumps and irregularities, so it's hard to scrub with a toothbrush

I use a toothbrush if I have to. I clean everything that can take getting wet in the kitchen sink with hot soapy water. My sink also has a sprayer on a hose that is very helpful. On rare occasions I take large plastic parts into the shower with me.

There is also soaking it for hours in a bucket.

[dante]

The price is spot on.

While it's true that modding your own is best - these keyboards are works of art; if you don't have the confidence that you'll do a better than average job then leave it to a pro.

There's no shame in not wanting to ruin a Mona Lisa.

[RoflCopter4]

How do you know if your board needs a bolt mod anyway? How can I tell that rivets are broken without having to open the case? I actually have a 7/32 inch nut driver but the head of it is too fat to fit into the recesses in the keyboard where the bolts are, so it's useless.

[Xonar]

How do you know if your board needs a bolt mod anyway? How can I tell that rivets are broken without having to open the case? I actually have a 7/32 inch nut driver but the head of it is too fat to fit into the recesses in the keyboard where the bolts are, so it's useless.

Shake it around a bit. If you hear rattling, you've got some loose rivets. They may have all fallen out of the case so you might not hear anything, though. Generally, your board doesn't NEED a bolt mod until you have inconsistency in key feeling, non-responsive keys in a specific area, etc. It's a good idea to do one anyway to futureproof the keyboard and make it feel like new.

[rowdy]

Opening it up and cutting it apart is pretty easy and straightforward.

From my experience, the fussy technical part is whether you can drill several dozen very small holes clean, accurate, and vertical.
Keeping the bit from "walking" is the truly crucial element. I hold a common Dremel with both hands and go with the slowest possible speed.

Assuming that this has been accomplished satisfactorily, the tedious and frustrating part is re-assembly. Keeping the springs and parts perfectly in place while screwing 6 layers together is not easy and requires care. Then all the keys stems have to be re-inserted to test, and, if even one of them does not work, they all have to be removed and you do it again.

Everything else is totally simple and straightforward. Even the way that I clean every component spotless, nothing to it.

I have disassembled my more fragile M in order to construct a new fixed PS/2 cable, the original having been cut off a few cm from the edge of the case (I have a build log around here somewhere).  Taking things apart and putting them back together is not much of a problem for me.

The bit in bold in your (always very helpful) remarks above is the bit that would cause me the most problems.

I have no Dremel, for a start.  The closest I have is an ordinary power drill that does not have a speed setting, and thus would probably melt the barrel plate, assuming I could even hold it still enough.

Which gets me to the main point - if you are serious about doing this, and doing this several times over, then investing in the proper equipment, such as a drill press, would pay itself off in no time.  Hence my acceptance of the price of these keyboards if they are done right, and it certainly sounds like this one has been done right!

[fohat.digs]

I have no Dremel, for a start.  The closest I have is an ordinary power drill that does not have a speed setting, and thus would probably melt the barrel plate, assuming I could even hold it still enough.

You need something that you can hold with both hands, then put your safety glasses on top of your reading glasses and get in very close. Being able to maneuver and place it accurately is key. Hence my recommendation for slow speeds and sharp bits.

In theory, a small drill press would be perfect, but you would have to be very careful to ensure that you hit the perfect spot.

These thing go very cheap sometimes, especially from China, and are quite handy:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-80-pc-High-Speed-Rotary-Tool-Kit-Fits-Dremel-Bits-Hobby-Model-Kit-Set-/281328973207?pt=Power_Tools&hash=item4180837597

[bowji]

After seeing the high price of that listing, I've been digging around to learn a bit more about Model M SSKs and I was curious how much of an influence the label color has on spacesavers. From what I can find out, blue label Model M (full-sized boards) are produced after the 1990s and is less desirable than white labels. Does the same apply for spacesavers? What other differences is there for label color (white/blue/others?) for spacesavers other than production dates? There seems to be articles on how certain spacesavers have different switch feel so I was wandering if the PN or label had any influence.

[madhias]

Even if they are bolt modded and have a nice package (not only NIB model he sells) i find his prices way too high. He told us more than once why his prices are that high, and then you'll understand a little bit why he wants that much for his keyboards. You also pay for his pictures he makes for his sales for example.

[fohat.digs]

What other differences is there for label color (white/blue/others?) for spacesavers other than production dates?

Personally, the single component that might seem to make the most difference is the extra-heavy steel back plate. For standard Ms, the first plate weight reduction happened about 1987-88 at different times at different plants.

I have only had one SSK, a 1991 beige label, but I think that they were made at least as far back as 1988. Whether any of them had the heavy plates, I don't know.

You used to be able to get 1390120s cheap, if I could get one now I might cut the plate for my 1991. That mod, along with a white latex blanket from Unicomp (an easy scissors cut compared to the hacksaw nightmare) would be everything I wanted.

[bowji]

More

What other differences is there for label color (white/blue/others?) for spacesavers other than production dates?

Personally, the single component that might seem to make the most difference is the extra-heavy steel back plate. For standard Ms, the first plate weight reduction happened about 1987-88 at different times at different plants.

I have only had one SSK, a 1991 beige label, but I think that they were made at least as far back as 1988. Whether any of them had the heavy plates, I don't know.

You used to be able to get 1390120s cheap, if I could get one now I might cut the plate for my 1991. That mod, along with a white latex blanket from Unicomp (an easy scissors cut compared to the hacksaw nightmare) would be everything I wanted.

I never knew the construction of the boards would be different, thought they all had standard back plates. At most, I only thought the manufacturing process and cosmetics were the differences in different labels. Thanks for the insight <3

[fohat.digs]

thought they all had standard back plates.

The plates were thinned and lightened about 1987-88 and again in the early 1990s. I have had a couple of late 1990s Greenocks that seemed even lighter, but maybe that is my imagination.

[dorkvader]

I have only had one SSK, a 1991 beige label, but I think that they were made at least as far back as 1988. Whether any of them had the heavy plates, I don't know.

You used to be able to get 1390120s cheap, if I could get one now I might cut the plate for my 1991. That mod, along with a white latex blanket from Unicomp (an easy scissors cut compared to the hacksaw nightmare) would be everything I wanted.

They were, The one I did for CPTbadass was 1987 and had an excellent plate. you can see some more in the SSK archive project:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0Amwr_8tmy8pZdDAtWExCUzlma2Qzc0hCY3hzUExFZFE#gid=0

You can "stack" a few of the newer thin plates for a similar effect, but if you do this, you run into some assembly difficulty and you also might need longer bolts.

[dante]

You used to be able to get 1390120s cheap ...

The popularity of these goes in spurts.  Sometimes they pile up on ebay - and others it's listed as out of stock after you click 'buy it now'.