Author Topic: Post your ALPS keyboard  (Read 133401 times)

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Offline jdcarpe

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Re: Post your ALPS keyboard
« Reply #100 on: Thu, 26 November 2015, 14:42:46 »

Can anyone with a V80MTS confirm if it too has LED hole positions?

I'll be bringing it home from work this week (now that I've finished zealioing the 660m) so I can crack it open and take a look...

Here are a few photos of my V80MTS pcb. I don't really know what I'm looking for re: LED hole positions, so I'll just leave these here...
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link) (Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)

Haha, aww yeeeah! Thanks for these, man.

It seems like the V80MTS does indeed have LED positions just like the V60MTS. Why is this never mentioned in and advertising? Why is it even included? I'm guessing they just modified the positions on the original design to accept Alps while removing the stem well holes? I dunno, but it's both awesome yet quirky that they do indeed of LED positions.
Pretty sure those will accept MX switches as well as Alps. One PCB to rule them all.

If they used my switch holes in the plate, the plate could accept MX or Alps, as well.
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Offline E3E

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Re: Post your ALPS keyboard
« Reply #101 on: Thu, 26 November 2015, 14:56:06 »

Can anyone with a V80MTS confirm if it too has LED hole positions?

I'll be bringing it home from work this week (now that I've finished zealioing the 660m) so I can crack it open and take a look...

Here are a few photos of my V80MTS pcb. I don't really know what I'm looking for re: LED hole positions, so I'll just leave these here...
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link) (Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)

Haha, aww yeeeah! Thanks for these, man.

It seems like the V80MTS does indeed have LED positions just like the V60MTS. Why is this never mentioned in and advertising? Why is it even included? I'm guessing they just modified the positions on the original design to accept Alps while removing the stem well holes? I dunno, but it's both awesome yet quirky that they do indeed of LED positions.
Pretty sure those will accept MX switches as well as Alps. One PCB to rule them all.

If they used my switch holes in the plate, the plate could accept MX or Alps, as well.

I was wondering that too, but I kept getting the feeling this was untrue for the V60/80s. I love me some MXAlps PCBs though. :D

Offline jdcarpe

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Re: Post your ALPS keyboard
« Reply #102 on: Sat, 05 December 2015, 16:20:16 »
Dyed my modifiers today. Still need to retr0brite my spacebar, and get a spacebar stabilizer wire for it. The alphas could use a bath, as well.

KMAC :: LZ-GH :: WASD CODE :: WASD v2 :: GH60 :: Alps64 :: JD45 :: IBM Model M :: IBM 4704 "Pingmaster"

http://jd40.info :: http://jd45.info


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Offline digi

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Re: Post your ALPS keyboard
« Reply #103 on: Sat, 05 December 2015, 16:21:47 »
Dyed my modifiers today. Still need to retr0brite my spacebar, and get a spacebar stabilizer wire for it. The alphas could use a bath, as well.

Show Image


Dope mang! :thumb: Can't wait to build mine.

Offline sean

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Re: Post your ALPS keyboard
« Reply #104 on: Sat, 05 December 2015, 16:37:54 »
Dyed my modifiers today. Still need to retr0brite my spacebar, and get a spacebar stabilizer wire for it. The alphas could use a bath, as well.

Show Image


They came out very nicely, what was the dye?

Offline jdcarpe

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Re: Post your ALPS keyboard
« Reply #105 on: Sat, 05 December 2015, 16:42:59 »
Dyed my modifiers today. Still need to retr0brite my spacebar, and get a spacebar stabilizer wire for it. The alphas could use a bath, as well.

Show Image


They came out very nicely, what was the dye?
Thank you!

I used Rit liquid for synthetics, in Sapphire Blue. I put about a 1/3 of the bottle with a few cups of filtered water, in a saucepan, once the water was boiling. I did a test with some spare caps to see how long to dye them. About 2.5 minutes was the best match to the case. I did them in batches, using one of those gold coffee filter baskets to prevent the caps from lying on the bottom of the pan. Agitated throughout the process.
KMAC :: LZ-GH :: WASD CODE :: WASD v2 :: GH60 :: Alps64 :: JD45 :: IBM Model M :: IBM 4704 "Pingmaster"

http://jd40.info :: http://jd45.info


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Offline trenzafeeds

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Re: Post your ALPS keyboard
« Reply #106 on: Sat, 05 December 2015, 20:41:02 »
Dyed my modifiers today. Still need to retr0brite my spacebar, and get a spacebar stabilizer wire for it. The alphas could use a bath, as well.

Show Image


Quite nice, the spacebar does look a bit out of place though...
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Offline sean

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Re: Post your ALPS keyboard
« Reply #107 on: Sat, 05 December 2015, 21:41:12 »
Dyed my modifiers today. Still need to retr0brite my spacebar, and get a spacebar stabilizer wire for it. The alphas could use a bath, as well.

Show Image


They came out very nicely, what was the dye?
Thank you!

I used Rit liquid for synthetics, in Sapphire Blue. I put about a 1/3 of the bottle with a few cups of filtered water, in a saucepan, once the water was boiling. I did a test with some spare caps to see how long to dye them. About 2.5 minutes was the best match to the case. I did them in batches, using one of those gold coffee filter baskets to prevent the caps from lying on the bottom of the pan. Agitated throughout the process.

I'm trying to find a dye that will match nicely with sniper grey cerakote. I honestly don't even know if that color would even be possible with the dies available... I'm thinking maybe a mix of blue and black would do it and just hope it doesn't come out purple or brown.

Edit: Or if I can successfully dye something grey, that would work if I add a tinge of blue.

...On an off topic note I don't think I have ever used the word 'tinge' in conversation before.
« Last Edit: Sat, 05 December 2015, 21:45:57 by sean »

Offline E3E

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Re: Post your ALPS keyboard
« Reply #108 on: Sat, 05 December 2015, 22:33:52 »
Dyed my modifiers today. Still need to retr0brite my spacebar, and get a spacebar stabilizer wire for it. The alphas could use a bath, as well.

Show Image


They came out very nicely, what was the dye?
Thank you!

I used Rit liquid for synthetics, in Sapphire Blue. I put about a 1/3 of the bottle with a few cups of filtered water, in a saucepan, once the water was boiling. I did a test with some spare caps to see how long to dye them. About 2.5 minutes was the best match to the case. I did them in batches, using one of those gold coffee filter baskets to prevent the caps from lying on the bottom of the pan. Agitated throughout the process.

I'm trying to find a dye that will match nicely with sniper grey cerakote. I honestly don't even know if that color would even be possible with the dies available... I'm thinking maybe a mix of blue and black would do it and just hope it doesn't come out purple or brown.

Edit: Or if I can successfully dye something grey, that would work if I add a tinge of blue.

...On an off topic note I don't think I have ever used the word 'tinge' in conversation before.

I think I picked up the same RIT series dye that JD used, albeit in a different color. It might work for your build!



I have been meaning to dye some thin AT101 PBT caps (not my baby's caps) but I haven't gotten around to it (as you can see, I've been too lazy to even open the package :P ). Truth be told, I think I'd like more colors than just black or "graphite" though.

I thought of mixing blue or "sapphire" with "graphite" to come up with some steely grayish blue, but I've been too lazy to pick up more colors. Good luck in finding what you need! :D

Offline rowdy

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Re: Post your ALPS keyboard
« Reply #109 on: Sat, 05 December 2015, 23:12:51 »
Dyed my modifiers today. Still need to retr0brite my spacebar, and get a spacebar stabilizer wire for it. The alphas could use a bath, as well.

Show Image


That has come out particularly well :)

Nice match to the case too!
"Because keyboards are accessories to PC makers, they focus on minimizing the manufacturing costs. But that’s incorrect. It’s in HHKB’s slogan, but when America’s cowboys were in the middle of a trip and their horse died, they would leave the horse there. But even if they were in the middle of a desert, they would take their saddle with them. The horse was a consumable good, but the saddle was an interface that their bodies had gotten used to. In the same vein, PCs are consumable goods, while keyboards are important interfaces." - Eiiti Wada

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Offline sean

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Re: Post your ALPS keyboard
« Reply #110 on: Sat, 05 December 2015, 23:44:18 »
Dyed my modifiers today. Still need to retr0brite my spacebar, and get a spacebar stabilizer wire for it. The alphas could use a bath, as well.

Show Image


They came out very nicely, what was the dye?
Thank you!

I used Rit liquid for synthetics, in Sapphire Blue. I put about a 1/3 of the bottle with a few cups of filtered water, in a saucepan, once the water was boiling. I did a test with some spare caps to see how long to dye them. About 2.5 minutes was the best match to the case. I did them in batches, using one of those gold coffee filter baskets to prevent the caps from lying on the bottom of the pan. Agitated throughout the process.

I'm trying to find a dye that will match nicely with sniper grey cerakote. I honestly don't even know if that color would even be possible with the dies available... I'm thinking maybe a mix of blue and black would do it and just hope it doesn't come out purple or brown.

Edit: Or if I can successfully dye something grey, that would work if I add a tinge of blue.

...On an off topic note I don't think I have ever used the word 'tinge' in conversation before.

I think I picked up the same RIT series dye that JD used, albeit in a different color. It might work for your build!

Show Image


I have been meaning to dye some thin AT101 PBT caps (not my baby's caps) but I haven't gotten around to it (as you can see, I've been too lazy to even open the package :P ). Truth be told, I think I'd like more colors than just black or "graphite" though.

I thought of mixing blue or "sapphire" with "graphite" to come up with some steely grayish blue, but I've been too lazy to pick up more colors. Good luck in finding what you need! :D

That's exactly what I'm going for! If you end up doing that post some pics for me ;)

Offline E3E

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Re: Post your ALPS keyboard
« Reply #111 on: Sat, 05 December 2015, 23:48:58 »
That's exactly what I'm going for! If you end up doing that post some pics for me ;)

Will do, good sir! :D You mean the blue grey mix, right?

Offline sean

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Re: Post your ALPS keyboard
« Reply #112 on: Sun, 06 December 2015, 00:03:45 »
That's exactly what I'm going for! If you end up doing that post some pics for me ;)

Will do, good sir! :D You mean the blue grey mix, right?

Blue grey mix, yep yep yep

Offline zombimuncha

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Re: Post your ALPS keyboard
« Reply #113 on: Sun, 06 December 2015, 05:56:57 »

Can anyone with a V80MTS confirm if it too has LED hole positions?

I'll be bringing it home from work this week (now that I've finished zealioing the 660m) so I can crack it open and take a look...

Here are a few photos of my V80MTS pcb. I don't really know what I'm looking for re: LED hole positions, so I'll just leave these here...
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link) (Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)

Haha, aww yeeeah! Thanks for these, man.

It seems like the V80MTS does indeed have LED positions just like the V60MTS. Why is this never mentioned in and advertising? Why is it even included? I'm guessing they just modified the positions on the original design to accept Alps while removing the stem well holes? I dunno, but it's both awesome yet quirky that they do indeed of LED positions.
Pretty sure those will accept MX switches as well as Alps. One PCB to rule them all.

If they used my switch holes in the plate, the plate could accept MX or Alps, as well.

I was wondering that too, but I kept getting the feeling this was untrue for the V60/80s. I love me some MXAlps PCBs though. :D

So... if I can track down some SMD LEDs, and learn how to do SMD soldering, I could just bung them in there and they would work? Is that what you guys are saying?

Offline E3E

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Re: Post your ALPS keyboard
« Reply #114 on: Sun, 06 December 2015, 06:43:21 »

Can anyone with a V80MTS confirm if it too has LED hole positions?

I'll be bringing it home from work this week (now that I've finished zealioing the 660m) so I can crack it open and take a look...

Here are a few photos of my V80MTS pcb. I don't really know what I'm looking for re: LED hole positions, so I'll just leave these here...
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link) (Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)

Haha, aww yeeeah! Thanks for these, man.

It seems like the V80MTS does indeed have LED positions just like the V60MTS. Why is this never mentioned in and advertising? Why is it even included? I'm guessing they just modified the positions on the original design to accept Alps while removing the stem well holes? I dunno, but it's both awesome yet quirky that they do indeed of LED positions.
Pretty sure those will accept MX switches as well as Alps. One PCB to rule them all.

If they used my switch holes in the plate, the plate could accept MX or Alps, as well.

I was wondering that too, but I kept getting the feeling this was untrue for the V60/80s. I love me some MXAlps PCBs though. :D

So... if I can track down some SMD LEDs, and learn how to do SMD soldering, I could just bung them in there and they would work? Is that what you guys are saying?

We aren't quite sure yet! Why don't you try be our first test subject? :P Mattr567 should be able to tell us eventually, since he seems to be on the forefront of using a V60 for backlit Alps.   
 
I bet it'll work with no issue though... I hope!


Offline ctm

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Re: Post your ALPS keyboard
« Reply #115 on: Sun, 13 December 2015, 15:05:42 »
I am so envy of those who got TMK ALPS64 rev A that has individual hand-written serial number by hasu. Rev B does not have serial number  :( but still, I absolutely love my TMK ALPS64 ;D
TMK Alps64 w/ Matias Quiet Switches in KBP V60 case.
Infinity60 with SKCM Orange Switches w/ TMK.
CM Storm QRF w/ Frosty Flake controller, Cherry MX Blue Switches and TMK firmware.


Coming:
Ellipse Model F F62.

Offline wakko

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Re: Post your ALPS keyboard
« Reply #116 on: Sun, 13 December 2015, 16:03:34 »
My Alps64
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Offline E3E

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Re: Post your ALPS keyboard
« Reply #117 on: Sun, 13 December 2015, 16:09:19 »
My Alps64

I could have sworn I've seen this board 3 times already from three different people, lol. This dye scheme and those AEK/AEKII caps are very popular! Looks good, man. :)

EDIT: Oh yeah, at the time, the only aftermarket plate available was the AEK plate. Still, the blue and white dye job. I keep seeing it! Haha.

Offline rm-rf

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Re: Post your ALPS keyboard
« Reply #118 on: Sun, 13 December 2015, 16:12:59 »
those blue modifiers on those boards look great.
i am unable to decide if i want to dye mine though.

Offline stoic-lemon

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Re: Post your ALPS keyboard
« Reply #119 on: Sun, 13 December 2015, 17:11:42 »
How does the dye come out on a spacebar? Anyone tried that yet?

Offline E3E

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Re: Post your ALPS keyboard
« Reply #120 on: Sun, 13 December 2015, 17:25:17 »
How does the dye come out on a spacebar? Anyone tried that yet?

Many people don't try dyeing ABS because it has lower temperature tolerances than PBT, but I've seen RIT DyeMore used for other things made out of ABS before, so I'm sure it can be done.

I'd imagine it'd just have to be done in quick dunks until you reach the desired intensity. :o

Offline wakko

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Re: Post your ALPS keyboard
« Reply #121 on: Sun, 13 December 2015, 18:36:51 »

My Alps64

I could have sworn I've seen this board 3 times already from three different people, lol. This dye scheme and those AEK/AEKII caps are very popular! Looks good, man. :)

EDIT: Oh yeah, at the time, the only aftermarket plate available was the AEK plate. Still, the blue and white dye job. I keep seeing it! Haha.

Not a whole lot of options for alps boards. Hopefully that'll change. AEK caps are nice pbt, if you don't mind the font, and easily obtained.
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Offline E3E

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Re: Post your ALPS keyboard
« Reply #122 on: Sun, 13 December 2015, 18:40:37 »

My Alps64

I could have sworn I've seen this board 3 times already from three different people, lol. This dye scheme and those AEK/AEKII caps are very popular! Looks good, man. :)

EDIT: Oh yeah, at the time, the only aftermarket plate available was the AEK plate. Still, the blue and white dye job. I keep seeing it! Haha.

Not a whole lot of options for alps boards. Hopefully that'll change. AEK caps are nice pbt, if you don't mind the font, and easily obtained.

Yeah, I actually have a set! They are very nice caps, that's for sure. Yeah, the Alps world is pretty limited at the moment, but we've been expanding it lately. :D

Offline ideus

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Re: Post your ALPS keyboard
« Reply #123 on: Sun, 13 December 2015, 18:41:58 »
My Alps64


Did you dye sub the modifiers?

Offline jdcarpe

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Re: Post your ALPS keyboard
« Reply #124 on: Sun, 13 December 2015, 18:55:34 »
Once I get my new plates in, I'm changing to a different layout where I can use my Tai Hao WoB double shots with the modifiers from Badwrench.

I don't like PBT much at all, and the AEK II caps have centered nubs on the D and K keys. *shudder*
KMAC :: LZ-GH :: WASD CODE :: WASD v2 :: GH60 :: Alps64 :: JD45 :: IBM Model M :: IBM 4704 "Pingmaster"

http://jd40.info :: http://jd45.info


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Offline E3E

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Re: Post your ALPS keyboard
« Reply #125 on: Sun, 13 December 2015, 19:04:12 »
Once I get my new plates in, I'm changing to a different layout where I can use my Tai Hao WoB double shots with the modifiers from Badwrench.

I don't like PBT much at all, and the AEK II caps have centered nubs on the D and K keys. *shudder*

It's strange, I actually don't care much for PBT on Alps either. I did use PBT on Cherry, but only sparingly, using Gateron blanks to fill out the non-standard keys on the Octagon (other spots filled with thin PBT from some random G80) while I was waiting on my Jukebox SA caps, so I don't have much of an opinion of PBT on Cherry.

I keep coming back to this description of ABS feeling "warmer" while PBT feels "colder," but I don't really know how to put it into words. It could be that PBT is more dense and harder, but I really don't know.
« Last Edit: Mon, 14 December 2015, 06:32:05 by E3E »

Offline wakko

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Re: Post your ALPS keyboard
« Reply #126 on: Mon, 14 December 2015, 07:51:05 »

My Alps64


Did you dye sub the modifiers?

I dyed the modifiers.

Yea the homing keys are irritating. Enh I've gotten used to it.
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Offline itzmeluigi

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Re: Post your ALPS keyboard
« Reply #127 on: Mon, 14 December 2015, 19:09:56 »
My TEX grey non-lip case arrived today and im extremely impressed with the quality, it matches my grey Ducky Mini perfectly :).  I got my V60 mounted in it, the case makes the switches feel and sound so much better than the stock V60 case. I have a new daily driver :D  Just need to get some keycaps for it now.

I also soldered a single LED to the V60 just to test if it would light up and work with breathing mode like the MX V60, but i noticed the V60 MTS doesnt come with resistors installed.




Offline E3E

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Re: Post your ALPS keyboard
« Reply #128 on: Mon, 14 December 2015, 21:26:09 »
My TEX grey non-lip case arrived today and im extremely impressed with the quality, it matches my grey Ducky Mini perfectly :).  I got my V60 mounted in it, the case makes the switches feel and sound so much better than the stock V60 case. I have a new daily driver :D  Just need to get some keycaps for it now.

I also soldered a single LED to the V60 just to test if it would light up and work with breathing mode like the MX V60, but i noticed the V60 MTS doesnt come with resistors installed.

Show Image


That looks epic, man! Glad to finally see it put together. Did you have to do any drilling for the plate?

Looks like getting one of these backlit will be a bit of a process, but I'm looking forward to seeing it happen! SMD resistors eh? If you don't mind burning out an LED, you can always test one without any resistors to see if it even lights up :P

Offline itzmeluigi

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Re: Post your ALPS keyboard
« Reply #129 on: Mon, 14 December 2015, 21:57:24 »
My TEX grey non-lip case arrived today and im extremely impressed with the quality, it matches my grey Ducky Mini perfectly :).  I got my V60 mounted in it, the case makes the switches feel and sound so much better than the stock V60 case. I have a new daily driver :D  Just need to get some keycaps for it now.

I also soldered a single LED to the V60 just to test if it would light up and work with breathing mode like the MX V60, but i noticed the V60 MTS doesnt come with resistors installed.

Show Image


That looks epic, man! Glad to finally see it put together. Did you have to do any drilling for the plate?

Looks like getting one of these backlit will be a bit of a process, but I'm looking forward to seeing it happen! SMD resistors eh? If you don't mind burning out an LED, you can always test one without any resistors to see if it even lights up :P

Thanks im really happy with this case, TEX is awesome and got it shipped to me really fast.  I didnt have to do any drilling :) I used the same method that czarek did, i put the left screw in first, then put the board in, tightened the left screw, and slid the board all the way to the left(a good amount of pressure was required) then i installed and tightened the right screw and slid the board in the center, after i removed the spacebar and installed the third screw. The only downside to this method is it takes a bit of patience to do and a very thin flat head screw driver.

I will still drill the V60 plate when i desolder the SKCM Blues and swap them into the Hasu PCB once i get all the parts prepared for it.

I did solder a LED, but it didnt light up at all, probably because there wasnt any resistors, im going to email KBP and ask them what resistors they use on the MX V60 then buy some and install them.

Offline E3E

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Re: Post your ALPS keyboard
« Reply #130 on: Tue, 15 December 2015, 06:58:53 »
My TEX grey non-lip case arrived today and im extremely impressed with the quality, it matches my grey Ducky Mini perfectly :).  I got my V60 mounted in it, the case makes the switches feel and sound so much better than the stock V60 case. I have a new daily driver :D  Just need to get some keycaps for it now.

I also soldered a single LED to the V60 just to test if it would light up and work with breathing mode like the MX V60, but i noticed the V60 MTS doesnt come with resistors installed.

Show Image


That looks epic, man! Glad to finally see it put together. Did you have to do any drilling for the plate?

Looks like getting one of these backlit will be a bit of a process, but I'm looking forward to seeing it happen! SMD resistors eh? If you don't mind burning out an LED, you can always test one without any resistors to see if it even lights up :P

Thanks im really happy with this case, TEX is awesome and got it shipped to me really fast.  I didnt have to do any drilling :) I used the same method that czarek did, i put the left screw in first, then put the board in, tightened the left screw, and slid the board all the way to the left(a good amount of pressure was required) then i installed and tightened the right screw and slid the board in the center, after i removed the spacebar and installed the third screw. The only downside to this method is it takes a bit of patience to do and a very thin flat head screw driver.

I will still drill the V60 plate when i desolder the SKCM Blues and swap them into the Hasu PCB once i get all the parts prepared for it.

I did solder a LED, but it didnt light up at all, probably because there wasnt any resistors, im going to email KBP and ask them what resistors they use on the MX V60 then buy some and install them.
Show Image


Yeah, I was thinking that might be an outcome as well! Do let us know what you hear back from KBP, since I would love to try this out eventually on a V60 or V80.

And hey, maybe you should look into hex M2 screws for your v60! My Hammer case came with some phillips screws, but I prefer the hex screws because of the diminutive size of the driver; it makes it real easy to access the screws and it gets a good grip on them! Magnetize the tip, and it'll be even better. :D

Offline ctm

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Re: Post your ALPS keyboard
« Reply #131 on: Fri, 18 December 2015, 18:47:57 »
My TMK ALPS64 in KBP V60 case.
120521-0
« Last Edit: Fri, 18 December 2015, 18:49:34 by ctm »
TMK Alps64 w/ Matias Quiet Switches in KBP V60 case.
Infinity60 with SKCM Orange Switches w/ TMK.
CM Storm QRF w/ Frosty Flake controller, Cherry MX Blue Switches and TMK firmware.


Coming:
Ellipse Model F F62.

Offline E3E

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Re: Post your ALPS keyboard
« Reply #132 on: Fri, 18 December 2015, 18:56:59 »

Offline itzmeluigi

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Re: Post your ALPS keyboard
« Reply #133 on: Tue, 29 December 2015, 01:35:09 »
The second Cyrillic caps arrived, they are in perfect condition and match my other set. Very glad i got them, going to pickup a second Olivette set to complete the modifiers. I have another Cyrillic set coming soon in ISO, im going to cut the plate from the board and use it to complete my Alps64.



I also bought a NTC KB-6251 with Green linear Hua-Jie AK switches in QWERTZ layout, interested in comparing them side by side with SKCL Greens.


Offline E3E

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Re: Post your ALPS keyboard
« Reply #134 on: Tue, 29 December 2015, 01:50:09 »
The second Cyrillic caps arrived, they are in perfect condition and match my other set. Very glad i got them, going to pickup a second Olivette set to complete the modifiers. I have another Cyrillic set coming soon in ISO, im going to cut the plate from the board and use it to complete my Alps64.

Show Image


I also bought a NTC KB-6251 with Green linear Hua-Jie AK switches in QWERTZ layout, interested in comparing them side by side with SKCL Greens.

You're like a Russian Cyrillic demi-god, man. The fact you found practically unused caps in the Alps world itself speaks to your otherwordly powers. If you ever happen upon some unused PBT caps, hook me up! :P

Seriously though, looking good! They're gonna look fantastic with Olivette. :)

Offline itzmeluigi

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Re: Post your ALPS keyboard
« Reply #135 on: Tue, 29 December 2015, 02:19:37 »
The second Cyrillic caps arrived, they are in perfect condition and match my other set. Very glad i got them, going to pickup a second Olivette set to complete the modifiers. I have another Cyrillic set coming soon in ISO, im going to cut the plate from the board and use it to complete my Alps64.

Show Image


I also bought a NTC KB-6251 with Green linear Hua-Jie AK switches in QWERTZ layout, interested in comparing them side by side with SKCL Greens.

You're like a Russian Cyrillic demi-god, man. The fact you found practically unused caps in the Alps world itself speaks to your otherwordly powers. If you ever happen upon some unused PBT caps, hook me up! :P

Seriously though, looking good! They're gonna look fantastic with Olivette. :)
Спасибо :) i try as much as possible, more Cyrillic is always awesome. Almost all my Cherry boards have Cyrillic except two. Both sets were from slider over dome boards, the ISO set has some type of clone switches with a Costar sticker on the back of the board, cant wait to receive it and open it up. I think Cyrillic Alps PBT dyesub caps exist but they are ultra rare, ill always be searching for more Cyrillic stuff :)

I got lucky and found 25 SKCM Blues to use with the leftover 39 Blues i have for a Duck Eagle kit im going to buy soon. The kit doesnt include the Alps plate though, but i can always buy any ANSI Alps board and cut the plate to size. Also need to find a Alu case for my Alps64 build, I certainly have a lot of projects ahead of me haha.

Offline bocahgundul

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Re: Post your ALPS keyboard
« Reply #136 on: Tue, 29 December 2015, 02:23:19 »
How do you guys managed to find all these good stuff? damn I'm so jealous

Offline lishi

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Re: Post your ALPS keyboard
« Reply #137 on: Tue, 29 December 2015, 11:50:47 »
Daily Driver at work  ;D

Matias Quiet Clicks with Hasu Alps64 PCB in a Tex Acrylic case

Been thinking of retrobrighting the spacebar, but I don't really mind the yellowing



Bonus: Printed out a label for the back too

« Last Edit: Tue, 29 December 2015, 11:52:36 by lishi »
All the kustom 60s

Offline alienman82

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Re: Post your ALPS keyboard
« Reply #138 on: Tue, 29 December 2015, 11:52:07 »
removed.
« Last Edit: Thu, 01 March 2018, 16:44:21 by alienman82 »

Offline sean

  • Posts: 304
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Re: Post your ALPS keyboard
« Reply #139 on: Tue, 29 December 2015, 12:18:51 »
Daily Driver at work  ;D

Matias Quiet Clicks with Hasu Alps64 PCB in a Tex Acrylic case

Been thinking of retrobrighting the spacebar, but I don't really mind the yellowing

Show Image


Bonus: Printed out a label for the back too

Show Image


I love the label on the back :p. It looks like a modern apple keyboard with Alps styled switches if they were to be made today, probably due to the acrylic case.

Offline Hypersphere

  • Posts: 1881
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Re: Post your ALPS keyboard
« Reply #140 on: Tue, 29 December 2015, 12:45:34 »
KBP V60MTS-C with dye-sub PBT caps from an IBM 5140 "portable" computer keyboard.

122051-0

The mods and spacebar are blank black ABS from Matias.

« Last Edit: Tue, 29 December 2015, 12:47:46 by Hypersphere »

Offline E3E

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Re: Post your ALPS keyboard
« Reply #141 on: Tue, 29 December 2015, 14:47:03 »
KBP V60MTS-C with dye-sub PBT caps from an IBM 5140 "portable" computer keyboard.

(Attachment Link)

The mods and spacebar are blank black ABS from Matias.

Ahh yes, the IBM 5140 caps are great. I've been thinking about dyeing mine, but I'm not sure. They're in really good condition.

Offline Hypersphere

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Re: Post your ALPS keyboard
« Reply #142 on: Wed, 30 December 2015, 07:57:45 »
@E3E: I wouldn't want to dye the IBM 5140 caps. They look so great just as they are. However, if you try this, I hope that you have an extra set just in case the dye job does not work out well. If you do try it and it works out, please post your result!

Offline itzmeluigi

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Re: Post your ALPS keyboard
« Reply #143 on: Tue, 05 January 2016, 00:27:40 »
Got my ABS M1 SKBM black switches earlier today(basically a fullsize Filco Zero) The switches are pretty nice, although im going to swap them all out with SKCL greens. Im also going to swap the ABS M1 case out for a Majestouch2 case to make it look like an actual fullsize Filco Zero  :)) Still deciding on what keycaps to use, will probably use more Cyrillic haha.

Offline WinterIsle

  • Posts: 136
Re: Post your ALPS keyboard
« Reply #144 on: Tue, 12 January 2016, 04:27:07 »
I think I got this half year ago


« Last Edit: Tue, 12 January 2016, 04:28:44 by WinterIsle »

Offline E3E

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Re: Post your ALPS keyboard
« Reply #145 on: Tue, 12 January 2016, 05:22:55 »
Just restored this little Korean gem:







Fuzzy pics are terrible, sorry bout that. :P Put on PBT from the Dell AT101 and put the original Leading Edge caps on the AT101 since I never use it.

It's a fantastic board, but I find that I can't pull myself away from my Hammer for too long before I miss how it feels!

The Leading Edge DC-3014 is a sick keyboard though. It's pretty much a Blue Alps Model M.  Full plastic case but really solid build quality, bottom mounted plate (as opposed to mounted to the top case), and it even has a rubber dampening pad that the PCB rests on.

Daewoo really thought of so many things with this one. It's not my favorite looks wise, but I always wanted one. Took a long time to track it down! Got it from an old member for $89. :)

Needed some love, but it's quite nice, especially with PBT! I replaced the original logo as well as the cable with one from the DC-2014, since the cable on the 3014 was janked up and the logo was fading. I think it worked out well!
« Last Edit: Tue, 12 January 2016, 05:24:44 by E3E »

Offline bocahgundul

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Re: Post your ALPS keyboard
« Reply #146 on: Tue, 12 January 2016, 05:56:55 »
How do you clean the yellowed keycaps bro? Retrobrite? Can you share with me the tutorial.

Offline E3E

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Re: Post your ALPS keyboard
« Reply #147 on: Tue, 12 January 2016, 06:20:46 »
How do you clean the yellowed keycaps bro? Retrobrite? Can you share with me the tutorial.

Yeah, sure. I find that it's much more... carefree to retrobright caps in sunny weather than indoors with a strong UV light like I do, or maybe I just do it for too long.

Either way, I have a medium-sized / large cardboard box that I have lined with the shiny side of aluminum foil, then I cut the top to allow it to be raised so I can examine the inside, I rest a UV lamp in the entrance of the box and then cover it. It's not the most flawless or best way of doing it, but it works okay. I'd recommend this for cases only.

For caps, I would implore you to use the liquid form of H2O2 and soak the caps in it using a clear plastic container, shining the UV down at it through the open area. This would just be mainly set and forget since they'll be immersed. It's too easy to stain caps using the hair salon developer creme solution.  I've gotten streaks on some caps using it. No streaks when used outside in the sun, but definitely when I used the artificial light indoors.

I used Matt3o's recommened recipe of 4 parts H2O2 creme developer to 1 part water, and 1/2 parts Oxygen bleach, like oxyclean. I use some home cleaning stuff that is already in a liquid form.

Outside, you might get away with spraying and leaving for an hour before respraying, but do it for 30 minutes if you want to be safe.

Indoors, 30 minutes is best, but if you're careful, you can do an hour. I'd recommend washing the stuff off during every respray so it doesn't dry on the plastic, or else you will have to be really sure that you sprayed the plastic down well to keep the creme moist.

Yeah, it's an annoying process. My Leading Edge board took two days. Around 16 + hours of retrobrighting and it wasn't even that bad. The Dell AT101 was worse and it cleared up faster.  :eek:

Offline bocahgundul

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Re: Post your ALPS keyboard
« Reply #148 on: Tue, 12 January 2016, 06:36:56 »
How do you clean the yellowed keycaps bro? Retrobrite? Can you share with me the tutorial.

Yeah, sure. I find that it's much more... carefree to retrobright caps in sunny weather than indoors with a strong UV light like I do, or maybe I just do it for too long.

Either way, I have a medium-sized / large cardboard box that I have lined with the shiny side of aluminum foil, then I cut the top to allow it to be raised so I can examine the inside, I rest a UV lamp in the entrance of the box and then cover it. It's not the most flawless or best way of doing it, but it works okay. I'd recommend this for cases only.

For caps, I would implore you to use the liquid form of H2O2 and soak the caps in it using a clear plastic container, shining the UV down at it through the open area. This would just be mainly set and forget since they'll be immersed. It's too easy to stain caps using the hair salon developer creme solution.  I've gotten streaks on some caps using it. No streaks when used outside in the sun, but definitely when I used the artificial light indoors.

I used Matt3o's recommened recipe of 4 parts H2O2 creme developer to 1 part water, and 1/2 parts Oxygen bleach, like oxyclean. I use some home cleaning stuff that is already in a liquid form.

Outside, you might get away with spraying and leaving for an hour before respraying, but do it for 30 minutes if you want to be safe.

Indoors, 30 minutes is best, but if you're careful, you can do an hour. I'd recommend washing the stuff off during every respray so it doesn't dry on the plastic, or else you will have to be really sure that you sprayed the plastic down well to keep the creme moist.

Yeah, it's an annoying process. My Leading Edge board took two days. Around 16 + hours of retrobrighting and it wasn't even that bad. The Dell AT101 was worse and it cleared up faster.  :eek:
Thank you for the answer bro Now what I need is order all this stuff

Offline E3E

  • Posts: 2827
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Re: Post your ALPS keyboard
« Reply #149 on: Tue, 12 January 2016, 06:38:55 »
How do you clean the yellowed keycaps bro? Retrobrite? Can you share with me the tutorial.

Yeah, sure. I find that it's much more... carefree to retrobright caps in sunny weather than indoors with a strong UV light like I do, or maybe I just do it for too long.

Either way, I have a medium-sized / large cardboard box that I have lined with the shiny side of aluminum foil, then I cut the top to allow it to be raised so I can examine the inside, I rest a UV lamp in the entrance of the box and then cover it. It's not the most flawless or best way of doing it, but it works okay. I'd recommend this for cases only.

For caps, I would implore you to use the liquid form of H2O2 and soak the caps in it using a clear plastic container, shining the UV down at it through the open area. This would just be mainly set and forget since they'll be immersed. It's too easy to stain caps using the hair salon developer creme solution.  I've gotten streaks on some caps using it. No streaks when used outside in the sun, but definitely when I used the artificial light indoors.

I used Matt3o's recommened recipe of 4 parts H2O2 creme developer to 1 part water, and 1/2 parts Oxygen bleach, like oxyclean. I use some home cleaning stuff that is already in a liquid form.

Outside, you might get away with spraying and leaving for an hour before respraying, but do it for 30 minutes if you want to be safe.

Indoors, 30 minutes is best, but if you're careful, you can do an hour. I'd recommend washing the stuff off during every respray so it doesn't dry on the plastic, or else you will have to be really sure that you sprayed the plastic down well to keep the creme moist.

Yeah, it's an annoying process. My Leading Edge board took two days. Around 16 + hours of retrobrighting and it wasn't even that bad. The Dell AT101 was worse and it cleared up faster.  :eek:
Thank you for the answer bro Now what I need is order all this stuff

No problem! It can be a PITA to source all the things needed for this maddening hobby lol