Cherry/Gateron Switch Cutout Question

[ThatRusty]

Hey I have a quick question, as the design of my board is progressing (slowly but surely) I found in the GH Resources two different cut outs for a 2u key with stabilizers. I was hoping someone could tell me what the difference was, see photo below and thanks in advance!



I was also wondering if anyone had any experience cutting plates out with a CNC Router? I've purchased Inventables X-Carve and thought it would be great if I could cut my own plates out with it! The only problem is the smallest bit that I would probably feel comfortable using would a 1/32" end mill (even that is pushing it). I've detailed a cut out that would be achievable on the CNC and was wondering if anyone could let me know if it would even work.

I won't have the CNC until probably the end of may, but I thought I'd start looking into a couple things.

CNC Router Cut Out


(Dimensions in mm)

[jacobolus]

You should look at a physical switch to figure out how close to the corners it gets. Personally I recommend against making shapes that need the bit to be making a slot, if you can help it. The more of the bit edge is in contact with your material at the same time, the slower you have to cut and the more wear you put on your bit. Also, as radius gets larger, bits get dramatically more stable, and so cut faster and are less prone to wearing out or breaking. As a general rule, you want your bit to be as short and fat as you can get away with for a particular job.

What material are you cutting?

[Findecanor]

Another option for switch holes would be to extend only sideways in the corners, so that the hole is shaped like a fat letter H with rounded corners. That shape would allows for larger routing bits to be used.
I suggested it in this thread were we discussed it a bit, and tests were made. The shape has also been used in at least one custom keyboard...

The difference between the stabiliser cutouts is that there is more space between the stabilisers and the switches in one of them. The original cutout that Cherry publishes has space between the switch and stabiliser.
Cutouts on the sides of the switches (to allow opening without desoldering) and compatibility to Costar-style stabilisers were added to both designs later.

[Wilba]

If you're planning to use the plate with a PCB, then let the PCB provide the horizontal alignment and use a 14mm tall rectangle with the width at 15mm or wider, depending on how small you want the corner radii. Cherry MX switches snap in on the top/bottom edges, not the side. i.e. a 16mm x 14mm x 1.0mm radii would be fine (maybe even 1/16" bit would work).

Using Cherry PCB-mount stabilizers also simplifies things a lot... you just need a rounded rectangle big enough for the stabilizer to fit through, not snap into... i.e. 7mm wide, and 6.0mm/9.015mm above/below switch Y center, 1.0mm radii.

I'm no expert, though, I'm just giving my opinion based on looking at plate design files from jdcarpe and others.

[ThatRusty]

You should look at a physical switch to figure out how close to the corners it gets. As a general rule, you want your bit to be as short and fat as you can get away with for a particular job.

Ya, I'm just getting antsy, I got in on the Gateron GB and just haven't received my switches yet! My cutting method would to use a larger end mill to clear out most of the material and then use a smaller bit to clean up the corners.

What material are you cutting?

I would be using Aluminium.

Another option for switch holes would be to extend only sideways in the corners, so that the hole is shaped like a fat letter H with rounded corners. That shape would allows for larger routing bits to be used.
I suggested it in this thread were we discussed it a bit, and tests were made. The shape has also been used in at least one custom keyboard...

The difference between the stabiliser cutouts is that there is more space between the stabilisers and the switches in one of them. The original cutout that Cherry publishes has space between the switch and stabiliser.
Cutouts on the sides of the switches (to allow opening without desoldering) and compatibility to Costar-style stabilisers were added to both designs later.

I think making the cutout wide it probably what I'll end up doing, it will more than likely make the cutting process easier. I had read that thread and there is definitely some good info there.

I'm still a little unsure about these stabilizer cutouts, I think I would want to want to use Costar style stabilizers. This is my first custom, so I'm not stuck in one way or the other, I had just read that Costar stabilizers are better.

If you're planning to use the plate with a PCB, then let the PCB provide the horizontal alignment and use a 14mm tall rectangle with the width at 15mm or wider, depending on how small you want the corner radii. Cherry MX switches snap in on the top/bottom edges, not the side. i.e. a 16mm x 14mm x 1.0mm radii would be fine (maybe even 1/16" bit would work).

Using a PCB would be the ultimate end goal, but the board will be hand wired on the first iteration. Once I get my X-Carve I'll be hammering out cutout tests like no ones business, I think I'll probably end up at a cutout like Findecanor mentioned; a fat, sideways 'H'.

Using Cherry PCB-mount stabilizers also simplifies things a lot... you just need a rounded rectangle big enough for the stabilizer to fit through, not snap into... i.e. 7mm wide, and 6.0mm/9.015mm above/below switch Y center, 1.0mm radii.

I'm no expert, though, I'm just giving my opinion based on looking at plate design files from jdcarpe and others.

This could be an interesting idea, once I go to a PCB.

[Findecanor]

I'm still a little unsure about these stabilizer cutouts, I think I would want to want to use Costar style stabilizers. This is my first custom, so I'm not stuck in one way or the other, I had just read that Costar stabilizers are better.

Costar stabiliser holes would be the simplest to make as the are just rectangles.  There are often so few stabilised keys that you could machine them rounded and sharpen the corners by hand with needle files.

The Costar stabiliser holes are supposed to be a bit shifted out of alignment from the switch hole. Be sure though that the wire goes on the same side as the LED cutout in the switch - otherwise it won't fit. The Massdrop-ErgoDox case suffers from that design error.
The direction of Cherry stabilisers matters too: there can't be any component on the PCB where the wire goes.

The big reason why some people like Costar stabilisers more is that Cherry stabilisers have some plastic springs on the bottoms which dampen the feel as if the keys had O-rings installed. If you do have O-rings anyway (or don't bottom out), then you won't feel any difference.
If you make a custom, you could just clip those small plastic springs off, though.

[ThatRusty]

Costar stabiliser holes would be the simplest to make as the are just rectangles.  There are often so few stabilised keys that you could machine them rounded and sharpen the corners by hand with needle files.

I like this idea, where would I find some dimensions for these cut outs? The only thing I could find was this and it doesn't seem to mention what size key the dimensions are for.

[Findecanor]

I like this idea, where would I find some dimensions for these cut outs? The only thing I could find was this and it doesn't seem to mention what size key the dimensions are for.

Oh, it was I who had posted that ... I believe I must have got the measurements from an existing file.
The pattern is the same for 2, 2.25 and 2.75 wide keys with the switch in the centre.
For Space Bars, it is as if there is a 1×1 key at each end mounted on a stabilizer stem/insert. (centre of stabilizer hole 1/2 key from the end)