Author Topic: The Living Soldering Thread  (Read 1855710 times)

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Offline mkawa

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #950 on: Sat, 24 August 2013, 08:51:36 »
BTW, does anyone in the MN area have a hakko 888 I could borrow for a day or two so I could try it out before buying? :)

Rarar: I will be in mpls is a week and I will have a 888D.  PM me if you're interested in trying it.  :D
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Offline tricheboars

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #951 on: Mon, 26 August 2013, 16:37:15 »
so.... i got a Edsyn Deluxe Soldapullt and it is great. i love it. this is the one i got:
 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0019V5HRA/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

but i am seriously damaging the plastic tip of the soldapullt when i desolder. it is melted. it still works great but i am thinking i want to get a metal tip for it rather than plastic.  anyone upgraded their edsyn before and want to enlighten me? which tip did you get and why?

also i am looking to get a smaller tip for my hakko 888 for LEDs. i find the stock tip to be perfect for almost everything but LEDs. what size do y'all recommend and links are always appreciated. especailly amazon ones.  :p

also i want to reiterate that kester 44 is the jam. it is just fantastic solder.
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Offline damorgue

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #952 on: Tue, 27 August 2013, 05:09:11 »
Anyone know of a good source of eutectic solder in EU? I am running out and am unable to find any for a reasonable price. Most stores appear to have decreased or completely removed theirs election of solders with led. I don't have to comply to ROHS, just looking for some plain 63/37.

Edit: With EU, I just meant reasonably cheap to ship to Sweden. EU also means less hassle with customs fees.
« Last Edit: Tue, 27 August 2013, 05:10:43 by damorgue »

Offline mkawa

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #953 on: Tue, 27 August 2013, 05:13:12 »
if someone sends you say a lb of NOS kester 44 from the US, are the rohs EU police going to put you under lead arrest? ;)

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Offline damorgue

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #954 on: Tue, 27 August 2013, 05:19:56 »
I would have tried buying it from Ebay already if it weren't for the shipping fees which cost roughly the same as the item. That and the possibility that the customs fee is larger than normal. It is still about half the price of the only source I have found locally, EVEN WITH CROSS-POND SHIPPING AND 25% CUSTOMS FEE TAKEN INTO ACCOUNT. I find this unreasonable- All my hopes currently go to Germany as they usually keep their **** together.

Grrr, I should have bought bulk last time mumble muble /grudge

Offline vun

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #955 on: Tue, 27 August 2013, 06:01:47 »
I would have tried buying it from Ebay already if it weren't for the shipping fees which cost roughly the same as the item. That and the possibility that the customs fee is larger than normal. It is still about half the price of the only source I have found locally, EVEN WITH CROSS-POND SHIPPING AND 25% CUSTOMS FEE TAKEN INTO ACCOUNT. I find this unreasonable- All my hopes currently go to Germany as they usually keep their **** together.

Grrr, I should have bought bulk last time mumble muble /grudge

There are some sources in Norway that have 63/37, shipping to Sweden probably isn't a problem, although I don't really know.
So far I've seen 63/37 here and here.

Offline HoffmanMyster

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #956 on: Thu, 29 August 2013, 02:32:03 »
Holy crap you guys.  Hakko 808 desoldering gun has changed my life.  Seriously, this thing is absolutely amazing...desolder pads in literally 2 seconds, super clean and smooth.  Wow.  I'm so happy right now.

Offline PointyFox

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #957 on: Thu, 29 August 2013, 02:43:15 »
Holy crap you guys.  Hakko 808 desoldering gun has changed my life.  Seriously, this thing is absolutely amazing...desolder pads in literally 2 seconds, super clean and smooth.  Wow.  I'm so happy right now.

Same, though I ran out of things to desolder. :c

Offline TheSoulhunter

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #958 on: Thu, 29 August 2013, 06:23:43 »
Holy crap you guys.  Hakko 808 desoldering gun has changed my life.  Seriously, this thing is absolutely amazing...desolder pads in literally 2 seconds, super clean and smooth.  Wow.  I'm so happy right now.

Same, though I ran out of things to desolder. :c

Offer desolder service to get back what ya paid for the Hakko...

Offline Photoelectric

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #959 on: Thu, 29 August 2013, 22:00:22 »
Or you can rent those out :D
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Offline HoffmanMyster

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #960 on: Fri, 30 August 2013, 02:08:58 »
Or you can rent those out :D

Rent out the 808?  I'd consider that...

Offline Photoelectric

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #961 on: Fri, 30 August 2013, 09:34:30 »
Yeah, the desoldering part is a major inconvenience when it comes to copper-reinforced through-holes and tiny LED hole sizes, so Im sure those fancy desoldering guns would be awesome.
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Offline Noko

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #962 on: Fri, 30 August 2013, 20:15:19 »
Does anyone know anything about the Yihua 937D? 
I was trying to get the 936 from Hobbyking but the shipping+customs fees to Canada would be at least 3 times more than it costs :/
So I found this for sale from Canada on Ebay:
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Digital-Soldering-Station-937D-with-Cel-Feh-Switch-6-Iron-Tip-More-SMD-50W-/121144589108?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item1c34c7bb34

Would this be a worthwhile purchase?
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Offline argyakrivos

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #963 on: Fri, 06 September 2013, 09:50:28 »
Hey guys, I'm looking to buy a soldering gun / station for my phantom keyboard. I know that almost everyone suggests Weller WLC100, but it is not as easy to find in the UK.

I just found this one: DURATOOL 1296771 Soldering Station + some goodies.

What are your thoughts on this one? Is it a good alternative to Weller WLC100? They look quite similar to me in terms of specs, but since this is my first buy I thought I should ask your opinion.

Offline jdcarpe

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #964 on: Fri, 06 September 2013, 10:20:37 »
Hey guys, I'm looking to buy a soldering gun / station for my phantom keyboard. I know that almost everyone suggests Weller WLC100, but it is not as easy to find in the UK.

I just found this one: DURATOOL 1296771 Soldering Station + some goodies.

What are your thoughts on this one? Is it a good alternative to Weller WLC100? They look quite similar to me in terms of specs, but since this is my first buy I thought I should ask your opinion.


Not many people actually recommend the Weller WLC-100. The Weller WES(D)-51 is a nice tool, and for the people who already own a WLC-100 that is fine - I'm not knocking your selection, but I wouldn't recommend it for someone looking to purchase a new station.

I know after shipping and VAT, this will be more expensive, but I would recommend this Hakko FX-888D, which is about the same price.

Or you could look for a Yihua 936 from China, like this one.

Maybe you can find a used Hakko 936 somewhere near you? Also, Aoyue 936/937 are worth checking into.
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Offline argyakrivos

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #965 on: Fri, 06 September 2013, 12:28:05 »
Hey guys, I'm looking to buy a soldering gun / station for my phantom keyboard. I know that almost everyone suggests Weller WLC100, but it is not as easy to find in the UK.

I just found this one: DURATOOL 1296771 Soldering Station + some goodies.

What are your thoughts on this one? Is it a good alternative to Weller WLC100? They look quite similar to me in terms of specs, but since this is my first buy I thought I should ask your opinion.


Not many people actually recommend the Weller WLC-100. The Weller WES(D)-51 is a nice tool, and for the people who already own a WLC-100 that is fine - I'm not knocking your selection, but I wouldn't recommend it for someone looking to purchase a new station.

I know after shipping and VAT, this will be more expensive, but I would recommend this Hakko FX-888D, which is about the same price.

Or you could look for a Yihua 936 from China, like this one.

Maybe you can find a used Hakko 936 somewhere near you? Also, Aoyue 936/937 are worth checking into.

To get Hakko here I will have to pay almost double the price. I couldn't find any Hakko in the UK (new or used) in a reasonable price.

I did find Aoyue 397+ for about £47.5. Should I go for this? or the Yihua from China? It should be around the same price.

Offline SeriouSSpotS

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #966 on: Sat, 07 September 2013, 15:04:53 »
Does the wattage of a soldering iron matter?
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Offline PointyFox

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #967 on: Sat, 07 September 2013, 15:06:38 »
Does the wattage of a soldering iron matter?

The higher the wattage, the better the iron recovers from heat loss.

Offline SeriouSSpotS

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #968 on: Sat, 07 September 2013, 15:12:18 »
I see, thank you
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Offline jonathanyu

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #969 on: Sat, 07 September 2013, 17:07:33 »
Hakko FX888D and FX888, which one will be better? seems the button on the FX888D will break much easier than FX888

Offline mkawa

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #970 on: Sat, 07 September 2013, 17:45:18 »
go with the D. the D is calibratable and has a more accurate temperature regulator. you will not be pushing the buttons enough for their construction to matter.

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Offline jonathanyu

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #971 on: Sat, 07 September 2013, 17:53:39 »
go with the D. the D is calibratable and has a more accurate temperature regulator. you will not be pushing the buttons enough for their construction to matter.
thanks! I will go with the 888D.  :D and it is cheaper than the 888

Offline StrikeEagleCC

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #972 on: Sat, 07 September 2013, 22:00:05 »
If you're looking for tips, Techspray makes a "Plato" line of tips compatible with the Hakko FX-888(D) that I've had great experience with.

http://www.techspray.com/controls/techspray.tds/tds.ashx?id=132 (links to a pdf)

They are available on Mouser in individual pieces.
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Offline jonathanyu

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #973 on: Sun, 08 September 2013, 00:34:01 »
Do you guys like to use point tip or screwdriver tip more? I found that point tip is not really useful in soldering switches

Offline PointyFox

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #974 on: Sun, 08 September 2013, 00:48:53 »
I use chisel tip since it lets me get more contact area on what I'm soldering, though I'd imagine conical would allow me to solder very small things more easily.

Offline jonathanyu

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #975 on: Sun, 08 September 2013, 00:57:10 »
I use chisel tip since it lets me get more contact area on what I'm soldering, though I'd imagine conical would allow me to solder very small things more easily.
if it compare to screwdriver tip, which one heat up the object faster?(switch, diode, something like that)

Offline PointyFox

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #976 on: Sun, 08 September 2013, 00:59:09 »
I use chisel tip since it lets me get more contact area on what I'm soldering, though I'd imagine conical would allow me to solder very small things more easily.
if it compare to screwdriver tip, which one heat up the object faster?(switch, diode, something like that)

The chisel tip..er, screwdriver tip.

Offline StrikeEagleCC

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #977 on: Sun, 08 September 2013, 00:59:48 »
Definitely the chisel (screwdriver). The conical tips are great in theory, but they become a problem for two reasons: 1: they need a large temperature offset due to their low mass; 2: When tinning them, or doing regular work, the solder tends to migrate up the cone, leaving none at the very tip. I haven't encountered anything yet that I couldn't do more easily with a chisel or a bevel. Bevels are useful for doing SMDs with a tight pitch.
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Offline bpiphany

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #978 on: Sun, 08 September 2013, 03:27:07 »
Chisel tips make better contact with the solder pads on the PCB, which heats them up faster. Soldering small stuff is more about adding a small enough amount of solder than anything else. The solder flows where it is supposed to go anyway. Chisel tips also usually have a pretty pointy corner if you want something smaller. I am able to do most tasks with my 2mm chisel tip, but my most used one is a 1.2mm chisel tip. No matter how small the tip is it's always an improvement if it is chisel shaped rather than with a rounded conical shape.

Chisel tips are different though. They should have a sharp straight edge, and flat sides. Like this

not like this


You want to get into that corner as far as possible

Offline mkawa

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #979 on: Sun, 08 September 2013, 07:13:32 »
chisel tips are the bread and butter of soldering. soldering is about heat transfer. heat transfer is about surface area. so in general you want a tip that gives you as much surface area as possible to put in contact with your joint without heating things up that you don't want to heat up, ie, that aren't your joint. the diagram above nails it. you want your tip to make contact with BOTH objects involved in the joint, heat them up above 190C (63/37's melt point) and then feed solder to both surfaces. the flux in the solder will lead the way for the solder to lightly coat the surface of the joint and then isometrically cool into a shiny little bead or coating.

there are two more tips i keep around for special usage: first, the wedge tip that is flat on one side and rounded on the other (basically like a half chisel). these are slightly better for smd wipe soldering than chisels. second, i keep a long pointy tip around when literally nothing else will fit into the space around the joint. but 99% of the tip i have either an 8mm, 16mm, 24mm, or 32mm hakko chisel on (the t18-dxx where xx is the width of the chisel surface).

i don't bother with a hot knife tip because when i need a hot knife i blast an x-acto knife with a butane torch and literally cut things with the hot knife that results.

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Offline MOZ

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #980 on: Sun, 08 September 2013, 07:19:47 »
Staunch supported of the chisel tip here!

Offline TheSoulhunter

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #981 on: Sun, 08 September 2013, 07:24:36 »
Alright I'm thinking of getting a Hakko 888 soldering kit. What tips should I get with it? I'll buy everything from amazon btw.

I use the d24 (2,4 mm chisel) for most trough-hole stuff...
More contact area than the d16 (better heat transfer) but not too big (like the d32).

I also think you should watch some videos, visual learning really is the way to go here!
Anyway, if you are really looking for a quick simple writeup, here is what I do...

- For switch or LED soldering I use a 2,4mm chisel tip
- Also I use leaded rosin core solder with 1mm diameter
- Make sure components sit flush against the PCB and pins sit right
- Set the temperature of the station to 300-350 degree Celsius and wait for heatup
- Make sure your solder tip is clean, if not clean it (repeat that periodically in the process)
- Put the tip in between pad and pin and feed a small amount of solder in the gap between tip an pin for better heat transfer
- Feed solder from the other side into the gap between pin and pad (enough that you get a solid cone shape bonding) and remove tip
- The two steps above should be done fast and finished when the molten solder completely stops smoking (then the flux is used up)
- Inspect the solder spots... You want a shiny uninterrupted cone shape which contacts the whole pad, best use a magnifying glass for that
- If there seems to be something wrong with the spot, desolder -> clean -> redo, or apply some flux (you can get it seperately) and let the spot reflow by heating it up again

Offline mkawa

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Offline mkawa

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #983 on: Sun, 08 September 2013, 07:26:01 »
yep, i only break out the d32 for MONSTER joints. like the 2x12ga wire point to point soldering i've been doing with my welder.

to all the brilliant friends who have left us, and all the students who climb on their shoulders.

Offline TheSoulhunter

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #984 on: Sun, 08 September 2013, 07:32:39 »
also it deserves mentioning again: BUY ONE OF THESE:

http://www.amazon.com/SE-MH1047L-Illuminated-Multipower-Magnifier/dp/B003UCODIA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1378643068&sr=8-1&keywords=magnifying+visor

Got one of these (with interchangeable lenses tho) but switches to something like this:

34558-0

Having the magnifying glass in front of the eyes was kinda irritating.
Like when quickly reaching over to a tool etc... o.O
« Last Edit: Sun, 08 September 2013, 07:34:36 by TheSoulhunter »

Offline mkawa

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #985 on: Sun, 08 September 2013, 08:01:01 »
it's not an either or situation at all. i have the headset and this unit:

http://www.di c k blick.com/products/heavy-duty-magnifier-lamp/?clickTracking=true

with 3x magnification. one of the reasons is that the light on the headset is crap. the 30W CFL in the swingarm unit provides much better light, even if i switch out the magnifier that i'm looking through to the head-mounted unit.

there are also versions of this magnifier that are LED lit (90+ 3.5v non-smt white leds.). this can be nice because the LEDs will never need to be replaced. the CFL bulb will, eventually.

yes, blick art is actually named ****blick. it's the most hilarious human comedy. first of all, that's the founder's name. if that weren't bad enough, he named his gigantic chain of art stores after himself. i suspect no marketing experts were around when he decided to do this...
« Last Edit: Sun, 08 September 2013, 08:02:48 by mkawa »

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Offline damorgue

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #986 on: Sun, 08 September 2013, 08:20:20 »
there are two more tips i keep around for special usage: first, the wedge tip that is flat on one side and rounded on the other (basically like a half chisel). these are slightly better for smd wipe soldering than chisels. second, i keep a long pointy tip around when literally nothing else will fit into the space around the joint. but 99% of the tip i have either an 8mm, 16mm, 24mm, or 32mm hakko chisel on (the t18-dxx where xx is the width of the chisel surface).

Just in case anyone reads that in the future and are confused, he meant 0.8mm; 1.6mm; 2.4mm and 3.2mm.

Offline mkawa

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #987 on: Sun, 08 September 2013, 08:23:51 »
yes, sorry, 0630 brain fart.

those would be GIGANTIC chisels.

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Offline StrikeEagleCC

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #988 on: Sun, 08 September 2013, 08:30:26 »
those would be GIGANTIC chisels.


Ha. That's what I was thinking when I read that post, but figured if anyone accidentally bought (or even found) a chisel that big, it would be worth the story.
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Offline vun

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #989 on: Sun, 08 September 2013, 09:03:45 »
there are two more tips i keep around for special usage: first, the wedge tip that is flat on one side and rounded on the other (basically like a half chisel). these are slightly better for smd wipe soldering than chisels. second, i keep a long pointy tip around when literally nothing else will fit into the space around the joint. but 99% of the tip i have either an 8mm, 16mm, 24mm, or 32mm hakko chisel on (the t18-dxx where xx is the width of the chisel surface).

Just in case anyone reads that in the future and are confused, he meant 0.8mm; 1.6mm; 2.4mm and 3.2mm.


My mental image of kawa wielding a 32mm soldering tip like a sword is now ruined :(

Offline damorgue

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #990 on: Sun, 08 September 2013, 09:28:48 »
there are two more tips i keep around for special usage: first, the wedge tip that is flat on one side and rounded on the other (basically like a half chisel). these are slightly better for smd wipe soldering than chisels. second, i keep a long pointy tip around when literally nothing else will fit into the space around the joint. but 99% of the tip i have either an 8mm, 16mm, 24mm, or 32mm hakko chisel on (the t18-dxx where xx is the width of the chisel surface).

Just in case anyone reads that in the future and are confused, he meant 0.8mm; 1.6mm; 2.4mm and 3.2mm.


My mental image of kawa wielding a 32mm soldering tip like a sword is now ruined :(

Don't worry, he is about to w(i)eld using a large sword made of ARCS. Who needs wimpy hot metal...

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Offline mkawa

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #991 on: Sun, 08 September 2013, 09:33:01 »
if it helps any, the welder cathode and anode at 32mm diameter copper chromium so i'm still going to do that, just at 1100C and not 350C ;)

i would take a picture but i can't find them (seriously) on my bench right now

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Offline JPG

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #992 on: Sun, 08 September 2013, 10:33:53 »
if it helps any, the welder cathode and anode at 32mm diameter copper chromium so i'm still going to do that, just at 1100C and not 350C ;)

i would take a picture but i can't find them (seriously) on my bench right now

Yea they must be just TOO BIG for you to find them  :p
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Offline vun

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #993 on: Sun, 08 September 2013, 10:40:04 »
I retract my previous statement, kawa is still wields tools of madness, order is restored.

Offline kaiserreich

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #994 on: Sun, 08 September 2013, 10:53:15 »
How do you guys clean boards with white soldermask?

I friggin hate these things. First A87 ps2avr, and now the Phantom is using white solder mask.
The flux gets everywhere and becomes so obvious, and it is a pain to clean with just 99% IPA and a lint free cloth.

Are there any other better methods to clean residual flux off the board?

Offline TheSoulhunter

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #995 on: Sun, 08 September 2013, 10:57:41 »
More IPA and a nail brush :D
Rinse, Brush, Rinse, Brush, Rinse, Brush...

Offline jonathanyu

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #996 on: Sun, 08 September 2013, 11:06:06 »
Chisel tips make better contact with the solder pads on the PCB, which heats them up faster. Soldering small stuff is more about adding a small enough amount of solder than anything else. The solder flows where it is supposed to go anyway. Chisel tips also usually have a pretty pointy corner if you want something smaller. I am able to do most tasks with my 2mm chisel tip, but my most used one is a 1.2mm chisel tip. No matter how small the tip is it's always an improvement if it is chisel shaped rather than with a rounded conical shape.

Chisel tips are different though. They should have a sharp straight edge, and flat sides. Like this
(Attachment Link)
not like this
(Attachment Link)

You want to get into that corner as far as possible
(Attachment Link)

why not the second one?

Offline mkawa

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #997 on: Sun, 08 September 2013, 11:15:36 »
i use a branded flux remover. it's either made by mg chem or chemtronics, but it's frickin effective. it's basically every organic solvent at once. they skip the solvents that will destroy the pcb itself, but that's it.

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Offline domoaligato

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #998 on: Sun, 08 September 2013, 11:30:33 »
Chisel tips make better contact with the solder pads on the PCB, which heats them up faster. Soldering small stuff is more about adding a small enough amount of solder than anything else. The solder flows where it is supposed to go anyway. Chisel tips also usually have a pretty pointy corner if you want something smaller. I am able to do most tasks with my 2mm chisel tip, but my most used one is a 1.2mm chisel tip. No matter how small the tip is it's always an improvement if it is chisel shaped rather than with a rounded conical shape.

Chisel tips are different though. They should have a sharp straight edge, and flat sides. Like this
(Attachment Link)
not like this
(Attachment Link)

You want to get into that corner as far as possible
(Attachment Link)

why not the second one?

because that tip has a flat edged tip and it can not make as much contact as the first.

Offline MOZ

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #999 on: Sun, 08 September 2013, 11:49:33 »
I use petrol and find it cleans much better than 99% IPA.