KUL ES-87 - Planning Ergo-Clear + More; Suggestions?

[bmilcs]

Hello fellow keyboard fans,

I own a single mechanical keyboard and love it: KUL ES-87 w/ stock MX Clears / ABS keycaps.

So far, I have the following on the way:

• Cherry Profile: Gateron Blank PBT keycap set: Dark grey / Dark grey
• DSA Profile:Granite Basic Keycap set / text modifiers
• SA Profile: Praying that the PULSE SA GB goes live at the expected date

I am planning my Ergo-Clear mod for next weekend. In addition to that, I want to clip the stabilizers and swap out the space bar switch with an MX Grey as I've heard this is a nice improvement.

• - [Soldering Station] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AS28UC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER)
• - [Solder Sucker] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L2HRW92/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A15QN6QABYC6HS)
• - [Solder] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0149K4JTY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3VDBPE82S43CG)
• - [Keycap Puller] (https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=949)
• - [MX Switch Disassembly] (https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=1363)
• - [Spring Lube] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FTQP00/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2M1W6RQC7V8KB)
• - [Springs] (https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=1407)
• - [Spacebar MX Gray] (https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=717)

Lube: I've already spent quite a bit on my keyboard and really don't want to throw down $15 to ship out GHK V3 thick lube for the switches.

What lube do you recommend purchasing, preferably from Amazon? I have seen the EliteKeyboards Mechlube 2.0 but am wondering how this will work on a tactile switch.

I would also like to dampen noise a bit (foam pad/shelf liner) because I bring my keyboard into the office twice a week.
Has anyone done this successfully with the KUL ES-87? If so, where do you suggest I pick up something that will work well in this application? Amazon Prime worthy would be perfect =]

Because I love stock MX clears, I don't want to stray far from the strength of the original spring. 24K 68G springs sound like they should fit the bill nicely.

Thank you all so much for your help thus far. I greatly appreciate all of your knowledge and encouragement as I embark on my first soldering experience! You have been wonderful

- Bryan

PS: I know in my heart of hearts, I will be building a custom at some point in the next year so I am making sure I cover all of my bases.

[bmilcs]

Edit: Oops.

Again, I apologize for the wall of text and for anyone who read my initial post a few days ago. I've added several things to my agenda and wanted to get a dedicated post for these issues.

[lunas]

Interested to hear how your Ergo mod goes. I've got a Pok3r with stock Clears and did some experimenting with sound dampening. I used a sorbothane sheet inside the case which was probably overkill, but it did make a difference.


I got more results from just using a mouse pad under the keyboard. Most of my noise comes from the desk so the pad does a good job of isolating it. I did some recordings and I thought more quieting came from the pad vs the case liner, but both did make a difference. I use both since I already took the case apart, but you could probably get the biggest effect with just the pad.

[iLLucionist]

Interested to hear how your Ergo mod goes. I've got a Pok3r with stock Clears and did some experimenting with sound dampening. I used a sorbothane sheet inside the case which was probably overkill, but it did make a difference.


I got more results from just using a mouse pad under the keyboard. Most of my noise comes from the desk so the pad does a good job of isolating it. I did some recordings and I thought more quieting came from the pad vs the case liner, but both did make a difference. I use both since I already took the case apart, but you could probably get the biggest effect with just the pad.

How thick is the sheet? Did it fit easily? The pok3r seems quite low profile..

[axtran]

I actually recommend using a lighter switch (62g 24K from mechanicalkeyboards.com), sorbothane under the keyboard (get that from amazon.com). When you're in there, remember to remove the Cherry Stabilizers and clip them, it will eliminate the out-of-box mushiness of the Cherry Stabilizers, and you also have the option of replacing the LEDs (I went with White)

I'm an avid user and big fan of EK MechLube 2 (I use it on ALL of my MX and Topre mods). They feel great on MX Clear switches. The switch top removal tool also isn't necessary as the KUL plate isn't removable from the PCB even with all switches desoldered (it's bent onto the PCB). Save yourself some money, unless you think you're going to use it in the future.

Last upgrade that you could do is buying a different color shroud for the top of the KUL, I'm a fan of the white one myself, but whatever matches the keycaps you'll buy in the future, or stick with the black! Good luck modding your KUL, I had a great time modding mine to MX Whites before I sold it

[bmilcs]

I actually recommend using a lighter switch (62g 24K from mechanicalkeyboards.com), sorbothane under the keyboard (get that from amazon.com). When you're in there, remember to remove the Cherry Stabilizers and clip them, it will eliminate the out-of-box mushiness of the Cherry Stabilizers, and you also have the option of replacing the LEDs (I went with White)

I'm an avid user and big fan of EK MechLube 2 (I use it on ALL of my MX and Topre mods). They feel great on MX Clear switches. The switch top removal tool also isn't necessary as the KUL plate isn't removable from the PCB even with all switches desoldered (it's bent onto the PCB). Save yourself some money, unless you think you're going to use it in the future.

Last upgrade that you could do is buying a different color shroud for the top of the KUL, I'm a fan of the white one myself, but whatever matches the keycaps you'll buy in the future, or stick with the black! Good luck modding your KUL, I had a great time modding mine to MX Whites before I sold it

I can't figure out how to remove the cable from the PCB! What do I do? I don't see the small pin insertion point as compared to the Ergo Clear video!

[axtran]

I actually recommend using a lighter switch (62g 24K from mechanicalkeyboards.com), sorbothane under the keyboard (get that from amazon.com). When you're in there, remember to remove the Cherry Stabilizers and clip them, it will eliminate the out-of-box mushiness of the Cherry Stabilizers, and you also have the option of replacing the LEDs (I went with White)

I'm an avid user and big fan of EK MechLube 2 (I use it on ALL of my MX and Topre mods). They feel great on MX Clear switches. The switch top removal tool also isn't necessary as the KUL plate isn't removable from the PCB even with all switches desoldered (it's bent onto the PCB). Save yourself some money, unless you think you're going to use it in the future.

Last upgrade that you could do is buying a different color shroud for the top of the KUL, I'm a fan of the white one myself, but whatever matches the keycaps you'll buy in the future, or stick with the black! Good luck modding your KUL, I had a great time modding mine to MX Whites before I sold it

I can't figure out how to remove the cable from the PCB! What do I do? I don't see the small pin insertion point as compared to the Ergo Clear video!

Hmm, you shouldn't need to use the pin insertion point, it is just an easy to remove plug. Got any pictures?

[xondat]

Do you have to desolder everything with the KUL? I'm tempted to do the same with my WASD but it has costar stabs and the PCB is awful so I'd be verging on a massive waste of time even if I killed 1 switch.

[jamster]

I have a KUL modded to 65g. The Mechlube 2 stuff is fine on these switches. O-rings take the edge of the clack noises.

Though if you love the feel of clears, why bother with ergo clears at all? It's a fair bit of effort and money that you're spending on parts. I only did the mod because I couldn't stand the feel of a standard clear switch. Or is this a practice run for later?

[iLLucionist]

Could you like.. make a lot of pictures on the way? I'm really curious to see and to learn from your experience. I want to get into customs and soldering myself, but I'm a n00b in soldering etc.

[bmilcs]

Aye! I am happy to make a post with photos.

I already made all my purchases so no turning back now! I practiced desoldering an old video card but the solder points are SO tiny.. miniscule... and the provided tip is like a large flathead. Amazon was out of stock of the ST7 Weller tip, so I went with the ST5. That is on the way now. In addition, I added that brass tip cleaner because I don't enjoy using a wet sponge. Feels very weird considering you want to avoid oxidation.

I wanted to learn the art of soldering for some time now. I would love to be able to fix old headphones, speakers, etc. I'm still a bit confused on the whole process but from what I've gathered / tried...

1st, you clean your tip on the moist sponge, then tin it (melt a small layer of solder on your tip), then you bring it to your board. Is this about right? There is so much info out there, and the soldering post is insanely long. Hard to weed through the whole thing, especially when time is limited w/ 2 kids, wife, full time job, etc.

Here's what I've ordered so far:

 Solder Sucker - Desoldering Pump, $7.19 Amazon Add-on, high rated, seems to work well
 Weller WLC100 40-Watt Soldering Station
 Hakko 599B-02 Solder Tip Cleaning Wire and Holder
 Weller Single Flat Tip, .031": WLC100 WELST5
 Martha Stewart 32247 Brushes, Detailing, Set of 5 (for lube)
 Victorinox 4.3301 Swiss Army Knife Multitool Oil (for springs)
 DuPont Krytox GPL 205 Grease, Pure PFPE / PTFE No Additives, 0.5 oz Tube (for mx switch)
 Kester 44 Rosin Core Solder 66/44 0.80mm(0.31 inches) 1 lb. Spool (MASSIVE ROLL OF SOLDER.)

In addition, I have:
100x 68g 24k Gold Springs
Metal keycap puller
MX Switch opener (unnecessary)
A few MX Grays for spacebar, thinking about adding a few more for shift / tab, we'll see.



With a finer pointed tip, it should be rather easy. I'm more nervous about resoldering than desoldering. I haven't been able to practice much because of the PCB I have available. They have either super small points or oval shaped ones. I opened my keyboard and the solder pts there are MASSIVE in comparison.


With the Weller WLC, what setting do you recommend for doing the desoldering? I had it cranked to 5 but I don't think it's necessary. I don't want to chance burning my precious keyboard. Also, how about soldering? It goes from 5-40 watts.

Also, how should I dispense this lube? Should I empty the tube into a glass container? This seems like the best route.

The KUL ES-87 white cable end doesn't seem to have pins but I am afraid of pulling any harder. Half of the white portion cracked off already so the wires are rather loose. Can these be replaced easily? Its the wire that connects the board to the case / USB entry point

[bmilcs]

I have a KUL modded to 65g. The Mechlube 2 stuff is fine on these switches. O-rings take the edge of the clack noises.

Though if you love the feel of clears, why bother with ergo clears at all? It's a fair bit of effort and money that you're spending on parts. I only did the mod because I couldn't stand the feel of a standard clear switch. Or is this a practice run for later?

I am a hobby enthusiast. I love diving into the deep end and really getting the most of whatever hobby I'm into at the time. It's created so many opportunities for me to learn other trades and cool niche skills. I am fairly poor but I manage money well and live below my means. My stepsons are absolutely spoiled to death by family and I'm happily married so I splurge here and there.

Anyways, soldering has always peaked my interest. For over a decade, I've stayed clear because it was so intimidating for me. Yes I dropped about $150 so far in parts for this mod but I want to do it right and learn the craft. This will not be my only walk in the park if ya catch my drift

I do enjoy clears a lot but that is because I haven't tasted the finer things in life . Grass is always greener, yanno? I want to make the most out of my current keyboard and this seems to be the right way to go. I hated MX Reds and Clears is where I went next. That is all I know, aside from the rubber domed POS'es I've used my entire life. Clears are tiring if I don't watch my technique. I often like to bottom out, which I find very satisfying at times in 'work mode'.

[jamster]

With a finer pointed tip, it should be rather easy. I'm more nervous about resoldering than desoldering. I haven't been able to practice much because of the PCB I have available. They have either super small points or oval shaped ones. I opened my keyboard and the solder pts there are MASSIVE in comparison.

My own experience was that soldering was piss easy and quite relaxing. It was desoldering that I found fiddly until I got the hang of it about halfway through (I broke a circuit trace because of my cack handed desoldering and had to have someone fix it for me).

[iLLucionist]

My own experience was that soldering was piss easy and quite relaxing. It was desoldering that I found fiddly until I got the hang of it about halfway through (I broke a circuit trace because of my cack handed desoldering and had to have someone fix it for me).

How did you start (learning) soldering?

[bmilcs]

With a finer pointed tip, it should be rather easy. I'm more nervous about resoldering than desoldering. I haven't been able to practice much because of the PCB I have available. They have either super small points or oval shaped ones. I opened my keyboard and the solder pts there are MASSIVE in comparison.

My own experience was that soldering was piss easy and quite relaxing. It was desoldering that I found fiddly until I got the hang of it about halfway through (I broke a circuit trace because of my cack handed desoldering and had to have someone fix it for me).

I really think that the stock screwdriver flathead tip w/ the WLC100 made it much more difficult. The ST7 was out of stock so I ordered an ST5 for the meantime.

[axtran]

Here's the thing about soldering--it's easy to heat the soldering lead. That's not the goal though--the goal is making the two things that you want to solder together hot enough so that they attract the soldering lead to form a bond on your behalf. If you do nothing but heat the soldering lead, you'll get "cold solder joints."

Your idea of getting a tad of soldering lead onto the tip is good--however know that flux is there to make things both protected against oxidation, as well as assist in attracting the soldering lead.

[bmilcs]

DSC_8842.jpg by bmilcs, on Flickr

DSC_8841.jpg by bmilcs, on Flickr

DSC_8840.jpg by bmilcs, on Flickr

These are soldered / re-soldered joints I've been working on. Aside from the mangled joints I couldn't get out for the life of me, how do the normal ones look?

[iLLucionist]

These are soldered / re-soldered joints I've been working on. Aside from the mangled joints I couldn't get out for the life of me, how do the normal ones look?

Those are some cool close up pics!

[axtran]

Looks good

Adding flux or fresh solder will clean those mangled ones up. They're just being heated too much/too long and starting to look bad, is all.

[jamster]

My own experience was that soldering was piss easy and quite relaxing. It was desoldering that I found fiddly until I got the hang of it about halfway through (I broke a circuit trace because of my cack handed desoldering and had to have someone fix it for me).

How did you start (learning) soldering?

Played around with a crap iron with a conical tip occasionally in my spare time over the years, watched a couple of online tutorials and tried a proper soldering station with a screwdriver tip, and realised that unless you have shaky hands, soldering with the right equipment is bloody easy.

Oh, and as a result of the tutorials I realised what flux/resin is and why you can't keep soldering if it's all burnt off.

[iLLucionist]

My own experience was that soldering was piss easy and quite relaxing. It was desoldering that I found fiddly until I got the hang of it about halfway through (I broke a circuit trace because of my cack handed desoldering and had to have someone fix it for me).

How did you start (learning) soldering?

Played around with a crap iron with a conical tip occasionally in my spare time over the years, watched a couple of online tutorials and tried a proper soldering station with a screwdriver tip, and realised that unless you have shaky hands, soldering with the right equipment is bloody easy.

Oh, and as a result of the tutorials I realised what flux/resin is and why you can't keep soldering if it's all burnt off.

Good to know, thanks! I really want to start soldering. I imagine it to be very peaceful and relaxing.

[jamster]

Good to know, thanks! I really want to start soldering. I imagine it to be very peaceful and relaxing.

Especially when you inhale enough of those fumes, yeah

Seriously, if you have your desk set up right and use decent gear, it can be very relaxing.

[berserkfan]

I don't recommend gray for spacebar unless you are using a metal bar. It tires out your thumbs.

[jamster]

I'm using grey for space, feels preferable to using the 65g springs that I have in the rest of the switches. Also note that the OP seems to like stiff switches given that he's happy with standard clears

[bmilcs]

I'm using grey for space, feels preferable to using the 65g springs that I have in the rest of the switches. Also note that the OP seems to like stiff switches given that he's happy with standard clears

I'm thinking I should've gone the 65g route. 68g is definitively more stiff than stock clears as I've been told. We shall see.

With my broken connector, I am not going to be using it for a while :\

I am looking at getting another keyboard in the meantime. I'm leaning towards a Pok3r w/ blues or greens. I'd like something slightly less heavy than clears w/ more tactility and clacks.

[iLLucionist]

I'm using grey for space, feels preferable to using the 65g springs that I have in the rest of the switches. Also note that the OP seems to like stiff switches given that he's happy with standard clears

I'm thinking I should've gone the 65g route. 68g is definitively more stiff than stock clears as I've been told. We shall see.

With my broken connector, I am not going to be using it for a while :\

I am looking at getting another keyboard in the meantime. I'm leaning towards a Pok3r w/ blues or greens. I'd like something slightly less heavy than clears w/ more tactility and clacks.

The default layer of the pok3r (tilde, backtick, and arrow keys) steered my away from the pok3r.