Author Topic: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)  (Read 3507462 times)

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Offline SpAmRaY

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9750 on: Sun, 14 September 2014, 16:56:02 »
Where can a man based in middle europe buy some Krytox or similar stuff?
Ctrl alt store will have it for sale soon

Offline MOZ

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9751 on: Mon, 15 September 2014, 05:20:42 »
Acrylic is available in 1.5mm, but is too fragile and bends too easily even for small sized boards, as a bare minimum, I would recommend 2mm, and 3mm or more for larger setups like full size, 122-key.

Offline CPTBadAss

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9752 on: Mon, 15 September 2014, 08:10:58 »
Between the JD40 and the SmallFry board that Mkawa is selling, do they all have the same physical layout? 

Would this list work for all three boards?

Considering they're all the same PCB and plate, yes. If I understand  correctly, there is only the JD40 and SmallFry board. Both the SmallFry and the JD40s have the same plates but have a few options on the plates/cases in the form of the open plate and bottom case made from stainless, the layered stainless case, and the SmallFry's titanium plate and bottom case. I think there are a couple revisions of the PCBs. But overall, they're not that different. I don't there's a difference between the JD40 and what CTRL[ALT] is selling besides a updated PCB.

Anyways, since there's only one layout, and that quote is from JD himself that list would work. If you see this JD, please correct any of my mistakes :).

Offline Kaibz

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9753 on: Mon, 15 September 2014, 10:39:43 »
Acrylic is available in 1.5mm, but is too fragile and bends too easily even for small sized boards, as a bare minimum, I would recommend 2mm, and 3mm or more for larger setups like full size, 122-key.

I was just about to buy 1.5 mm online so thank you very much for the tip!!!!
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Offline madhias

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9754 on: Mon, 15 September 2014, 12:50:32 »
Where can a man based in middle europe buy some Krytox or similar stuff?
Ctrl alt store will have it for sale soon

Thanks! Will have a look then, i think i read it somewhere, that there was a Krytox option with the JD40 sets if i remember correctly.
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Offline Photekq

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9755 on: Mon, 15 September 2014, 14:10:45 »
(I am an IBM newb)

Few questions :

What exactly does the solenoid in IBM beam spring keyboards do? Am I right in saying it just makes a clicky noise?
Is there anywhere I can hear what it sounds like?
Is there any delay between the noise from the solenoid and the keypress?
Do all IBM beam spring keyboards have solenoids?
« Last Edit: Mon, 15 September 2014, 14:12:30 by Photekq »
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Offline CPTBadAss

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9756 on: Mon, 15 September 2014, 14:17:24 »
1) What exactly does the solenoid in IBM beam spring keyboards do? Am I right in saying it just makes a clicky noise?
2) Is there anywhere I can hear what it sounds like?
3) Is there any delay between the noise from the solenoid and the keypress?
4) Do all IBM beam spring keyboards have solenoids?

1) I'm not sure what they do besides make a little electronic click noise. I haven't been able to figure out if there's another use for it besides that.
2) My Google search didn't reveal anything but if I can remember where I saw the video of the solenoid sound on Deskthority I'll post it here.

Ok, I found the videos. Here is a beamspring without the solenoid. Shoutouts to Game Theory for posting this:

And this isn't *the best* video for it since he's talking over it but you can hear the solenoid firing. It's much more subtle than I expected. Shoutouts to Halvar for this great post (skip to 1:50):

3) When I tried a keyboard with a solenoid at Keycon, there was no delay.
4) I think so?

I'll keep looking for better answers too.
« Last Edit: Mon, 15 September 2014, 14:26:08 by CPTBadAss »

Offline Photekq

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9757 on: Mon, 15 September 2014, 14:20:24 »
Thanks bro! :thumb:
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Offline dorkvader

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9758 on: Mon, 15 September 2014, 15:00:25 »
(I am an IBM newb)

Few questions :

What exactly does the solenoid in IBM beam spring keyboards do? Am I right in saying it just makes a clicky noise?
Is there anywhere I can hear what it sounds like?
Is there any delay between the noise from the solenoid and the keypress?
Do all IBM beam spring keyboards have solenoids?
Thanks for the heads-up on this one, CPT!

Here's a short writeup I made:
Quote
A solenoid is a moveable metal bit surrounded by copper coils. You put current down the coils and the metal moves. You can use them in hydraulic valves, etc.

KB solenoids (for Wang, IBM, televideo, etc.) have a "stop" at the end and a spring. The spring holds the metal piece on one side. When current is applied, it hits the stop, making a click. When current is gone, it slides back into rest position with the spring.

They are used to make a keyclick sound in the days before DC buzzers and cheap piezoelectric speakers. You could also use them to ring the terminal bell, but in KBs they mostly are used to make a keyclick, as even the click of a beam spring wasn't enough for some typists raised on typewriters.

It's sometimes possible to cycle them fast enough to make them "buzz" but a lot of them can't really cycle fast enough for that. They might be able to handle a buzz (depending on frequency of course) but they are really designed to just make a click.

In short: they make the KB sound and feel more like a typewriter, which is what people were used to at the time. You can use them for other things though, too.

If you like, I can record my 3278 beam spring which has a working solenoid, but I'll have to put the keycaps back on.

There is a very slight delay, but it's almost imperceptible. The solenoid driver xwhatsit has puts a lot of current into it, which means it can accelerate the metal rod pretty quick. More current would make it even faster, but would require more power than USB wants to give it. The way it is now is pretty quick.

Unfortunately, the "reset" time that it takes the solenoid spring to push the rod back to rest position can take a little bit> If you hold a key down, it will build up a buffer of clicks. This could be fixed with a different solenoid and a stronger spring as well as more current to overcome the spring force.

Not all Beam springs have them: for example the displaywriter does not. Those 60% beams that are built into desks probably don't either but I don't know for sure. All the common ones do, to my knowledge. The IBM 3178 "model C" type of model F keyboards also have a solenoid in them.

Offline Photekq

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9759 on: Tue, 16 September 2014, 11:55:19 »
Thanks a lot DV :thumb: All my questions are answered! Now I'm looking forward to my first beamspring even more..
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Offline swill

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9760 on: Tue, 16 September 2014, 12:25:19 »
Are there any 75% Topre boards on the market?  I can't remember ever seeing any, but I figured I would check.  Thx...

Offline CPTBadAss

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9761 on: Tue, 16 September 2014, 12:28:10 »
Are there any 75% Topre boards on the market?

Unless you count the 660C as a 75% board, which I don't, then there isn't. AFAIK, there are 60% boards, TKL, and full sized.

See dorkvader's answer below.
« Last Edit: Tue, 16 September 2014, 14:20:23 by CPTBadAss »

Offline dorkvader

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9762 on: Tue, 16 September 2014, 14:19:20 »
Are there any 75% Topre boards on the market?  I can't remember ever seeing any, but I figured I would check.  Thx...
They exist, mostly as short throw, but there aren't really any available now (or in non-japanese layouts)

as far as available now...
There's also this guy, but it's $68,000 yen (for the left half) and was last produced in 2004.
http://deskthority.net/wiki/Epson_Business_Full_Keyboard
« Last Edit: Tue, 16 September 2014, 14:23:46 by dorkvader »

Offline Senthura

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9763 on: Tue, 16 September 2014, 16:24:59 »
Why might a rubber dome board give me finger cramps?
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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9764 on: Tue, 16 September 2014, 16:36:44 »
Why might a rubber dome board give me finger cramps?

Switch weight might be too heavy, keyboard might be at a bad angle.

See if any of the ergo people have a better answer than I do.
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Offline Melvang

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9765 on: Tue, 16 September 2014, 16:58:14 »
Why might a rubber dome board give me finger cramps?

Switch weight might be too heavy, keyboard might be at a bad angle.

See if any of the ergo people have a better answer than I do.

Being forced to bottom out could be another factor.
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Offline swill

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9766 on: Tue, 16 September 2014, 18:13:33 »
Are there any 75% Topre boards on the market?  I can't remember ever seeing any, but I figured I would check.  Thx...
They exist, mostly as short throw, but there aren't really any available now (or in non-japanese layouts)

as far as available now...
There's also this guy, but it's $68,000 yen (for the left half) and was last produced in 2004.
http://deskthority.net/wiki/Epson_Business_Full_Keyboard
Show Image

Wow, this thing would be epic!



I am going to have to watch for one of these.

Thanks for the quality response, this is great.

@cptn - I have an 660C which I like, but I think I prefer a 75% layout. Still searching for 'the one'. :P

Offline CPTBadAss

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9767 on: Tue, 16 September 2014, 21:41:56 »
Why might a rubber dome board give me finger cramps?

The bottom out, angle of the keyboard, your own posture, keyboard placement, length of time at the keyboard, and typing technique could all play a factor in this.

Offline Melvang

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9768 on: Wed, 17 September 2014, 00:05:54 »
Between the JD40 and the SmallFry board that Mkawa is selling, do they all have the same physical layout? 

Would this list work for all three boards?

Considering they're all the same PCB and plate, yes. If I understand  correctly, there is only the JD40 and SmallFry board. Both the SmallFry and the JD40s have the same plates but have a few options on the plates/cases in the form of the open plate and bottom case made from stainless, the layered stainless case, and the SmallFry's titanium plate and bottom case. I think there are a couple revisions of the PCBs. But overall, they're not that different. I don't there's a difference between the JD40 and what CTRL[ALT] is selling besides a updated PCB.

Anyways, since there's only one layout, and that quote is from JD himself that list would work. If you see this JD, please correct any of my mistakes :).

Thanks, CBA.
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Offline xprongs

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9769 on: Wed, 17 September 2014, 07:33:36 »
I can't seem to find anything on this topic anywhere else - are the Leopold numpads sold at Geekkeys (such as this one: http://www.geekkeys.com/leopold-fc210tp-21-key-numpad-grey/) still "faulty" in that they send numrow instead of numpad?

Cheers in advance!
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Offline CPTBadAss

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9770 on: Wed, 17 September 2014, 07:39:51 »
I can't seem to find anything on this topic anywhere else - are the Leopold numpads sold at Geekkeys (such as this one: http://www.geekkeys.com/leopold-fc210tp-21-key-numpad-grey/) still "faulty" in that they send numrow instead of numpad?

Sorry I'm not following your question. Are you saying that those Leopold tenkeypads were shipping with the wrong keycaps?

Offline SpAmRaY

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9771 on: Wed, 17 September 2014, 07:42:23 »
I can't seem to find anything on this topic anywhere else - are the Leopold numpads sold at Geekkeys (such as this one: http://www.geekkeys.com/leopold-fc210tp-21-key-numpad-grey/) still "faulty" in that they send numrow instead of numpad?

Sorry I'm not following your question. Are you saying that those Leopold tenkeypads were shipping with the wrong keycaps?

He wants to know which scan code set the keypad sends. The numberpad set which is what most people want or the number row set which is how many of these newer pads seem to be programmed.

My suggestion would be to try and contact user feng as that's his store and see if he can test it for you.

Offline CPTBadAss

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9772 on: Wed, 17 September 2014, 07:45:26 »
He wants to know which scan code set the keypad sends. The numberpad set which is what most people want or the number row set which is how many of these newer pads seem to be programmed.

My suggestion would be to try and contact user feng as that's his store and see if he can test it for you.

Ah now I understand. I agree, I think asking Feng might be the easiest way to find your answer.

Offline 002

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9773 on: Wed, 17 September 2014, 09:35:03 »
Are there any 75% Topre boards on the market?  I can't remember ever seeing any, but I figured I would check.  Thx...
They exist, mostly as short throw, but there aren't really any available now (or in non-japanese layouts)

as far as available now...
There's also this guy, but it's $68,000 yen (for the left half) and was last produced in 2004.
http://deskthority.net/wiki/Epson_Business_Full_Keyboard
Show Image

Wow, this thing would be epic!

Here's your chance!

Offline jdcarpe

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9774 on: Wed, 17 September 2014, 09:49:08 »
Between the JD40 and the SmallFry board that Mkawa is selling, do they all have the same physical layout? 

Would this list work for all three boards?

Considering they're all the same PCB and plate, yes. If I understand  correctly, there is only the JD40 and SmallFry board. Both the SmallFry and the JD40s have the same plates but have a few options on the plates/cases in the form of the open plate and bottom case made from stainless, the layered stainless case, and the SmallFry's titanium plate and bottom case. I think there are a couple revisions of the PCBs. But overall, they're not that different. I don't there's a difference between the JD40 and what CTRL[ALT] is selling besides a updated PCB.

Anyways, since there's only one layout, and that quote is from JD himself that list would work. If you see this JD, please correct any of my mistakes :).

JD40, JD40 @ [CTRL]ALT, and SmallFry GB all use the exact same PCB. :D
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Offline ajx

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9775 on: Wed, 17 September 2014, 18:06:06 »
Hey, i would ask if it sounds normal
I got very recently a Ducky Shine S3 in MX-Red
One key does have strange feeling
When you do bottom-out, it feels like any other keys.
At the first steps of travel of key when you pressing it very lightly, it has somehow a kind of resistance.
You could actually feel switch/key having some friction.
It also makes an noticeable click sound despite of having MX-Red which are common known for being nicely quiet when you not pressing them loudly
I dont think its either a ping issue
I removed faulty key and inverted with another key, same case happened
So i took a closer look at switch itself, light pressing makes what i explained above.
I maybe upload video if needed
thanks
« Last Edit: Wed, 17 September 2014, 18:08:32 by ajx »

Offline CPTBadAss

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9776 on: Thu, 18 September 2014, 07:04:25 »


Hey, i would ask if it sounds normal
I got very recently a Ducky Shine S3 in MX-Red

One key does have strange feeling
When you do bottom-out, it feels like any other keys.
At the first steps of travel of key when you pressing it very lightly, it has somehow a kind of resistance.
You could actually feel switch/key having some friction.

It also makes an noticeable click sound

I dont think its either a ping issue
I removed faulty key and inverted with another key, same case happened

Its odd you've got a Red that clicks. I've also been typing in reds for a few months and I have found that they're not really that smooth. I do feel a little resistance and friction when I press down in my board at work.

If it's just one switch it could be a manufacturing issue. Sometimes switches need a break in period. I think your options are too either try typing in the board for a week to see if it fixes itself, replace the switch, or ask for a refund/exchange.

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9777 on: Thu, 18 September 2014, 08:51:23 »
Acrylic is available in 1.5mm, but is too fragile and bends too easily even for small sized boards, as a bare minimum, I would recommend 2mm, and 3mm or more for larger setups like full size, 122-key.
unfortunatelly 1,5mm+ can't handle the stabs :-X
« Last Edit: Thu, 18 September 2014, 08:56:31 by yasuo »
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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9778 on: Thu, 18 September 2014, 08:53:49 »
if the MDF 1,5mm is strong enough to plate?
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Offline CPTBadAss

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9779 on: Thu, 18 September 2014, 08:55:04 »
if the MDF 1,5mm is strong enough to plate?

Perhaps but I wouldn't use MDF for a keyboard plate. Just a personal preference thing.

Offline 00zeRO

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9780 on: Thu, 18 September 2014, 12:40:38 »
I need to find a good keyboard test tool program for testing keyswitch failure rate. Any ideas?
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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9781 on: Thu, 18 September 2014, 12:41:43 »
I need to find a good keyboard test tool program for testing keyswitch failure rate. Any ideas?

aquakeytest.com is the one that I use but not sure how viable it will be for your application.
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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9782 on: Thu, 18 September 2014, 12:42:21 »
I need to find a good keyboard test tool program for testing keyswitch failure rate. Any ideas?

http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=6643.0

also https://elitekeyboards.com/switchhitter.php

Offline CPTBadAss

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9783 on: Thu, 18 September 2014, 12:44:27 »
I need to find a good keyboard test tool program for testing keyswitch failure rate. Any ideas?

http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=6643.0

also https://elitekeyboards.com/switchhitter.php


That Switch Hitter program is what Margo Baggins recommends to check failures and debounce issues. I've only used Aqua Key Test myself but the Switch Hitter program sounds interesting.

Offline MOZ

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9784 on: Thu, 18 September 2014, 14:57:43 »
Acrylic is available in 1.5mm, but is too fragile and bends too easily even for small sized boards, as a bare minimum, I would recommend 2mm, and 3mm or more for larger setups like full size, 122-key.
unfortunatelly 1,5mm+ can't handle the stabs :-X
Yes, that is an issue, and I would recommend PCB stabs if you have to use a plate that will be more than 1.5mm due to material constraints, and if you have to use plate-mounted stabs, then go with a material tat can be used at 1.5mm for plates. Otherwise you have to mod the stabs (Trim them and then glue them)

if the MDF 1,5mm is strong enough to plate?
I would doubt it, as MDF isn't as durable at that thickness, IIRC ming said the same during one of the podcasts.

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9785 on: Fri, 19 September 2014, 02:05:25 »
Yes, that is an issue, and I would recommend PCB stabs if you have to use a plate that will be more than 1.5mm due to material constraints, and if you have to use plate-mounted stabs, then go with a material tat can be used at 1.5mm for plates. Otherwise you have to mod the stabs (Trim them and then glue them)
and the switchs can't "snap"easily dislodged :-X so i should glue them :-X
« Last Edit: Fri, 19 September 2014, 02:11:26 by yasuo »
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Offline jacobolus

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9786 on: Fri, 19 September 2014, 02:34:12 »
if the MDF 1,5mm is strong enough to plate?
Why would you use MDF? At the size of a keyboard, just buy some nice hardwood. Cutting time is going to cost more than the materials here.

For lasered acrylic, I recommend using a 1.5mm (or 1/16") sheet, with a thicker (2.5mm or 1/8") sheet with holes cut a bit larger to not interfere with switches / stabilizer clips immediately below the first one and the two sheets screwed together (possibly with others sheets in a lister-style case).

The two sheets screwed together are sufficiently rigid to make the keyboard work pretty well. It works better than either a thin sheet alone (which is much too flimsy) or a thick sheet alone (which doesn’t let the switches clip in properly).
« Last Edit: Fri, 19 September 2014, 02:38:33 by jacobolus »

Offline koalapear

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9787 on: Fri, 19 September 2014, 03:16:26 »
Where could I find some MX black springs? I have a bunch of reds lying around and I want blacks (or reds that feel like blacks) for a project I'm working on but don't want to shell out the money for new switches if I don't have to.
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Offline yasuo

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9788 on: Fri, 19 September 2014, 03:49:17 »
if the MDF 1,5mm is strong enough to plate?
Why would you use MDF? At the size of a keyboard, just buy some nice hardwood. Cutting time is going to cost more than the materials here.

For lasered acrylic, I recommend using a 1.5mm (or 1/16") sheet, with a thicker (2.5mm or 1/8") sheet with holes cut a bit larger to not interfere with switches / stabilizer clips immediately below the first one and the two sheets screwed together (possibly with others sheets in a lister-style case).

The two sheets screwed together are sufficiently rigid to make the keyboard work pretty well. It works better than either a thin sheet alone (which is much too flimsy) or a thick sheet alone (which doesn’t let the switches clip in properly).
no acrylic 1.5mm, i want tried MDF if strong enough,

so, double plate? :-X
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Offline CPTBadAss

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9789 on: Fri, 19 September 2014, 05:49:08 »
if the MDF 1,5mm is strong enough to plate?
Why would you use MDF? At the size of a keyboard, just buy some nice hardwood. Cutting time is going to cost more than the materials here.

For lasered acrylic, I recommend using a 1.5mm (or 1/16") sheet, with a thicker (2.5mm or 1/8") sheet with holes cut a bit larger to not interfere with switches / stabilizer clips immediately below the first one and the two sheets screwed together (possibly with others sheets in a lister-style case).

The two sheets screwed together are sufficiently rigid to make the keyboard work pretty well. It works better than either a thin sheet alone (which is much too flimsy) or a thick sheet alone (which doesn’t let the switches clip in properly).
no acrylic 1.5mm, i want tried MDF if strong enough,

so, double plate? :-X
Nah that definitely won't work. You'll need to find another material I think. But if you're so determined to try it perhaps you can experiment and b tell us how it works out for you.

Where could I find some MX black springs?

Maybe someone will give you some in the free stuff thread? Otherwise I think techkeys or Mk.Com has blacks you can harvest from. Or you can find cheap boards on eBay with blacks.

Offline ajx

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9790 on: Fri, 19 September 2014, 13:15:00 »


Hey, i would ask if it sounds normal
I got very recently a Ducky Shine S3 in MX-Red

One key does have strange feeling
When you do bottom-out, it feels like any other keys.
At the first steps of travel of key when you pressing it very lightly, it has somehow a kind of resistance.
You could actually feel switch/key having some friction.

It also makes an noticeable click sound

I dont think its either a ping issue
I removed faulty key and inverted with another key, same case happened

Its odd you've got a Red that clicks. I've also been typing in reds for a few months and I have found that they're not really that smooth. I do feel a little resistance and friction when I press down in my board at work.

If it's just one switch it could be a manufacturing issue. Sometimes switches need a break in period. I think your options are too either try typing in the board for a week to see if it fixes itself, replace the switch, or ask for a refund/exchange.
Not a valid vimeo URLwhat do you think?
sorry for bad audio quality, filmed through smartphone



Offline CPTBadAss

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9791 on: Fri, 19 September 2014, 16:58:37 »
Not a valid vimeo URLwhat do you think?
sorry for bad audio quality, filmed through smartphone

My previous answer still stands. Seems like you have a bad switch.

Offline Blaise170

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9792 on: Fri, 19 September 2014, 22:43:51 »
Anyone know what kind of switches are in the Cherry G81-8000LPDUS-2? All the Cherry website says is "mechanical switches".
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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9793 on: Fri, 19 September 2014, 22:45:44 »
Anyone know what kind of switches are in the Cherry G81-8000LPDUS-2? All the Cherry website says is "mechanical switches".

G81=MY switches, though there are rare exceptions to the numbers like an MX G83.

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9794 on: Fri, 19 September 2014, 23:00:45 »
Anyone know what kind of switches are in the Cherry G81-8000LPDUS-2? All the Cherry website says is "mechanical switches".

G81=MY switches, though there are rare exceptions to the numbers like an MX G83.

Are most G83 boards also MY?
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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9795 on: Fri, 19 September 2014, 23:06:01 »
Anyone know what kind of switches are in the Cherry G81-8000LPDUS-2? All the Cherry website says is "mechanical switches".

G81=MY switches, though there are rare exceptions to the numbers like an MX G83.

Are most G83 boards also MY?

G83 = rubber dome.

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9796 on: Fri, 19 September 2014, 23:09:24 »
G83 = rubber dome.

Great, thanks a lot. Should help me sort through the hundreds of keyboards on ebay.
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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9797 on: Sat, 20 September 2014, 02:50:03 »
When handwiring a keyboard matrix, which pins on Teensy 2.0/++ are unable to be used for the rows/columns?
« Last Edit: Sat, 20 September 2014, 02:57:56 by Melvang »
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Offline nahka

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9798 on: Sat, 20 September 2014, 10:10:30 »
My Ducky Shine's spacebar is starting to rattle, I guess it's the stabilizers. Is it a matter of just lubing it?

I reaaaally don't want to have to take it off since the stabilizers are mounted to the plate in Duckies...

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Offline BlueBär

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9799 on: Sat, 20 September 2014, 10:18:47 »
My Ducky Shine's spacebar is starting to rattle, I guess it's the stabilizers. Is it a matter of just lubing it?

I reaaaally don't want to have to take it off since the stabilizers are mounted to the plate in Duckies...

Check if the stabilizers are seated correctly. Cherry stabs shouldn't rattle.