Author Topic: [opensource] GH80-3000 | Cherry G80-3000 replica  (Read 36238 times)

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Offline pngu

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Re: [opensource] GH80-3000 | Cherry G80-3000 replica
« Reply #100 on: Thu, 16 August 2018, 07:26:16 »
I looked into the alignment issue with spacebar and left alt. It can be fixed with the following:

- CAREFULLY file down the protruding parts (top and bottom) between the WK and WKL alt key center peg hole so instead of a 'sideways 8' you have a 'sideways 0' there
- Use a plate mount switch on alt position
- Twist the pins of the switch 90 degrees with pliers (so instead of having the flat sides of the pins face north and south, they're facing east and west), and bent them slightly. This combined with the filing part makes it possible to move the switch to the right as a whole.
- Solder one leg first and see if it's aligned well. If it isn't, reflow and re-position until it sits right. Then solder 2nd leg.

Potato pictures of fixed thing:




Sorry ag36, LightningXI and french dude who probably isn't on GH, if I had known about this problem I would not have distributed my spare PCBs. This fix is quite ghetto but better than nothing I guess.

Also, if anyone has a spare black WKL case, hit me up  :p
« Last Edit: Thu, 16 August 2018, 07:57:35 by pngu »

Offline Ascenity

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Re: [opensource] GH80-3000 | Cherry G80-3000 replica
« Reply #101 on: Mon, 20 August 2018, 18:38:52 »
I looked into the alignment issue with spacebar and left alt. It can be fixed with the following:

Have you got any photos without the keys/switches installed, or from behind? My pcbs are arriving this week and don't want to screw anything up :)

Offline Ascenity

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Re: [opensource] GH80-3000 | Cherry G80-3000 replica
« Reply #102 on: Fri, 31 August 2018, 06:06:02 »
Double post, sorry, but here's a couple of photos of what pngu has described above - basically you have to use a round file to create an oval at S104,  instead of the original infinity symbol shape (∞):

Before



After



I haven't soldered the switches yet, as only just received these, but it looks as if it's going to work :)

Offline pngu

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Re: [opensource] GH80-3000 | Cherry G80-3000 replica
« Reply #103 on: Mon, 03 September 2018, 02:26:09 »
Yes, that's exactly what I meant. Also, you'll want to use a plate mount switch and bend the pins a bit so everything can line up. Thanks for taking these pictures, my phone isn't good enough to do it.

Offline Lifehack

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Re: [opensource] GH80-3000 | Cherry G80-3000 replica
« Reply #104 on: Mon, 03 September 2018, 06:11:27 »
Hello, is the pcb fixed? I've seen that someone reported a number of errors on the layout (bottom row but not only that).

thanks

Offline Ascenity

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Re: [opensource] GH80-3000 | Cherry G80-3000 replica
« Reply #105 on: Mon, 03 September 2018, 14:41:35 »
Yes, that's exactly what I meant. Also, you'll want to use a plate mount switch and bend the pins a bit so everything can line up. Thanks for taking these pictures, my phone isn't good enough to do it.

Awesome, good to hear - I fried two boards somehow, which connected to the PC & worked originally, but after removing overnight, stopped working! I can't figure it out as everything was soldered well (I actually surprised myself) so I'm assuming ESD or something fried the atmega32u4... funny thing is, on my third account, I accidentally removed a pad and had to jump the connection & this one is working perfectly :))

Only issue I'm having at the moment is that the NUMLOCK LED indicator isn't as bright as the other two indicator LED's when programmed with QMK, but when programmed with EasyAVR they're all fine - anyone else run into this issue?

Hello, is the pcb fixed? I've seen that someone reported a number of errors on the layout (bottom row but not only that).

Only issue I've come into is the bottom row alignment (& probably my own separate issue above).

Offline Lifehack

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Re: [opensource] GH80-3000 | Cherry G80-3000 replica
« Reply #106 on: Tue, 04 September 2018, 03:19:08 »
thanks, I meant the post quoted below

Yes, that's exactly what I meant. Also, you'll want to use a plate mount switch and bend the pins a bit so everything can line up. Thanks for taking these pictures, my phone isn't good enough to do it.

Awesome, good to hear - I fried two boards somehow, which connected to the PC & worked originally, but after removing overnight, stopped working! I can't figure it out as everything was soldered well (I actually surprised myself) so I'm assuming ESD or something fried the atmega32u4... funny thing is, on my third account, I accidentally removed a pad and had to jump the connection & this one is working perfectly :))

Only issue I'm having at the moment is that the NUMLOCK LED indicator isn't as bright as the other two indicator LED's when programmed with QMK, but when programmed with EasyAVR they're all fine - anyone else run into this issue?

Hello, is the pcb fixed? I've seen that someone reported a number of errors on the layout (bottom row but not only that).

Only issue I've come into is the bottom row alignment (& probably my own separate issue above).



Just built mine as well, but there seems to be a little problem regarding the bottom row.

As you can see, the alt key is a little misplaced.
I've doublechecked the source and I've found no issue whatsoever, furthermore all the boards I've put together are winkeyless and they are fine.
Make sure the switch is in its correct position, see if there's any gap between the bottom of the switch and the PCB.
Keep me posted.

I took it a bit further and exported the gerbers into kicad, where I checked the placement of the switches by placing my own footprints over them in the exact same place using a 10mil grid since that seems to be what you're using. What I found is that the 1.5u key next to the 7u spacebar is shifted so far to the left that it overlaps the 7u footprint.

[ Attachment Invalid Or Does Not Exist ]

Not only that, but a lot of switches are off by at least 5 mils. The switch spacing is 750 mil (=19,05mm), right? The Esc key is on X = 340, so the F5 key should be on X = 340+(6.5*750) = 5215. But it's on X = 5210. And there are more switches with the same problem.

Offline kokokoy

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Re: [opensource] GH80-3000 | Cherry G80-3000 replica
« Reply #107 on: Tue, 04 September 2018, 05:41:53 »
First off, thanks TalkingTree for this project. Managed to build mine but won't be doing it again.  :)) I'm 1/6 in terms of my build. I don't know if it was lack of skill, lack of good equipment or both. Was thinking of doing it again after getting a few things but g80-3000 are so flimsy that I decided leave it be. One board is good enough. I'll just consider it as learning experience.

Anyway, I used a PCB mount switch and that work well in terms of the spacing on the right ALT though you can see the small difference in the spacing between the left and the right ALTs. And for leds, using firmware out of QMK configurator didn't work but compiling it manually (using msys2) did.

Offline Ascenity

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Re: [opensource] GH80-3000 | Cherry G80-3000 replica
« Reply #108 on: Tue, 04 September 2018, 17:54:59 »
thanks, I meant the post quoted below


That seems to be a non-issue though - the switches might be out by a tiny amount but they're all evenly spaced & fit perfectly into the G80 cases listed in the original post; my finished board doesn't have any issues with fitment or spacing between any of the keys except the 7u spacebar. Hope this helps.

Offline Ascenity

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Re: [opensource] GH80-3000 | Cherry G80-3000 replica
« Reply #109 on: Sun, 09 September 2018, 10:32:44 »
Here's my finished board, in a modern G80 case with OG Cherry Dyesubs (& ePBT 9009 Win/FN):

203183-0

Needed to do a little modification to the case to make it fit (saw 3 plastic posts off), but otherwise, it fits perfectly.

Numpad LED issue still persists on QMK though - is there any way to change the brightness of the LED's within your config.c etc files?
« Last Edit: Sun, 09 September 2018, 10:35:47 by Ascenity »

Offline pngu

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Re: [opensource] GH80-3000 | Cherry G80-3000 replica
« Reply #110 on: Sun, 09 September 2018, 18:04:55 »
Here's my finished board, in a modern G80 case with OG Cherry Dyesubs (& ePBT 9009 Win/FN):

(Attachment Link)

Needed to do a little modification to the case to make it fit (saw 3 plastic posts off), but otherwise, it fits perfectly.

Numpad LED issue still persists on QMK though - is there any way to change the brightness of the LED's within your config.c etc files?

That looks glorious. I'm not sure if TalkingTree provided the option to change LED brightness, but you could solder in a higher value resistor.

Offline Ascenity

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Re: [opensource] GH80-3000 | Cherry G80-3000 replica
« Reply #111 on: Mon, 10 September 2018, 08:21:34 »
That looks glorious. I'm not sure if TalkingTree provided the option to change LED brightness, but you could solder in a higher value resistor.

Thanks dude! Is yours built yet?

I'm using 470ohm resistors on each LED, but my num-lock LED is much dimmer than caps + scroll lock, so I'm just trying to figure that out - they're all equally as bright with EasyAVR, but not with QMK. I'm going to desolder it & see if I can figure it out off-board because I lifted the pads on the num-lock LED through-holes, as my original LED cracked when I cut the leg, so I might not have routed it correctly.

Offline pngu

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Re: [opensource] GH80-3000 | Cherry G80-3000 replica
« Reply #112 on: Wed, 12 September 2018, 02:10:39 »
they're all equally as bright with EasyAVR, but not with QMK.

Well that sounds more like a software issue then. I built mine but am still waiting for resistors, the ones I ordered never showed up so I ordered some more from a different store:



OG doubleshots and retooled blacks in a ~1986 G80-1K case. Some of the PCB mount switches were a VERY tight fit and aren't seated properly, I'll need to re-do those.

Offline Ascenity

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Re: [opensource] GH80-3000 | Cherry G80-3000 replica
« Reply #113 on: Wed, 12 September 2018, 12:43:10 »
they're all equally as bright with EasyAVR, but not with QMK.

Well that sounds more like a software issue then. I built mine but am still waiting for resistors, the ones I ordered never showed up so I ordered some more from a different store:

Show Image


OG doubleshots and retooled blacks in a ~1986 G80-1K case. Some of the PCB mount switches were a VERY tight fit and aren't seated properly, I'll need to re-do those.

Ah, that's annoying. I got all my components from LCSC (JLCPCB's component company), so it all came in the same package :) Yeah, that's what I thought, but I'll have to try de-soldering first to double check and then go from there.

Looks super nice dude! Yeah, I used H year code (1995) PCB mount MX blacks & had to absolutely force them in (destroyed my thumbs haha) - I even had to desolder a few and push them in a bit further to align the caps properly, but it was worth it, I think!


Offline kokokoy

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Re: [opensource] GH80-3000 | Cherry G80-3000 replica
« Reply #114 on: Wed, 19 September 2018, 20:41:20 »
Heads up, I purchased PCB mounted gateron yellow from kbdfans and the pegs are thicker! Had to make all the mounting holes a bit bigger w/ a 2mm bit.  :'( Not sure why those switches are like that but I have some leftover cherry silent blanks and gateron clears that fits fine.

Anyway finally finished it and all looks good.

Offline tedfs3

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Re: [opensource] GH80-3000 | Cherry G80-3000 replica
« Reply #115 on: Thu, 20 September 2018, 18:04:19 »
First of all, thank you for posting this. Very cool to see a project like this.

Did you make this project in KiCad or Eagle ? I haven't played with KiCad in a while but it's pretty fun to make something in KiCad and have it shipped to your door in less than a week.
Just have to watch out for Chinese New Year.

Offline tedfs3

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Re: [opensource] GH80-3000 | Cherry G80-3000 replica
« Reply #116 on: Sat, 29 September 2018, 21:56:17 »
Thinking of doing this in a left handed version but will need to study the Gerbers and start from scratch in KiCad.
Thank you for the inspiration.

Offline t8c

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Re: [opensource] GH80-3000 | Cherry G80-3000 replica
« Reply #117 on: Fri, 05 October 2018, 11:58:23 »
Would anyone offer assembly in EU ?

Offline abrahamstechnology

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Re: [opensource] GH80-3000 | Cherry G80-3000 replica
« Reply #118 on: Mon, 08 October 2018, 18:23:11 »
I'm getting a bunch of these made. I want to see if  I can dremel out a bunch of cheap rubber dome boards and stick these in.

Offline abrahamstechnology

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Re: [opensource] GH80-3000 | Cherry G80-3000 replica
« Reply #119 on: Fri, 19 October 2018, 17:03:38 »
Hi, I am having an issue with mine. I plug it in and nothing at all shows in Device Manager. I am sure I have soldered everything in correctly, I assembled two boards just to make sure I didn't make any mistakes. Any ideas?


UPDATE: Never mind, it's my soldering. Need to get a hot air station.
« Last Edit: Fri, 19 October 2018, 17:39:56 by abrahamstechnology »

Offline tedfs3

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Re: [opensource] GH80-3000 | Cherry G80-3000 replica
« Reply #120 on: Fri, 19 October 2018, 22:22:58 »
Does anyone have the part numbers for the LEDs used in this ? I can see the BOM on EasyEDA but no part number. Clicking the link to see availability/buy takes me to a different site that needs another account. Just wondering what LEDs are used so I can get a feel for what's being used.

Offline t8c

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Re: [opensource] GH80-3000 | Cherry G80-3000 replica
« Reply #121 on: Sat, 20 October 2018, 09:58:37 »
Anyone experiencing problems with using reset hotkeys in QMK/EasyAVR? I have to short manually or else it just exits bootloader mode in 1 second.

Offline abrahamstechnology

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Re: [opensource] GH80-3000 | Cherry G80-3000 replica
« Reply #122 on: Tue, 23 October 2018, 20:30:28 »

Offline abrahamstechnology

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Re: [opensource] GH80-3000 | Cherry G80-3000 replica
« Reply #123 on: Wed, 24 October 2018, 10:18:41 »
Another question: I got firmware on it and it is recognized as a HID Keyboard Device, but it outputs nothing when I short out the appropriate pads.

I think the problem might be the firmware, the clock crystal, or I may have damaged the ATmega32u4 during my poor soldering attempts.

Does anyone have a known-working firmware .hex file I can have so I can troubleshoot? Thanks.

Offline pngu

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Re: [opensource] GH80-3000 | Cherry G80-3000 replica
« Reply #124 on: Wed, 24 October 2018, 20:06:59 »
Another question: I got firmware on it and it is recognized as a HID Keyboard Device, but it outputs nothing when I short out the appropriate pads.

I think the problem might be the firmware, the clock crystal, or I may have damaged the ATmega32u4 during my poor soldering attempts.

Did you solder on diodes? And did you solder them the correct way? If the crystal was damaged it wouldn't work at all.

Offline abrahamstechnology

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Re: [opensource] GH80-3000 | Cherry G80-3000 replica
« Reply #125 on: Thu, 25 October 2018, 17:12:40 »
Another question: I got firmware on it and it is recognized as a HID Keyboard Device, but it outputs nothing when I short out the appropriate pads.

I think the problem might be the firmware, the clock crystal, or I may have damaged the ATmega32u4 during my poor soldering attempts.

Did you solder on diodes? And did you solder them the correct way? If the crystal was damaged it wouldn't work at all.
I'm sure it was my soldering, I damaged the board and/or processor. Oh well, now I have an excuse to get a hot air station.

Offline abrahamstechnology

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Re: [opensource] GH80-3000 | Cherry G80-3000 replica
« Reply #126 on: Mon, 29 October 2018, 20:27:04 »
**EDIT** (Sorry, I know I edit things a lot)
Use ATMEL FLIP to flash the firmware, then click "Start Application" I was using QMK toolbox which was giving me the no key output.
« Last Edit: Mon, 29 October 2018, 20:41:19 by abrahamstechnology »

Offline abrahamstechnology

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Re: [opensource] GH80-3000 | Cherry G80-3000 replica
« Reply #127 on: Sun, 16 December 2018, 10:41:00 »
Hello again, I need a firmware for the winkeyed version, the one from QMK has LED issues like others have mentioned above.

Offline angelbirth

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Re: [opensource] GH80-3000 | Cherry G80-3000 replica
« Reply #128 on: Mon, 17 December 2018, 01:09:56 »
Anyone experiencing problems with using reset hotkeys in QMK/EasyAVR? I have to short manually or else it just exits bootloader mode in 1 second.
have you tried flash qmk-dfu bootloader?

Sent from my AUM-AL20 using Tapatalk


Offline TalkingTree

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Re: [opensource] GH80-3000 | Cherry G80-3000 replica
« Reply #129 on: Mon, 04 May 2020, 16:59:46 »
v1.1: Replaced USB mini with Type-C; fixed many misalignments. This should address every report posted so far.
My opensource projects: GH80-3000, TOAD, XMMX.

Offline AngryCoder

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Re: [opensource] GH80-3000 | Cherry G80-3000 replica
« Reply #130 on: Wed, 06 May 2020, 17:43:18 »
v1.1: Replaced USB mini with Type-C; fixed many misalignments. This should address every report posted so far.
Hi, do you happen to have 1-2 boards of the new versions for sale?

Offline TalkingTree

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Re: [opensource] GH80-3000 | Cherry G80-3000 replica
« Reply #131 on: Thu, 07 May 2020, 01:03:21 »
Hi, do you happen to have 1-2 boards of the new versions for sale?
I don't, sorry.
My opensource projects: GH80-3000, TOAD, XMMX.

Offline Rayndalf

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Re: [opensource] GH80-3000 | Cherry G80-3000 replica
« Reply #132 on: Sun, 10 May 2020, 21:37:03 »
What would be the most cost effective way to get a small number (say 3) made?
I guess I'd need to learn SMD soldering first, but I was wondering if there was a recommended PCB manufacturer for stuff like this.

Offline TalkingTree

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Re: [opensource] GH80-3000 | Cherry G80-3000 replica
« Reply #133 on: Mon, 11 May 2020, 07:00:13 »
What would be the most cost effective way to get a small number (say 3) made?
I guess I'd need to learn SMD soldering first, but I was wondering if there was a recommended PCB manufacturer for stuff like this.
I've read JLCPCB offers assembly for boards with green solder masks. If you do that, keep in mind that the values for C1 and C2 are not declared as those would depend on the chosen crystal.
My opensource projects: GH80-3000, TOAD, XMMX.

Offline Rayndalf

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Re: [opensource] GH80-3000 | Cherry G80-3000 replica
« Reply #134 on: Tue, 12 May 2020, 00:09:00 »
What would be the most cost effective way to get a small number (say 3) made?
I guess I'd need to learn SMD soldering first, but I was wondering if there was a recommended PCB manufacturer for stuff like this.
I've read JLCPCB offers assembly for boards with green solder masks. If you do that, keep in mind that the values for C1 and C2 are not declared as those would depend on the chosen crystal.

So they'd do the SMD components too? Someone should really do a run of these, I'm probably too stupid to figure it out, but I might just have to.

Offline TalkingTree

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Re: [opensource] GH80-3000 | Cherry G80-3000 replica
« Reply #135 on: Tue, 12 May 2020, 06:22:26 »
So they'd do the SMD components too?
SMD alone if I got it right. You can then solder switches on your own.
My opensource projects: GH80-3000, TOAD, XMMX.

Offline Pylon

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Re: [opensource] GH80-3000 | Cherry G80-3000 replica
« Reply #136 on: Wed, 13 May 2020, 12:31:34 »
You can get the cost down quite a bit if you order more than a couple, so maybe it's time for a group buy.

Online dallman5

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Re: [opensource] GH80-3000 | Cherry G80-3000 replica
« Reply #137 on: Wed, 13 May 2020, 12:35:22 »
I'd be interested one if people arrange a GB.
Current collection:
More
HHKB Pro 1 (KB300BN) | Realforce 86U (White) | Realforce R2 PFU Edition (Ivory) | Realforce 87U (Blank Black) | Leopold FC660C (Blank Black)

GSKT-00 (Silver, Poker) | TGR x Singa Unikorn (Purple) | TGR 910 SE (Pink on Blue) | TGR 910 RE (Polycarbonate) | OTD Koala (Silver, WKL) | TGR Jane v2 (Blue-grey, WKL) | LZ-MP (Shine Grey, WKL) | TGR Alice (Grey on Pink) | TGR Tris (Blue) | Lynn Montage (Light Blue, WKL) | LZ-GH v1 (Black, WKL) | Duck Viper v3 (Grey on Black) | GSKT-00 R2 (Grey, HHKB)

IBM Model M SSK (APL) | IBM 3279 Beamspring (APL) | IBM Model F Unsaver (APL)

Offline Azurewrath

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Re: [opensource] GH80-3000 | Cherry G80-3000 replica
« Reply #138 on: Sat, 16 May 2020, 20:30:49 »
Damn.. an update just after i ordered a few boards. :(
Ah well, the old version will work fine as well i guess. I'm in the process of finishing the first one these days.. first time soldering smd. The atmel went unexpectedly well.. got it perfect on the second try, guess a ton of flux always helps. :D

But those diodes are driving me insane.. the sheer number of them and then the pads even seem a bit to small...

I ordered five boards and doubt i'll finish more than maybe 2-3 of them. So if someone wants one, i'd sell 2-3 of them. (including the components, same price i paid plus shipping. But i'm still waiting for the crystal, i'd like to verify that i bought the correct components)
« Last Edit: Sat, 16 May 2020, 20:33:08 by Azurewrath »

Offline TalkingTree

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Re: [opensource] GH80-3000 | Cherry G80-3000 replica
« Reply #139 on: Sun, 17 May 2020, 05:06:12 »
the old version will work fine as well i guess.
It will aside from the standard bottom row, as the winkeyless is not affected. Every other misalignment was within tolerance anyway.
My opensource projects: GH80-3000, TOAD, XMMX.

Offline t8c

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Re: [opensource] GH80-3000 | Cherry G80-3000 replica
« Reply #140 on: Sun, 17 May 2020, 05:53:29 »
I'd be interested one if people arrange a GB.
Interested also.

Offline Azurewrath

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Re: [opensource] GH80-3000 | Cherry G80-3000 replica
« Reply #141 on: Wed, 20 May 2020, 05:51:33 »
Just wanted to order a few of the new revision PCBs from JLCPCB and they told me that there might be a shorting issue with the new USB-C ground pads (see picture they sent). Now i have no idea about PCB design (or electronics really), but i looked at the files and for me it looks like the two ground pads only connect to the LED2_1 trace, which in itself only connects to two LED ground pads called LED2_1 as well. So it might be no real issue?

Any idea? :)

Offline TalkingTree

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Re: [opensource] GH80-3000 | Cherry G80-3000 replica
« Reply #142 on: Wed, 20 May 2020, 15:31:05 »
Definetely my bad, sorry.

Fixed.
My opensource projects: GH80-3000, TOAD, XMMX.

Offline Azurewrath

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Re: [opensource] GH80-3000 | Cherry G80-3000 replica
« Reply #143 on: Wed, 20 May 2020, 17:20:05 »
Looks good, thanks. :)

I thought about just dragging that trace up like you did, but as i said i have no real idea what i'm doing. :D

Offline TalkingTree

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Re: [opensource] GH80-3000 | Cherry G80-3000 replica
« Reply #144 on: Thu, 21 May 2020, 08:35:05 »
I thought about just dragging that trace up like you did
That and you then have to rebuild the copper layer otherwise traces and solder masks won't match.
My opensource projects: GH80-3000, TOAD, XMMX.

Offline Rayndalf

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Re: [opensource] GH80-3000 | Cherry G80-3000 replica
« Reply #145 on: Thu, 28 May 2020, 17:17:12 »
I guess I'll just have to be the change I want to see in the world. How do people typically run group buys for other people's PCBs?

Edit: Also how would I go about choosing and denoting a crystal and values for resistors C1 and C2?
« Last Edit: Thu, 28 May 2020, 22:04:00 by Rayndalf »

Offline TalkingTree

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Re: [opensource] GH80-3000 | Cherry G80-3000 replica
« Reply #146 on: Fri, 29 May 2020, 01:03:39 »
Also how would I go about choosing and denoting a crystal and values for resistors C1 and C2?
Theoretically you should check the crystal datasheet and do your math by also taking the length of traces into account. In my experience USB tends to be very forgiving so I've never had problems with different capacitors pair on the same crystal, as long as C1 and C2 have the same value. Anything between 18pf and 22pf had worked flawlessly so far.
My opensource projects: GH80-3000, TOAD, XMMX.

Offline Rayndalf

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Re: [opensource] GH80-3000 | Cherry G80-3000 replica
« Reply #147 on: Fri, 29 May 2020, 01:20:30 »
How do I denote the crystal and resistors when I submit the PCB to JLCPCB?

Offline TalkingTree

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Re: [opensource] GH80-3000 | Cherry G80-3000 replica
« Reply #148 on: Fri, 29 May 2020, 01:32:57 »
How do I denote the crystal and resistors when I submit the PCB to JLCPCB?
You mean capacitors. You should edit the source and assign a value to them so they know what to solder. Preferably, you want to use LSCS part numbers.
My opensource projects: GH80-3000, TOAD, XMMX.

Offline Rayndalf

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Re: [opensource] GH80-3000 | Cherry G80-3000 replica
« Reply #149 on: Fri, 29 May 2020, 02:00:05 »
 Woops :-[
What clock rating should be used? (If this is explained elsewhere I'm truly sorry)