New to forums: Want to learn soldering.

[bmilcs]

Hello. I'm Bryan, and I'm new here.

To give you a little background, I have been a computer nerd since the early 90's. I've built several computers, modded several video game consoles, and have a good deal of experience building vaping coils. However, I am really scared of dipping my toe into the soldering pool  . I will most likely be modding several boards in the future and applying my skills to future console mods.

I have one keyboard at the moment, a Kul ES-87 w/ MX Clears. I am interested in throwing in 70g springs, lubrication and modifying my stabilizers. I posted on reddit and got one response regarding starter equipment... and here is what they suggested:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015O1JKNW/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=OJZWFS2EVUB&coliid=I3V3J816T97W2B&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AS28UC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FZPGDLA/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=16GMFMZZ86YOB&coliid=IL0ANETT4AF6F
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015O1JKNW/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=16GMFMZZ86YOB&coliid=I1WMTNIEIY2QEP&psc=1

Is this a good starter setup that will last me several small projects? From what I've gathered, I should practice on old PCB boards (sadly don't know what PCB actually is) but I do know that I have several old desktops at my parents house somewhere.

As far as springs go, these are the only gold plated springs I could find:

https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=1407

And lube? I haven't gotten that far.

How does my list look for gear? How often do you hear of noobs botching their keyboard in their first attempts to solder? Should I be as afraid as I am? 

Anyways, thank you for providing such a great community that I can't wait to get more involved in. Any help is greatly appreciated!

Thanks,
Bryan

[iss]

Get rosin core solder instead, it'll be much easier. Kester 44 is always good.

[bmilcs]

Does everything else look good though?

What do you suggest for lube? Also, should I get some of those MX Cherry openers off mechanicalkeyboards.com too?

[Badwrench]

Does everything else look good though?

What do you suggest for lube? Also, should I get some of those MX Cherry openers off mechanicalkeyboards.com too?

The Weller is a fine first iron.  The other items, not so much.  As stated, get the Kester Solder (63/37 rosin core).  Much easier to work with.   The wire tip cleaner is more of a splurge item, the sponge that comes with the Weller is fine, or you can cut a $.99 kitchen sponge to fit the holder and have a little deeper cushion.  For the springs, it looks like Zeal is out of most weights, so mk.com is your best bet, and yes, get a set of switch openers from them as well, your fingers will thank you. 

As for the lube:
Zeal.pc Thick lube


Also, you will need to completely remove each switch in order to open them up as the plate does not allow you to do so while still attached to the pcb.  You will need a solder sucker:
https://www.adafruit.com/products/1597

Oh, and in case you haven't seen this thread, check it out:  The living soldering thread

[bmilcs]

Does everything else look good though?

What do you suggest for lube? Also, should I get some of those MX Cherry openers off mechanicalkeyboards.com too?

The Weller is a fine first iron.  The other items, not so much.  As stated, get the Kester Solder (63/37 rosin core).  Much easier to work with.   The wire tip cleaner is more of a splurge item, the sponge that comes with the Weller is fine, or you can cut a $.99 kitchen sponge to fit the holder and have a little deeper cushion.  For the springs, it looks like Zeal is out of most weights, so mk.com is your best bet, and yes, get a set of switch openers from them as well, your fingers will thank you. 

As for the lube:
Zeal.pc Thick lube


Also, you will need to completely remove each switch in order to open them up as the plate does not allow you to do so while still attached to the pcb.  You will need a solder sucker:
https://www.adafruit.com/products/1597

Oh, and in case you haven't seen this thread, check it out:  The living soldering thread

Thank you so much. I read through some of the Ergo Clear posts and now I'm second guessing swapping out springs and/or lube. From what I've gathered, lube reduces the tactility of the switches and so do the springs :\. Is this true?

I essentially want to reduce the force required by a smidge, while not changing the overall clear feel. I am a strong typist, meaning I slam my keys, but I'm at the point now where I bottom out less and less.

I haven't heard many people disliking Ergo Clears that have tried them. I'm just worried I might regret the mod if I do it successfully. What should I do to slightly smooth out each key press?

I am going to have to desolder regardless to fix my stabilizers. Now that I'm aware of it, it's driving me coo coo.

[CPTBadAss]

Thank you so much. I read through some of the Ergo Clear posts and now I'm second guessing swapping out springs and/or lube. From what I've gathered, lube reduces the tactility of the switches and so do the springs :\. Is this true?

I essentially want to reduce the force required by a smidge, while not changing the overall clear feel. I am a strong typist, meaning I slam my keys, but I'm at the point now where I bottom out less and less.

I haven't heard many people disliking Ergo Clears that have tried them. I'm just worried I might regret the mod if I do it successfully. What should I do to slightly smooth out each key press?

I am going to have to desolder regardless to fix my stabilizers. Now that I'm aware of it, it's driving me coo coo.

Lube can change the tactile feeling in a switch but not as much as you think it does. It's only if you use a ton of lube does the tactility change. Using a bit just smooths out the feeling of the switch. And you don't want to lube clicky switches. So just lube the switches and you'll be ok. Don't overthink it too much.

[bmilcs]

Thank you so much. I read through some of the Ergo Clear posts and now I'm second guessing swapping out springs and/or lube. From what I've gathered, lube reduces the tactility of the switches and so do the springs :\. Is this true?

I essentially want to reduce the force required by a smidge, while not changing the overall clear feel. I am a strong typist, meaning I slam my keys, but I'm at the point now where I bottom out less and less.

I haven't heard many people disliking Ergo Clears that have tried them. I'm just worried I might regret the mod if I do it successfully. What should I do to slightly smooth out each key press?

I am going to have to desolder regardless to fix my stabilizers. Now that I'm aware of it, it's driving me coo coo.

Lube can change the tactile feeling in a switch but not as much as you think it does. It's only if you use a ton of lube does the tactility change. Using a bit just smooths out the feeling of the switch. And you don't want to lube clicky switches. So just lube the switches and you'll be ok. Don't overthink it too much.

=]

I do tend to obsess until I've done it. This is all new territory for me.

[jacobolus]

You should check out at least the front page of https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=42824.0

[fohat.digs]

It was easier to Google it than find it in a wall of TL;DR but if you haven't read this, do:

https://mightyohm.com/files/soldercomic/FullSolderComic_EN.pdf

[bmilcs]

Thanks guys. Like all other topics, there is just too much info to sift through lol.

I just want to know enough to redo a keyboard or two. You know? I am bit looking to become a professional =)

[gabba-gool]

It was easier to Google it than find it in a wall of TL;DR but if you haven't read this, do:

https://mightyohm.com/files/soldercomic/FullSolderComic_EN.pdf

This is pretty cool. Thanks for the link

[bmilcs]

There is an overwhelming amount of information lol. I really just need to learn the bare-bone essentials so I can proficiently modify keyboards. Are there any particular guides that you can suggest in layman's terms on this? I have seen the ergo clear youtube video that comes up immediately and that will help a great deal when I actually perform it.

Also, what do you suggest that I practice on so that I can see that it still functions after modifying it? I have many old cards and computers at my disposal.

[gabba-gool]

There is an overwhelming amount of information lol. I really just need to learn the bare-bone essentials so I can proficiently modify keyboards. Are there any particular guides that you can suggest in layman's terms on this? I have seen the ergo clear youtube video that comes up immediately and that will help a great deal when I actually perform it.

Also, what do you suggest that I practice on so that I can see that it still functions after modifying it? I have many old cards and computers at my disposal.

https://mightyohm.com/files/soldercomic/FullSolderComic_EN.pdf

This guide kindly provided by fohat.digs is actually pretty good and very easy to understand. I've only just begun doing this kind of stuff and this made things make more sense to me. The Living Soldering Thread is a great resource if you have time to dig through it. Look at the first post and go from there. Protect yo precious boards.

[bmilcs]

Comic book style? Now we're cooking. I get paid tomorrow and hopefully will be set to order my gear

[bmilcs]

Wow that comic is absolutely perfect.

Is there a desoldering edition? This is exactly what I needed to give me the confidence to start.

[bmilcs]

Disregard.

So, do I really only need the thick lube? Will this work for the ends of the spring, sliders and the middle insertion point?

[romevi]

You've modded game consoles but have never soldered or found out what a PCB is?
Liar!

[bmilcs]

You've modded game consoles but have never soldered or found out what a PCB is?
Liar!

Aye always used  methods with no soldering. I felt limited in what I could do.

[bmilcs]

You've modded game consoles but have never soldered or found out what a PCB is?
Liar!

Ps1: I remember needing a spring and a special disc I think

Xbox original: don't recall but I failed. It lit up in blueish green flames. Lol

DS LITE had a special dock and a fake game cartridge

Xbox 360 was done with a SATA card and hacked the firmware of the optical drive

Wii software based. Letter bomb. =)

[romevi]

You've modded game consoles but have never soldered or found out what a PCB is?
Liar!

Ps1: I remember needing a spring and a special disc I think

Xbox original: don't recall but I failed. It lit up in blueish green flames. Lol

DS LITE had a special dock and a fake game cartridge

Xbox 360 was done with a SATA card and hacked the firmware of the optical drive

Wii software based. Letter bomb. =)

Eh, those are all soft mods.

[gabba-gool]

You've modded game consoles but have never soldered or found out what a PCB is?
Liar!

Ps1: I remember needing a spring and a special disc I think

Xbox original: don't recall but I failed. It lit up in blueish green flames. Lol

DS LITE had a special dock and a fake game cartridge

Xbox 360 was done with a SATA card and hacked the firmware of the optical drive

Wii software based. Letter bomb. =)

Eh, those are all soft mods.

I turned my PS1 into a PS2 when I was in middle school.

[xJudas]

One thing I did when I first learned how to solder was taking junk electronics like old VCRs (dating myself here), tv remote controllers, modem/routers, stuff that's broken or you'd otherwise throw out. I'd take the soldering iron to them and remove resistors, caps, transistors and then try putting them back on again. If you accidentally burn the board or a component, nothing valuable lost.

[lmorchard]

One thing I did when I first learned how to solder was taking junk electronics like old VCRs (dating myself here), tv remote controllers, modem/routers, stuff that's broken or you'd otherwise throw out. I'd take the soldering iron to them and remove resistors, caps, transistors and then try putting them back on again. If you accidentally burn the board or a component, nothing valuable lost.

+1000 to this. Take yourself down to a thrift store, Salvation Army, or whatever. They probably have something electronic that no one wants or will ever buy. Buy it, take it home, take it apart, desolder & re-solder everything. Get a feel for the heat & how long it takes solder to melt. Solder hastily & blow on it, watch the formation of cold solder joints. Intentionally break some things - for example, hold the iron for too long on one spot and watch things scorch & traces lift up. Melt some plastic with your iron. That's not good for the iron, but you can at least see how fast it happens and you get a sense of when & where to be careful.

[romevi]

One thing I did when I first learned how to solder was taking junk electronics like old VCRs (dating myself here), tv remote controllers, modem/routers, stuff that's broken or you'd otherwise throw out. I'd take the soldering iron to them and remove resistors, caps, transistors and then try putting them back on again. If you accidentally burn the board or a component, nothing valuable lost.

+1000 to this. Take yourself down to a thrift store, Salvation Army, or whatever. They probably have something electronic that no one wants or will ever buy. Buy it, take it home, take it apart, desolder & re-solder everything. Get a feel for the heat & how long it takes solder to melt. Solder hastily & blow on it, watch the formation of cold solder joints. Intentionally break some things - for example, hold the iron for too long on one spot and watch things scorch & traces lift up. Melt some plastic with your iron. That's not good for the iron, but you can at least see how fast it happens and you get a sense of when & where to be careful.

Wow, these are really good tips. I have a PCB from an old calculator I've been meaning to try it on, but I may consider getting additional PCBs just to test.

[bmilcs]

Thank you all. I'm getting that huge roll of solder so I'll have plenty of material to play with and practice on.

I am lost now when it comes to lube. I think I'm settled on Victrinox lube for springs but I was going to use the GH v3 Thick but $15 shipping is just too much.

What alternatives are there aside from the recommended GH? Krytox mixes are so expensive to mix on your own. Is that elitekeyboard version on Amazon any good?

[romevi]

Thank you all. I'm getting that huge roll of solder so I'll have plenty of material to play with and practice on.

I am lost now when it comes to lube. I think I'm settled on Victrinox lube for springs but I was going to use the GH v3 Thick but $15 shipping is just too much.

What alternatives are there aside from the recommended GH? Krytox mixes are so expensive to mix on your own. Is that elitekeyboard version on Amazon any good?

Yeah, all this lubing is getting me confused. All different kinds and guides--it's enough to drive a man insane!

[bmilcs]

Alrighty! My Weller, solder sucker, and 63/37 rosin core are here!

Are there any specific youtube guides that are recommended when starting off?'

I picked up several very outdated video cards and various PCE oldies but goodies to trash. I'm really taken back by the small size of most of the solder points. There are a couple on each that are large but not many.

[fohat.digs]

Replacement tips come pointed and can get down very small. Those tiny parts are tedious. Be sure to get as much of the old solder out of the way as possible.

For me, once a tip starts getting ugly, I usually file it into a wedge shape, which is often more useful than a point. I keep filing and use them down to a nub, but that won't work in tight areas.

[bmilcs]

The included tip with this Weller kit is huge. I would much rather a smaller, more maneuverable ones.

Also, should I invest in some liquid flux to make things easier? I really don't want to butcher my first mod!

I can't get the damn wire unplugged from the PCB on my KUL ES-87. It doesn't have the same connector at shown in the White Dragon video. Any ideas? I tried to gently nudge just the white connector and it slightly cracked -_-. Hopefully I didn't do any damage.

[hoosieree]

Pro tip:

A "cold" solder joint is one where the solder was melted not by the parts, but by the iron.  Cold solder joints often have a hazy or crinkly aluminum foil look to them.  Good solder joints are shiny.

[bmilcs]

Thank you. So, ideally, I don't want the solder to touch the actual tip but the pin or the metal of the board.

[MassdropAlex]

Alrighty! My Weller, solder sucker, and 63/37 rosin core are here!

Are there any specific youtube guides that are recommended when starting off?'

I picked up several very outdated video cards and various PCE oldies but goodies to trash. I'm really taken back by the small size of most of the solder points. There are a couple on each that are large but not many.

Everyone should watch

Pretty old, but still the best soldering tutorial series.

[bmilcs]

DSC_8805.jpg by bmilcs, on Flickr

Here is a photo of a desoldered, resoldered, desoldered, resoldered old dirty board I'm learning on.

What is wrong with these joints? Am I not leaving the tip on there long enough to spread out and form on the side that it layed on?

Excuse all the flux. I've gone at these things hard. Any tips welcome!

DSC_8808.jpg by bmilcs, on Flickr

Honestly, why does this look so horrendous? Aside from the fact that I've been going at it hard.

[Badwrench]

Show Image

DSC_8805.jpg by bmilcs, on Flickr

Here is a photo of a desoldered, resoldered, desoldered, resoldered old dirty board I'm learning on.

What is wrong with these joints? Am I not leaving the tip on there long enough to spread out and form on the side that it layed on?

Excuse all the flux. I've gone at these things hard. Any tips welcome!

Show Image

DSC_8808.jpg by bmilcs, on Flickr

Honestly, why does this look so horrendous? Aside from the fact that I've been going at it hard.

Take some isopropyl alcohol on a qtip and clean up all the flux and then look at it.  Multiple reworks of the same area can really add up to the amount of rosin to the area. 

[bmilcs]

Show Image

DSC_8805.jpg by bmilcs, on Flickr

Here is a photo of a desoldered, resoldered, desoldered, resoldered old dirty board I'm learning on.

What is wrong with these joints? Am I not leaving the tip on there long enough to spread out and form on the side that it layed on?

Excuse all the flux. I've gone at these things hard. Any tips welcome!

Show Image

DSC_8808.jpg by bmilcs, on Flickr

Honestly, why does this look so horrendous? Aside from the fact that I've been going at it hard.

Take some isopropyl alcohol on a qtip and clean up all the flux and then look at it.  Multiple reworks of the same area can really add up to the amount of rosin to the area.

Funny you suggested that

Here... I desoldered a few. Several on this old graphics card will not budge... despite multiple angles... cleaning the tip incessantly and adding solder...

DSC_8823.jpg by bmilcs, on Flickr

DSC_8821.jpg by bmilcs, on Flickr

Clearly Q-tips are not good for this. They are leaving a lot of stray cotton pieces on there. What are some better alternatives?

[hoosieree]

Thank you. So, ideally, I don't want the solder to touch the actual tip but the pin or the metal of the board.

You want the solder joint to be made when the parts you're joining are hot enough to melt the solder.  But this reminds me of pro tip #2:

Put a small amount of solder on the iron *before* touching it to the parts.  Compared to a clean-tipped iron, an iron with a bit of solder on it has more surface area and makes better contact with the parts, which makes for a faster and more uniform heat transfer.

But the thing to remember is that this little bit of solder has one purpose only (improve heat transfer) and you should then use *other* solder to feed into the heated parts to make the joint.


This can make your soldering faster and more consistent, but like the comic said, there's a wide range of "good" solder joints, so don't worry about it too much.  File these tips under "good habits" rather than "unbreakable laws".

[bmilcs]

DSC_8842.jpg by bmilcs, on Flickr

DSC_8840.jpg by bmilcs, on Flickr

DSC_8839.jpg by bmilcs, on Flickr

[bmilcs]

Don't mind the oddly shaped ones. Those are failed desoldering jobs.