Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)

[Pacifist]

How much does a turquoise gas mask cost? I want to buy one but missed the sale.

Generally how much do these limited edition caps sell for?

[nubbinator]

It was $15 new plus shipping.  You might get some people trying to sell thing for $30+, but, honestly, I wouldn't pay more than $20-25 shipped for one.

[CPTBadAss]

Please read the OP guys, don't ask about pricing here.

[Melvang]

So I've tried out 4 different brands of MX blue keyboards extensively now: Leopold FC200R, Razer Blackwidow (for ****s and giggles), CM QFR, and Filco MJ2.

Strangely enough, two of the keyboards, the Filco and the BW, had blue switches that were extremely light and felt like browns except with the tactile click. The switches on the Leopold felt much heavier, and the QFR felt even heavier, almost like green switches. I've tried out multiple Filcos and BWs, so I know that production batch has nothing to do with it. I have only tried out one Leopold FC200R and one QFR though.

What's even stranger is that the OEM for Filco and CM is Costar, while the OEM for Leopold and Razer is Cherry. What is this madness?!

Does anyone know why there appears to be 2 different types of blue switches on the market? There appears to be a light, ~45g blue switch and a much heavier ~55-60g blue switch. I absolutely loathe the feeling of heavy switches and would like to buy a keyboard with the lighter versions of the blues, but now I'm scared to buy more blue keyboards because I have no way of knowing whether they will be the heavy type or the light type. Can someone shed some light on this please?

My take on this would probably come down to different caps.  The material of the caps can have a HUGE impact on the feeling of the weight of the switches.  Lighter caps will make the switches "feel" heavier since the weight of the cap isn't providing as much preload on the spring in the switch.

I'm thinking of making either a pad similar to the razer orbweaver or a custom numpad with extra macros.

I do debate, and we use computers to do research and whatnot. We have some custom macros to organize everything, and a pad would make hitting the F# macros much easier.

I assume I would need  the PCB, case, and switches. Where would I go for custom PCB and cases? Thinking of using ergo clears as the switch.

I'm thinking of making either a pad similar to the razer orbweaver or a custom numpad with extra macros.

I do debate, and we use computers to do research and whatnot. We have some custom macros to organize everything, and a pad would make hitting the F# macros much easier.

I assume I would need  the PCB, case, and switches. Where would I go for custom PCB and cases? Thinking of using ergo clears as the switch.

If you have room for it my personal suggestion for this would be half an ergodox.  Just for the reason that cases and pcbs are already designed which will take a lot of the headache and some of the cost out of the equation.  Plus it will have more than enough switches for what ever possible macros you could ever think of making for a workstation.

[Dreamre]

How do you remove cherry plate mounted stabilizers? I was able to find a video on costar ones, however I was unable to find one on cherry stabilizers.

[Pacifist]

So I've tried out 4 different brands of MX blue keyboards extensively now: Leopold FC200R, Razer Blackwidow (for ****s and giggles), CM QFR, and Filco MJ2.

Strangely enough, two of the keyboards, the Filco and the BW, had blue switches that were extremely light and felt like browns except with the tactile click. The switches on the Leopold felt much heavier, and the QFR felt even heavier, almost like green switches. I've tried out multiple Filcos and BWs, so I know that production batch has nothing to do with it. I have only tried out one Leopold FC200R and one QFR though.

What's even stranger is that the OEM for Filco and CM is Costar, while the OEM for Leopold and Razer is Cherry. What is this madness?!

Does anyone know why there appears to be 2 different types of blue switches on the market? There appears to be a light, ~45g blue switch and a much heavier ~55-60g blue switch. I absolutely loathe the feeling of heavy switches and would like to buy a keyboard with the lighter versions of the blues, but now I'm scared to buy more blue keyboards because I have no way of knowing whether they will be the heavy type or the light type. Can someone shed some light on this please?

My take on this would probably come down to different caps.  The material of the caps can have a HUGE impact on the feeling of the weight of the switches.  Lighter caps will make the switches "feel" heavier since the weight of the cap isn't providing as much preload on the spring in the switch.

I'm thinking of making either a pad similar to the razer orbweaver or a custom numpad with extra macros.

I do debate, and we use computers to do research and whatnot. We have some custom macros to organize everything, and a pad would make hitting the F# macros much easier.

I assume I would need  the PCB, case, and switches. Where would I go for custom PCB and cases? Thinking of using ergo clears as the switch.

I'm thinking of making either a pad similar to the razer orbweaver or a custom numpad with extra macros.

I do debate, and we use computers to do research and whatnot. We have some custom macros to organize everything, and a pad would make hitting the F# macros much easier.

I assume I would need  the PCB, case, and switches. Where would I go for custom PCB and cases? Thinking of using ergo clears as the switch.

If you have room for it my personal suggestion for this would be half an ergodox.  Just for the reason that cases and pcbs are already designed which will take a lot of the headache and some of the cost out of the equation.  Plus it will have more than enough switches for what ever possible macros you could ever think of making for a workstation.

And then when I get enough money for the other half, I'll have an ergodox!

Hmm, if the GHpad isn't too expensive, I'll do this

[m1_account]

seems like a stupid question that I'm 99% sure of the answer for anyway, but
If you're using a USB to PS/2 adapter, do you still get the input lag inherent in connection via USB?

And if so, why do pretty much all the popular mech keyboards connect primarily via USB, using PS/2 only via adapter?

[SpAmRaY]

seems like a stupid question that I'm 99% sure of the answer for anyway, but
If you're using a USB to PS/2 adapter, do you still get the input lag inherent in connection via USB?

And if so, why do pretty much all the popular mech keyboards connect primarily via USB, using PS/2 only via adapter?

Most modern computer especially laptops don't have PS/2 ports.

[m1_account]

seems like a stupid question that I'm 99% sure of the answer for anyway, but
If you're using a USB to PS/2 adapter, do you still get the input lag inherent in connection via USB?

And if so, why do pretty much all the popular mech keyboards connect primarily via USB, using PS/2 only via adapter?

Most modern computer especially laptops don't have PS/2 ports.

Then they could use PS/2 to USB adapters. My Adesso came with one, I don't see why others do it the other way around.

[esoomenona]

seems like a stupid question that I'm 99% sure of the answer for anyway, but
If you're using a USB to PS/2 adapter, do you still get the input lag inherent in connection via USB?

And if so, why do pretty much all the popular mech keyboards connect primarily via USB, using PS/2 only via adapter?

What lag do you speak of? Anyway, most USB keyboards these days provide 6KRO over USB and NKRO over PS/2. SpamRay is correct. Most computers these days are not coming with PS/2 ports.

[m1_account]

Forget my question entirely. My idea of PS/2 having less input lag than USB was based on outdated/inaccurate information. Thanks for the answers.

[ComradeSniper]

Just got my HHKB2 in the mail. It's great, but the left side doesn't stay stuck to the desk very well, it slides around very easily. Has anyone else had this issue? Is it possible that the case is slightly warped? The rubber foot on the left side seems identical to the one on the right so I don't think it's that.

Very small nitpick, and it doesn't move around unless I push it from the front or back, but when I pay $260 for a keyboard I expect it to be perfect.

[Game Theory]

Just got my HHKB2 in the mail. It's great, but the left side doesn't stay stuck to the desk very well, it slides around very easily. Has anyone else had this issue? Is it possible that the case is slightly warped? The rubber foot on the left side seems identical to the one on the right so I don't think it's that. ...

You probably checked but is your desktop warped?

[ComradeSniper]

Just got my HHKB2 in the mail. It's great, but the left side doesn't stay stuck to the desk very well, it slides around very easily. Has anyone else had this issue? Is it possible that the case is slightly warped? The rubber foot on the left side seems identical to the one on the right so I don't think it's that. ...

You probably checked but is your desktop warped?

I tried it on a few surfaces, it didn't change.

[yasuo]

What could making handwiring keyboard without diode?

[Melvang]

What could making handwiring keyboard without diode?

I believe that you could build a keyboard using a handwired matrix and no diodes but if my limited knowledge is correct it would function but it would essentially be 0KRO

[BlueBär]

Just got my HHKB2 in the mail. It's great, but the left side doesn't stay stuck to the desk very well, it slides around very easily. Has anyone else had this issue? Is it possible that the case is slightly warped?

I think I read about people having slightly warped HHKB cases before so it could be that. Look if one side does not stay on the surface. What you could do is put some additional self adhesive rubber feet on the bottom of the case, that should solve the issue with no risk of damaging the HHKB.

What could making handwiring keyboard without diode?

You could do that but you would probably have to adjust the Teensy code for that (else it might have ghosting, depending on the code). I would recommend just buying some diodes from ebay or a local electronics store, 100 should cost about 1-2$.

[MJ45]

Just got my HHKB2 in the mail. It's great, but the left side doesn't stay stuck to the desk very well, it slides around very easily. Has anyone else had this issue? Is it possible that the case is slightly warped? The rubber foot on the left side seems identical to the one on the right so I don't think it's that. ...

You probably checked but is your desktop warped?

I tried it on a few surfaces, it didn't change.

I put some 3M pads (bump- ons) on the bottom of my HHKB on the four corners and it stops it from moving around.

[Kaspar]

What is the merit of having the actuation point around the middle point of the mechanical switch instead of at the bottom? If it's to have shorter key travel then why not just make shorter keys. It seems to me that it would make more sense for a switch like Cherry MX Red to actuate around the bottom.

Mind you that I have very little real life experience with mechanical keyboards and I'm just theoritizing here.

[Melvang]

When the actuation point is on the bottom of the keystroke like rubber domes then you are forced to bottom out the keys.  This can and will lead to RSI.  This is also a good reason for such a long keystroke (approx 4mm for Cherry MX keys) if you can develop the muscle memory you can type without bottoming out the keys and almost eliminate RSI.  Carpal tunnel on the other hand can still rear its ugly head. 

[BlueBär]

1. What is the merit of having the actuation point around the middle point of the mechanical switch instead of at the bottom? If it's to have shorter key travel then why not just make shorter keys.
2. It seems to me that it would make more sense for a switch like Cherry MX Red to actuate around the bottom.

1. For most typists it's faster and more comfortable to not press the keys all the way down, imagine comparing jumping from one trampoline on another to jumping from one piece of concrete on another. It reduces the "shock" on your finger, if that makes any sense. This is also more ergonomic as Melvang just said.
2. Even for linear switches some people prefer just jumping from one key to another without pressing it all the way down, and people who prefer pressing it all the way down can still do that. Also because Cherry uses some parts for all switches, they can save some production costs.

[ComradeSniper]

Just got my HHKB2 in the mail. It's great, but the left side doesn't stay stuck to the desk very well, it slides around very easily. Has anyone else had this issue? Is it possible that the case is slightly warped? The rubber foot on the left side seems identical to the one on the right so I don't think it's that. ...

You probably checked but is your desktop warped?

I tried it on a few surfaces, it didn't change.

I put some 3M pads (bump- ons) on the bottom of my HHKB on the four corners and it stops it from moving around.

I'll give that a try, thanks!

[Kaspar]

Thank you very much for your answers Melvang & BlueBär.

I have another question though.

Why isn't the keyboard designed like this? (picture underneath)
If numpad was on the other side then the left hand would have 2 things to do ("asdf" + numpad) and the right hand would have 2 ("jklö" + arrows n' stuff). Right now it seems improportionate with 1 and 3 tasks, if I haven't been using the keyboard incorrectly.

[Signature]

Thank you very much for your answers Melvang & BlueBär.

I have another question though.

Why isn't the keyboard designed like this? (picture underneath)
If numpad was on the other side then the left hand would have 2 things to do ("asdf" + numpad) and the right hand would have 2 ("jklö" + arrows n' stuff). Right now it seems improportionate with 1 and 3 tasks, if I haven't been using the keyboard incorrectly.

Show Image

These keyboards excists! Not mechanical ones though! :rolleyes:

[McWilloughby]

Thank you very much for your answers Melvang & BlueBär.

I have another question though.

Why isn't the keyboard designed like this? (picture underneath)
If numpad was on the other side then the left hand would have 2 things to do ("asdf" + numpad) and the right hand would have 2 ("jklö" + arrows n' stuff). Right now it seems improportionate with 1 and 3 tasks, if I haven't been using the keyboard incorrectly.

Show Image

These keyboards excists! Not mechanical ones though! :rolleyes:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321227781548?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

Saw this on eBay the other day..

[edit] having looked at it again, I realise that it is totally left handed. My bad, it's late.

[ComradeSniper]

Thank you very much for your answers Melvang & BlueBär.

I have another question though.

Why isn't the keyboard designed like this? (picture underneath)
If numpad was on the other side then the left hand would have 2 things to do ("asdf" + numpad) and the right hand would have 2 ("jklö" + arrows n' stuff). Right now it seems improportionate with 1 and 3 tasks, if I haven't been using the keyboard incorrectly.

Show Image

I think I have seen a few Korean customs with this layout.

[swill]

This is a noob question, but I wanted to check anyway...

Are all the cherry mx switch housings the same?  Is it only the stem and spring that changes between the different mx switch types/colors?

[jdcarpe]

This is a noob question, but I wanted to check anyway...

Are all the cherry mx switch housings the same?  Is it only the stem and spring that changes between the different mx switch types/colors?

Yes, all except MX Lock.

[swill]

This is a noob question, but I wanted to check anyway...

Are all the cherry mx switch housings the same?  Is it only the stem and spring that changes between the different mx switch types/colors?

Yes, all except MX Lock.

Thank you for the quick response.  So if I like the weight of a red switch, but want to make it tactile, I could replace the red stem with a clear one and it will be tactile.  Very cool.  I know this is not trivial (because all my boards are plate mounted) but good to know.  Now if only I could find clear switches/stems...

[Pacifist]

This is a noob question, but I wanted to check anyway...

Are all the cherry mx switch housings the same?  Is it only the stem and spring that changes between the different mx switch types/colors?

Yes, all except MX Lock.

Thank you for the quick response.  So if I like the weight of a red switch, but want to make it tactile, I could replace the red stem with a clear one and it will be tactile.  Very cool.  I know this is not trivial (because all my boards are plate mounted) but good to know.  Now if only I could find clear switches/stems...

Why does being plate mounted matter? Can't people just unsolder switches?

[swill]

This is a noob question, but I wanted to check anyway...

Are all the cherry mx switch housings the same?  Is it only the stem and spring that changes between the different mx switch types/colors?

Yes, all except MX Lock.

Thank you for the quick response.  So if I like the weight of a red switch, but want to make it tactile, I could replace the red stem with a clear one and it will be tactile.  Very cool.  I know this is not trivial (because all my boards are plate mounted) but good to know.  Now if only I could find clear switches/stems...

Why does being plate mounted matter? Can't people just unsolder switches?

My understanding is that if the switches are PCB mounted, you can just open the switch housing and replace the stems without an desoldering anything. 

If the switches are plate mounted, then you have to desolder all of the switches and remove them from the plate before you can open them.

Its not a huge barrier to doing it, it will just take about twice as long to do the mod is all.  Please correct me if I am wrong about any of this...

[rowdy]

This is a noob question, but I wanted to check anyway...

Are all the cherry mx switch housings the same?  Is it only the stem and spring that changes between the different mx switch types/colors?

Yes, all except MX Lock.

Thank you for the quick response.  So if I like the weight of a red switch, but want to make it tactile, I could replace the red stem with a clear one and it will be tactile.  Very cool.  I know this is not trivial (because all my boards are plate mounted) but good to know.  Now if only I could find clear switches/stems...

Why does being plate mounted matter? Can't people just unsolder switches?

My understanding is that if the switches are PCB mounted, you can just open the switch housing and replace the stems without an desoldering anything. 

If the switches are plate mounted, then you have to desolder all of the switches and remove them from the plate before you can open them.

Its not a huge barrier to doing it, it will just take about twice as long to do the mod is all.  Please correct me if I am wrong about any of this...

Yes, because the switch is also held in place by the plate, and the plate prevents the switch top from being able to be removed.

There is a custom plate that allows switch top removal without desoldering the switch, but that is a custom item.

[Melvang]

Thank you very much for your answers Melvang & BlueBär.

I have another question though.

Why isn't the keyboard designed like this? (picture underneath)
If numpad was on the other side then the left hand would have 2 things to do ("asdf" + numpad) and the right hand would have 2 ("jklö" + arrows n' stuff). Right now it seems improportionate with 1 and 3 tasks, if I haven't been using the keyboard incorrectly.

Show Image

I think a large reason why more keyboards are made this way has to do with the vast majority of people being right handed vs left handed.  Being right handed your right had generally has more dexterity then the left for the extra stuff over on the right side.  Plus if I was to build a keyboard with the numpad on the left I would also put the 2x keys on the opposite side so you would still be hitting the same keys with the same finger.  Although I would probably play with flipping the number keys as well.  Not sure how that would work out for me.  But I am not left handed.

Although I need to retrain myself to shoot left handed since I am left eye dominant.

[rowdy]

What is needed is a modular keyboard, with the alpha section, arrows and 6key, and numpad separate but such that they can be connected together in whatever configuration the user prefers.

There is at least one keyboard that has a numpad that can be positioned on either side.

[Melvang]

Quick questions here.

Does anyone know what the actual radius is on the bottom (.715" square) of the DCS family keys is from SP?

Also where to find dimensions and relations for costar only stabilizer holes.  My plate won't allow cherry wires.

[amasokin]

Deleted my post, opened a thread.

[LechnerDE]

Simple question:

Is there a tool to check the rollover of your keyboard?

I'd like to check the differences between USB and PS2 and the differences between directly plugging the board in via USB vs an USB hub.

[infiniti]

Simple question:

Is there a tool to check the rollover of your keyboard?

I'd like to check the differences between USB and PS2 and the differences between directly plugging the board in via USB vs an USB hub.

You could use Aqua Key Test (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=34670) and count how many keys are registered when you press them simultaneously.

[Signature]

Is theer a vendor on GH that makes 60% stainless steel plates or where do you get them?

[Masterchief79]

Hi guys, are there major differences (for example when it comes to coding) between the Teensy 2.0 and 3.0?

[Melvang]

Hi guys, are there major differences (for example when it comes to coding) between the Teensy 2.0 and 3.0?

I don't believe so.  At this site if you scroll down a bit to the software section there isn't any thing annotating and differences between the three boards.  But if someone could correct me if I am wrong that would be great.

[CPTBadAss]

Hi guys, are there major differences (for example when it comes to coding) between the Teensy 2.0 and 3.0?

There's a better processor, more memory, and more pins on the 3.0 as opposed to the 2.0. I'm not sure about the coding, but it looks to be the same based on the kickstarter page.

Is theer a vendor on GH that makes 60% stainless steel plates or where do you get them?

The_Beast had a few GBs for them. Right now I don't think he's got any for sale. You could always try and find the CAD files for them and get them cut locally yourself.

[BlueBär]

Hi guys, are there major differences (for example when it comes to coding) between the Teensy 2.0 and 3.0?

The Teensy 3.0 uses a different processor which you might have to adjust the code for.

Is theer a vendor on GH that makes 60% stainless steel plates or where do you get them?

Beast used to make some, but I don't think he still does.


Sniped

[Melvang]

I believe the reason The_Beast isn't making plates right now is because of school.

[Photoelectric]

Maybe not so simple, but does anyone happen to know which white and beige SP colors are IMSTO's white and beige thick PBT caps closest to?

SP PBT colors:
http://keycapsdirect.com/pbtcolors.php

SP ABS colors:
http://keycapsdirect.com/abscolors.php

[Melvang]

Well according to SP legends a specific to a key size so 1u legends are not available for 1.5u key.  So my questions is this.  Is there anywhere I can go to see what legends are available for 1.5u keys?

[jonathanyu]

Hi guys, are there major differences (for example when it comes to coding) between the Teensy 2.0 and 3.0?

The Teensy 3.0 uses a different processor which you might have to adjust the code for.

Is theer a vendor on GH that makes 60% stainless steel plates or where do you get them?

Beast used to make some, but I don't think he still does.


Sniped

I think GON makes them

[Sifo]

Beast makes the SS ones, GON only deals in aluminum.

[MOZ]

Well according to SP legends a specific to a key size so 1u legends are not available for 1.5u key.  So my questions is this.  Is there anywhere I can go to see what legends are available for 1.5u keys?

I asked Melissa for the legends they have so we can make better mockups, she told me, they have over 3000 legends. And no consolidated electronic copy that can be used as a reference.

[Krogenar]

Where can I find fullsize (TK) Ducky-compatible replacement cases? I plan on modding my case, and if something goes wrong, I'd like to be able to replace it if necessary.