The Unicomp Ultra Classic 104 - CLICK INTENSIFIES

[IBMPCDOS5]

If you recall my post on Christmas, I basically bashed the BlackWidow because of it's many faults I find pretty dang annoying. I hunted that I would be ordering a Model M, and I did. It's not an IBM made M, a Lexmark made M, or even a Maxi Switch M. I went the cheaper route and got a Unicomp Model M. Thanks to all who encouraged me to finally get one of these.

Onto the review...


I was initially going to buy a Lexmark M but because of the cost and the lack of Amazon Prime, well, I decided to pass. I then decided to get this keyboard; the Unicomp. I got the Ultra-Classic, 104 key with two-tone keycaps. Why? Well, it is because I thought it looked very nice with the black case around it. Needless to say, I received this gem a day later. Thanks, Prime!

The Build Quality:

This keyboard is built very solidly. This weighs about four pounds and is quite heavy for a keyboard, although they used to be heavier. But despite that, I was unable to flex this case hardly at all. There is a metal backplate so that really helps it quite a lot. Although not exactly part of the build quality, this Unicomp does have molding blemishes. Especially on the back, but that is to be expected. Their badge, which is found on the lock-lights, fits perfectly in place with everything else. This keyboard does have some decent build quality. 

Keycaps:

The keycaps on this specific model has two-part keycaps, just like the good ol' Model M. As expected, there is dye-sublimated printing with nice PBT caps. Unicomp also made the spacebar PBT, so that is also a plus. Windows and Context keys exist, and as such, this is THE Modernized Model M. Also, the two-tone caps just look super sexy with the black case, as stated before. But that's just me, of course.

The Switches:

I don't know why I'm even putting this section in here, tbh. But these switches are called membrane buckling springs, (or the complicated name, buckling springs over membrane.) These switches are the cost-reduced version of the previous Model F design, capacitive buckling springs. Both are great switches, and are metallic, clicky, and pingy.

Layout:

This is in a 101, 103, and 104 key layout only, available in ANSI or ISO. They do not make an SSK yet, which is very unfortunate. I would love a new TKL M but I still love full-sized layouts.

The Flukes:

I could only find one so far, and that is the F1 key will press down, but will not click. This is fixed by spamming it a few times.

All-in-all, I really so love this keyboard. This is a great beginner's Model M to try out. I personally love it. Let me know if I missed something.

Thanks!
~IBMPCDOS5

[ander]

I [hinted] that I would be ordering a Model M, and I did. It's not an IBM made M, a Lexmark made M, or even a Maxi Switch M. I went the cheaper route and got a Unicomp Model M...

Congratulations! They're great boards, all right—and it's a good thing to support the folks in Lexington, KY who are doing their best to keep making new BS boards available to the spring-loving public.

I'm not sure what you meant about going "the cheaper route", though. Were you referring only to new Model M's? If so, it's true that unused pre-Unicomp M's are pricey collectors's items.

But if you don't mind doing a bit of work, you can usually pick up an original '80s–'90s IBM or Lexmark Model M on eBay for around $70 shipped. They're so well made, you can usually clean them up (and there's lots of advice about that here) so they look and work practically like they just came off the assembly line. If you ever decide to add a 2nd BS board to your collection, you may want to consider that.

[Snowdog993]

It's not an IBM made M, a Lexmark made M, or even a Maxi Switch M. I went the cheaper route and got a Unicomp Model M.

Edit: A review of a Model M.

[IBMPCDOS5]

I [hinted] that I would be ordering a Model M, and I did. It's not an IBM made M, a Lexmark made M, or even a Maxi Switch M. I went the cheaper route and got a Unicomp Model M...

Congratulations! They're great boards, all right—and it's a good thing to support the folks in Lexington, KY who are doing their best to keep making new BS boards available to the spring-loving public.

I'm not sure what you meant about going "the cheaper route", though. Were you referring only to new Model M's? If so, it's true that unused pre-Unicomp M's are pricey collectors's items.

But if you don't mind doing a bit of work, you can usually pick up an original '80s–'90s IBM or Lexmark Model M on eBay for around $70 shipped. They're so well made, you can usually clean them up (and there's lots of advice about that here) so they look and work practically like they just came off the assembly line. If you ever decide to add a 2nd BS board to your collection, you may want to consider that.

Thanks! I really did want a real M, but because I only had Amazon cards, I had to pass on it. I went with a Unicomp because it was cheaper; $95.50 for an IBM M, $89 for a Unicomp. Now I will probably get an M off of eBay so I can get better build quality, a better badge (imo) and fuller sound. Although then I would bolt/screw-mod the keyboard.
Still a clicky keyboard and better than MX Greens. The accutation sounds like bottoming out once you hear the BS sound. 
-IBMPCDOS5

[bloorocket]

Make a typing video please 

[fohat.digs]

I really did want a real M,

A Unicomp is a *real* Model M in every sense of the word.

You hear a lot of elitist crap from elitists here, and better words might be "vintage" and "modern"

Disclaimer: I have 5 Model Ms: 4 IBMs and 1 Unicomp. I like the old ones better.

[IBMPCDOS5]

Make a typing video please 

Will do sometime!

I really did want a real M,

A Unicomp is a *real* Model M in every sense of the word.

You hear a lot of elitist crap from elitists here, and better words might be "vintage" and "modern"

Disclaimer: I have 5 Model Ms: 4 IBMs and 1 Unicomp. I like the old ones better.

True. Both versions are good but the Unicomp is made more flimsy than the IBM M's. In fact, I have a funny story about this.

Most of the keys were quite smooth, really nice. But the F7 key was really, really scratchy compared to the rest of the lot. So what do I do? I take off the cap. No dust or dirt, but the spring somehow managed to fall out. Note that the keyboard was tilted for a better viewing angle. I still haven't found the damn spring.

[ander]

I really did want a real M, but because I only had Amazon cards, I had to pass on it. I went with a Unicomp because it was cheaper... Still a clicky keyboard and better than MX Greens...

BS boards have always been my favorite, too, but I also like MX Greens very much. There's some speculation that Greens were Cherry's attempt to emulate BS switches, but I don't think there's anything to that. No one's going to make a slider switch that feels like a BS.

Of course we compare everything to everything else here, and everyone has their preferences. All I'm saying is, MXs and BS are great switches of much different types, and I don't think one can be considered inherently "better" than the other.

I really did want a real M...

A Unicomp is a *real* Model M in every sense of the word... You hear a lot of elitist crap from elitists here, and better words might be "vintage" and "modern".

Disclaimer: I have 5 Model Ms: 4 IBMs and 1 Unicomp. I like the old ones better.

Well, Fo, I think you proved the point.

Sure, Unicomps are "real" M's. They're made on the same assembly line on which IBM and Lexmark made theirs. And I think they're utterly worth having and enjoying. I have some myself, and I enjoy the contrast between them and my other BS boards. I also admire the hell out of our friends in Lexington, KY for having the love, vision and persistence to perpetuate the "modern" BS board.

That said, Unicomp's best efforts don't compare well with even fourth-generation (pre-Unicomp) M's. That famously solid feeling just isn't there.

When they were made, IBM and Lexmark M's cost hundreds of bucks—in '80s–'90s dollars, and people were willing to pay for that kind of quality. But by the time the flood of $5 membrane boards arrived from Asia, no one but the most esoteric MK fans could justify that sort of spending.

So to keep making BS boards, at prices people would actually consider, it's obvious Unicomp had to make some serious compromises—most noticeably, in the robustness of their cases, and in their print quality. (They didn't switch to a cheaper printing method, of course; I suspect they just haven't had the budget to keep their dye-sub equipment in the same operating condition IBM/Lexmark did. And while their decision to switch to a narrower, less attractive text font is regrettable and short-sighted, it wouldn't have been financially motivated.)

If the OP ever does manage to get and restore a vintage M, he'll experience the difference himself. It just takes a bit more work. Then he'll have the best of the old and the new—nothing wrong with that!

[IBMPCDOS5]

I really did want a real M, but because I only had Amazon cards, I had to pass on it. I went with a Unicomp because it was cheaper... Still a clicky keyboard and better than MX Greens...

BS boards have always been my favorite, too, but I also like MX Greens very much. There's some speculation that Greens were Cherry's attempt to emulate BS switches, but I don't think there's anything to that. No one's going to make a slider switch that feels like a BS.

Of course we compare everything to everything else here, and everyone has their preferences. All I'm saying is, MXs and BS are great switches of much different types, and I don't think one can be considered inherently "better" than the other.

I really did want a real M...

A Unicomp is a *real* Model M in every sense of the word... You hear a lot of elitist crap from elitists here, and better words might be "vintage" and "modern".

Disclaimer: I have 5 Model Ms: 4 IBMs and 1 Unicomp. I like the old ones better.

Well, Fo, I think you proved the point.

Sure, Unicomps are "real" M's. They're made on the same assembly line on which IBM and Lexmark made theirs. And I think they're utterly worth having and enjoying. I have some myself, and I enjoy the contrast between them and my other BS boards. I also admire the hell out of our friends in Lexington, KY for having the love, vision and persistence to perpetuate the "modern" BS board.

That said, Unicomp's best efforts don't compare well with even fourth-generation (pre-Unicomp) M's. That famously solid feeling just isn't there.

When they were made, IBM and Lexmark M's cost hundreds of bucks—in '80s–'90s dollars, and people were willing to pay for that kind of quality. But by the time the flood of $5 membrane boards arrived from Asia, no one but the most esoteric MK fans could justify that sort of spending.

So to keep making BS boards, at prices people would actually consider, it's obvious Unicomp had to make some serious compromises—most noticeably, in the robustness of their cases, and in their print quality. (They didn't switch to a cheaper printing method, of course; I suspect they just haven't had the budget to keep their dye-sub equipment in the same operating condition IBM/Lexmark did. And while their decision to switch to a narrower, less attractive text font is regrettable and short-sighted, it wouldn't have been financially motivated.)

If the OP ever does manage to get and restore a vintage M, he'll experience the difference himself. It just takes a bit more work. Then he'll have the best of the old and the new—nothing wrong with that!

Oh yeah I'm getting a vintage M! Mark my words ander, I will get one. Too bad they don't show up at all where I'm at and there's no way I'm doin' eBay right now. But my birthday's here in about two months so...
Just imagine me walking into a Goodwill and there's an SSK... the day after I got a new-used M. xD

[Snowdog993]

Oh yeah I'm getting a vintage M! Mark my words ander, I will get one. Too bad they don't show up at all where I'm at and there's no way I'm doin' eBay right now. But my birthday's here in about two months so...
Just imagine me walking into a Goodwill and there's an SSK... the day after I got a new-used M. xD

I'm imagining what could happen already.  Been there, done that.

[ander]

Oh yeah I'm getting a vintage M! Mark my words ander, I will get one. Too bad they don't show up at all where I'm at and there's no way I'm doin' eBay right now. But my birthday's here in about two months so...

Good for you, dude. And don't get me wrong—in no way will an original Model M detract from your enjoyment of your Ultra Classic, or vice versa. Once you can experience them side-by-side, you'll understand how each one has its own charms and personality.

If you want the absolutely most solid, 1st-gen Model M experience, hold out for a part no. 1390131 or 1390120. They were made from around 1986–88, and are the earliest two Model M versions that are PC-compatible. Some have the early Model F-type "barcode" labels (I've pointed to the part numbers):





...and later ones have simpler labels:





'120s are a bit cheaper and easier to find than '131s because they don't have LED status lights:





(They were made for terminal-emulation programs where Caps Lock, etc. was shown onscreen—but most of us can tell when our Caps Lock is on without little lights to tell us, LOL.) That's the only difference between them.

Otherwise, look for a no. 1391401 (the most common Model M number) and get one with a gray logo in the corner—rather than one with the newer blue logo—so it'll be that much different from the board you already have.

You'll also probably want an electronic converter to switch the PS/2 plug to USB. I've found that the best type are these keyboard+mouse cable-style converters:



You don't have to use the mouse connector. They're just a couple of bucks on eBay, including shipping.

Assuming your M is used, you'll want to clean it up before you use it. Here's the basic procedure:

1. Use a key-puller tool:





...to pop off your keys. DON'T risk breaking your precious vintage keys by using a screwdriver or some other object. If you don't have a key-puller, they're quite cheap online too.

2. Separate the caps and stems. The stems are usually covered and rarely need cleaning, so just set them aside.

3. Soak the caps (and any one-piece keys that don't have caps) in warm water with some liquid laundry detergent, for about 30 minutes, stirring them every 10 minutes.

4. Rinse the caps well, then let them dry overnight to be sure every bit of moisture is gone before you put them back on.

5. While your caps are drying, wipe down the case with some alcohol on a rag or paper towel. (It won't hurt IBM's sturdy case material.) If there's dust or other debris on the key bed, you can wipe that out too; Q-Tips are useful for getting into the small places.

You probably won't have to open the back of the case (which requires a special 5mm hex wrench from an electronics store). As long as the board works OK—and they usually do—don't worry if you hear a bit of rattling inside; it'll just be a few of the plastic rivets that have come loose after 20+ years of service. It takes quite a few of them coming off to make any difference.

Well, sorry if I've overwhelmed you with stuff you may have already known. (I live in the suburbs, though, and it takes extra effort to feel useful out here, LOL.) And if you have questions about anything, feel free to ask!

Just imagine me walking into a Goodwill and there's an SSK... the day after I got a new-used M. xD

I'm imagining what could happen already.  Been there, done that.

As you can probably tell, Snow has been everywhere and done everything—and yet he still manages to be enthusiastic now and then.  :?)

[fohat.digs]

to open the back of the case (which requires a special 5mm hex wrench from an electronics store).

It is a 7/32" socket or nut driver although a 5.5mm is extremely close and will work. Be sure that it is "long" and "thin-walled" because the slot is narrow.

[Snowdog993]

Just imagine me walking into a Goodwill and there's an SSK... the day after I got a new-used M. xD

I'm imagining what could happen already.  Been there, done that.

As you can probably tell, Snow has been everywhere and done everything—and yet he still manages to be enthusiastic now and then.  :?)

You do know that I have pictures too!
http://snowdog993.imgur.com/
Just in case you missed it!

[IBMPCDOS5]

Oh yeah I'm getting a vintage M! Mark my words ander, I will get one. Too bad they don't show up at all where I'm at and there's no way I'm doin' eBay right now. But my birthday's here in about two months so...

Good for you, dude. And don't get me wrong—in no way will an original Model M detract from your enjoyment of your Ultra Classic, or vice versa. Once you can experience them side-by-side, you'll understand how each one has its own charms and personality.

If you want the absolutely most solid, 1st-gen Model M experience, hold out for a part no. 1390131 or 1390120. They were made from around 1986–88, and are the earliest two Model M versions that are PC-compatible. Some have the early Model F-type "barcode" labels (I've pointed to the part numbers):


(Attachment Link)


...and later ones have simpler labels:


(Attachment Link)


'120s are a bit cheaper and easier to find than '131s because they don't have LED status lights:


(Attachment Link)


(They were made for terminal-emulation programs where Caps Lock, etc. was shown onscreen—but most of us can tell when our Caps Lock is on without little lights to tell us, LOL.) That's the only difference between them.

Otherwise, look for a no. 1391401 (the most common Model M number) and get one with a gray logo in the corner—rather than one with the newer blue logo—so it'll be that much different from the board you already have.

You'll also probably want an electronic converter to switch the PS/2 plug to USB. I've found that the best type are these keyboard+mouse cable-style converters:

Show Image

You don't have to use the mouse connector. They're just a couple of bucks on eBay, including shipping.

Assuming your M is used, you'll want to clean it up before you use it. Here's the basic procedure:

1. Use a key-puller tool:

Show Image

...to pop off your keys. DON'T risk breaking your precious vintage keys by using a screwdriver or some other object. If you don't have a key-puller, they're quite cheap online too.

2. Separate the caps and stems. The stems are usually covered and rarely need cleaning, so just set them aside.

3. Soak the caps (and any one-piece keys that don't have caps) in warm water with some liquid laundry detergent, for about 30 minutes, stirring them every 10 minutes.

4. Rinse the caps well, then let them dry overnight to be sure every bit of moisture is gone before you put them back on.

5. While your caps are drying, wipe down the case with some alcohol on a rag or paper towel. (It won't hurt IBM's sturdy case material.) If there's dust or other debris on the key bed, you can wipe that out too; Q-Tips are useful for getting into the small places.

You probably won't have to open the back of the case (which requires a special 5mm hex wrench from an electronics store). As long as the board works OK—and they usually do—don't worry if you hear a bit of rattling inside; it'll just be a few of the plastic rivets that have come loose after 20+ years of service. It takes quite a few of them coming off to make any difference.

Well, sorry if I've overwhelmed you with stuff you may have already known. (I live in the suburbs, though, and it takes extra effort to feel useful out here, LOL.) And if you have questions about anything, feel free to ask!

Just imagine me walking into a Goodwill and there's an SSK... the day after I got a new-used M. xD

I'm imagining what could happen already.  Been there, done that.

As you can probably tell, Snow has been everywhere and done everything—and yet he still manages to be enthusiastic now and then.  :?)

Oh yeah I'm getting a vintage M! Mark my words ander, I will get one. Too bad they don't show up at all where I'm at and there's no way I'm doin' eBay right now. But my birthday's here in about two months so...

Good for you, dude. And don't get me wrong—in no way will an original Model M detract from your enjoyment of your Ultra Classic, or vice versa. Once you can experience them side-by-side, you'll understand how each one has its own charms and personality.

If you want the absolutely most solid, 1st-gen Model M experience, hold out for a part no. 1390131 or 1390120. They were made from around 1986–88, and are the earliest two Model M versions that are PC-compatible. Some have the early Model F-type "barcode" labels (I've pointed to the part numbers):


(Attachment Link)


...and later ones have simpler labels:


(Attachment Link)


'120s are a bit cheaper and easier to find than '131s because they don't have LED status lights:


(Attachment Link)


(They were made for terminal-emulation programs where Caps Lock, etc. was shown onscreen—but most of us can tell when our Caps Lock is on without little lights to tell us, LOL.) That's the only difference between them.

Otherwise, look for a no. 1391401 (the most common Model M number) and get one with a gray logo in the corner—rather than one with the newer blue logo—so it'll be that much different from the board you already have.

You'll also probably want an electronic converter to switch the PS/2 plug to USB. I've found that the best type are these keyboard+mouse cable-style converters:

Show Image

You don't have to use the mouse connector. They're just a couple of bucks on eBay, including shipping.

Assuming your M is used, you'll want to clean it up before you use it. Here's the basic procedure:

1. Use a key-puller tool:

Show Image

...to pop off your keys. DON'T risk breaking your precious vintage keys by using a screwdriver or some other object. If you don't have a key-puller, they're quite cheap online too.

2. Separate the caps and stems. The stems are usually covered and rarely need cleaning, so just set them aside.

3. Soak the caps (and any one-piece keys that don't have caps) in warm water with some liquid laundry detergent, for about 30 minutes, stirring them every 10 minutes.

4. Rinse the caps well, then let them dry overnight to be sure every bit of moisture is gone before you put them back on.

5. While your caps are drying, wipe down the case with some alcohol on a rag or paper towel. (It won't hurt IBM's sturdy case material.) If there's dust or other debris on the key bed, you can wipe that out too; Q-Tips are useful for getting into the small places.

You probably won't have to open the back of the case (which requires a special 5mm hex wrench from an electronics store). As long as the board works OK—and they usually do—don't worry if you hear a bit of rattling inside; it'll just be a few of the plastic rivets that have come loose after 20+ years of service. It takes quite a few of them coming off to make any difference.

Well, sorry if I've overwhelmed you with stuff you may have already known. (I live in the suburbs, though, and it takes extra effort to feel useful out here, LOL.) And if you have questions about anything, feel free to ask!

Just imagine me walking into a Goodwill and there's an SSK... the day after I got a new-used M. xD

I'm imagining what could happen already.  Been there, done that.

As you can probably tell, Snow has been everywhere and done everything—and yet he still manages to be enthusiastic now and then.  :?)

Thank you SO much ander for the detailed reponse! I will follow this like a Bibil! (Not a Bible) I do use the mouse port, quite handy tbh. I own two active converters rn, one's a blue Cube, the other is the wire connector. I really need a clicky keyboard right now because because of a weak right hand. I'm also quite young right now introducing me to these keyboards right now is just a great thing to do. Although the odds are against me, I don't care. I live in the suburbs too so I only find rubber domes and the occassional BTC 51x9. xD

[ander]

...to open the back of the case (which requires a special 5mm hex wrench from an electronics store).

It is a 7/32" socket or nut driver although a 5.5mm is extremely close and will work. Be sure that it is "long" and "thin-walled" because the slot is narrow.

Exactly—they look like this:





(It's just a type of wrench; it doesn't have to be that particular brand.) I found one at an electronics store here in Vancouver, Canada for around $6 (which is around $4 in "real" money). Or you can order one online—as I speak, there are some here on eBay starting at $11.86 w/shipping. If you want to get your M really clean, you'll want one of these so you can remove the inner assembly and cable and actually wash the two halves of the case:





You can get it much cleaner that way than just wiping it down from the outside.

Some people actually put the case through a dishwasher, but I highly discourage that. I find it's just fine to use a rag with warm water and a bit of liquid dish soap. I always cover the back label first, too, to protect it. Even if it's laminated, water can get under the edges and stain it.

The other reason to have a wrench is so you can open and repair an M that doesn't work, or work completely. I'm sure you could learn to do that if you wanted to, but of course that gets more complicated.

Thank you SO much ander for the detailed reponse!

Hey, that's why we're here!

I will follow this like a Bibil! (Not a Bible) I do use the mouse port, quite handy tbh. I own two active converters rn, one's a blue Cube, the other is the wire connector...

Either one will work with a Model M. Even when people don't want to use a PS/2 mouse too, I recommend the cable type because:

• They're cheaper

• They work with more kinds of boards

• They won't block your other USB ports

I really need a clicky keyboard right now because because of a weak right hand. I'm also quite young right now introducing me to these keyboards right now is just a great thing to do. Although the odds are against me, I don't care. I live in the suburbs too so I only find rubber domes and the occassional BTC 51x9. xD

You seem quite sincere, so there's another option: Post a message in the "Free Stuff" section here and ask if anyone has an extra Model M that they wouldn't mind giving you. You could mention everything you've told us here, or just point them to this topic. There's nothing to lose!

People here can be generous when someone cares as much about keyboards as they do. Just last year, Snowdog993 sent me a couple of the excellent Model M calendars he produced himself, so I was reminded all year how cool GH people could be.  :?)

[IBMPCDOS5]

Again, thanks so much! I really hope to go to KeyCon this year if it's in Chicago. Don't think they'll  let an almost fourteen-year-old in though, lol. I'll take your advice on posting in the "Free Stuff" thread. Again, thanks so much!
~IBMPCDOS5

Sent from my SM-S120VL using Tapatalk

[ander]

Again, thanks so much! I really hope to go to KeyCon this year if it's in Chicago. Don't think they'll  let an almost fourteen-year-old in though, lol.

Why not? Is there an age limit on appreciating MKs? I hope not.

I'll take your advice on posting in the "Free Stuff" thread. Again, thanks so much!

If I had one to give you, I'd do it myself. Certainly one of these people who have 3 of everything could find a generous spot in their heart to do that... Good luck!

[IBMPCDOS5]

Again, thanks so much! I really hope to go to KeyCon this year if it's in Chicago. Don't think they'll  let an almost fourteen-year-old in though, lol.

Why not? Is there an age limit on appreciating MKs? I hope not.

I'll take your advice on posting in the "Free Stuff" thread. Again, thanks so much!

If I had one to give you, I'd do it myself. Certainly one of these people who have 3 of everything could find a generous spot in their heart to do that... Good luck!

Thanks! Gonna need it. xD You've been very helpful, just got a wire puller just in case off of eBay for $1.89 with free shipping. Gonna have to wait a few weeks.

Sent from my SM-S120VL using Tapatalk