Steezus's Apple Silver 360 Corsa Build Log(Build In Progress)

[Steezus]

Steezus's Apple Silver 360c Build Log

The 360 Corsa, 360c for short, was developed by members of the Korean keyboard community OTD.kr

The case anodization came in the variants of Apple Silver and Hyper Grey, the plate is anodized aluminum. Out of all the customs I own, the 360c is the best in terms of quality. The machining and anodization of this board is phenomenal. The brass weight is amazing, it weighs more than the rest of the board. The red anodization of the plate is a very bright and vibrant color.

The board was meant to be used with a PS/2 cable. I will instead be using GON's A356 Controller to convert it to USB.

Apple Silver 360 Corsa Kit

I'm still waiting for a few parts to complete this build, I will be updating this thread as there is progress made.

[asdfjkl36]

I will live through you )

[KetchyKech]

Wow can't wait to see how this turns out! Congrats on the acquisition! 

[filphil]

If there are no plans to polish that brass weight I will be the sads.

[naasfu]

liked and subscribed!

[Steezus]

If there are no plans to polish that brass weight I will be the sads.

Oh don't worry, that brass weight will get a good polishing. I was actually debating as to whether or not to paint the engraving similar to what you do to turn your Jane. I thought it turned out amazing.

[filphil]

If there are no plans to polish that brass weight I will be the sads.

Oh don't worry, that brass weight will get a good polishing. I was actually debating as to whether or not to paint the engraving similar to what you do to turn your Jane. I thought it turned out amazing.

My issue with that would be in the larger 360c engravings.  To make it look seamless you would have to thin the paint more with multiple passes.  It would take more time but I'm sure if you make the commitment it'll look fantastic.  The Jane engravings look smaller in comparison so I did mine quickly because it was a spur of a moment thing to document it. 

[Waateva]

Hey, you don't happen to like custom TKL boards do you? 

[Steezus]

If there are no plans to polish that brass weight I will be the sads.

Oh don't worry, that brass weight will get a good polishing. I was actually debating as to whether or not to paint the engraving similar to what you do to turn your Jane. I thought it turned out amazing.

My issue with that would be in the larger 360c engravings.  To make it look seamless you would have to thin the paint more with multiple passes.  It would take more time but I'm sure if you make the commitment it'll look fantastic.  The Jane engravings look smaller in comparison so I did mine quickly because it was a spur of a moment thing to document it.

Yeah it may be rather tricky to do, a lot more engraving as well. I still have time to think it over. I'm getting anxious waiting for all the parts to come in haha, I just want to build it now.

[ika]

I wonder if you could use some sort of vinyl-based paint (something that would be peelable and completely removable). If you apply it properly it should be seamless, and it should be removable if necessary.

[Steezus]

Hey, you don't happen to like custom TKL boards do you? 

I absolutely hate them.

I wonder if you could use some sort of vinyl-based paint (something that would be peelable and completely removable). If you apply it properly it should be seamless, and it should be removable if necessary.

That's a good idea, that gives me some room for error and still be able to correct the issue. I would be devastated if I messed it up and it was permanent.

[filphil]

As long as you use an acrylic, enamel, or lacquer paint it's usually easily removable. 

I used enamel because from my experience enamel paint and the thinning agent(zippo lighter fluid in my case) were the least destructive.  Plus the materials are easy to find at your local arts/hobby store(micheals for me). 

My favorite paints to use in modelling is lacquer but lacquer thinner wreaks havoc if you're not careful.

Acrylic is removed by a number of  liquids.  Windex, rubbing alcohol, and lacquer thinner all work to some degree on acrylic paints. 

Here's an example from today of what I used enamel paints for to fill in the black lined vents of this model. 



EDIT:

So this is the general idea of how I did my engraving.  It's a much larger scale and I didn't use a pre-mix product like the guy in the video but this will pretty show you the process.

[Steezus]

As long as you use an acrylic, enamel, or lacquer paint it's usually easily removable. 

I used enamel because from my experience enamel paint and the thinning agent(zippo lighter fluid in my case) were the least destructive.  Plus the materials are easy to find at your local arts/hobby store(micheals for me). 

My favorite paints to use in modelling is lacquer but lacquer thinner wreaks havoc if you're not careful.

Acrylic is removed by a number of  liquids.  Windex, rubbing alcohol, and lacquer thinner all work to some degree on acrylic paints. 

Here's an example from today of what I used enamel paints for to fill in the black lined vents of this model. 

Show Image

Thank you very much for the info filphil, I greatly appreciate it. :thumb:

I'm thinking of going with a silver color similar to the case to fill in the engravings. I think that would be subtle enough but sure make it pop out.

Would something like this be of good quality to use?
http://www.amazon.com/Folk-Art-4034-Metallic-Sterling/dp/B000BQJSKQ

[filphil]

As long as you use an acrylic, enamel, or lacquer paint it's usually easily removable. 

I used enamel because from my experience enamel paint and the thinning agent(zippo lighter fluid in my case) were the least destructive.  Plus the materials are easy to find at your local arts/hobby store(micheals for me). 

My favorite paints to use in modelling is lacquer but lacquer thinner wreaks havoc if you're not careful.

Acrylic is removed by a number of  liquids.  Windex, rubbing alcohol, and lacquer thinner all work to some degree on acrylic paints. 

Here's an example from today of what I used enamel paints for to fill in the black lined vents of this model. 

Show Image

Thank you very much for the info filphil, I greatly appreciate it. :thumb:

I'm thinking of going with a silver color similar to the case to fill in the engravings. I think that would be subtle enough but sure make it pop out.

Would something like this be of good quality to use?
http://www.amazon.com/Folk-Art-4034-Metallic-Sterling/dp/B000BQJSKQ

Take a look at the video i posted first in my edit. 

The good thing about paints is that you can mix and match as much as you want as long as they're from the same family ie. acylic, enamel, lacquer. 
And since it's an enamel you can easily erase it with zippo lighter fluid and cotton swabs. 

[Steezus]

As long as you use an acrylic, enamel, or lacquer paint it's usually easily removable. 

I used enamel because from my experience enamel paint and the thinning agent(zippo lighter fluid in my case) were the least destructive.  Plus the materials are easy to find at your local arts/hobby store(micheals for me). 

My favorite paints to use in modelling is lacquer but lacquer thinner wreaks havoc if you're not careful.

Acrylic is removed by a number of  liquids.  Windex, rubbing alcohol, and lacquer thinner all work to some degree on acrylic paints. 

Here's an example from today of what I used enamel paints for to fill in the black lined vents of this model. 

Show Image

Thank you very much for the info filphil, I greatly appreciate it. :thumb:

I'm thinking of going with a silver color similar to the case to fill in the engravings. I think that would be subtle enough but sure make it pop out.

Would something like this be of good quality to use?
http://www.amazon.com/Folk-Art-4034-Metallic-Sterling/dp/B000BQJSKQ

Take a look at the video i posted first in my edit. 

The good thing about paints is that you can mix and match as much as you want as long as they're from the same family ie. acylic, enamel, lacquer. 
And since it's an enamel you can easily erase it with zippo lighter fluid and cotton swabs.

That doesn't seem too difficult, although the engravings for the bronze weight are much wider so it'll be difficult to make it more even like you said. Did you clear coat your bronze weight by chance? I'm thinking that would be good as well to make it keep it's shine and not patina.

[filphil]

As long as you use an acrylic, enamel, or lacquer paint it's usually easily removable. 

I used enamel because from my experience enamel paint and the thinning agent(zippo lighter fluid in my case) were the least destructive.  Plus the materials are easy to find at your local arts/hobby store(micheals for me). 

My favorite paints to use in modelling is lacquer but lacquer thinner wreaks havoc if you're not careful.

Acrylic is removed by a number of  liquids.  Windex, rubbing alcohol, and lacquer thinner all work to some degree on acrylic paints. 

Here's an example from today of what I used enamel paints for to fill in the black lined vents of this model. 

Show Image

Thank you very much for the info filphil, I greatly appreciate it. :thumb:

I'm thinking of going with a silver color similar to the case to fill in the engravings. I think that would be subtle enough but sure make it pop out.

Would something like this be of good quality to use?
http://www.amazon.com/Folk-Art-4034-Metallic-Sterling/dp/B000BQJSKQ

Take a look at the video i posted first in my edit. 

The good thing about paints is that you can mix and match as much as you want as long as they're from the same family ie. acylic, enamel, lacquer. 
And since it's an enamel you can easily erase it with zippo lighter fluid and cotton swabs.

That doesn't seem too difficult, although the engravings for the bronze weight are much wider so it'll be difficult to make it more even like you said. Did you clear coat your bronze weight by chance? I'm thinking that would be good as well to make it keep it's shine and not patina.

Yep.  Essentially thin paint and multiple passes.  It's easy to do but time consuming. 

Talking about this makes me want to redo my orion build so badly.  I have two extra PCBs just sitting around waiting to be utilized.  Gotta wait for yuktsi though since he has parts I'm waiting for.  My pink jane will be torn down and rebuilt from the ground up as well. 

[Steezus]

As long as you use an acrylic, enamel, or lacquer paint it's usually easily removable. 

I used enamel because from my experience enamel paint and the thinning agent(zippo lighter fluid in my case) were the least destructive.  Plus the materials are easy to find at your local arts/hobby store(micheals for me). 

My favorite paints to use in modelling is lacquer but lacquer thinner wreaks havoc if you're not careful.

Acrylic is removed by a number of  liquids.  Windex, rubbing alcohol, and lacquer thinner all work to some degree on acrylic paints. 

Here's an example from today of what I used enamel paints for to fill in the black lined vents of this model. 

Show Image

Thank you very much for the info filphil, I greatly appreciate it. :thumb:

I'm thinking of going with a silver color similar to the case to fill in the engravings. I think that would be subtle enough but sure make it pop out.

Would something like this be of good quality to use?
http://www.amazon.com/Folk-Art-4034-Metallic-Sterling/dp/B000BQJSKQ

Take a look at the video i posted first in my edit. 

The good thing about paints is that you can mix and match as much as you want as long as they're from the same family ie. acylic, enamel, lacquer. 
And since it's an enamel you can easily erase it with zippo lighter fluid and cotton swabs.

That doesn't seem too difficult, although the engravings for the bronze weight are much wider so it'll be difficult to make it more even like you said. Did you clear coat your bronze weight by chance? I'm thinking that would be good as well to make it keep it's shine and not patina.

Yep.  Essentially thin paint and multiple passes.  It's easy to do but time consuming. 

Talking about this makes me want to redo my orion build so badly.  I have two extra PCBs just sitting around waiting to be utilized.  Gotta wait for yuktsi though since he has parts I'm waiting for.  My pink jane will be torn down and rebuilt from the ground up as well.

Thank you very much. :D

What's a good paint to use for the clear coat? Sorry I don't know much about paints.

I love building boards, actually working on an Orion v2 now but it's not mine. Your Pink Jane is amazing, curious to see what you'll do next. :thumb:

[jaffers]

How exactly are the two halves secured together. With screws I know, but are there tapped holes or is it a slide in nut

[filphil]

For a clear coat you can try this.

http://www.amazon.com/SC-Johnson-Pledge-Multi-Surface-Finish/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1454818456&sr=8-1&keywords=future+floor+wax

It's a simple acrylic sealant and easily removable with windex. 

[SixtyLife]

beautiful board man! 360c is prob my favorite korean custom. will be following this thread with extreme jealousy 

[bocahgundul]

You finnaly get your dream board post more pic bro! I recommend on getting some OG dyesubs also!

[Steezus]

How exactly are the two halves secured together. With screws I know, but are there tapped holes or is it a slide in nut

They are just connected by screwing them in from the bottom. I posted a pic of the underside, you can see the screw holes there. Nothing really complicated, just screw them in and no nuts involved.

For a clear coat you can try this.

http://www.amazon.com/SC-Johnson-Pledge-Multi-Surface-Finish/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1454818456&sr=8-1&keywords=future+floor+wax

It's a simple acrylic sealant and easily removable with windex. 

Awesome, thank you very much for all the help filphil. I'm going all out with this board, nothing but the best.

[filphil]

How exactly are the two halves secured together. With screws I know, but are there tapped holes or is it a slide in nut

They are just connected by screwing them in from the bottom. I posted a pic of the underside, you can see the screw holes there. Nothing really complicated, just screw them in and no nuts involved.

For a clear coat you can try this.

http://www.amazon.com/SC-Johnson-Pledge-Multi-Surface-Finish/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1454818456&sr=8-1&keywords=future+floor+wax

It's a simple acrylic sealant and easily removable with windex. 

Awesome, thank you very much for all the help filphil. I'm going all out with this board, nothing but the best.

I'll check out the brass plate on the jane to see how it fared against oxidation without a clear coat. 

Edit:

So the reason I recommended pledge/future is that it won't react with the enamel paint when you apply it.  Likewise if you try to remove the clear coat with windex it won't strip the enamel paint in the process so you can reapply as much as you'd like. 

[xondat]

Finally

Really excited to follow the progress on this, very appealing board.

[Pemdas]

wow can't wait to see the build progress, but man I love the look of the unassembled kit. Looks great for pictures 

Absolutely beautiful!

[Steezus]

Thanks for all the kind words everyone, this will definitely be my favorite build yet. 

I just sent in the payment for the Nixdorf Blacks, they should hopefully arrive next week. I also bought all the necessary parts to convert the Cherry Coiled PS/2 cable into USB. My plans for keycaps now is to go with EnjoyPBT, most likely the beige set with red Cyrillics.

[bocahgundul]

Thanks for all the kind words everyone, this will definitely be my favorite build yet. 

I just sent in the payment for the Nixdorf Blacks, they should hopefully arrive next week. I also bought all the necessary parts to convert the Cherry Coiled PS/2 cable into USB. My plans for keycaps now is to go with EnjoyPBT, most likely the beige set with red Cyrillics.

Get some OG dyesub broooo or bsp!

[Steezus]

Thanks for all the kind words everyone, this will definitely be my favorite build yet. 

I just sent in the payment for the Nixdorf Blacks, they should hopefully arrive next week. I also bought all the necessary parts to convert the Cherry Coiled PS/2 cable into USB. My plans for keycaps now is to go with EnjoyPBT, most likely the beige set with red Cyrillics.

Get some OG dyesub broooo or bsp!

No.

[bocahgundul]

Thanks for all the kind words everyone, this will definitely be my favorite build yet. 

I just sent in the payment for the Nixdorf Blacks, they should hopefully arrive next week. I also bought all the necessary parts to convert the Cherry Coiled PS/2 cable into USB. My plans for keycaps now is to go with EnjoyPBT, most likely the beige set with red Cyrillics.

Get some OG dyesub broooo or bsp!

No.

W-w-whyy? Is it so expensive? What about bsp? This board need something special

[FrostyToast]

OG dyesubs with nixdorf black on a corsa.
That is probably the most uninspiring idea for a board I have ever heard of. I wonder how many other corsas are the exact same as that.

[whmeltonjr]

Hey Steezus, since you didn't send me your Jane or Orion like I asked, can you send me this? 

Kidding of course. Why do you get such insanely nice boards? Sometimes I wish I was a single man without responsibilities like a mortgage payment.

[bocahgundul]

OG dyesubs with nixdorf black on a corsa.
That is probably the most uninspiring idea for a board I have ever heard of. I wonder how many other corsas are the exact same as that.

Why is thats not an uninspiring idea bro? I think it would be perfect!

[piemancoder]

This is going to be amazing once finished. I think the red plate will look awesome. What keycaps do you plan on using?

[Steezus]

OG dyesubs with nixdorf black on a corsa.
That is probably the most uninspiring idea for a board I have ever heard of. I wonder how many other corsas are the exact same as that.

Agreed, I'm not so sure how many have nixdorfs but I've seen plenty of 360c boards with OG dyesubs. I figured I could mix it up a little bit and add some red cyrillics as well. I do have the standard beige Cherry Coiled PS/2 cable coming but I will be cutting off both ends and converting it to USB to "modernize" the board slightly. The other benefit to GON's A356 controller is that I can remap the layout if I so desire.

Hey Steezus, since you didn't send me your Jane or Orion like I asked, can you send me this? 

Kidding of course. Why do you get such insanely nice boards? Sometimes I wish I was a single man without responsibilities like a mortgage payment.

Sure PM me your address and I'll send you the board, just pay for shipping.

I guess I have good but expensive taste haha. I am blessed to not have many bills to focus on and dedicate more of my money towards this hobby. However, I am going to try my best to slow down after another board I have in mind. It is starting to take a toll on my wallet.

This is going to be amazing once finished. I think the red plate will look awesome. What keycaps do you plan on using?

In the beginning I will be using my OTD Red Alert set. I did put an order in Shadovved's GB for a red cyrillic set that I'm thinking will look better on the board.

[bocahgundul]

Agreed, I'm not so sure how many have nixdorfs but I've seen plenty of 360c boards with OG dyesubs. I figured I could mix it up a little bit and add some red cyrillics as well. I do have the standard beige Cherry Coiled PS/2 cable coming but I will be cutting off both ends and converting it to USB to "modernize" the board slightly. The other benefit to GON's A356 controller is that I can remap the layout if I so desire.

This is what I want to see! You are smart steezus!

[Steezus]

Agreed, I'm not so sure how many have nixdorfs but I've seen plenty of 360c boards with OG dyesubs. I figured I could mix it up a little bit and add some red cyrillics as well. I do have the standard beige Cherry Coiled PS/2 cable coming but I will be cutting off both ends and converting it to USB to "modernize" the board slightly. The other benefit to GON's A356 controller is that I can remap the layout if I so desire.

This is what I want to see! You are smart steezus!

Haha thank you very much for the compliments. I have all the parts ordered now in order to do the modifications to the cable. I've been doing my research so I don't fry the board up. I do know that the order of connection for a PS/2 and USB is slightly varied from each other. I believe for USB I will need to solder the wires to the board as VCC, Data-, Data+, and then Ground.

[bocahgundul]

Agreed, I'm not so sure how many have nixdorfs but I've seen plenty of 360c boards with OG dyesubs. I figured I could mix it up a little bit and add some red cyrillics as well. I do have the standard beige Cherry Coiled PS/2 cable coming but I will be cutting off both ends and converting it to USB to "modernize" the board slightly. The other benefit to GON's A356 controller is that I can remap the layout if I so desire.

This is what I want to see! You are smart steezus!

Haha thank you very much for the compliments. I have all the parts ordered now in order to do the modifications to the cable. I've been doing my research so I don't fry the board up. I do know that the order of connection for a PS/2 and USB is slightly varied from each other. I believe for USB I will need to solder the wires to the board as VCC, Data-, Data+, and then Ground.

I don't know what the hell did you say but I have to say that you are a genius

The cherry coiled cable is really high quality cable. Can you make a custom mini use to sub cable out of the cherry cable?

[Steezus]

Agreed, I'm not so sure how many have nixdorfs but I've seen plenty of 360c boards with OG dyesubs. I figured I could mix it up a little bit and add some red cyrillics as well. I do have the standard beige Cherry Coiled PS/2 cable coming but I will be cutting off both ends and converting it to USB to "modernize" the board slightly. The other benefit to GON's A356 controller is that I can remap the layout if I so desire.

This is what I want to see! You are smart steezus!

Haha thank you very much for the compliments. I have all the parts ordered now in order to do the modifications to the cable. I've been doing my research so I don't fry the board up. I do know that the order of connection for a PS/2 and USB is slightly varied from each other. I believe for USB I will need to solder the wires to the board as VCC, Data-, Data+, and then Ground.

I don't know what the hell did you say but I have to say that you are a genius

The cherry coiled cable is really high quality cable. Can you make a custom mini use to sub cable out of the cherry cable?

I believe it can be done to make a mini usb to usb cable out of the cherry coiled cable. The only reason why I'm not is that the one end needs to be directly soldered into the PCB. I was contemplating as to whether or not it would be possible to solder a port on the PCB but the case would need modified in order for the mini usb port to fit which I definitely do not want to do to the case.

[bocahgundul]

Agreed, I'm not so sure how many have nixdorfs but I've seen plenty of 360c boards with OG dyesubs. I figured I could mix it up a little bit and add some red cyrillics as well. I do have the standard beige Cherry Coiled PS/2 cable coming but I will be cutting off both ends and converting it to USB to "modernize" the board slightly. The other benefit to GON's A356 controller is that I can remap the layout if I so desire.

This is what I want to see! You are smart steezus!

Haha thank you very much for the compliments. I have all the parts ordered now in order to do the modifications to the cable. I've been doing my research so I don't fry the board up. I do know that the order of connection for a PS/2 and USB is slightly varied from each other. I believe for USB I will need to solder the wires to the board as VCC, Data-, Data+, and then Ground.

I don't know what the hell did you say but I have to say that you are a genius

The cherry coiled cable is really high quality cable. Can you make a custom mini use to sub cable out of the cherry cable?

I believe it can be done to make a mini usb to usb cable out of the cherry coiled cable. The only reason why I'm not is that the one end needs to be directly soldered into the PCB. I was contemplating as to whether or not it would be possible to solder a port on the PCB but the case would need modified in order for the mini usb port to fit which I definitely do not want to do to the case.

Oh good to know bro

[ninjadoc]

Agreed, I'm not so sure how many have nixdorfs but I've seen plenty of 360c boards with OG dyesubs. I figured I could mix it up a little bit and add some red cyrillics as well. I do have the standard beige Cherry Coiled PS/2 cable coming but I will be cutting off both ends and converting it to USB to "modernize" the board slightly. The other benefit to GON's A356 controller is that I can remap the layout if I so desire.

This is what I want to see! You are smart steezus!

Haha thank you very much for the compliments. I have all the parts ordered now in order to do the modifications to the cable. I've been doing my research so I don't fry the board up. I do know that the order of connection for a PS/2 and USB is slightly varied from each other. I believe for USB I will need to solder the wires to the board as VCC, Data-, Data+, and then Ground.

I don't know what the hell did you say but I have to say that you are a genius

The cherry coiled cable is really high quality cable. Can you make a custom mini use to sub cable out of the cherry cable?

I believe it can be done to make a mini usb to usb cable out of the cherry coiled cable. The only reason why I'm not is that the one end needs to be directly soldered into the PCB. I was contemplating as to whether or not it would be possible to solder a port on the PCB but the case would need modified in order for the mini usb port to fit which I definitely do not want to do to the case.

SSince you know you don't want to modify the case I've thought about simply soldering wires on the PCB with a connector inside the case if there is room. Some of the OTD cases are tight though. Another option is to run the wires outside the case, leave a pigtail to plug in in or make an acrylic box like the with a connector like the 356n Mk2  .
Sticks out but dosn't change the case.

[Pdub]

Coming along nicely! 

[Steezus]

More

Agreed, I'm not so sure how many have nixdorfs but I've seen plenty of 360c boards with OG dyesubs. I figured I could mix it up a little bit and add some red cyrillics as well. I do have the standard beige Cherry Coiled PS/2 cable coming but I will be cutting off both ends and converting it to USB to "modernize" the board slightly. The other benefit to GON's A356 controller is that I can remap the layout if I so desire.

This is what I want to see! You are smart steezus!

Haha thank you very much for the compliments. I have all the parts ordered now in order to do the modifications to the cable. I've been doing my research so I don't fry the board up. I do know that the order of connection for a PS/2 and USB is slightly varied from each other. I believe for USB I will need to solder the wires to the board as VCC, Data-, Data+, and then Ground.

I don't know what the hell did you say but I have to say that you are a genius

The cherry coiled cable is really high quality cable. Can you make a custom mini use to sub cable out of the cherry cable?

I believe it can be done to make a mini usb to usb cable out of the cherry coiled cable. The only reason why I'm not is that the one end needs to be directly soldered into the PCB. I was contemplating as to whether or not it would be possible to solder a port on the PCB but the case would need modified in order for the mini usb port to fit which I definitely do not want to do to the case.

SSince you know you don't want to modify the case I've thought about simply soldering wires on the PCB with a connector inside the case if there is room. Some of the OTD cases are tight though. Another option is to run the wires outside the case, leave a pigtail to plug in in or make an acrylic box like the with a connector like the 356n Mk2 

Show Image

.
Sticks out but dosn't change the case.

Thanks for the info ninjadoc! Come to think of it, a pigtail type connection may not be so bad. I'm thinking let it hang out of the case 2-3 inches and then plug the cherry coiled cable into that. I bought some heat shrink and gold plated USB connectors to do the cable mod. I may go and buy a male and female mini usb connections for the pigtail mod. :thumb:

On a side note about the discussion with filphil earlier. I do think polishing the brass weight, painting the engravings black, and then clear coating is neat idea. However, the brass weight is sandblasted and not polished so it may be a little trickier.

Coming along nicely!  :cool:

Thanks Pdub, I hope to upload some more progress pics soon! ;)

[Photekq]

I've seen plenty of 360c boards with OG dyesubs

Hmm.. I wonder why.. Could it be that they're the best? Gateron is no substitute for the best..

[Steezus]

I've seen plenty of 360c boards with OG dyesubs

Hmm.. I wonder why.. Could it be that they're the best? Gateron is no substitute for the best..

I'll most likely get a set, just have money to spend money elsewhere to even get the board up and running. I'd like to get an og cherry cyrillic or gmk cyrillic sets one of these times but they seem much harder to find.

[mashby]

Nixdorfs are really hard to come by. I put them in my Duck Viper and love them. If you don't mind me asked, where did you source them?

[Steezus]

Nixdorfs are really hard to come by. I put them in my Duck Viper and love them. If you don't mind me asked, where did you source them?

I had a friend find one in Germany and proxy it for me. It took me awhile to finally find one of the boards.

[mashby]

Nixdorfs are really hard to come by. I put them in my Duck Viper and love them. If you don't mind me asked, where did you source them?

I had a friend find one in Germany and proxy it for me. It took me awhile to finally find one of the boards.

That's where mine came from as well. It's good to have friends. Congrats! 

[bocahgundul]

Nixdorfs are really hard to come by. I put them in my Duck Viper and love them. If you don't mind me asked, where did you source them?

I had a friend find one in Germany and proxy it for me. It took me awhile to finally find one of the boards.

That's where mine came from as well. It's good to have friends. Congrats! 

And am jealous.
Help me get one please hehe

Post some pic of the nixdorf bro!

[mashby]

Nixdorfs are really hard to come by. I put them in my Duck Viper and love them. If you don't mind me asked, where did you source them?

I had a friend find one in Germany and proxy it for me. It took me awhile to finally find one of the boards.

That's where mine came from as well. It's good to have friends. Congrats! 

And am jealous.
Help me get one please hehe

Post some pic of the nixdorf bro!

I don't want to derail Steezus's build log (any more than I already have), but you can see a shot of the switches here and the completed board here. I plan to do a build log soon.

As you were. 

[Steezus]

Nixdorfs are really hard to come by. I put them in my Duck Viper and love them. If you don't mind me asked, where did you source them?

I had a friend find one in Germany and proxy it for me. It took me awhile to finally find one of the boards.

That's where mine came from as well. It's good to have friends. Congrats! 

And am jealous.
Help me get one please hehe

Post some pic of the nixdorf bro!

I don't want to derail Steezus's build log (any more than I already have), but you can see a shot of the switches here and the completed board here. I plan to do a build log soon.

As you were. 

Haha no worries at all mashby! Thank you very much for the links, I'm looking forward to receiving the switches in the mail.