Newbie first project: jd40

[leehwtsohg]

I want to build my first keyboard! I'd like to make a nice portable keyboard - for now USB... maybe later I'll try BT or simple wireless.
I ordered a jd40, with brown switches. I'll probably use it on linux/windows/android on android tablets or maybe  the gpd win.
To make things extra hard, my main computer is a macbook, and if the keyboard is really good I might even use it with the macbook when docked at the office. (Where I'm currently using my IBM model F  )
For now, I haven't ordered or made a mountplate or a bottom plate. I'd like it to be as light and small as possible - can I get by without
a mount plate? How to make a thin and light bottom plate?
Next is keycaps. If I understand correctly, I could order them from WASD? They have a custom cherry 61 keycap set. So I can custom order
that? Or are there more efficient ways to get what I want?
I've been thinking about the design. I don't touch-type, which makes things a bit easier (or harder...).
I thought about the following design:

I'd probably use it mostly for text editing, web browsing, and coding (I often use emacs).
I moved all keys to the left, so that I get more of the standard punctuation keys on the right. I also decided to move curly and square brackets
further in (as opposed to on top of comma/dot or semicolon) so that when red is activated, all punctuations are available.
I thought to have 'Func' (red) locked if the key is just hit and released, and not locked if it is pressed.
Same for ESC and alt. (good for emacs... alt-x vs esc, x) but I'm not sure if it will work well. And, I don't remember if I need alt-esc for anything.
Any opinions or suggestions?

Thanks a lot!!

[leehwtsohg]

OK, the board and switches arrived! Browns are quite nice!
I'm trying to figure out if I want all keys identical with respect to row... Maybe all R1 or R2, or is it better to have different keys across the rows.

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk

[leehwtsohg]

Hmmm... not many replies. I wonder if I posted this to the wrong forum, or maybe I'm not formulating things correctly.

I reached the next stage! Keycaps are ready, PCB is here.


Now I need to solder etc. It is nice and lite for now, and I do want it to be easily portable.
Do I need to add a top plate? I'd prefer not to (save weight).
Can I just glue the switches that fall out more easily in. Or maybe all switches?
Or is that somehow a no-no? If yes, what glue should I use?
On the bottom I though to just put rubber pads, or a foam pad (I need to see how I can have that on and still have it
easily repairable).


Thanks! 

[SpAmRaY]

This is the proper subforum just no one has any feedback for you.

I'm on tapatalk and can't see your photos to know exactly which PCB you've got but gluing switches probably isn't the best solution for long term portable use with the original JD40 PCB it requires a plate.

If you have the newer version on the PCB with the extra holes for PCB mount switches they should stay in just fine without a plate and without glue.

As far as keycaps many people use DSA sets since all rows have a common profile and caps can be easily relocated.

Some group buys have has specific kits for the JD40 as well.

[leehwtsohg]

Thanks for the reply.
Here is a link for the latest version:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/kflbiyoxrvjaffs/New%20Doc%209.jpg?dl=0
I think I have the latest version of the pcb. At least the buttons sit quite solidly. Only one at the bottom left is loose and would have to be glued.
I wanted a custom print on the keys, so used WASD. Result is quite nice! Though not all keys are in right row.

[menuhin]

Did you order the custom-printed caps from WASD?

I've seen similar layouts with such leftmost Q, A, and Z arrangement. One from a super old keyboard, and the other from a GH member who started a few GB a few years ago.

I've always wanted to try JD40. The only thing that is holding me back is its limited case support. I always want a milled case, and the most available milled case for 40% is Planck's nicely anodized colorful aluminum case, which has the mini-B socket between the top-most 2nd and 3rd keys. There's the Quark (or Kwark recently) PCB that can fit in Planck's case, but the layout is less desirable than JD40.

40% keyboard PCBs should be provided with option of hot-swappable modification. They can be really good switch testers.

[leehwtsohg]

Did you order the custom-printed caps from WASD?

Yes. I ordered a full 105 keys keyboard to get all the keys I wanted.

I've always wanted to try JD40. The only thing that is holding me back is its limited case support. I always want a milled case, and the most available milled case for 40% is Planck's nicely anodized colorful aluminum case, which has the mini-B socket between the top-most 2nd and 3rd keys. There's the Quark (or Kwark recently) PCB that can fit in Planck's case, but the layout is less desirable than JD40.

40% keyboard PCBs should be provided with option of hot-swappable modification. They can be really good switch testers.

That's why I don't want to use a case 
Actually, I couldn't find any of the other boards available for sale - only pre-order.

[Sheepz]

Looking Great!

[leehwtsohg]

OK, I'm almost done! Well, almost in the sense that I'll never really be done...

Keyboard is flashed, and I'm typing on it now. It is really fun. I like the layout.
Space, enter, and tab at the bottom feels very intuitive.
I only had to glue in one switch, the others hold well on their own.
I haven't quite gotten used to the Z where the shift would be. But I hope that will come. I like the fact that I have all punctuations easily accessible.
I made the middle FN key on the bottom right into a FN+shift, so I can type the shifted number keys with just one additional button. Thus I type middle FN+e for @.

One modification I made is that blue FN+directional keys is mouse movement, and blue FN+',' '.' '/' button are the three mouse buttons. works quite well...
It would be cool if there was also a way to simulate mouse wheel... is there?
(edit: I should try TMK...)

I still haven't decided on what to do for the bottom. For now the keyboard just rests on a cardboard piece (I'll spare you and not post an image).
I think best would legs, maybe made of rubber, that are possibly foldable in the back but still protect the USB port.

I think the board would be better with the following mods:
1. micro usb instead of mini usb. I never carry a miniusb around... now I will.
2. move the usb port to the top side of the board!!! Does this have a reason?

3. Easy Bluetooth. But then it would also need a battery, and would get heavier anyway.

BTW: does anyone know of a nice flexible thin light mini-usb cable?