Author Topic: WASD V2 with Green Switches - A tedious experience - My first keyboard soldering  (Read 10526 times)

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Offline KHAANNN

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Hi everyone,

I just got my WASD V2 with green switches (opened it up like 4 hours ago, after waiting 2 weeks for the international shipping and customs processes), I already had one with red switches, but I got the green ones as I loved them from the sample pack
I hated the blue switch, as it didn't produce a clear click sound (as I see now, that blue switch was slightly faulty too, these green switches are a bit extreme, sometimes I leave the keys unpressed after using the red switches for a while, the red switches were too soft for me, I got the green as the blue sound wasn't strong enough, but my blue sample switch was also sub-optimal/faulty, my luck, I can see that now)

So I opened up the keyboard, all black keys except a green Esc key, a beauty, and started testing every single key, all beautiful, but what is that, the last key I tested, the right arrow key, was acting like a red switch!! my nightmare started at that point

Removed the key, inspected/compared the switch, it was definitely faulty, it was very soft and it didn't click but rather hissed weakly instead, it really threw me off, so I decided to do something about it

I've been reading about how to remove the keys without de-soldering, so after I got convinced I can't fix the issue by clicking the key 1000+ times, I decided to remove the stem and replace it with the only additional green stem/spring I got, the top of the switch was impossible to remove, after 2 hours of trials and re-trials, i got pretty frustrated, destroyed the top of the switch and ended up pulling the switch from the PCB, a relief and a nightmare at the same time, but I'm glad it happened (in the meantime, I built several tools to remove the stem-holder, none worked, I also tested nudging the switch into clicking, it didn't work either, yet I learned that these cherry mx switches are very sturdy, my failed attempt always left the keypresses working)
(It's impossible to remove the stem, as the metal housing locks switches in place, so don't even try it, the switch got destroyed before the hinges gave up (my tools were able to open sample switches easily, so it wasn't a tool issue, imo) )

So I stumbled onto this website https://monda.hu/2011/01/01/filco-majestouch-tenkeyless-tactile-touch-fkbn87meb-disassembly luckily, as no one seems to have documented the WASD V2 opening process, the keyboards are pretty similar, I removed the rubber pads to check for additional screws, but there is only 1 screw, the top plastic is easy to remove, I will share that process later on

Anyway I opened up the keyboard easily, removed the existing soldering, re-soldered the only green switch I have, tested the keyboard, it worked, got really happy, and started using the keyboard! :D (It took 4 hours, I first went to hell then returned back to heaven)

My Observations:
  • Mechanical keyboards have a lot of issues that needs solving, my red WASD V2 had balancer clicking issues, my green one had not-clicking issues
  • Cherry MX switches aren't homogenous, extra keys and manual replacements are necessary (if you are obsessed with perfection)
  • This green keys are very stiff, especially after using tools for 4 hours to fix issues, my fingers are hurting, but I'm sure I will adapt, it's very fun to write with the keyboard
  • It's easy to open up the keyboard, fix issues, yet I noticed that the top plastic cap is weak, the hinges will break eventually, extra top plastic caps should be bought for future repairs - if possible
  • If I had to do it all over again, I would buy one with blue switches and a lot of spare parts, lube, spare switches with the purchase, open up the keyboard, replace weak switches with optimal ones
  • Get the slimmest yet strongest O-rings you can buy, as huge o-rings sometimes slide down and block the key


Anyway I feel very confident now that I solved the issue, and got experience to solve future switch issues easily, yet both of my WASD keyboard purchases had minor but major issues like this one that needs manual intervention, I couldn't just open up the package and enjoy the experience, my next keyboard attempt might be a Leopold FC750R with blue switches (Although it might as well be another WASD V2 with blue switches, as I already have excess amounts of WASD V2's and spare parts ...)

I will post again to this thread with photos/pointers on how to open up the WASD V2, so future DIY'ers won't have issues with the process
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Offline rowdy

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Did you consider attempting to return the keyboard under warranty?  Although I guess if you were waiting for international shipping and customs that might have caused more problems than it would have solved.

Congratulations on finally fixing it!

Most plates do not allow switch top removal, although you can get custom plates that do.  To replace such plates would require desoldering ALL the switches, swap plates (if the plate is compatible with the keyboard, then resolder all the switches.  A fairly significant job.

Mechanical keyboards generally have a discrete switch for each key, so yes, replacing them is one of the benefits.  No longer do we have to discard a keyboard because one switch no longer works - just replace the switch and as good as new!

The occasional malfunctioning switch is not unheard of, although I think somewhere someone said that companies check that each switch works as in registers the character, not necessarily that each one has exactly the same force as all the others, and generates exactly the same sound.  Some slight variation is not uncommon.
"Because keyboards are accessories to PC makers, they focus on minimizing the manufacturing costs. But thatís incorrect. Itís in HHKBís slogan, but when Americaís cowboys were in the middle of a trip and their horse died, they would leave the horse there. But even if they were in the middle of a desert, they would take their saddle with them. The horse was a consumable good, but the saddle was an interface that their bodies had gotten used to. In the same vein, PCs are consumable goods, while keyboards are important interfaces." - Eiiti Wada

NEC APC-H4100E | Ducky DK9008 Shine MX blue LED red | Ducky DK9008 Shine MX blue LED green | Link 900243-08 | CM QFR MX black | KeyCool 87 white MX reds | HHKB 2 Pro | Model M 02-Mar-1993 | Model M 29-Nov-1995 | CM Trigger (broken) | CM QFS MX green | Ducky DK9087 Shine 3 TKL Yellow Edition MX black | Lexmark SSK 21-Apr-1994 | IBM SSK 13-Oct-1987 | CODE TKL MX clear | Model M 122 01-Jun-1988

Ị̸͚̯̲́ͤ̃͑̇̑ͯ̊̂͟ͅs̞͚̩͉̝̪̲͗͊ͪ̽̚̚ ̭̦͖͕̑́͌ͬͩ͟t̷̻͔̙̑͟h̹̠̼͋ͤ͋i̤̜̣̦̱̫͈͔̞ͭ͑ͥ̌̔s̬͔͎̍̈ͥͫ̐̾ͣ̔̇͘ͅ ̩̘̼͆̐̕e̞̰͓̲̺̎͐̏ͬ̓̅̾͠͝ͅv̶̰͕̱̞̥̍ͣ̄̕e͕͙͖̬̜͓͎̤̊ͭ͐͝ṇ̰͎̱̤̟̭ͫ͌̌͢͠ͅ ̳̥̦ͮ̐ͤ̎̊ͣ͡͡n̤̜̙̺̪̒͜e̶̻̦̿ͮ̂̀c̝̘̝͖̠̖͐ͨͪ̈̐͌ͩ̀e̷̥͇̋ͦs̢̡̤ͤͤͯ͜s͈̠̉̑͘a̱͕̗͖̳̥̺ͬͦͧ͆̌̑͡r̶̟̖̈͘ỷ̮̦̩͙͔ͫ̾ͬ̔ͬͮ̌?̵̘͇͔͙ͥͪ͞ͅ

Offline KHAANNN

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After paying 70$+ for shipping and ~60$ for customs, returning isn't too logical, I've never sent an item back internationally yet, I was also very anxious to make it work, voided the warranty in no time

I've also not written back to WASD yet, maybe they could offer some compensation, they also promised some extra o-rings since one o-ring was missing from my last keyboard, I also requested additional customized ",< .>" keys but they were all missing (on the other hand, they customised the ",< .<" keys for me, I wanted ", ." slightly higher, so that goes to the plus-side of things)

I really enjoyed the broad sound of bottomed-out reds in the background when I'm listening to music, greens on the other hand sound too itchy, as the bottoming out is silent and the click is very low-frequency/piercing, so I might return back to red's eventually, but I will give these keys a week before I go back
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Offline rowdy

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Fair enough.

I quite like greens - the noise is part of their appeal.  Although if you don't like noisy keyboards, then no, greens are not for you.

Most keyboards will have bottoming out sounds depending on how hard you hit the keys.  I have fairly strong fingers, and bottom out all the time, including on the greens and on the MX blacks I am using now.

Although my keyboard is resting on a folded sheet of drawer liner which mutes most of the thump and echo from the desk.
"Because keyboards are accessories to PC makers, they focus on minimizing the manufacturing costs. But thatís incorrect. Itís in HHKBís slogan, but when Americaís cowboys were in the middle of a trip and their horse died, they would leave the horse there. But even if they were in the middle of a desert, they would take their saddle with them. The horse was a consumable good, but the saddle was an interface that their bodies had gotten used to. In the same vein, PCs are consumable goods, while keyboards are important interfaces." - Eiiti Wada

NEC APC-H4100E | Ducky DK9008 Shine MX blue LED red | Ducky DK9008 Shine MX blue LED green | Link 900243-08 | CM QFR MX black | KeyCool 87 white MX reds | HHKB 2 Pro | Model M 02-Mar-1993 | Model M 29-Nov-1995 | CM Trigger (broken) | CM QFS MX green | Ducky DK9087 Shine 3 TKL Yellow Edition MX black | Lexmark SSK 21-Apr-1994 | IBM SSK 13-Oct-1987 | CODE TKL MX clear | Model M 122 01-Jun-1988

Ị̸͚̯̲́ͤ̃͑̇̑ͯ̊̂͟ͅs̞͚̩͉̝̪̲͗͊ͪ̽̚̚ ̭̦͖͕̑́͌ͬͩ͟t̷̻͔̙̑͟h̹̠̼͋ͤ͋i̤̜̣̦̱̫͈͔̞ͭ͑ͥ̌̔s̬͔͎̍̈ͥͫ̐̾ͣ̔̇͘ͅ ̩̘̼͆̐̕e̞̰͓̲̺̎͐̏ͬ̓̅̾͠͝ͅv̶̰͕̱̞̥̍ͣ̄̕e͕͙͖̬̜͓͎̤̊ͭ͐͝ṇ̰͎̱̤̟̭ͫ͌̌͢͠ͅ ̳̥̦ͮ̐ͤ̎̊ͣ͡͡n̤̜̙̺̪̒͜e̶̻̦̿ͮ̂̀c̝̘̝͖̠̖͐ͨͪ̈̐͌ͩ̀e̷̥͇̋ͦs̢̡̤ͤͤͯ͜s͈̠̉̑͘a̱͕̗͖̳̥̺ͬͦͧ͆̌̑͡r̶̟̖̈͘ỷ̮̦̩͙͔ͫ̾ͬ̔ͬͮ̌?̵̘͇͔͙ͥͪ͞ͅ

Offline KHAANNN

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After removing the o-rings, the keyboard started to really shine, I'm really enjoying each click now

The o-rings were making bottoming out pretty hard, it was like 120+cn instead of 80cn, as the o-ring absorbs a lot of force until the key completely bottoms out, and I tend to bottom out completely

The o-rings were also preventing the click action on some keys, causing the click to be incomplete, causing audial discomfort, making non-perfect switches stand out

IMO, o-rings would only make sense on a clicky keyboard if the switches were homogenous, yet this is not the case with Cherry's it seems, some switches have weak clicks if you don't bottom them out, let them complete their action
Maybe very very slim and hard o-rings would not cause these issues, yet I haven't seen any o-rings like that

Definitely no o-rings for blue/green switches for me from now on, o-rings make a lot of sense for linear switches, yet for other switches they only cause paranoia, imo

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Offline saturnotaku

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If you bottom out a lot, consider a 55g Realforce 87U for your next keyboard.  ;D

Offline KHAANNN

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If you bottom out a lot, consider a 55g Realforce 87U for your next keyboard.  ;D

I did :D

None of the topre keyboards were compatible with my usages, I switch the command/alt keys for mac usage, on this keyboard the command key is pretty small, and I don't want to switch them from the OS and use them visually reverse

The smaller topre model was also appealing, yet I use both the Esc and "`~" keys heavily, so eliminated that too

But I'm still really curious about topre's

WASD V2 with green switches is actually perfect right now, after the o-rings are removed the only issue remaining is the space bar switch, I'm not sure whether the click sound is naturally that distinct from the keycap dynamics/wide key, or the switch is a bit weak

It would be great if these WASD's were easy to open, yet It seems the top-lid hinges might give up and break, so opening up the keyboard again is not appealing, I asked them for replacement top lid's in case it breaks, yet they didn't reply yet

From this perspective KUL-87's seem nice, they certainly considered my scenario, as their label has "no screws under" warning :D I removed the label to search for screws on this keyboard, also their keyboard enclosure seems robust, optimal for tinkering, yet no one has their green-switched model in stock
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Offline CPTBadAss

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Congrats on learning how to solder :). I know how good it feels to have fixed or built something because I'm perpetually fixing an issue like you're saying haha. I've had too many panicked moments while working on keyboards.

Offline rowdy

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I wonder if thinner O-rings would help.

Although personally I like the bottoming out sound on these MX greens, especially with SA profile keycaps.
"Because keyboards are accessories to PC makers, they focus on minimizing the manufacturing costs. But thatís incorrect. Itís in HHKBís slogan, but when Americaís cowboys were in the middle of a trip and their horse died, they would leave the horse there. But even if they were in the middle of a desert, they would take their saddle with them. The horse was a consumable good, but the saddle was an interface that their bodies had gotten used to. In the same vein, PCs are consumable goods, while keyboards are important interfaces." - Eiiti Wada

NEC APC-H4100E | Ducky DK9008 Shine MX blue LED red | Ducky DK9008 Shine MX blue LED green | Link 900243-08 | CM QFR MX black | KeyCool 87 white MX reds | HHKB 2 Pro | Model M 02-Mar-1993 | Model M 29-Nov-1995 | CM Trigger (broken) | CM QFS MX green | Ducky DK9087 Shine 3 TKL Yellow Edition MX black | Lexmark SSK 21-Apr-1994 | IBM SSK 13-Oct-1987 | CODE TKL MX clear | Model M 122 01-Jun-1988

Ị̸͚̯̲́ͤ̃͑̇̑ͯ̊̂͟ͅs̞͚̩͉̝̪̲͗͊ͪ̽̚̚ ̭̦͖͕̑́͌ͬͩ͟t̷̻͔̙̑͟h̹̠̼͋ͤ͋i̤̜̣̦̱̫͈͔̞ͭ͑ͥ̌̔s̬͔͎̍̈ͥͫ̐̾ͣ̔̇͘ͅ ̩̘̼͆̐̕e̞̰͓̲̺̎͐̏ͬ̓̅̾͠͝ͅv̶̰͕̱̞̥̍ͣ̄̕e͕͙͖̬̜͓͎̤̊ͭ͐͝ṇ̰͎̱̤̟̭ͫ͌̌͢͠ͅ ̳̥̦ͮ̐ͤ̎̊ͣ͡͡n̤̜̙̺̪̒͜e̶̻̦̿ͮ̂̀c̝̘̝͖̠̖͐ͨͪ̈̐͌ͩ̀e̷̥͇̋ͦs̢̡̤ͤͤͯ͜s͈̠̉̑͘a̱͕̗͖̳̥̺ͬͦͧ͆̌̑͡r̶̟̖̈͘ỷ̮̦̩͙͔ͫ̾ͬ̔ͬͮ̌?̵̘͇͔͙ͥͪ͞ͅ

Offline KHAANNN

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Congrats on learning how to solder :). I know how good it feels to have fixed or built something because I'm perpetually fixing an issue like you're saying haha. I've had too many panicked moments while working on keyboards.

Thanks, indeed.

Thinner o-rings might make things better, I tested WASD's thinner o-rings on one of the keys, the experience was the same, so thicker o-rings are not needed at all (thinner o-rings muffle the bottom out out almost the same) - I think clicky keyboards sound much much stronger, fuller with the bottom out sound, so I won't add any more o-rings

I've also reached out to WASD Keyboards about the issue, they are going to send a replacement keyboard enclosure with my next order (I ordered many mx switches, so I can replace the ones I don't like much)

Anyway, this was a very learning experience for me, in the end I found what I was looking for and I will likely be able to maintain the functionality for long

I would suggest WASD Keyboards for future potential buyers, their customer service is very willing to solve issues
« Last Edit: Fri, 20 February 2015, 04:09:10 by KHAANNN »
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Offline KHAANNN

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Here are some photos of the internals, in case anyone need to open theirs
It's a good idea to first unlatch the back hinges by pushing the upper case in each time with something like a screwdriver, that won't damage the plastic much, then do the same for the side hinges, and then leave the front hinges alone and rather gently pull the case up, unlocking the hinges (this would leave the front of the case undamaged, I started with the front, so my upper case is very slightly nudged, I was lucky, the process is very risky) (I should have also taken a photo of the upper plastic, but I somehow missed it : )
There is only one actual screw, that is protected by a "don't remove" sticker
91368-0
91370-1
91372-2
91374-3
« Last Edit: Fri, 20 February 2015, 07:53:46 by KHAANNN »
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Offline sl33py

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Hey guys, just trying to confirm from others who have opened a V2 - I want to buy a V2, but will most likely want to modify the switches. Either:
- buy blues and jailhouse them (involves opening each switch and adding some wire between the slider parts)
- buy clears and make them ergo-clears (swapping out the spring for one from an MX red)

So my question is: Is it possible to open the switches in a V2 keyboard without desoldering and resoldering? I'm able to easily open the switches on my WASD switch tester, but that is because the switches are completely removable from the metal casing (just by pushing). On my 'maxkeyboard' switch tester, they are soldered onto a PCB, but there is no keyboard housing over them, so they are also very easy to open. From the photos khan posted above, it looks like the switches sit INTO the keyboard casing, and I can't tell if they are removable. I ASSUME they are also soldered into a PCB underneath that top plate.

I'm more than happy to spend time pulling apart switches and swapping/adding parts. But I'm cr4ppy with a soldering iron and don't really want to solder after spending as much as these KBs cost in the first place. I'm thinking plain old browns will be the go if the above is a no-go.
« Last Edit: Mon, 04 July 2016, 23:16:44 by sl33py »

Offline KHAANNN

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Hey guys, just trying to confirm from others who have opened a V2 - I want to buy a V2, but will most likely want to modify the switches. Either:
- buy blues and jailhouse them (involves opening each switch and adding some wire between the slider parts)
- buy clears and make them ergo-clears (swapping out the spring for one from an MX red)

So my question is: Is it possible to open the switches in a V2 keyboard without desoldering and resoldering? I'm able to easily open the switches on my WASD switch tester, but that is because the switches are completely removable from the metal casing (just by pushing). On my 'maxkeyboard' switch tester, they are soldered onto a PCB, but there is no keyboard housing over them, so they are also very easy to open. From the photos khan posted above, it looks like the switches sit INTO the keyboard casing, and I can't tell if they are removable. I ASSUME they are also soldered into a PCB underneath that top plate.

I'm more than happy to spend time pulling apart switches and swapping/adding parts. But I'm cr4ppy with a soldering iron and don't really want to solder after spending as much as these KBs cost in the first place. I'm thinking plain old browns will be the go if the above is a no-go.

Hi

You can't remove the switch tops, the plate locks the switches (not all the plates do, this one does, I like plates that lock the switches, they wobble less)

If you want to remove the switches, definitely buy one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-Digital-Desoldering-Station-Built/dp/B00ABJ4AEC (There are cheap ones that work well, but I just couldn't find mine with a quick search)

It's a life changer, I desoldered my V2 with a basic pump, when I got the machine, I mourned the labor
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Offline csmertx

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If you want to desolder 10+ keyboards that desoldering station could come in handy? I don't know, that $175 desoldering station seems a bit excessive for desoldering the switches on one keyboard.
More
 / another 3d keyboard model thread / BSD thread / github / falotalt
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...Especially the Florida cousins, who obviously can't take a hint.

Offline KHAANNN

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If you want to desolder 10+ keyboards that desoldering station could come in handy? I don't know, that $175 desoldering station seems a bit excessive for desoldering the switches on one keyboard.

It's a small price to pay for something so useful, imo

It definitely increased my life quality, it was also a nice experience, especially the first sip, it was so exciting

I remember there being ~$70 or something versions of the device, yet I can't see any now

It's also not just keyboards, you can desolder anything you want
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Offline sl33py

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Thanks for the info/suggestion Khaaaaan. Unfortunately the desoldering kit would be a bit extravagant for me for the $.

I was hoping not to have to solder, but really want a WASD. I've ordered the Zealios sampler set and figure out which I like. If I'm going to desolder, I'm going to make it feel as perfect as I can (judging by the feedback here). Clears were a bit crunchy with other springs...

This frees me up to try whatever switch I want. I suspect browns *might* do the job for me without any modding, so will give them a try when I order, might save me some time/effort if I like them as is.

Offline KHAANNN

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Thanks for the info/suggestion Khaaaaan. Unfortunately the desoldering kit would be a bit extravagant for me for the $.

I was hoping not to have to solder, but really want a WASD. I've ordered the Zealios sampler set and figure out which I like. If I'm going to desolder, I'm going to make it feel as perfect as I can (judging by the feedback here). Clears were a bit crunchy with other springs...

This frees me up to try whatever switch I want. I suspect browns *might* do the job for me without any modding, so will give them a try when I order, might save me some time/effort if I like them as is.

If you're ok with soldering instead of de-soldering, and want a TKL, and can stretch the budget a bit, you may go for a phantom kit, with an aluminium tex body, and just put whatever switches you want, from scratch

It costs around $220 from mechanical keyboards, I'm so used to the 60% simplicity, otherwise, with the quality and availability of the parts, I want one too

WASD V2 is an absolute beauty, the only minor issue was the plastic case griming up, if you don't mind it, it's the best keyboard I had (another issue is the two piece case, but these are very minor issues)

I'm looking for that WASD V2 heft and charisma in 60% cases, I'm yet to find it

Edit: wow my original thread is from 02/2015, it feels like 02/2014, good thing time flew by slower than it felt

Edit 2: This is the tex case: https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=280 - the plate is $40-ish, PCB is $30 ish, you also need a teensy, but in return, it's a better keyboard than many, with extreme repairability
« Last Edit: Thu, 07 July 2016, 09:05:12 by KHAANNN »
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Offline sl33py

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Hmm. Soldering I don't mind, swapping like for like. But I don't like metal frames and stuff cos they're freezing cold if the ambient temp is!

Other than that, I don't know the first thing about teensies (had to look up what it was before I made the mental connection with the tiny PCBs I've seen on here). I think building my own is probably well into CBF territory. I'm much happier making small hacks to an existing system than I am making one from scratch.
Although I'm thinking Clears now anyway.. and will lube/spring swap to lighten them if needed and too tight to buy Zealios.

How do people make sure you lube all their switches the same way? Oops, way off topic now, apologies.

Offline csmertx

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Hmm. Soldering I don't mind, swapping like for like. But I don't like metal frames and stuff cos they're freezing cold if the ambient temp is!

Other than that, I don't know the first thing about teensies (had to look up what it was before I made the mental connection with the tiny PCBs I've seen on here). I think building my own is probably well into CBF territory. I'm much happier making small hacks to an existing system than I am making one from scratch.
Although I'm thinking Clears now anyway.. and will lube/spring swap to lighten them if needed and too tight to buy Zealios.

How do people make sure you lube all their switches the same way? Oops, way off topic now, apologies.

CBF = Coronary Blood Flow? I looked up the Urban dictionary definition and I'm still scratching my head due to the syntax :confused:
More
 / another 3d keyboard model thread / BSD thread / github / falotalt
Quote
...Especially the Florida cousins, who obviously can't take a hint.

Offline KHAANNN

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Hmm. Soldering I don't mind, swapping like for like. But I don't like metal frames and stuff cos they're freezing cold if the ambient temp is!

Other than that, I don't know the first thing about teensies (had to look up what it was before I made the mental connection with the tiny PCBs I've seen on here). I think building my own is probably well into CBF territory. I'm much happier making small hacks to an existing system than I am making one from scratch.
Although I'm thinking Clears now anyway.. and will lube/spring swap to lighten them if needed and too tight to buy Zealios.

How do people make sure you lube all their switches the same way? Oops, way off topic now, apologies.

I once bought an aluminium mouse pad, it was one of the worst things I did, the thing froze my wrists (I hate mouse pads too)

However, with keyboards, things are extremely different, touching the aluminium is enjoyable, it also reduces sweating, in my opinion, whatever the ambient temperature is, and in the winter, it gets ~18C for me

Lubing is pretty forgiving unless you are lubing clicky switches, minor differences disappear in a short amount of time

You can also buy a WASD V2 with Clear's, get some GPL105 with the drip tip, drip 2 drops on each side of the clear switch, make sure it moves to the bottom, touches the spring, prevents the ping and get done with it, without even opening the keyboard

Anyway, at this point, it's probably best for you to pull the trigger on a Clear V2 and go on from there, trial and error is the best teacher
Endgame | 1.25 Cmd for GMK Sets Please | Or Just 1.25 Blanks Like The Good Old Days

Offline sl33py

  • Posts: 5
  • Location: Straya!
!?! I didn't know people were lubing switches without opening them!! I don't understand how it can get the lube to the spring (which is what I did with my switch tester, which also killed the 'ping'). Would it only lube the action of the switch, but not remove any ping in this case? Thanks for this info. I googled 'drip tip' and got a lot of results I definitely wasn't expecting lol

Offline csmertx

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I think the most popular method is to pop the switch top and use a fine paintbrush. Maybe drop in a silicone ball or something similar if you're feeling extra adventurous
More
 / another 3d keyboard model thread / BSD thread / github / falotalt
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...Especially the Florida cousins, who obviously can't take a hint.