Mods to make a plastic case more solid?

[ctm]

Though I really love how my V60 case looks and feels, it's a bit flimsy. It sometimes even distorts a little and does not stay perfectly flat on desk. (it can be fixed by exerting some force to bend it back, but still somewhat annoying). Is there a way to make a plastic case more solid?

[heedpantsnow]

Though I really love how my V60 case looks and feels, it's a bit flimsy. It sometimes even distorts a little and does not stay perfectly flat on desk. (it can be fixed by exerting some force to bend it back, but still somewhat annoying). Is there a way to make a plastic case more solid?

I've not seen anything about making a plastic case more rigid. You can add foam to make it sound/feel better, or weights to make it heavier.

I would guess if you wanted to make it more rigid you could epoxy some aluminum rods inside.

Does it have ridges inside or just standoffs?

[ctm]

Though I really love how my V60 case looks and feels, it's a bit flimsy. It sometimes even distorts a little and does not stay perfectly flat on desk. (it can be fixed by exerting some force to bend it back, but still somewhat annoying). Is there a way to make a plastic case more solid?

I've not seen anything about making a plastic case more rigid. You can add foam to make it sound/feel better, or weights to make it heavier.

I would guess if you wanted to make it more rigid you could epoxy some aluminum rods inside.

Does it have ridges inside or just standoffs?

Inside of the case looks like this. Also where can I get aluminum rods?

[ctm]

Though I really love how my V60 case looks and feels, it's a bit flimsy. It sometimes even distorts a little and does not stay perfectly flat on desk. (it can be fixed by exerting some force to bend it back, but still somewhat annoying). Is there a way to make a plastic case more solid?

I've not seen anything about making a plastic case more rigid. You can add foam to make it sound/feel better, or weights to make it heavier.

I would guess if you wanted to make it more rigid you could epoxy some aluminum rods inside.

Does it have ridges inside or just standoffs?

Do you think sticking a piece of wood in the case might help? I have access to a laser cutter which can only cut wood.

[suicidal_orange]

Wood could work, but how much room do you have under the PCB?  Thin wood is bendy, though if you could glue it in well even bendy would work...

Another option could be to add extra feet on the bottom to support the middle?  Wouldn't help if used on an uneven surface though.

[heedpantsnow]

I've never seen a pic of the inside of a V60 case.  It's different from other 60% cases I've examined.  What's the point in the big "hump" in the middle?  It seems to block the prime area I was suggesting you put in some aluminum rods.  The front area is too shallow to put in rods it seems.

Will aftermarket 60% cases fit the V60?  That might be your best bet, honestly.  Even a basic aluminum case like the ones on massdrop are better than the plastic stock case on my Pokers.

I have a couple of extra silver aluminum Pure cases that might fit if your interested in a second hand one.

[ctm]

I've never seen a pic of the inside of a V60 case.  It's different from other 60% cases I've examined.  What's the point in the big "hump" in the middle?  It seems to block the prime area I was suggesting you put in some aluminum rods.  The front area is too shallow to put in rods it seems.

Will aftermarket 60% cases fit the V60?  That might be your best bet, honestly.  Even a basic aluminum case like the ones on massdrop are better than the plastic stock case on my Pokers.

I have a couple of extra silver aluminum Pure cases that might fit if your interested in a second hand one.

That hump looks like this from outside. I think it looks good, but it does make modding more difficult.

[fknraiden]

if you could figure out exactly how much room you have in the case without hitting the pcb. you could always pour in a ton of jb weld.

[ctm]

if you could figure out exactly how much room you have in the case without hitting the pcb. you could always pour in a ton of jb weld.

Do you mean JB Weld Epoxy putty sticks? I have never used them before. Are they rigid after totally cured?

[ctm]

I have a couple of extra silver aluminum Pure cases that might fit if your interested in a second hand one.

Thanks but I am more interested in a black case. Just asking, is there a difference between Pure alu case and the current Pok3r case in terms on shape and height?

[heedpantsnow]

I have a couple of extra silver aluminum Pure cases that might fit if your interested in a second hand one.

Thanks but I am more interested in a black case. Just asking, is there a difference between Pure alu case and the current Pok3r case in terms on shape and height?

I own Poker X's which came with plastic cases. The pure case is inclined but slightly lower profile than the stock Poker X case. I don't know how it compares to the Pok3r case, bc I've never seen one.

[fknraiden]

if you could figure out exactly how much room you have in the case without hitting the pcb. you could always pour in a ton of jb weld.

Do you mean JB Weld Epoxy putty sticks? I have never used them before. Are they rigid after totally cured?

i've never used the putty sticks. only the part 1 and part 2 liquid pastes. It becomes very solid when completely dry, might take longer when in a huge pool of it. My guess is 3 days.
if you go this route, there is probably a better epoxy out there. maybe something that is fibreglass reinforced. Maybe someeone can chime in.

[ideus]

I'd be better to swap your PCB into a new aluminum case. At least some acrylic one.

[ctm]

if you could figure out exactly how much room you have in the case without hitting the pcb. you could always pour in a ton of jb weld.

Do you mean JB Weld Epoxy putty sticks? I have never used them before. Are they rigid after totally cured?

i've never used the putty sticks. only the part 1 and part 2 liquid pastes. It becomes very solid when completely dry, might take longer when in a huge pool of it. My guess is 3 days.
if you go this route, there is probably a better epoxy out there. maybe something that is fibreglass reinforced. Maybe someeone can chime in.

Is the one you use this one? http://www.jbweld.com/collections/epoxy-adhesives/products/j-b-weld-twin-tube

[Snowdog993]

What about a rubber compound that hardens?  It can fill the gaps nicely and harden to a level finish.
That might work.

[fknraiden]

if you could figure out exactly how much room you have in the case without hitting the pcb. you could always pour in a ton of jb weld.

Do you mean JB Weld Epoxy putty sticks? I have never used them before. Are they rigid after totally cured?

i've never used the putty sticks. only the part 1 and part 2 liquid pastes. It becomes very solid when completely dry, might take longer when in a huge pool of it. My guess is 3 days.
if you go this route, there is probably a better epoxy out there. maybe something that is fibreglass reinforced. Maybe someeone can chime in.

Is the one you use this one? http://www.jbweld.com/collections/epoxy-adhesives/products/j-b-weld-twin-tube

yes, thats what i use to repair or fill gaps. I'd never used it as a pure reinforcement. if you try that, i'd look into a larger quantity.
You could also add some rods in there next to the standoffs or whatever. You can get those at the hardware store, along with all the glue/epoxy you could imagine.

[getf]

Nowadays there are 60% cases made out of aluminum that fit practically any budget

http://www.amazon.com/iQunix-Lambo-Mechanical-Keyboard-Shell/dp/B016ICZC9W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1445994993&sr=8-1&keywords=iqunix+lambo
On the lower end of the specturm but a good deal nonetheless


woops now that I see in your signature that you have a MTS V60, im not sure that your mounting points will match up to the case I've shown. 

[fohat.digs]

Is the one you use this one? http://www.jbweld.com/collections/epoxy-adhesives/products/j-b-weld-twin-tube

I use this for everything and it is great.

Perhaps cut some coat hanger wires and epoxy them down longitudinally in both upper and lower case shells.

Ripster once posted a method for smelting lead on your backyard grill into custom-fitted ballast blocks.

[Snowdog993]

The main reason I suggested a rubber compound is so it can be removed without damaging the interior.  The suggestions made are kinda permanent I think.  If you get a rubber compound you can add fishing weights to the mix to get it to the weight you need, plus it can be removed in the future.
I would think that might be better in the future.
....just thinking ahead.

[heedpantsnow]

OP, I think you and I are similar in that we hate the feel of cheaply made stuff. The creaking/flexing of a case really gets to me. And if you're like me you love to DIY (see the link in my sig).  So I think I understand where you're coming from and what you are trying t accomplish.

That said, the hump in the middle of your case kills the best part of the case for adding strengthening material/rods. You will spend a ton of time and effort, and probably a fair amount of money on copious amounts of JB weld, etc. and you will end up with a case that will look quite ugly on the inside and may or may not be all that much improved from original. In some time, you will probably want to upgrade it to a nicer one.

Or you can just go ahead and spend less than $100 and get a nice and rigid aluminum case, in at least a few different colors. It will improve the feel and sound of your board quite a bit.  You will love how it makes the board have a premium and solid feel to it. And it looks really nice as well.

This is just my opinion, but I think you will be a lot happier in the long run if you just go ahead with the upgrade now.

[ctm]

OP, I think you and I are similar in that we hate the feel of cheaply made stuff. The creaking/flexing of a case really gets to me. And if you're like me you love to DIY (see the link in my sig).  So I think I understand where you're coming from and what you are trying t accomplish.

That said, the hump in the middle of your case kills the best part of the case for adding strengthening material/rods. You will spend a ton of time and effort, and probably a fair amount of money on copious amounts of JB weld, etc. and you will end up with a case that will look quite ugly on the inside and may or may not be all that much improved from original. In some time, you will probably want to upgrade it to a nicer one.

Or you can just go ahead and spend less than $100 and get a nice and rigid aluminum case, in at least a few different colors. It will improve the feel and sound of your board quite a bit.  You will love how it makes the board have a premium and solid feel to it. And it looks really nice as well.

This is just my opinion, but I think you will be a lot happier in the long run if you just go ahead with the upgrade now.

Thanks. I think what you said make sense. There are two main things that make me hesitate on getting a metal case. One thing is the weight. I carry my kb around all the time. The other thing is many cases are low profile, while I prefer high profile. Another minor thing is I have been using this case for one year and have some emotion with it. It's not a bad case (at least look good). I feel a little reluctant to replace it.

[heedpantsnow]

OP, I think you and I are similar in that we hate the feel of cheaply made stuff. The creaking/flexing of a case really gets to me. And if you're like me you love to DIY (see the link in my sig).  So I think I understand where you're coming from and what you are trying t accomplish.

That said, the hump in the middle of your case kills the best part of the case for adding strengthening material/rods. You will spend a ton of time and effort, and probably a fair amount of money on copious amounts of JB weld, etc. and you will end up with a case that will look quite ugly on the inside and may or may not be all that much improved from original. In some time, you will probably want to upgrade it to a nicer one.

Or you can just go ahead and spend less than $100 and get a nice and rigid aluminum case, in at least a few different colors. It will improve the feel and sound of your board quite a bit.  You will love how it makes the board have a premium and solid feel to it. And it looks really nice as well.

This is just my opinion, but I think you will be a lot happier in the long run if you just go ahead with the upgrade now.

Thanks. I think what you said make sense. There are two main things that make me hesitate on getting a metal case. One thing is the weight. I carry my kb around all the time. The other thing is many cases are low profile, while I prefer high profile. Another minor thing is I have been using this case for one year and have some emotion with it. It's not a bad case (at least look good). I feel a little reluctant to replace it.

Ok those are all reasonable aspects to consider. The only other thing I would point out now is that adding the strengthening material will probably add a non-trivial amount of weight unless you use something like carbon fiber rods. I can help you figure that out, but it will cost you more money.

Let us know what you want to do and we are happy to try to help.

[fohat.digs]

Aluminum is a very lightweight material.

And you can keep the original case and revert to it for a future sale.

[ctm]

OP, I think you and I are similar in that we hate the feel of cheaply made stuff. The creaking/flexing of a case really gets to me. And if you're like me you love to DIY (see the link in my sig).  So I think I understand where you're coming from and what you are trying t accomplish.

That said, the hump in the middle of your case kills the best part of the case for adding strengthening material/rods. You will spend a ton of time and effort, and probably a fair amount of money on copious amounts of JB weld, etc. and you will end up with a case that will look quite ugly on the inside and may or may not be all that much improved from original. In some time, you will probably want to upgrade it to a nicer one.

Or you can just go ahead and spend less than $100 and get a nice and rigid aluminum case, in at least a few different colors. It will improve the feel and sound of your board quite a bit.  You will love how it makes the board have a premium and solid feel to it. And it looks really nice as well.

This is just my opinion, but I think you will be a lot happier in the long run if you just go ahead with the upgrade now.

Thanks. I think what you said make sense. There are two main things that make me hesitate on getting a metal case. One thing is the weight. I carry my kb around all the time. The other thing is many cases are low profile, while I prefer high profile. Another minor thing is I have been using this case for one year and have some emotion with it. It's not a bad case (at least look good). I feel a little reluctant to replace it.

Ok those are all reasonable aspects to consider. The only other thing I would point out now is that adding the strengthening material will probably add a non-trivial amount of weight unless you use something like carbon fiber rods. I can help you figure that out, but it will cost you more money.

Let us know what you want to do and we are happy to try to help.

Thank you very much! Given the price of carbon fiber, I think I better get alu case instead. For alu case, I am waiting for iQunix. They already made this case http://smile.amazon.com/iQunix-Lambo-Mechanical-Keyboard-Silver/dp/B016ICZC7Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1447640501&sr=8-2&keywords=iqunix which looks quite good and has a reasonable price. They also said they will made a more simplistic style case before the end of this year. I am quiet interested in that.

[ideus]

An acrylic case is the best if you want some rigidity and light weight, the only minor trade off is their low profile. The entire idea to reinforce a cheap plastic case just does not make sense.

[Findecanor]

if you go this route, there is probably a better epoxy out there. maybe something that is fibreglass reinforced.

I would use regular epoxy adhesive and fibreglass weave. Or use epoxy and aluminium rods.
Epoxy and metal rods should be available in a bigger hardware store, or builder's supply store. Epoxy and fibreglass weave is most often found in stores for boat or car repair. You won't need cans of epoxy - a small regular pack of with a pair of tubes of epoxy should go a long way. There should be small packs of fibreglass available for small repairs.

First roughen the inside surface with some coarse sandpaper and clean away the dust - the roughening helps adhesion. Then mask off with masking tape outside where you are going to lay the epoxy.
For the next step,  I would recommend thin disposable gloves, popsicle sticks and something that can be wetted with water and used to wipe off excess with: a rag, cotton wipes or similar.

To lay the fibreglass: Cut the pieces of weave to size. You would want several for each piece. Be careful not to warp them too much because they are really flimsy and that happens easily.
Brush a thin layer of epoxy with a disposable brush. Lay down fibreglass carefully, then push it down with the brush and more epoxy. Then next layer, and so on. Be sure to not create any lumps - it is really easy to do so by mistake. It can be frustrating work.
If you get some epoxy where you don't want it, wipe it off with the wet rag. If you get epoxy on the masking tape, it is easiest to tear that off when the epoxy has cured a little bit but before it has become hard.

I would stay away from rubber compounds, polyester resin ("fibreglass resin") and auto body filled - they don't adhere well to plastic.

[mrgoldenzombie]

Ik this is sorta off topic, but has anyone tried to make a mold from a %60 case and make a new one from the casting? That would be a pretty cool idea

[heedpantsnow]

Ik this is sorta off topic, but has anyone tried to make a mold from a %60 case and make a new one from the casting? That would be a pretty cool idea

See the thread in my sig