Author Topic: Best paint to use when painting PBT/PVC or ABS?  (Read 6798 times)

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Offline Wingklip

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Best paint to use when painting PBT/PVC or ABS?
« on: Thu, 09 March 2017, 02:12:06 »
Need to paint the case of my model F with something that doesn't dissolve to the slightest touch of oil.

I have heard good about the engine block high temp paints from VHT, which can cure albeit a little slower at an 80*C hairdryer temp, But every single enamel/acrylic paint I have ever tried always sticks to itself when pressed together even 3 weeks from curing. Even my hand is wearing off the sheen of my red painted keyboard, and the light press of a fingernail leaves scratch marks in it.

Seriously disappointed with the appalling selection of paints in Australia. White knight used to work wonders but is complete crap now and never cures. I can even leave prints on it lmao
If you 1v1 me in a cage fight I will use an AK-74 for ranged and an IBM model F 122 for melee

Offline bmmcwhirt

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Re: Best paint to use when painting PBT/PVC or ABS?
« Reply #1 on: Thu, 09 March 2017, 09:14:12 »
All paints have their pros and cons. With plastics you need to make sure you don't use a paint that will eat/melt the plastic.

It comes down to how much time you want to put into the paint job and what tools you have.

Sending it off to be dip coated is one option.

For the best results you will need an airbrush or spray gun. Use a good primer. For plastics I like vallejo grey primer (http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/en_US/primers/family/22). It's a polyurethane so it shrinks as it dries so any texture detail is not lost and it provides a good surface for paint to stick to. You want as thin of a coat of primer as you can get and still cover the surface. The primer needs to dry very well, U usually let larger items sit over night, miniatures I let sit for an hour or two.

For color on something like a keyboard case or computer case I would use Createx Wicked (http://www.createxcolors.com/products/wickedcolors/) using super thin coats. It should take you 4-6 coats to cover where no grey is showing through. If not your coats are too thick. Let each coat dry for 20-60 min before going to the next coat. This helps the paint stick and not rub off so easy. These are soft acrylic paints so a clear coat is ABSOLUTELY required. After you put on your final coat let it cure overnight.

Once it's fully cured your ready for the clear coat. use a tac cloth and wipe down the surface as you don't want a single particle of dust under the clear. If you are good with an aerosol can USC Spray Max 2k (http://www.spraymax.com/index.php?id=361&L=1) is very good. It's a two part clear that mixes in the can so each can is a single use as after about 6hrs it's no good any more. It's also important that it's mixed very well so vigorous shaking of the can for 5min (the directions say two) is best. Use a good respirator with this stuff and get about 3 coats on, you only need to wait about 2-3 min between coats or you get some odd layering.




Offline Wingklip

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  • Location: Soviet Republic of Australasia
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Re: Best paint to use when painting PBT/PVC or ABS?
« Reply #2 on: Fri, 10 March 2017, 00:23:51 »
All paints have their pros and cons. With plastics you need to make sure you don't use a paint that will eat/melt the plastic.

It comes down to how much time you want to put into the paint job and what tools you have.

Sending it off to be dip coated is one option.

For the best results you will need an airbrush or spray gun. Use a good primer. For plastics I like vallejo grey primer (http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/en_US/primers/family/22). It's a polyurethane so it shrinks as it dries so any texture detail is not lost and it provides a good surface for paint to stick to. You want as thin of a coat of primer as you can get and still cover the surface. The primer needs to dry very well, U usually let larger items sit over night, miniatures I let sit for an hour or two.

For color on something like a keyboard case or computer case I would use Createx Wicked (http://www.createxcolors.com/products/wickedcolors/) using super thin coats. It should take you 4-6 coats to cover where no grey is showing through. If not your coats are too thick. Let each coat dry for 20-60 min before going to the next coat. This helps the paint stick and not rub off so easy. These are soft acrylic paints so a clear coat is ABSOLUTELY required. After you put on your final coat let it cure overnight.

Once it's fully cured your ready for the clear coat. use a tac cloth and wipe down the surface as you don't want a single particle of dust under the clear. If you are good with an aerosol can USC Spray Max 2k (http://www.spraymax.com/index.php?id=361&L=1) is very good. It's a two part clear that mixes in the can so each can is a single use as after about 6hrs it's no good any more. It's also important that it's mixed very well so vigorous shaking of the can for 5min (the directions say two) is best. Use a good respirator with this stuff and get about 3 coats on, you only need to wait about 2-3 min between coats or you get some odd layering.

I'm looking at the 2k thing right now, I have to say it's probably worth buying the thing even if it does cost me a good amount. Does it stick to old acrylic paints? I need to clear coat my keyboard paint again because my hand is wearing it down lol. I need to achieve the level of finish created by powdercoating as IBM does for their keyboard cases. Also do they sell the aerosol in separate parts as well or is it always all in one can? It's quite dear considering I don't have that many projects going side by side. Any Australian alternatives?
If you 1v1 me in a cage fight I will use an AK-74 for ranged and an IBM model F 122 for melee

Offline bmmcwhirt

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  • Location: Indiana
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Re: Best paint to use when painting PBT/PVC or ABS?
« Reply #3 on: Fri, 10 March 2017, 00:55:16 »

I'm looking at the 2k thing right now, I have to say it's probably worth buying the thing even if it does cost me a good amount. Does it stick to old acrylic paints? I need to clear coat my keyboard paint again because my hand is wearing it down lol. I need to achieve the level of finish created by powdercoating as IBM does for their keyboard cases. Also do they sell the aerosol in separate parts as well or is it always all in one can? It's quite dear considering I don't have that many projects going side by side. Any Australian alternatives?

Not in aerosol. There are some very good automotive clear coats that are two part. I only use an airbrush so I don't like them as you have to use some industrial cleaner which isn't a problem in a sprayer as much as it is a delicate airbrush.

If your keyboard is showing any wear or fading I would put another coat or two of paint on or strip it and start over before putting on a clear coat. A urethane clear is very hard to get off.

I'm not from Australia so I can only tell you these places may have what you need not how reputable they are.
For the 2K aerosol check this forum for ideas:  http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/archive/2382266

For airbrush supplies and createx paints check here:  http://www.airbrushmegastore.com/