DIY Alps PCB

[Yoe]

Those of you who follow me on Instagram already know what I've been up to lately, but as usual I'm going to share my recent project here too.

Even though my laser cut plates fit very snugly to keep those Alps and Matias switches in place, a PCB can make you more safe when removing key caps. It also adds stability, making the option of a less supporting case or frame possible.

When I made the design in ExpressPCB I had these priorities for the design set: #1 for easy diy etching it should be single sided; #2 the matrix should be optimized for ease of TMK setup, not for using less pins; #3 flexibility in connection to controllers, with an easy to follow pinout; #4 it needs to look pretty!

And the layout? My dear old friend, the Apple M0118 based 60%, of course

So..  after a lot of tinkering in ExpressPCB I made my first PCB, just to see how it would work. The toner transfer got bad in places (not careful enough with the iron?) and needed some repair with a pcb marker pen, and the pad placing for the switches wasn't good enough, so that needed some more careful measuring. Board number two was better. Did mess some stuff up when moving the switch placements, but for number three that has been solved. The number two board got some patching up with wire and solder. No biggie. Also it seems hard to get the pattern entirely free from gaps in the toner when transferring to the pcb, so tracing connectivity with a multimeter and repairing a gap or two is probably going to be needed for all of these boards unless I get that issue solved somehow.

The connector is a single line for connecting a Teensy 2.0 via wire or (to be tested with board number three) a direct pin connection to a Teensy++.  Numbering goes from cols 13 to 0, then rows 0 to 4. Easy to remember and follow.

Edit: Here's the PCB file  Y63.pcb (60.73 kB - downloaded 339 times.)
Edit again: Here's a PCB file for the ANSI version (not yet tested)  Y62.pcb (59.87 kB - downloaded 281 times.)
Another Edit: PDF files for both pcbs, with silkscreen as guide for placing jumpers and diodes.
 Y63.pdf (41.72 kB - downloaded 413 times.)
 Y63silkscreen.pdf (8.62 kB - downloaded 366 times.)
 Y62.pdf (41.18 kB - downloaded 347 times.)
 Y62silkscreen.pdf (8.51 kB - downloaded 326 times.)

Now for some pics:

[jaffers]

Nice work man, you did a good job of reusing alps, I am thinking of harvesting a few and reusing them myself and now you have a created a template for them ^:)



That teensy controller also reminded me of the original apple logo, I'm not sure if that was intentional on your behalf   

[Yoe]

Nice work man, you did a good job of reusing alps, I am thinking of harvesting a few and reusing them myself and now you have a created a template for them ^:)

Show Image

That teensy controller also reminded me of the original apple logo, I'm not sure if that was intentional on your behalf   :p

Sort of intentional, I guess :) Apple-like rainbow colors plus nice looking cable :) Not really right order for Apple logo, but anyway :)

[Bucake]

damn that's cool

[Yoe]

Speaking of template.. I'm going to add the ExpressPCB file to OP later, so anyone can try making one of these or use for reference. Also, the plate files could be of interest for people, so I'm throwing them in here. Y63 is my regular one based on the M0118 (ISO) and the Y62 is based on M0116 (ANSI). A Y62 version if the PCB is not made yet, but I plan to do that too.



 Y63.dwg (70.1 kB - downloaded 204 times.)



 Y62.dwg (37.9 kB - downloaded 310 times.)

[neverused]

Awesome work! I tracked this on Instagram, but it's nice to see the full log here.

[Charger]

looks nice. I have been thinking about making a single sided pcb for a project Im working on as well so it is nice seeing others doing it.

[jbondeson]

Amazing work as usual Yoe! 

Always appreciate how much you share with the community.

[Yoe]

Ok.. updated the OP with the Y63 PCB file. Y62 file to be made this weekend I guess.

Amazing work as usual Yoe! 

Always appreciate how much you share with the community.

Thank you! And thanks again for scanning the M0116 plate for me!

looks nice. I have been thinking about making a single sided pcb for a project Im working on as well so it is nice seeing others doing it.

Thanks! Yeh, it takes a bit of work and a whole lot of jumpers.. Not sure if it is any faster than making a hand wired board, but it looks good and works nicely Also I enjoyed the designing and etching parts very much

[sean]

Wow! That's really cool.

I wish I had the space to do projects like that!

[Charger]

Ok.. updated the OP with the Y63 PCB file. Y62 file to be made this weekend I guess.

looks nice. I have been thinking about making a single sided pcb for a project Im working on as well so it is nice seeing others doing it.

Thanks! Yeh, it takes a bit of work and a whole lot of jumpers.. Not sure if it is any faster than making a hand wired board, but it looks good and works nicely Also I enjoyed the designing and etching parts very much

ya I don't expect it to be faster then hand wiring, I'm decently fast at that unless I'm trying to toss in leds, its the cleaner look I'm after. I have also been doing the toner transfer pcb etching method for years as it is for making things like dog tags and even a name plate on the bottom of a keyboard I made for someone as it is I have just never used to to make a pcb lol.

[Yoe]

Ok.. updated the OP with the Y63 PCB file. Y62 file to be made this weekend I guess.

looks nice. I have been thinking about making a single sided pcb for a project Im working on as well so it is nice seeing others doing it.

Thanks! Yeh, it takes a bit of work and a whole lot of jumpers.. Not sure if it is any faster than making a hand wired board, but it looks good and works nicely Also I enjoyed the designing and etching parts very much

ya I don't expect it to be faster then hand wiring, I'm decently fast at that unless I'm trying to toss in leds, its the cleaner look I'm after. I have also been doing the toner transfer pcb etching method for years as it is for making things like dog tags and even a name plate on the bottom of a keyboard I made for someone as it is I have just never used to to make a pcb lol.

Well then, you're good to go! Etching other stuff like name plates and such things sort of happened for me too in the process.. had some smaller pcb parts that I made some test transfers to. When I got the hang of it, I made a nice little Alps logo pin for a fellow Alps fan…

[CPTBadAss]

When I got the hang of it, I made a nice little Alps logo pin for a fellow Alps fan…

I was wondering how you made that pin @.@



From here. Didn't realized it was etched. So cool. I'm going to have to pick your brain at a future point because I want to etch an Alps PCB too.

If you're not following @trasselfrisyr on instagram already, you're really missing out.

[kiwi99]

Really nice design, if I can find board to harvest I'd love to make something like this. 

[nubbinator]

That's pretty damn awesome.  I still need an idiot's guide to making your own keyboard so I can do something like this someday.

[umeboshi]

So clean, from the board to the case    Thanks for sharing!

[Yoe]

Thank you, all

Now I have made an ANSI (M0116) version of the pcb layout too. Added to OP. Not verified other than matching printout of plate to pcb silk screen layer print, and visual trace check of circuit print. If anyone finds an error, I very much appreciate a heads up

[Charger]

If I don't get around to making a pcb because of this thread at least it got me motivated to redo the tmk firmware for my handwired 40% that I messed up the firmware on lol.

[p1114501510]

Great Job. Using Alps switches is a new approach.  XD

[njbair]

Fun stuff! I don't have etching equipment but I once used a CNC mill to route out & drill a small PCB for a project. I should look into an etching setup some day.

[Yoe]

Fun stuff! I don't have etching equipment but I once used a CNC mill to route out & drill a small PCB for a project. I should look into an etching setup some day.

CNC routing PCBs.. cool, never heard of that approach before!

As for etching setups, there sure are really advanced and expensive stuff available, but I've gone for the cheap option. Haven't mentioned much about the etching part, but I might as well, if someone is curious..

Stuff to have: access to a decent laser printer; toner transfer paper (got cheap china stuff); copper clad laminate; clothes iron for the toner transfer; etching powder (ferric cloride); plastic containers for etching and water baths; protective glasses and gloves; something to put the etching liquid in after use; IPA; Acetone; some rags; a pillar drill for making the holes (like a mounted dremel).

The process:

* Print the circuit design onto toner transfer paper. If the transfer paper jams the printer because it's too flimsy, use paper based adhesive tape to mount the leading edge to regular paper.
* Sand and clean the copper side of the laminate. Use fine grit paper or steel wool and then a rag doused with isopropyl alcohol.
* Iron the toner onto the laminate. Make sure everything lines up properly. First press the iron as evenly as possible over the paper, then go over it thoroughly with the edge of the iron to really make the toner stick.
* Let the laminate cool down a bit. Don't burn yourself handling it.
* Put the laminate and paper in water. When the paper loosens up, slowly and carefully peel it off the laminate, and make sure the toner stays on the copper. If it fails, just wipe toner off with acetone and start over from step one.
* Put on protective gear.
* Pour warm water in the etching container and get the powder in. Let it dissolve.
* Put the laminate in the etching liquid and start agitating. Just keep the liquid on motion over the copper until the copper is gone. (Don't over-etch!)
* When it's done, put it in water to stop the etching.
* Clean the toner off the traces with acetone and rags
* Admire it for a while and post on Instagram
* Drill the holes. Carefully. Don't get sloppy.
* That's it!

[heedpantsnow]

Fun stuff! I don't have etching equipment but I once used a CNC mill to route out & drill a small PCB for a project. I should look into an etching setup some day.

CNC routing PCBs.. cool, never heard of that approach before!

As for etching setups, there sure are really advanced and expensive stuff available, but I've gone for the cheap option. Haven't mentioned much about the etching part, but I might as well, if someone is curious..

Stuff to have: access to a decent laser printer; toner transfer paper (got cheap china stuff); copper clad laminate; clothes iron for the toner transfer; etching powder (ferric cloride); plastic containers for etching and water baths; protective glasses and gloves; something to put the etching liquid in after use; IPA; Acetone; some rags; a pillar drill for making the holes (like a mounted dremel).

The process:

* Print the circuit design onto toner transfer paper. If the transfer paper jams the printer because it's too flimsy, use paper based adhesive tape to mount the leading edge to regular paper.
* Sand and clean the copper side of the laminate. Use fine grit paper or steel wool and then a rag doused with isopropyl alcohol.
* Iron the toner onto the laminate. Make sure everything lines up properly. First press the iron as evenly as possible over the paper, then go over it thoroughly with the edge of the iron to really make the toner stick.
* Let the laminate cool down a bit. Don't burn yourself handling it.
* Put the laminate and paper in water. When the paper loosens up, slowly and carefully peel it off the laminate, and make sure the toner stays on the copper. If it fails, just wipe toner off with acetone and start over from step one.
* Put on protective gear.
* Pour warm water in the etching container and get the powder in. Let it dissolve.
* Put the laminate in the etching liquid and start agitating. Just keep the liquid on motion over the copper until the copper is gone. (Don't over-etch!)
* When it's done, put it in water to stop the etching.
* Clean the toner off the traces with acetone and rags
* Admire it for a while and post on Instagram
* Drill the holes. Carefully. Don't get sloppy.
* That's it!

Can't you use the leftover acid to dispose of dead bodies?  Might be a faster way to recoup some of the material costs...

[Yoe]

Fun stuff! I don't have etching equipment but I once used a CNC mill to route out & drill a small PCB for a project. I should look into an etching setup some day.

CNC routing PCBs.. cool, never heard of that approach before!

As for etching setups, there sure are really advanced and expensive stuff available, but I've gone for the cheap option. Haven't mentioned much about the etching part, but I might as well, if someone is curious..

Stuff to have: access to a decent laser printer; toner transfer paper (got cheap china stuff); copper clad laminate; clothes iron for the toner transfer; etching powder (ferric cloride); plastic containers for etching and water baths; protective glasses and gloves; something to put the etching liquid in after use; IPA; Acetone; some rags; a pillar drill for making the holes (like a mounted dremel).

The process:

* Print the circuit design onto toner transfer paper. If the transfer paper jams the printer because it's too flimsy, use paper based adhesive tape to mount the leading edge to regular paper.
* Sand and clean the copper side of the laminate. Use fine grit paper or steel wool and then a rag doused with isopropyl alcohol.
* Iron the toner onto the laminate. Make sure everything lines up properly. First press the iron as evenly as possible over the paper, then go over it thoroughly with the edge of the iron to really make the toner stick.
* Let the laminate cool down a bit. Don't burn yourself handling it.
* Put the laminate and paper in water. When the paper loosens up, slowly and carefully peel it off the laminate, and make sure the toner stays on the copper. If it fails, just wipe toner off with acetone and start over from step one.
* Put on protective gear.
* Pour warm water in the etching container and get the powder in. Let it dissolve.
* Put the laminate in the etching liquid and start agitating. Just keep the liquid on motion over the copper until the copper is gone. (Don't over-etch!)
* When it's done, put it in water to stop the etching.
* Clean the toner off the traces with acetone and rags
* Admire it for a while and post on Instagram
* Drill the holes. Carefully. Don't get sloppy.
* That's it!

Can't you use the leftover acid to dispose of dead bodies?  Might be a faster way to recoup some of the material costs...

Sure, if it's a copper [punpunpun], otherwise nah.

[sean]

Thanks for the write up. I have all of that stuff except for transfer paper and copper clad laminate and I'd love to give it a try. I think I remember Ben Heck did a segment on making pcb's which I should go rewatch.

[grav3serker]

Looks great! Question about those red caps. What dye did you use?

[Yoe]

Looks great! Question about those red caps. What dye did you use?

It's Dylon multi-purpose dye, Tangerine (#39).

[Norman_the_Owl]

That PCB is insanely pretty

Great, now you've re-inspired me to make my own again

[vivalarevolución]

Just decided to look at this thread.  This is awesome.

[Yoe]

Just decided to look at this thread.  This is awesome.

Thanks

Thanks for the write up. I have all of that stuff except for transfer paper and copper clad laminate and I'd love to give it a try. I think I remember Ben Heck did a segment on making pcb's which I should go rewatch.

Cool! Just do it! I'd love some pictures of your progress when you get going, please

That PCB is insanely pretty

Great, now you've re-inspired me to make my own again

Yeh, I'm so sorry 'bout that 

[Yoe]

Got my Teensy++ 2.0 yesterday, so I tried fitting it on... so this is my idea:



Then I'll make a nice little cable from the usb jack of the Teensy to a pcb fitted jack that goes in the back of the case...



Well.. that's what's happening. Not much time for my hobby this week though.

[tufty]

Hey Yoe.  Lovely.

I don't suppose there's a chance of getting a pdf of the ANSI board layout, is there?  Have no Woindoze, but do have a M0116 that could be sacrificed to the gods of custom boarding.

Hrm.  Actually, scratch that, the M0116 is a big L return key ISO layout.

Cheers

Simon

[Yoe]

Hey Yoe.  Lovely.

I don't suppose there's a chance of getting a pdf of the ANSI board layout, is there?  Have no Woindoze, but do have a M0116 that could be sacrificed to the gods of custom boarding.

Hrm.  Actually, scratch that, the M0116 is a big L return key ISO layout.

Cheers

Simon

Hmm… not really ISO.. and not really ANSI, but anyway.. the 60% versions of M0116 and M0118 look like this if anyone wants to compare them.

http://www.keyboard-layout-editor.com/#/gists/ed2b000384294c5367ac
http://www.keyboard-layout-editor.com/#/gists/cabdba495c0c3a285aae

I'll make pdf files from both pcbs and put them in the OP. No problemo! 

Oh, and the M0116 is Y62 and M0118 is Y63. To avoid confusion.

[tufty]

You're a star.  Y62 is what I needed.

Cheers.

[Charger]

now you just need to get that teensy out of there and solder in the chips instead

[Yoe]

now you just need to get that teensy out of there and solder in the chips instead

Yeh, I knoooow… It will happen, eventually

You're a star.  Y62 is what I needed.

Cheers.

You're welcome! Would love to follow your build closely! As previously noted: the Y62 is untested, but it SHOULD work Will gladly assist if there are complications.

[sean]

now you just need to get that teensy out of there and solder in the chips instead

What's wrong with the Teensy exactly? Am I missing something?

[Charger]

now you just need to get that teensy out of there and solder in the chips instead

What's wrong with the Teensy exactly? Am I missing something?

nothing is wrong with the teensy other then it cost far more then the parts to put on the board and it would look cleaner without soldering a second pcb onto the keyboard.

[Yoe]

now you just need to get that teensy out of there and solder in the chips instead

What's wrong with the Teensy exactly? Am I missing something?

nothing is wrong with the teensy other then it cost far more then the parts to put on the board and it would look cleaner without soldering a second pcb onto the keyboard.

Exactly. And one of the points of the present version of my pcbs is that it should be as easy as possible for anyone to build at home and to program, so.. yes, not as sweet as it would be with the chip right on the board, but so much easier to build this way.

[grav3serker]

Got my Teensy++ 2.0 yesterday, so I tried fitting it on... so this is my idea:

(Attachment Link)

Then I'll make a nice little cable from the usb jack of the Teensy to a pcb fitted jack that goes in the back of the case...

(Attachment Link)

Well.. that's what's happening. Not much time for my hobby this week though.

Do you need to program the Teensy at all? I'm a total n00b when it comes to electronics and such, but I really want to make a 60% M0116.

Would it be better to buy a blank PCB and make it myself, or order it from ExpressPCB? Any help would be much appreciated! Cheers!

[Yoe]

Got my Teensy++ 2.0 yesterday, so I tried fitting it on... so this is my idea:

(Attachment Link)

Then I'll make a nice little cable from the usb jack of the Teensy to a pcb fitted jack that goes in the back of the case...

(Attachment Link)

Well.. that's what's happening. Not much time for my hobby this week though.

Do you need to program the Teensy at all? I'm a total n00b when it comes to electronics and such, but I really want to make a 60% M0116.

Would it be better to buy a blank PCB and make it myself, or order it from ExpressPCB? Any help would be much appreciated! Cheers!

You would need to adapt Hasu's TMK to this matrix and layout, but there is pretty straightforward guide by matt3o for that. I have my own modified files for the Y63 board that I can share upon request, but nothing ready made for the Y62, as I have not built one of those yet. Will of course help out should you get stuck

This design is for diy pcb making from blank boards. I recommend getting one or two 300x200 mm boards of copper clad laminate. Cut them in 300x100 pieces and you will get two keyboard pcbs from each of those. To have it fabricated by ExpressPCB would require some changes to the design, moving stuff to the other layer, using vias instead of jumpers and stuff like that.

[Yoe]

More pics:

[Yoe]

Another pic:



So, this is very close to finished now. Just needs a hole in the back for USB, and oil finish.

Also needs key caps. Sadly I'm out of them at the moment. Anyone with a M0118 lying around who wants to buy this board in its barebone state (when it is finished), just pm me.

[Laser]

Great thread! I'm interested in something ... similar, but for switches with 4 pins each (such as very low, common profile, Alps, or Space Invader switches).
Do you think it one can start from your PCB design and adapt it, or things must be started from point zero?

[Yoe]

Great thread! I'm interested in something ... similar, but for switches with 4 pins each (such as very low, common profile, Alps, or Space Invader switches).
Do you think it one can start from your PCB design and adapt it, or things must be started from point zero?

Probably not to hard to make a new component in ExpressPCB with the pinout of the switch you want to use, put them in place of the Alps ones and go from there. Or use this one for inspiration and go from scratch

[Laser]

Thanks! I kinda have no experience with this stuff (other than soldering) but - there is a start to everything

[qwack]

I am not sure what I prefer: the final result, or the way you documented the process. Anyway, great work!

[MAR82]

I really love the vintage look that the PCB has, beauty in simplicity 

[Yoe]

So... this board took a last minute exit off the ISO highway onto the ANSI turnpike. A detour via a new Y62 plate, a new Y62 pcb and a package of switches, key caps and stabilizers sent from the US. Why? Because someone wanted to buy it, and we ended up making some changes... In the end I believe all that stayed with the board was the Teensy++ 2.0 controller with its usb connectors, the inner wood frame for mounting, and the oak frame sides. Did it turn out much better than it was heading for on the previous route? Well, I'd say it did! Just some TMK editing left on it now, so you may see some pics!

[njbair]

Impressive, as always, Yoe. Those dyed keycaps look incredible.

You should offer your PBT keycap dyeing skills as a paid service in the artisan forum. I'm not joking.

[Yoe]

Impressive, as always, Yoe. Those dyed keycaps look incredible.

You should offer your PBT keycap dyeing skills as a paid service in the artisan forum. I'm not joking.

Thank you!

Yes, I'm actually considering doing that. Just feel the need to try out some more colors first, so I have a bunch of color options that I'm confident in using.

I have also recently acquired a bunch of M0116 donor keyboards, so I'm pretty close now to offering built to order Y62 boards too. I already have people on my waiting list, and I haven't even posted in the classifieds or artisan forums yet, so that's nice