[SSS] SIP Socket Science!So SIP sockets right? Well I have been wanting to try these out for quite sometime and now finally have had the chance to do so. So I would like to share my findings. This thread won't be a comprehensive one just for SIP sockets but rather their compatibility with different switch types and whatnot.
To start off with these are SIP sockets:
They have been individually removed from these:
They are used for being able to hot swap LEDs without needing to de-solder every single time and risk lifting a pad.
Pretty self explanatory right? Well in theory, yes. But in practice it is a bit of a different story. There just isn't much info out there about it so I decided to put on my science hat (It's a giant red dice hat) and get to work.
The main issue I have had is with compatibility with certain switch types, more specifically the top housings. You will see that the SIP sockets interfere with the top housing in the following switches not allowing them to close completely. You may think that is not that big of a deal but it does make plate mounting a bit difficult because if the switch does not close completely it does not fit right in the plate and requires more force than usual to insert and remove. Not to mention the one of the tabs that is used to hold it in the plate can't engage correctly. The following switch types were used.
- Gateron Blue milk top from Massdrop
- Gateron Blue transparent top from Massdrop
- Cherry MX Blue harvested from a Poker II
First up is the Gateron Blue milk top:
As you can see the top housing is not flush with the bottom like it should be.
From the bottom you can actually see that the two clips in the front are not able to completely close.
Here is a photo of the top housing and circled in red is the problem area.
Next up is the Cherry offering. A Cherry MX Blue harvested from my Poker II:
Here is the top from a bottom view and as you can see the design is different, but will it work with SIP sockets?
From the bottom you can see that one of the clips will not shut, so it is a bit better, but still does not solve the problem.
So I began to think outside the box a bit so I tried to modify the milky Gateron switch top and this is what I ended up with (excuse the dirty switch top and rough filing):
Yes, they do look a bit crooked but once soldered into the board that won't be an issue. Because they look that way that means they can freely move right now and that the housing is not interfering any more! Score.
Here is the bottom view:
Sure enough all the clips are closed and the switch fits in a plate perfectly.
But what if you don't want to murder all those switch tops? Well I have a solution for that too!
The Gateron with transparent/clear top. Acquired from Massdrop:
It looks like the LEDs won't fit but I assure you they do, just as above the SIP sockets are able to freely move in the housing.
Here is a bottom view showing all clips are closed as they should be:
Here is how they are able to work so well:
All that plastic that was in the way is not there and instead it is just a clean cutout allowing the SIP sockets to be placed in the housing without interfering with it closing.
TL;DR: If you want to use SIP sockets either get Gateron Transparent tops or get ready to do some (de)filing of switches. There may be others that work but these are the only ones I had to test.
Hope this helps some of you guys out with using SIP sockets!
If you have more to add please do, I really want this information to be out there for other awesome Geekhackers and keyboard lovers alike to be able to profit from. At the same time if I have stated something incorrect please call me on it. This is my first post like this.
