Satan GH60 PCB Issues?

[harjoat]

Hi guys, need a little bit of help here. I've had the PCB for a while but I've been waiting for all of the other parts to get here. All of the switches on my board are fine and work but I've got 2 major issues. There doesn't seem to be any sort of function modifier layer i.e I have no way of pressing F1-F12. And the second more irritating issue is that the LEDs don't seem to work at all and as there is no function key I have no clue if there is some sort of key combination that allows me to turn it on/off. I know I'm not doing anything wrong regarding the LED installation etc and I know that they work but they don't seem to turn on while in the PCB. If anyone has any ideas or knows anything about the board some help would be much appreciated. I've included some images just so its easier to tell exactly which one I have, I'd take pictures of the other side but that's hard to do since I've already soldered everything.

Link to the one that i bought: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272032784852?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT



Again, any help would be appreciated.

 

[kasakka]

You need to flash a firmware. Download Easy AVR and use that to build a layout and flash a firmware.

[harjoat]

You need to flash a firmware. Download Easy AVR and use that to build a layout and flash a firmware.

Thanks for that, I've ran into an issue where it says "AtLibUsbDfu.dll not found" when I click on the USB icon. When I check the program file it is there. I've searched but only seen people complaining about the same thing and nobody seeming to know the solution.

[jdcarpe]

You need to flash a firmware. Download Easy AVR and use that to build a layout and flash a firmware.

Thanks for that, I've ran into an issue where it says "AtLibUsbDfu.dll not found" when I click on the USB icon. When I check the program file it is there. I've searched but only seen people complaining about the same thing and nobody seeming to know the solution.

It's a driver issue. See Step 10a of my Programming Guide on http://jd45.info, you go about it the same way.

[harjoat]

You need to flash a firmware. Download Easy AVR and use that to build a layout and flash a firmware.

Thanks for that, I've ran into an issue where it says "AtLibUsbDfu.dll not found" when I click on the USB icon. When I check the program file it is there. I've searched but only seen people complaining about the same thing and nobody seeming to know the solution.

It's a driver issue. See Step 10a of my Programming Guide on http://jd45.info, you go about it the same way.

Thanks for that link. One issue that I'm having is that Windows keeps saying that it has determined the one installed is the best and doesn't allow me to use the one in the folder.

[jdcarpe]

You need to flash a firmware. Download Easy AVR and use that to build a layout and flash a firmware.

Thanks for that, I've ran into an issue where it says "AtLibUsbDfu.dll not found" when I click on the USB icon. When I check the program file it is there. I've searched but only seen people complaining about the same thing and nobody seeming to know the solution.

It's a driver issue. See Step 10a of my Programming Guide on http://jd45.info, you go about it the same way.

Thanks for that link. One issue that I'm having is that Windows keeps saying that it has determined the one installed is the best and doesn't allow me to use the one in the folder.

(Attachment Link)

You should be in bootloader mode to install the correct driver. It should be called ATMEGA32U4DFU or similar. Go to update driver, and tell it to browse your computer. Click Browse... and point it to the C:\Program Files (x86)\Atmel\Flip 3.4.7\usb folder. Let it install the driver, and try again with Flip.

[harjoat]

You need to flash a firmware. Download Easy AVR and use that to build a layout and flash a firmware.

Thanks for that, I've ran into an issue where it says "AtLibUsbDfu.dll not found" when I click on the USB icon. When I check the program file it is there. I've searched but only seen people complaining about the same thing and nobody seeming to know the solution.

It's a driver issue. See Step 10a of my Programming Guide on http://jd45.info, you go about it the same way.

Thanks for that link. One issue that I'm having is that Windows keeps saying that it has determined the one installed is the best and doesn't allow me to use the one in the folder.

(Attachment Link)

You should be in bootloader mode to install the correct driver. It should be called ATMEGA32U4DFU or similar. Go to update driver, and tell it to browse your computer. Click Browse... and point it to the C:\Program Files (x86)\Atmel\Flip 3.4.7\usb folder. Let it install the driver, and try again with Flip.

Awesome! Thank you so much for the help. This was my first ever build and I'm a total newbie to all of this. I really do appreciate the help.

[jdcarpe]

Awesome! Thank you so much for the help. This was my first ever build and I'm a total newbie to all of this. I really do appreciate the help.

No problem at all. Glad I could help.

[Moistgun]

You need to flash a firmware. Download Easy AVR and use that to build a layout and flash a firmware.

Thanks for that, I've ran into an issue where it says "AtLibUsbDfu.dll not found" when I click on the USB icon. When I check the program file it is there. I've searched but only seen people complaining about the same thing and nobody seeming to know the solution.

It's a driver issue. See Step 10a of my Programming Guide on http://jd45.info, you go about it the same way.

Thanks for that link. One issue that I'm having is that Windows keeps saying that it has determined the one installed is the best and doesn't allow me to use the one in the folder.

(Attachment Link)

You should be in bootloader mode to install the correct driver. It should be called ATMEGA32U4DFU or similar. Go to update driver, and tell it to browse your computer. Click Browse... and point it to the C:\Program Files (x86)\Atmel\Flip 3.4.7\usb folder. Let it install the driver, and try again with Flip.

Awesome! Thank you so much for the help. This was my first ever build and I'm a total newbie to all of this. I really do appreciate the help.

When it comes to time to build your firmware with EasyAVR, you have to set up your FN layers, and this is where you will set you F1-F11 keys.  May I recommend setting your arrow keys to [ ; / '
You also want to set up what buttons will adjust backlighting in your fn layer.
theres a picker tool in the options of the program to show you all choices.

[harjoat]

You need to flash a firmware. Download Easy AVR and use that to build a layout and flash a firmware.

Thanks for that, I've ran into an issue where it says "AtLibUsbDfu.dll not found" when I click on the USB icon. When I check the program file it is there. I've searched but only seen people complaining about the same thing and nobody seeming to know the solution.

It's a driver issue. See Step 10a of my Programming Guide on http://jd45.info, you go about it the same way.

Thanks for that link. One issue that I'm having is that Windows keeps saying that it has determined the one installed is the best and doesn't allow me to use the one in the folder.

(Attachment Link)

You should be in bootloader mode to install the correct driver. It should be called ATMEGA32U4DFU or similar. Go to update driver, and tell it to browse your computer. Click Browse... and point it to the C:\Program Files (x86)\Atmel\Flip 3.4.7\usb folder. Let it install the driver, and try again with Flip.

Awesome! Thank you so much for the help. This was my first ever build and I'm a total newbie to all of this. I really do appreciate the help.

When it comes to time to build your firmware with EasyAVR, you have to set up your FN layers, and this is where you will set you F1-F11 keys.  May I recommend setting your arrow keys to [ ; / '
You also want to set up what buttons will adjust backlighting in your fn layer.
theres a picker tool in the options of the program to show you all choices.

Thanks for that, I actually made the function layer F1-F12 and haven't configured the arrow keys yet. I'll probably go with a T. L as up, / as right, m as left and . as down. Just seems to be the most comfortable one for me.

[kasakka]

Also try the Pok3r way, setting the right hand side Shift, Ctrl, Win and Menu buttons as arrow keys. I use this permanently on my GH60 as I never use those keys for their original functions. This way I don't have to use Fn to get arrow keys even though I have those mapped as FN+IJKL too. I also change Caps lock with Ctrl and Ctrl with Fn and move Backspace down one row. I soldered two extra switches in place of the Backspace key and also have one extra Fn button next to the right Shift since the GH60 supports these extra switches.

[harjoat]

Also try the Pok3r way, setting the right hand side Shift, Ctrl, Win and Menu buttons as arrow keys. I use this permanently on my GH60 as I never use those keys for their original functions. This way I don't have to use Fn to get arrow keys even though I have those mapped as FN+IJKL too. I also change Caps lock with Ctrl and Ctrl with Fn and move Backspace down one row. I soldered two extra switches in place of the Backspace key and also have one extra Fn button next to the right Shift since the GH60 supports these extra switches.

Thanks for the advice. I've managed to solve all my original problems but the "i" key on the board seems to be dead now. The LED works and the switch isn't faulty. It seems to be an issue with the PCB but I can't see any physical sings of damage. The issue only happened after I finished installing the LEDs and I'm sure I didn't damage anything while doing so. It would be horrible if I can't get the first keyboard I made working again

[kasakka]

Also try the Pok3r way, setting the right hand side Shift, Ctrl, Win and Menu buttons as arrow keys. I use this permanently on my GH60 as I never use those keys for their original functions. This way I don't have to use Fn to get arrow keys even though I have those mapped as FN+IJKL too. I also change Caps lock with Ctrl and Ctrl with Fn and move Backspace down one row. I soldered two extra switches in place of the Backspace key and also have one extra Fn button next to the right Shift since the GH60 supports these extra switches.

Thanks for the advice. I've managed to solve all my original problems but the "i" key on the board seems to be dead now. The LED works and the switch isn't faulty. It seems to be an issue with the PCB but I can't see any physical sings of damage. The issue only happened after I finished installing the LEDs and I'm sure I didn't damage anything while doing so. It would be horrible if I can't get the first keyboard I made working again

Desolder the switch and use a multimeter to check that the i key works. If you don't have one you could just connect the two holes with something like a paperclip to see if the connection actually works without a switch soldered in. If worst comes to worst you could use some of the extra switch connections to replace the key by running some wires from those to your switch. Then just program that key to act as the i key. This is actually what I did when I broke the Enter key because one of the connectors was only half a "ring" since a screw hole was right there. What I did was I soldered the switch to the ISO Enter connection instead with the afore-mentioned wire trick.

[harjoat]

Also try the Pok3r way, setting the right hand side Shift, Ctrl, Win and Menu buttons as arrow keys. I use this permanently on my GH60 as I never use those keys for their original functions. This way I don't have to use Fn to get arrow keys even though I have those mapped as FN+IJKL too. I also change Caps lock with Ctrl and Ctrl with Fn and move Backspace down one row. I soldered two extra switches in place of the Backspace key and also have one extra Fn button next to the right Shift since the GH60 supports these extra switches.

Thanks for the advice. I've managed to solve all my original problems but the "i" key on the board seems to be dead now. The LED works and the switch isn't faulty. It seems to be an issue with the PCB but I can't see any physical sings of damage. The issue only happened after I finished installing the LEDs and I'm sure I didn't damage anything while doing so. It would be horrible if I can't get the first keyboard I made working again

Desolder the switch and use a multimeter to check that the i key works. If you don't have one you could just connect the two holes with something like a paperclip to see if the connection actually works without a switch soldered in. If worst comes to worst you could use some of the extra switch connections to replace the key by running some wires from those to your switch. Then just program that key to act as the i key. This is actually what I did when I broke the Enter key because one of the connectors was only half a "ring" since a screw hole was right there. What I did was I soldered the switch to the ISO Enter connection instead with the afore-mentioned wire trick.

 I thought I may have to do something like that. I've already tested it and made sure it didn't work. Do you know of any guides on how to do this correctly and if not could you post some pictures so I can have a look at it.

[kasakka]

It's literally as simple as running two wires from another switch's connectors on the PCB to your switch.

[harjoat]

It's literally as simple as running two wires from another switch's connectors on the PCB to your switch.

Ah if that's all I guess I can do it 😂