Author Topic: Crystal RS68 build - clear case, clear switch, clear stabilizer, clear LED  (Read 3873 times)

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Offline ntw

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Everything laid out before soldering

Parts:
- RS68 kit from 怡科外设
- Lipless Clear acrylic case w/ silver plate and silver feet
- Gateron Clear (linear) sring
- 90g spring on Spacebar
- Lubed w/ 1:1 mixture of silicone grease + Victorinox oil
- Clear stabilizers w/ 1.2mm foam tape and silicone grease
- Clear white 2*3*4mm LEDs
- keyboard layout


the switches were lubed 2 months ago... procrastination's a *****. finally decided to get this started and done with




Saw these clear stabilizers on taobao and decided to test it out. as expected they are quite rattly, I've shared this video before but here you go again

I used a piece of 1.2mm-thick foam tape underneath the stabilizers and lubed with thick silicone grease. It reduces the rattle significantly and keep the stabilizers in place.






The LED on the top-right switch refused to light up, not sure if the missing resistor on R131 position caused this.
I soldered a resistor on R131 and fly-wire to the next LED pads then the LED lit up with half the brightness.







« Last Edit: Fri, 29 July 2016, 10:08:25 by ntw »
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Offline infiniti

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Show Image

Saw these clear stabilizers on taobao and decided to test it out. as expected they are quite rattly, I've shared this video before but here you go again

I used a piece of 1.2mm-thick foam tape underneath the stabilizers and lubed with thick silicone grease. It reduces the rattle significantly and keep the stabilizers in place.

Thanks for sharing your build! :thumb:

BTW, did lubing the stabilizers fix the "sticking" and allow them to drop down on their on weight?

Offline suicidal_orange

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Looks great naked but a 'clothed' pic would be good :))

Shame about the misssing resistor though, I see unused split backspace and left shift options so you could steal one from one of them to replace it?
                               
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Offline ntw

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Show Image

Saw these clear stabilizers on taobao and decided to test it out. as expected they are quite rattly, I've shared this video before but here you go again

I used a piece of 1.2mm-thick foam tape underneath the stabilizers and lubed with thick silicone grease. It reduces the rattle significantly and keep the stabilizers in place.

Thanks for sharing your build! :thumb:

BTW, did lubing the stabilizers fix the "sticking" and allow them to drop down on their on weight?

thanks for the kind words. if the wire is inserted then it falls nicely, thought there are still some light rattle
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Offline ntw

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Looks great naked but a 'clothed' pic would be good :))

Shame about the misssing resistor though, I see unused split backspace and left shift options so you could steal one from one of them to replace it?
now that everything is working, well kinda... I'm too lazy to do anything else but just enjoy the pure bliss of linear switches
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Offline juahenza

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Offline ntw

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gib me
bringing it out for you to test tomorrow. please don't be disappointed. :thumb:
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Offline juahenza

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bringing it out for you to test tomorrow. please don't be disappointed. :thumb:

 :eek: see u  :thumb:
456GT | TGR Jane CE | Dolphin v2 | Whale | 360c | LZ FE | LZ IRON | TX-CP | Varmilo VA87M | HHKB P2 | IBM SSK P.1397681| IBM Industrial SSK P.1395682 | VE.A | Realforce 87u | Datamancer Streamline TKL | Datamancer Mechinist TKL | TANK v1 | RAMA M-4 | Realforce 108UW-HIPRO

Offline ntw

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adding in pictures of the RS68 with its party dress on...





was originally using the JTK purple on white but decided against it
i) I do not have enough purple artisans to go with JTK.
ii) JTK are stuck with the 2*3*4 LEDs I used.
iii) The Cherry doubleshot is a perfect match with my first brocap -- Mastermind Classic Reaper!!!
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Offline ntw

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so..... I found that the lucky dip Reaper Classic doesn't sit well on the switch and hit up bro and he gave the idea to shave my LEDs.









one thing led to another.. shaved all 2*3*4 LEDs after 2 hours of back pain and sore thumb


« Last Edit: Mon, 01 August 2016, 12:26:09 by ntw »
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Offline AMongoose

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Re: Crystal RS68 build - clear case, clear switch, clear stabilizer, clear LED
« Reply #10 on: Tue, 30 August 2016, 08:26:27 »
Why did you shave all the leds?

Are they still functional? How is the light? I don't even know what to ask :eek:

Offline ntw

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Re: Crystal RS68 build - clear case, clear switch, clear stabilizer, clear LED
« Reply #11 on: Tue, 30 August 2016, 10:52:46 »
Why did you shave all the leds?

Are they still functional? How is the light? I don't even know what to ask :eek:

how should I put this...... 2*3*4 LEDs are known to have compatibility issues with thicker caps, or at least my JTK Purple on White and Cherry OG doubleshots; weirdly though it doesn't affect the enjoyPBT thick dye-sub set. The LED juts out off of the Cherry switch recess and causes the keycaps to get stuck or prevent it from being fully pressed, affecting the typing feel.



By shaving the LEDs at ~30deg angle, the LED won't jut out of the switch recess. Also, you can see that the cathode/anode elements remain intact so they still function perfectly.





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Offline AMongoose

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Re: Crystal RS68 build - clear case, clear switch, clear stabilizer, clear LED
« Reply #12 on: Tue, 30 August 2016, 11:11:31 »
That's pretty neat, thank you for the photos I had never seen people doing this before.

Offline ntw

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Re: Crystal RS68 build - clear case, clear switch, clear stabilizer, clear LED
« Reply #13 on: Tue, 30 August 2016, 13:14:16 »
That's pretty neat, thank you for the photos I had never seen people doing this before.

This is an exhaustive mod, took me a few hours. I'm sure most people would prefer to just swap out the LEDs with 1.8mm or just go LED-less.
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