Soldering Advice Needed

[pixelpusher]

Okay, so I started adding LEDs to my Pok3r. This is my first time to ever desolder anything and I kinda screwed up at first.  Towards the end of the project I realized i needed to turn up the temp on my iron.  Also when I couldn't get all of the solder out of a hole, at first I was trying to jam the iron and wick down in there.  It was only later that I realized it was much more effective to just add some solder and then re-attempt to get it all at once.  So, here's my question.  The PCB has the metal contacts around the holes for the LEDs and I think I've damaged a few.  Is that a thing, or is there just a bad solder joint?  I looks like on at least one of them there is no metal ring around the hole anymore (from my stupid attempt to jam the iron in to remove the sunken solder).

I actually managed to work around one of them by creating a jumper from the leds beside it to my dead led hole, lol.

[suicidal_orange]

What you're describing are known as 'lifted pads' and they're a common problem.

You've got the right idea about fixing them too - jumpers to either the resistor or another LED, or if the trace is visible and there's space around it you can scrape the mask off and solder directly to it.

If you get stuck post a pic with the light angled so you can see the traces - we will get it glowing again

[pixelpusher]

What you're describing are known as 'lifted pads' and they're a common problem.

You've got the right idea about fixing them too - jumpers to either the resistor or another LED, or if the trace is visible and there's space around it you can scrape the mask off and solder directly to it.

If you get stuck post a pic with the light angled so you can see the traces - we will get it glowing again

Thanks for the info!

[jenggo]

led on pok3r? don't forget to reverse the led polarity.
if you lifted the pad, try my trick:
you have to connect the pad from the other side of the hole, i did this before.
you can add a piece of cable to connect the pad from the other side of the hole.

[Spopepro]

 I sometimes feel like a broken record on GH, but if you're desoldering make like easy and get some rosin flux. The reason adding more solder works is because you're adding a bit of flux from the fresh solder... the extra lead and tin don't help. So why not just add the flux? Just make sure it is rosin flux--there are products called "soldering flux" that are acid based and are designed for brazing metal pipes with a torch. Don't use that stuff.

[pixelpusher]

I sometimes feel like a broken record on GH, but if you're desoldering make like easy and get some rosin flux. The reason adding more solder works is because you're adding a bit of flux from the fresh solder... the extra lead and tin don't help. So why not just add the flux? Just make sure it is rosin flux--there are products called "soldering flux" that are acid based and are designed for brazing metal pipes with a torch. Don't use that stuff.

I'll pick some up. Thanks for the tip.  I tried to search for threads on GH to avoid the broken record, srry

led on pok3r? don't forget to reverse the led polarity.
if you lifted the pad, try my trick:
you have to connect the pad from the other side of the hole, i did this before.
you can add a piece of cable to connect the pad from the other side of the hole.

Yep, I got the reversed polarity right.  Now, for the trick you mentioned... I'm guessing this works b/c the pok3r has a dual layer PCB, so the pad that I "lifted" is duplicated on the reverse side, right?  what kind of cable did you use and how did you run it?  Like through the hole or around the board or what?

[pixelpusher]

Also, I've soldered a few leds onto other boards but I was having issues with this one.  Again, a soldering novice so I'm not sure what the problem is but here is what happens:

I touch the tip to the pad and the LED post at the same time, and add solder from the opposite side.  This seemed to work fine for another project I was doing.  But on this board, nothing happens. Eventually (after what seems like too long) the solder flows but ends up going to my tip and just lifting up the led instead of going to the pad.  What's going on?

I'm using a Hakko 888.  I was set at 600 but I feel like 700 works better for this board.  I'm using 60/40 rosin core solder.  The tip of the iron is clean.  Ideas?

[Moistgun]

Also, I've soldered a few leds onto other boards but I was having issues with this one.  Again, a soldering novice so I'm not sure what the problem is but here is what happens:

I touch the tip to the pad and the LED post at the same time, and add solder from the opposite side.  This seemed to work fine for another project I was doing.  But on this board, nothing happens. Eventually (after what seems like too long) the solder flows but ends up going to my tip and just lifting up the led instead of going to the pad.  What's going on?

I'm using a Hakko 888.  I was set at 600 but I feel like 700 works better for this board.  I'm using 60/40 rosin core solder.  The tip of the iron is clean.  Ideas?

What youre saying is the solder is not going into the joint, and instead insists on sticking to the iron?

[Fictiouz]

Also, I've soldered a few leds onto other boards but I was having issues with this one.  Again, a soldering novice so I'm not sure what the problem is but here is what happens:

I touch the tip to the pad and the LED post at the same time, and add solder from the opposite side.  This seemed to work fine for another project I was doing.  But on this board, nothing happens. Eventually (after what seems like too long) the solder flows but ends up going to my tip and just lifting up the led instead of going to the pad.  What's going on?

I'm using a Hakko 888.  I was set at 600 but I feel like 700 works better for this board.  I'm using 60/40 rosin core solder.  The tip of the iron is clean.  Ideas?

I would recommend tinning the tip just to make sure. 600-650 is usually a safe bet for leaded solder; 700 is usually needed for lead-free solder. If the solder is having problems flowing it may be due to the quality of the solder not just your iron. You shouldn't have to, but try touching the solder to the tip of the iron to get it to start flowing then make contact with the pad. That should not be a necessary step however. Low quality solder can sometimes require coaching. I tend to stick with 63/37 when soldering I'm using a $70CAD Iron.

Also here is a link to promote tip maintenance:
www.newark.com/pdfs/techarticles/plato/SolderingIronTipsCare.pdf
Please practice tip maintenance. It will increase the longevity of your soldering tips by 10 fold.

[pixelpusher]

Also, I've soldered a few leds onto other boards but I was having issues with this one.  Again, a soldering novice so I'm not sure what the problem is but here is what happens:

I touch the tip to the pad and the LED post at the same time, and add solder from the opposite side.  This seemed to work fine for another project I was doing.  But on this board, nothing happens. Eventually (after what seems like too long) the solder flows but ends up going to my tip and just lifting up the led instead of going to the pad.  What's going on?

I'm using a Hakko 888.  I was set at 600 but I feel like 700 works better for this board.  I'm using 60/40 rosin core solder.  The tip of the iron is clean.  Ideas?

What youre saying is the solder is not going into the joint, and instead insists on sticking to the iron?

Yes, that's exactly it.  It either wants to stick to the iron or hover just above the joint on the LED post.  Maybe the pad is in such a bad state that there isn't enough metal for it to flow to?  I didn't have any issues on a previous board, but these desoldered joints just don't solder back very easily.  The holes look normal except the extra residue from the solder wick.

[pixelpusher]

Also, I've soldered a few leds onto other boards but I was having issues with this one.  Again, a soldering novice so I'm not sure what the problem is but here is what happens:

I touch the tip to the pad and the LED post at the same time, and add solder from the opposite side.  This seemed to work fine for another project I was doing.  But on this board, nothing happens. Eventually (after what seems like too long) the solder flows but ends up going to my tip and just lifting up the led instead of going to the pad.  What's going on?

I'm using a Hakko 888.  I was set at 600 but I feel like 700 works better for this board.  I'm using 60/40 rosin core solder.  The tip of the iron is clean.  Ideas?

I would recommend tinning the tip just to make sure. 600-650 is usually a safe bet for leaded solder; 700 is usually needed for lead-free solder. If the solder is having problems flowing it may be due to the quality of the solder not just your iron. You shouldn't have to, but try touching the solder to the tip of the iron to get it to start flowing then make contact with the pad. That should not be a necessary step however. Low quality solder can sometimes require coaching. I tend to stick with 63/37 when soldering I'm using a $70CAD Iron.

Also here is a link to promote tip maintenance:
www.newark.com/pdfs/techarticles/plato/SolderingIronTipsCare.pdf
Please practice tip maintenance. It will increase the longevity of your soldering tips by 10 fold.

So, a question about tinning.  I've been putting solder on the tip fairly often, but then I don't know what to do with it, and I've been wiping it off on the sponge and the steel wool cleaner thing (sorry, i must sound like an idiot, im sure it has a better name).  What do I do with the blob of solder on the iron after I've touched the solder to the tip? Am I going about the tinning process wrong?

[Moistgun]

Also, I've soldered a few leds onto other boards but I was having issues with this one.  Again, a soldering novice so I'm not sure what the problem is but here is what happens:

I touch the tip to the pad and the LED post at the same time, and add solder from the opposite side.  This seemed to work fine for another project I was doing.  But on this board, nothing happens. Eventually (after what seems like too long) the solder flows but ends up going to my tip and just lifting up the led instead of going to the pad.  What's going on?

I'm using a Hakko 888.  I was set at 600 but I feel like 700 works better for this board.  I'm using 60/40 rosin core solder.  The tip of the iron is clean.  Ideas?

I would recommend tinning the tip just to make sure. 600-650 is usually a safe bet for leaded solder; 700 is usually needed for lead-free solder. If the solder is having problems flowing it may be due to the quality of the solder not just your iron. You shouldn't have to, but try touching the solder to the tip of the iron to get it to start flowing then make contact with the pad. That should not be a necessary step however. Low quality solder can sometimes require coaching. I tend to stick with 63/37 when soldering I'm using a $70CAD Iron.

Also here is a link to promote tip maintenance:
www.newark.com/pdfs/techarticles/plato/SolderingIronTipsCare.pdf
Please practice tip maintenance. It will increase the longevity of your soldering tips by 10 fold.

So, a question about tinning.  I've been putting solder on the tip fairly often, but then I don't know what to do with it, and I've been wiping it off on the sponge and the steel wool cleaner thing (sorry, i must sound like an idiot, im sure it has a better name).  What do I do with the blob of solder on the iron after I've touched the solder to the tip? Am I going about the tinning process wrong?

No, you are doing it correctly. You want to tin the tip before you start soldering, and you want to wipe off the excess on the sponge. I think the brass and steel wool is too abrasive.

You also want to make sure you are tinning before you are finished so the soldering iron tip has some solder to prevent it from oxodizing.

lastly you want to have your soldering iron on only if you are actually using it, dont leave it on and sitting for a half hour while you are working on another project or issue.

Try using some flux, that might help your solder flow alittle better.

what solder is it, can you link it?

Also, read the thing that Fictiouz linked, you should learn all of those things, and try to make sure you follow what it details.

[Moistgun]

Also, I've soldered a few leds onto other boards but I was having issues with this one.  Again, a soldering novice so I'm not sure what the problem is but here is what happens:

I touch the tip to the pad and the LED post at the same time, and add solder from the opposite side.  This seemed to work fine for another project I was doing.  But on this board, nothing happens. Eventually (after what seems like too long) the solder flows but ends up going to my tip and just lifting up the led instead of going to the pad.  What's going on?

I'm using a Hakko 888.  I was set at 600 but I feel like 700 works better for this board.  I'm using 60/40 rosin core solder.  The tip of the iron is clean.  Ideas?

I would recommend tinning the tip just to make sure. 600-650 is usually a safe bet for leaded solder; 700 is usually needed for lead-free solder. If the solder is having problems flowing it may be due to the quality of the solder not just your iron. You shouldn't have to, but try touching the solder to the tip of the iron to get it to start flowing then make contact with the pad. That should not be a necessary step however. Low quality solder can sometimes require coaching. I tend to stick with 63/37 when soldering I'm using a $70CAD Iron.

Also here is a link to promote tip maintenance:
www.newark.com/pdfs/techarticles/plato/SolderingIronTipsCare.pdf
Please practice tip maintenance. It will increase the longevity of your soldering tips by 10 fold.

Also, do you use a nicer iron at home than you do for work???    ) ) ) ) )

[pixelpusher]

The solder I'm using.  It worked great on my other project, but flowing into these desoldered holes is problematic
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EDLR8TS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is what I'm using for a wick
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0195V48V6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm wondering if the prefilled holes on the pok3r use lead-free solder and that's why I was needed a higher temp for desoldering.  Anyway, I'm just not sure it it's my fault and I've damaged the pads somehow (although they look okay) or if there is something in the old solder or wick residue causing my problems.

[Fictiouz]

Also, I've soldered a few leds onto other boards but I was having issues with this one.  Again, a soldering novice so I'm not sure what the problem is but here is what happens:

I touch the tip to the pad and the LED post at the same time, and add solder from the opposite side.  This seemed to work fine for another project I was doing.  But on this board, nothing happens. Eventually (after what seems like too long) the solder flows but ends up going to my tip and just lifting up the led instead of going to the pad.  What's going on?

I'm using a Hakko 888.  I was set at 600 but I feel like 700 works better for this board.  I'm using 60/40 rosin core solder.  The tip of the iron is clean.  Ideas?

I would recommend tinning the tip just to make sure. 600-650 is usually a safe bet for leaded solder; 700 is usually needed for lead-free solder. If the solder is having problems flowing it may be due to the quality of the solder not just your iron. You shouldn't have to, but try touching the solder to the tip of the iron to get it to start flowing then make contact with the pad. That should not be a necessary step however. Low quality solder can sometimes require coaching. I tend to stick with 63/37 when soldering I'm using a $70CAD Iron.

Also here is a link to promote tip maintenance:
www.newark.com/pdfs/techarticles/plato/SolderingIronTipsCare.pdf
Please practice tip maintenance. It will increase the longevity of your soldering tips by 10 fold.

Also, do you use a nicer iron at home than you do for work???    ) ) ) ) )

The opposite actually my iron at work is much nicer. We have a fully equipped rework station with everything you could imagine. If you take care of your equipment and know how to use it the brand doesn't really matter.