Any Cherry G80-1800 owners out there with an opinion?

[oledome]

I'm looking to get one of these for work and Cherry MX Blacks are the only option currently. Since my working day is spent using AutoCAD I figure linear switches would be suited to two key shortcuts? Is there a downside to this compact keyboard over a full size one?

[njbair]

I own this exact board. I like the space-saving layout a lot, but I do not care for the MX blacks. This is mainly because I do a fair share of typing in the sense of writing and coding, as opposed to keyboard shortcut kind of stuff. I prefer tactile/clicky keys with a lighter touch for marathon typing sessions, as I'm less prone to bottom out. Layout-wise, I'm assuming you're looking at an 1800 because you want to save space without sacrificing the numpad. This is a great board for that, but the 1U numpad zero takes a little getting used to.

Cherry Corp. boards are also not the most solid boards out there. This one in particular has PCB-only mounted switches (no plate), and the case simply clips together (no screws). It's not that it's cheaply made, it's just not as rock-solid as a Filco or a Ducky.

Lastly, the keycaps. The stock caps are POM, which are slipperier (is that a word?) than ABS or PBT. They are also lasered/infilled which means the legends are a little bumpy. These are minor issues that just take some getting used to. And if you would ever consider replacement keycaps, the 1800 layout does limit your options. A few kits offer 1800 support, such as GMK Hyperfuse. But Hyperfuse does not provide the correct bottom row for a winkey 1800, only winkeyless. Keycap support is likely to improve with upcoming group buys, since the TX1800 buy will place a lot more 1800-layout boards in people's hands. But I don't think the TX1800 has winkeys so I wouldn't expect that to change. Anyway, just don't expect to be able to use most keycap sets with this layout. All the correctly-labeled keys are there, but they are in the wrong profile. Trust me, it's awkward--I've tried it.

Because this board is PCB-only (no plate), I'm thinking about modding the PCB by drilling holes and re-wiring some of the runs to make this into a winkeyless layout. That way I can use my GMK Hyperfuse set when it arrives. I may also replace the MX blacks with some type of linear or clicky MX switch. I'm not sure if you're into that kind of modding, but just know that it's an option.

Hope this helps!

EDIT: It's worth noting that I also have a Dolch PAC keyboard which uses the same 1800 layout but has MX blues and ABS doubleshot keycaps. It's also got a screwed-together case, but still no plate. The Dolch board is definitely more solid and enjoyable to type on (for me) than the new 1800. Hopefully with some replacement switches and keycaps, this new one will get a lot more use.

[JaccoW]

I would like to add to the story above that the TX1800 plate+pcb combo does have room for a winkey layout.
[1.25][1.25][1.25][6.25][1.5][1.5]

It is based on the Leeku pcb that was another custom mod.

Most 1800 boards are kind of flimsy but the pcb-mount does make for a very dampened experience. Some people like it for heavier switches or quieter typing. I have a Raptor K1 and it's not bad to type on.
The SkiData I had was a whole lot sturdier because the case was thicker.

The TX1800 buy also sold some dyesub caps in the right profile and most of Ivan's latest GB's did add the extra keys to fit this layout, albeit at the wrong profile for the Home-cluster.

[oledome]

This is why Geekhack is awesome, I ask a relatively vague question because I don't know a great deal of specific questions to ask, but I get some really helpful and in-depth information.

I would like to add to the story above that the TX1800 plate+pcb combo does have room for a winkey layout.
[1.25][1.25][1.25][6.25][1.5][1.5]

It is based on the Leeku pcb that was another custom mod.

Most 1800 boards are kind of flimsy but the pcb-mount does make for a very dampened experience. Some people like it for heavier switches or quieter typing. I have a Raptor K1 and it's not bad to type on.
The SkiData I had was a whole lot sturdier because the case was thicker.

The TX1800 buy also sold some dyesub caps in the right profile and most of Ivan's latest GB's did add the extra keys to fit this layout, albeit at the wrong profile for the Home-cluster.

I own this exact board. I like the space-saving layout a lot, but I do not care for the MX blacks. This is mainly because I do a fair share of typing in the sense of writing and coding, as opposed to keyboard shortcut kind of stuff. I prefer tactile/clicky keys with a lighter touch for marathon typing sessions, as I'm less prone to bottom out. Layout-wise, I'm assuming you're looking at an 1800 because you want to save space without sacrificing the numpad. This is a great board for that, but the 1U numpad zero takes a little getting used to.

Cherry Corp. boards are also not the most solid boards out there. This one in particular has PCB-only mounted switches (no plate), and the case simply clips together (no screws). It's not that it's cheaply made, it's just not as rock-solid as a Filco or a Ducky.

Lastly, the keycaps. The stock caps are POM, which are slipperier (is that a word?) than ABS or PBT. They are also lasered/infilled which means the legends are a little bumpy. These are minor issues that just take some getting used to. And if you would ever consider replacement keycaps, the 1800 layout does limit your options. A few kits offer 1800 support, such as GMK Hyperfuse. But Hyperfuse does not provide the correct bottom row for a winkey 1800, only winkeyless. Keycap support is likely to improve with upcoming group buys, since the TX1800 buy will place a lot more 1800-layout boards in people's hands. But I don't think the TX1800 has winkeys so I wouldn't expect that to change. Anyway, just don't expect to be able to use most keycap sets with this layout. All the correctly-labeled keys are there, but they are in the wrong profile. Trust me, it's awkward--I've tried it.

Because this board is PCB-only (no plate), I'm thinking about modding the PCB by drilling holes and re-wiring some of the runs to make this into a winkeyless layout. That way I can use my GMK Hyperfuse set when it arrives. I may also replace the MX blacks with some type of linear or clicky MX switch. I'm not sure if you're into that kind of modding, but just know that it's an option.

Hope this helps!

EDIT: It's worth noting that I also have a Dolch PAC keyboard which uses the same 1800 layout but has MX blues and ABS doubleshot keycaps. It's also got a screwed-together case, but still no plate. The Dolch board is definitely more solid and enjoyable to type on (for me) than the new 1800. Hopefully with some replacement switches and keycaps, this new one will get a lot more use.

That's interesting about the keycaps, I hadn't realised they were POM. I am in fact due to get two sets of the Hyperfuse set, one for my Filco Majestouch 2 and another for this or just to keep for another time. If I have one complaint about the Filco is that the plate causes that ping which I can't stand (still need to do the drawer liner fix) and I'm definitely a fan of a silent keyboard, so that's interesting what you've said JaccoW about the PCB giving a softer, quieter feel. I'll take another look at the TX1800 plate.

I hadn't realised the Hyperfuse set isn't compatible with the winkey layout, but now you mention it, that's pretty clear and I'm not sure how I'll feel about the POM. That said I don't know if it can get much worse than this Logitech membrane thing I'm typing on right now at work. I would certainly be looking to get into modding at some point, I'm in the middle of moving but my new place is going to have a built in desk wide enough for a tinkering end. Speaking of switches from what I've read I'd like to get some ergo clears done, as I'm currently using brown switches in the Filco but the actuation is almost non-existent.

I'd be interested to hear more about your plans to mod the Cherry to winkeyless njbair, I'm an ISO user and Hyperfuse does it nicely, even the UK legends came in at the end, which is fantastic.

[Findecanor]

Black keys are thick POM. Grey keyboards have thin PBT. The legends are lasered.
The position of the Home/End/PgUp/PgDn keys are what irks me the most about the layout. The modifiers on the bottom row are annoyingly small and misplaced. I am also not a fan of the case: large, noisy and too titled.
I don't think you should avoid any keyboard because its switches are only PCB-mounted: the difference is minuscule. PCB-mounted are easier to mod if you would like that.

I think that most people here got G80-1800s used, or on sale. I think the MSRP for a new one is a bit high otherwise.
You could get a CM Storm Quickfire TK for only a little more: It is slightly smaller, has backlighting, more switch options and a more traditional layout, but you can't have arrows and numpad at the same time.

[njbair]

I think that most people here got G80-1800s used, or on sale. I think the MSRP for a new one is a bit high otherwise.

FWIW I bought mine new. No regrets.

I'd be interested to hear more about your plans to mod the Cherry to winkeyless njbair, I'm an ISO user and Hyperfuse does it nicely, even the UK legends came in at the end, which is fantastic.

I will definitely write up a log when I do it. But I probably won't even attempt it until Hyperfuse gets here, so it may be a while.

[IvanIvanovich]

It's a fine keyboard for work. It's more compact than a standard fullsize, but you don't loose anything like with TKL which may be nice if you work with spreadsheets. With the smaller size can be more comfortable since you don't have to have your arm out as far for right hand mouse use. They can also be found pretty often used for as little as 5EUR, so a really good proposition. If you want to do some more hunting you can find vintage ones without winkey with switches other than black, such as clear or blue if you wish... which are more likely to be found with doubleshots and more easy to use aftermarket keycap sets with. Or you can pay a LOT more for one of the current Asia market 186* models that come in all switch types with NKRO. Or maybe you can get lucky and find a good deal on a Raptor K1 which is essentially the same thing as the 'gaming' model. Otherwise most 1800 based models are only 2KRO... though not likely to be an issue at all in work environment.
Personally I love PCB mount boards, and unlike many I see plate as a CON not a PRO. It's one of the other things that makes me a fan of Cherry G80 line... besides the best stock keycaps around.

[njbair]

It's a fine keyboard for work. It's more compact than a standard fullsize, but you don't loose anything like with TKL which may be nice if you work with spreadsheets. With the smaller size can be more comfortable since you don't have to have your arm out as far for right hand mouse use. They can also be found pretty often used for as little as 5EUR, so a really good proposition. If you want to do some more hunting you can find vintage ones without winkey with switches other than black, such as clear or blue if you wish... which are more likely to be found with doubleshots and more easy to use aftermarket keycap sets with. Or you can pay a LOT more for one of the current Asia market 186* models that come in all switch types with NKRO. Or maybe you can get lucky and find a good deal on a Raptor K1 which is essentially the same thing as the 'gaming' model. Otherwise most 1800 based models are only 2KRO... though not likely to be an issue at all in work environment.
Personally I love PCB mount boards, and unlike many I see plate as a CON not a PRO. It's one of the other things that makes me a fan of Cherry G80 line... besides the best stock keycaps around.

I can see someone thinking a plate is neutral as opposed to a Pro, but what makes a plate a Con in your mind?

Just curious.

[JaccoW]

It's a fine keyboard for work. It's more compact than a standard fullsize, but you don't loose anything like with TKL which may be nice if you work with spreadsheets. With the smaller size can be more comfortable since you don't have to have your arm out as far for right hand mouse use. They can also be found pretty often used for as little as 5EUR, so a really good proposition. If you want to do some more hunting you can find vintage ones without winkey with switches other than black, such as clear or blue if you wish... which are more likely to be found with doubleshots and more easy to use aftermarket keycap sets with. Or you can pay a LOT more for one of the current Asia market 186* models that come in all switch types with NKRO. Or maybe you can get lucky and find a good deal on a Raptor K1 which is essentially the same thing as the 'gaming' model. Otherwise most 1800 based models are only 2KRO... though not likely to be an issue at all in work environment.
Personally I love PCB mount boards, and unlike many I see plate as a CON not a PRO. It's one of the other things that makes me a fan of Cherry G80 line... besides the best stock keycaps around.

I can see someone thinking a plate is neutral as opposed to a Pro, but what makes a plate a Con in your mind?

Just curious.

Weight (for portability) and moddability. Plates make it necessary to desolder switches if you want to swap springs, lube or do some b asic repairs unless they have special plates.

[Photekq]

I can see someone thinking a plate is neutral as opposed to a Pro, but what makes a plate a Con in your mind?

Just curious.

In my mind it's a con for some switches, and a pro for others. Just because some switches feel nicer with just a flexy PCB-mounted board, rather than a rigid plate-mounted one.

And a con in all situations is, as JaccoW said, that most plates stop you from being able to open the switches without desoldering.

OP, don't buy one of those new G80-1800s. They're overpriced and really awful. Try and get an old one with doubleshots.. it'll be cheaper and higher quality, and the switches will be nicer too.

[Hzza]

I'm not anti-plate, I just prefer the feel of nearly all switches without one. Plus I like fiddling, it's easier to tinker when you're plateless.

I'm also a big fan of the 1800 layout...they're the only boards I've used where it kind of makes sense to me to toggle numlock off and use the numpad nav cluster rather than reaching all the way up to the top of the board to pg up.

[CPTBadAss]

OP I use mine to CAD work occasionally too. I really like how I've got the whole keyboard but the footprint of the layout is much smaller. Really great for work.

I don't mind MX blacks but that's definitely a preference thing. I've got stock clears in my board.

And I've always preferred plates for any switch in all my boards. But again, personal preference.

[oledome]

Thanks for the input everyone.

I would love to know where people are getting used G80-1800s, I've been browsing eBay and unless I'm missing some other major used keyboard channel I don't know where to be looking. I suspect it has to do with patience and persistence? I would look to mod and as it would be my first forray into it, the easier the better so I guess PCB mount in this case would be a plus.

Photekq, you're in the UK, tell me where I should be looking! Also what is so bad about a new G80-1800?

BadAss, I'd like to mod to clears or ergo clears myself.

[CPTBadAss]

I've picked up 3-4 1800s from eBay. And I got my Dolch case from the classifieds here.

And if you pickup an 1800 and just have it stock, it won't have a plate in it so it will be very easy to mod to Clears/Ergo-clears. My 1800 with Clears and a Dolch case is really really nice for a work keyboard.

[mason]

I will definitely write up a log when I do it. But I probably won't even attempt it until Hyperfuse gets here, so it may be a while.

Looking forward to that. I really wanna do it on my winkey 1800 so the bottom row will be compatible with more keycap sets.