taking potatocam to a whole new level lol
The lens was blurry, it's a tiny object, and there was movement in frame, not a good situation for any potato cam.
Anyhow, I got in a rush to capture the moment, but as Krogenar said, it printed. lol
can you illuminate (lol) how you did your heated plate? materials etc? i want to (but may not get around to) playing around with rotating heated mica/silicate beds. the canonical example of an object that will print well in a polar system and not a cartesian is the simple cylinder (whereas the cube, or worse, the high ratio rectangle) is the vv example.
i will definitely start by playing with mica-silicate non-rotating beds though, so definitely, parts, bom, measurements, etc. (reminder: pick up a type-k probe and fluke adapter or dedicated unit for precise contact measurement -- IR is going to pick up and average too much of the bed, exactly what you don't want when you're measuring uniformity).
I got a PCB based heat bed (which is smaller than my build area) along with belts/pulleys, Arduino, sd adapter, and endstops in a smoking combo deal on Ebay.
I covered it with green glass and Aqua Net hairspray (make sure it's cold or it will look like Michael Jackson's hair). Also you want to cover anything such as mechanicals to avoid the spray as it can gum things up. I sprayed some on a paper towel and wiped it onto the surface 5 prints so far without having to reapply. I use 8 clamp type paper clips to hold it around the perimeter and ensure good contact as the pcb's are never flat.
PCB beds heat faster, cost more and use more power, mine plus glass and clips takes about 7 minutes to heat up, but I think I need a stronger PSU, as the heat system cycles I can see my LED build area lights flicker a touch. My bed alone is sucking up about 11 amps, plus the 5 for the rest of the system really taxes the PSU the little PSU I'm using (I have 1 or 2 spare amps on an old, used psu). I also had to add a fan to the Arduino as the heater was overloading the circuits.
No matter how round you try and make something, you have to remember that you are working in digital, at some point you hit the pixel level and it will simply not get anymore round. Although, I'm seeing it, despite being digital, if you slow down the jerk movement and run a few degrees cooler/more fan, you can actually round the corners. At least on a Delta. While making the cubes, a few corners on a few levels ended up rounding due to the speed of the arm jerk versus the speed of filament extrusion. I ended up with a really nice rounded corner.
As for temps, I fired a few temp probes on my bed, one I crushed two were damaged while adding heat shrink (thermistors are damaged by an open flame, but soldering irons are fine...) so I am using a 10k resistor from an old pc fan I had laying around. It's quite inaccurate, however I'm having no issues with the bed temps, I just kinds guessed on a how off it might be and it works fine, it's off by about 2-3 degrees at room temp, so I set it 6-8 degrees below target temp, How did I get that, well, for each degree after that, it gets increasingly longer to heat up, and I got tired of waiting and just decided to print and see what happens. LOL It worked.
Point is, don't worry about temp accuracy, find a temp that works. Nozzle size, filament type and even filament brand will change what temps work best. On a .5 nozzle, I get flow around 220c, but I print at 235c. On a .35 nozzle I don't even see flow until 240 and print at 245. When you go too high on either plastic, you can smell it and when it's too low, it won't do anything. My experience so far has been that it should slowly drool when it gets near the right temp and a full nozzle.
To get started, worry more about getting things running right, instead of trying to have it all figured out and measurement-wise perfect. Nothing on these is perfect, and you will probably just over complicate it. You are going to probably spend a long time just figuring out the best temps, nozzle, and THEN you get to play with extrusion settings. Precise temps are the least of your worries and are something easily figured out through trial and error, and are in fact best figured out in that manner. I have heard of ABS varying from 215 to 260 for best melting point. Like I said before, forget the precise number, find what works for you and your combination.
I had the same problem with my first saltwater aquarium, I went all out with all sorts of expensive equipment and I just over complicated it. I downsized and went to a simple all in one, with nothing special and had a great working tank. Same with the printers, get what you REQUIRE and figure out where to go from there.