In most cases it's not worth the bother. There's a reason they use the materials they do in PCB making (glass fibre reinforced epoxy). It has good thermal and mechanical properties, so tracks don't lift easily, it's tough and you can drill through it easily for through-mount components.
If you apply copper traces to glass you've got more likelihood for track lift (adhesive coming loose and differential thermal expansion causing tracks to ripple / break) and you can't mount drill the holes easily for mounting MX switches, etc.
With acrylic you'll melt the acrylic when soldering (which causes lots of problems, including nasty gases), although it could be done for a one-off board if you're willing to put all the effort in and take enough precautions, although preventing a 1.6mm acrylic sheet from warping during soldering could be tough.
My advice would be hand wiring and plate mounting if you're going for a complete transparent look. You can use point-to-point wiring techniques to get that old-school tube amp look if you work neatly, with nicely hand-bent wiring:
It can also give a nice 3D look to the wiring. Another interesting option, but it makes it impossible to change / update / repair:
Mod Edit: Added img tags to that beautiful second image.
