Author Topic: The Living Soldering Thread  (Read 1855660 times)

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Offline Photekq

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1300 on: Thu, 10 October 2013, 12:05:31 »
The below image is DEFINITELY NSFL - TECH GORE
More
Yeah.. as you can see it's now a 10/10 on the ****ed-o-meter.

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Offline MKULTRA

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1301 on: Thu, 10 October 2013, 12:45:10 »
The below image is DEFINITELY NSFL - TECH GORE
More
Yeah.. as you can see it's now a 10/10 on the ****ed-o-meter.
Show Image

Is there any fixing that...?

Offline Photekq

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1302 on: Thu, 10 October 2013, 12:46:54 »
The below image is DEFINITELY NSFL - TECH GORE
More
Yeah.. as you can see it's now a 10/10 on the ****ed-o-meter.
Show Image

Is there any fixing that...?
Doesn't matter that the pad is screwed. I can direct wire the switch easily, so that's no biggie.

The problem is getting the switch out..
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Offline mkawa

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1303 on: Thu, 10 October 2013, 12:47:29 »
ouch, that's nasty. gentle scrap off the mask over the copper trace (you didn't get through it with your iron, so it's thick, so put some effort into it, but be careful not to cut the trace itself), and then wire something 26ga to it, either hookup wire or magnet wire. that's the only way you're going to recover an electrical connection to that trace.

i'll have to read the backlog in the thread to see how you did that, but ouch.

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Offline mkawa

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1304 on: Thu, 10 October 2013, 12:48:39 »
oh you need to get a switch out?

hot air gun, vise and pliers. pull that sucker out. it'll destroy the switch, but at this point i don't think you want to reuse that switch.

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Offline damorgue

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1305 on: Thu, 10 October 2013, 13:40:45 »
I am growing somewhat disappointed by the Yihua 936. The tempeature of the tip varies to much and does not follow the dial very well at all. There is a large delta T between what the unit measures and the tip as well as an immense lag time. The unit stops heating long before the tip reaches correct temperature.

What bugs me is that Hakko's tip is partly to blame as it appears to have bad thermal contact with the heating element, bad conductance through the tip to get it to a homogenous temperature and low heat capacity.

I am contemplating getting a calibrated fixed temperature iron or an expensive real Hakko. I wonder how much better they can truly be. Does anyone have at least two of the three mentioned choices and could give me some comparison?

Offline jdcarpe

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1306 on: Thu, 10 October 2013, 14:19:24 »
I am growing somewhat disappointed by the Yihua 936. The tempeature of the tip varies to much and does not follow the dial very well at all. There is a large delta T between what the unit measures and the tip as well as an immense lag time. The unit stops heating long before the tip reaches correct temperature.

What bugs me is that Hakko's tip is partly to blame as it appears to have bad thermal contact with the heating element, bad conductance through the tip to get it to a homogenous temperature and low heat capacity.

I am contemplating getting a calibrated fixed temperature iron or an expensive real Hakko. I wonder how much better they can truly be. Does anyone have at least two of the three mentioned choices and could give me some comparison?

I have a Yihua 936 and a Hakko FX-888D (and also a Hakko 936, but I've never used it). Long story short, the Hakko suffers from none of the problems you describe with the Yihua. The Yihua is definitely a cheap station, with inherent flaws, but I think it's better than a simple pencil iron from Radio Shack. Maybe I was a little overconfident in recommending it as an entry level station. But I have used it to solder a couple keyboards, with no ill effects. If you can afford it, definitely buy a Hakko FX-888D. It will never let you down.
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Offline Photekq

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1307 on: Thu, 10 October 2013, 14:31:36 »
Maybe.. JUST MAYBE.. this explains why it wouldn't melt. I have no clue how the hell this happened... :/



Anywhere I can get a replacement, or will I have to buy a new iron? :(
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Offline damorgue

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1308 on: Thu, 10 October 2013, 14:32:17 »
I am actually uncertain if I even prefer the Yihua over my fixed wattage iron. It might be that I am used to it, but it has a larger heat capacity so I don't have to wait to reheat, no cycling between temperatures far apart, and it also appears to be able to heat the very tip. Me regulating the temperature manually by pulling the plug of the fixed wattage appears to maintain a more useful temperature range than the Yihua manages. I am going to have to test the other unit, which I repaired, to see if it is just as bad.

I don't know quite what to expect, they were cheap as hell but I just don't seem to like them I guess.

Offline damorgue

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1309 on: Thu, 10 October 2013, 14:37:45 »
if it is any consolation, I can tell you how that likely happened Photekq.

When you fasten the screw you see there with the metal barrel, the PCB inside has to slide into a slot in the ceramic part. If it doesn't, you will press the ceramic part against the edge of the PCB a few mm earlier than it should. If you keep screwing it, the ceramic will be pressed and eventually buckle and crack.

Offline mkawa

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1310 on: Thu, 10 October 2013, 15:32:02 »
broken heater. another danger of the yihua. cheap ceramic breaks

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Offline Photekq

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1311 on: Thu, 10 October 2013, 15:33:04 »
if it is any consolation, I can tell you how that likely happened Photekq.

When you fasten the screw you see there with the metal barrel, the PCB inside has to slide into a slot in the ceramic part. If it doesn't, you will press the ceramic part against the edge of the PCB a few mm earlier than it should. If you keep screwing it, the ceramic will be pressed and eventually buckle and crack.
Well that sucks.. Seems that replacements aren't too cheap either. I'd probably need a working soldering iron to install them too.

Considering a Hakko right now..
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Offline dragonxx21

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1312 on: Thu, 10 October 2013, 15:36:19 »
After seeing all of the stuff happening with Yihuas, I think I'll wait for the cl1481.
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Offline damorgue

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1313 on: Thu, 10 October 2013, 15:54:35 »

You can actually see it in the image I posted. The PCB fits into a slot in the ceramic. If the PCB doesn't enter the slit, the ceramic won't go as far in as it should.

Offline mkawa

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1314 on: Thu, 10 October 2013, 15:56:54 »
if it is any consolation, I can tell you how that likely happened Photekq.

When you fasten the screw you see there with the metal barrel, the PCB inside has to slide into a slot in the ceramic part. If it doesn't, you will press the ceramic part against the edge of the PCB a few mm earlier than it should. If you keep screwing it, the ceramic will be pressed and eventually buckle and crack.
Well that sucks.. Seems that replacements aren't too cheap either. I'd probably need a working soldering iron to install them too.

Considering a Hakko right now..
at your level of expertise, photekq, i think a hakko 888d would be a good choice. the trick with the 888d is that it's pretty high power and it's easy to burn stuff up. one of the goals of the cl1841 project is to make it very easy to make good joints (and bad joints, but that's how you learn) but very hard to destroy things via overheating, etc. i want to make a fail-_soft_ platform for people to work with. it's much better to make 100 bad joints that you can reflow non-destructively than to destroy a single pad and then have to work around that.

that said, the cl1841 package can be made available quite soon. basically, i realized that i'm a horrible guinea pig for figuring out how effective it will be. i have a loaner that i've made available to photoelectric for the "rescue the destroyed LZGH project". if that goes well, i can either run a gb at cost + a small percentage (i really really want to sell them at cost if at all possible) or buy a small stock and just try to keep costs down so that it comes in appropriately under an 888D.

the founder of edsyn really wanted to serve the hobbyist community and designed some fantastic high quality tools for doing so that i really want to take advantage of, but from a profit-making standpoint their higher-margin product (which looking closely at i'm slowly realizing beats the crap out of equivalent hakko hardware) has to take precedence right now, so i'm purposely not pushing too hard on them right now. they're a fantastic resource for us, though and I really hope to provide some fantastic edsyn based kits as soon as will be convenient for them.

i will point out though that the exposed ceramic element is something that is a hakko trademark and NOT a yihua trademark. in fact, my 888d heater is starting to show its age with reduced heat transfer than when i first bought it (i use the crap out of it obviously). this is just one place you can see where edsyn is extremely intelligently designed. instead of putting a smaller exposed heater (exposed heater -> better heat xfer) in their baseline unit, they use a larger, more powerfuly completely sheathed heater which will last substantially longer. all edsyn products are all also 100% made in the USA 15 minutes from me, so service is trivial. get it back to me, i'll bring it in, and your product will be fixed by a team of professionals that are awesome, friendly and extremely capable. no screwing around.

ps, i've been looking at a lot of this stuff because my Edsyn contact (who is lurking and has popped his head out a couple times ;) has been trying to get me into one of his upcoming extremely nice looking but very expensive high quality do-everything stations. i think he's starting to win. :X look out for a possible hakko selloff (ANOTHER ONE) from me in the next few months ;)

for our part, i'm getting him hooked on keyboards. i'm just going to declare victory on that one. it's still in progress, but yah, it'll happen.

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Offline damorgue

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1315 on: Thu, 10 October 2013, 16:04:03 »
I am inclined to open up my fixed wattage one and see how they made it inside.

I am also thinking of adding some high-temp TIM on the Yihua between the ceramic heater and tip.

Offline mkawa

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1316 on: Thu, 10 October 2013, 16:18:49 »
AGHHHH i keep trying to post this but latency is killing it

1) just toss the yihua heaters. they are crap. i BELIEVE that true hakko heaters are all cast solid ceramic with the TC embedded. this is the only way to get an accurate temp out of a heater. they also use AFAIK quick disconnects on the heater wires.

2) the 888D is a game changer, but mostly because it is the ONLY hakko product to be made in china and hence brings the price of precise regulation down. (well the 936 was too, i think, near the end of production and we saw what happened with that). japanese hakko products are clearly higher quality. i'm already seeing reduced junction temps on my 888D with 3 months of hard usage max.

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Offline Photekq

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1317 on: Thu, 10 October 2013, 16:27:38 »
i'll see if i can get the money together to buy an 888d. i hope that i'll be soldering a lot in the future, so i think it will be a wise investment.

thank you for your input kawa. you always put things very well and i know that i can trust your advice.
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Offline jdcarpe

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1318 on: Thu, 10 October 2013, 16:30:58 »
1) just toss the yihua heaters. they are crap. i BELIEVE that true hakko heaters are all cast solid ceramic with the TC embedded. this is the only way to get an accurate temp out of a heater. they also use AFAIK quick disconnects on the heater wires.

You think we could replace the Yihua heaters with Hakko heaters? I see some Hakko elements for like $4 on eBay. Most likely fakes?
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Offline damorgue

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1319 on: Thu, 10 October 2013, 16:37:40 »
The connector appears to be the same except for one being male to female and the other being female to male. I might try a spare hakko iron and replace the plug on it. What remains to be checked is if they are calibrated for the same type of thermocouple and element.

Offline mkawa

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1320 on: Thu, 10 October 2013, 16:43:05 »
1) just toss the yihua heaters. they are crap. i BELIEVE that true hakko heaters are all cast solid ceramic with the TC embedded. this is the only way to get an accurate temp out of a heater. they also use AFAIK quick disconnects on the heater wires.

You think we could replace the Yihua heaters with Hakko heaters? I see some Hakko elements for like $4 on eBay. Most likely fakes?

yes, fakes. the heater is the most expensive part of an iron. it uses exotic ceramics, which is why yihua cheaped out by casting a shell and not a solid.

yes, heaters are basically interchangeable as long as they fit. the thermocouple inside a regulated heater might NOT be interchangeable, but the heater itself is just a big high wattage resistor. you throw a certain amount of DC across it (or AC, it really doesn't matter) and it heats up. just how much power you sink into and out of it depends on voltage, heater construction, etc. but that's the basic idea.


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Offline mkawa

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1321 on: Thu, 10 October 2013, 16:45:57 »
The connector appears to be the same except for one being male to female and the other being female to male. I might try a spare hakko iron and replace the plug on it. What remains to be checked is if they are calibrated for the same type of thermocouple and element.
they are almost certainly not. the tc and tc amp in the yihua are almost certainly total crap. the ad595adz i bought for my 8 endpoint type k thermometer (muxed to a single amp) was 40$. 40$ for a single tc amp. the reason, of course is accuracy. on this chip, the trim resistor is lasercut to extremely high accuracy. type J,K, whatever t/c standards are a) highly non-linear and b) depend on a perfect o2 free 0 resistance weld across the two dissimilar metals that make up the TC.


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Offline mkawa

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1322 on: Thu, 10 October 2013, 16:49:45 »
here's how to make an accurate TC.

1) take 1100C melt point pure silver solder, unfluxed

2) take lightly pressurized shielding gas (noble gases are typically used, as you will be heating this gas to 1100C).

3) deoxidize the two metal endpoints to be welded. they must be 100% compositionally unoxidized alloy.

4) while exhausting shielding gas over the joint to be welded, weld the two endpoints together as near to instantaneously as possible.

this is why i built a 24f 20v capacitive discharge welder.

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Offline dragonxx21

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1323 on: Fri, 11 October 2013, 19:04:43 »
Any idea when you'll be able to run the gb for the cl1841 package?
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Offline mkawa

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1324 on: Sat, 12 October 2013, 19:44:55 »
even better: how would you like to be a guinea pig? :D PM me if that sounds interesting to you.

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Offline damorgue

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1325 on: Sun, 13 October 2013, 03:03:35 »
I just desoldered a G800-8200LPDUS with the Yihua and it worked OK. I had forgotten that it is NKRO and has diodes in every switch, so 4 joints per switch and about 120 of them. I have grown slightly more accustomed to the Yihua by now. I don't know which type of solder they used, I assume it was lead free and a bit higher melting point than leaded, but I had to have it set to 350C to even melt the joints, which is higher than anything they likely used.

Pro's and Con's of the Yihua over my old fixed wattage:
+ Smaller iron and handle. It is easier to move around, reach and feels more precise thana bulky solder iron.
+ It is rated 60W, supposedly faster than the other since it was 30W. I am not entirely certain that the Yihua which is rated 60W is faster to heat up the tip since it starts to cycle when the heater reaches the correct temp but far earlier than when the tip has reached it. The fixed wattage was 30W to not make it too hot since it is fixed.
+ Cheap as hell, around 15USD if you wait on the page of hobbyking for a while in order to be given a discount. I think my fixed wattage was about the same price.
+ Large and easy to find replacement tips in all kinds of shapes and sizes

- Very bad thermal connection between the thermocouple junction in the heating element to the tip. The tip itself appears to not conduct heat very well either. The unit starts cycling when the element has reached its target temperature but this is far earlier than the tip. There is also a quite a large delta T between the junction and the tip. This is my main gripe with the Yihua. Even if you wait for 15minutes at 200C, it can't melt 185C solder.
- Bad build quality, I wouldn't expect it to last long, and one arrived broken. There appears to be differences between units.
- Large separate unit. Although the iron is smaller, there is a bulky separate unit instead. It is sort of obvious, and the drawback of a smaller iron if you care about mobility.
- Solder iron holder is made out of plastic which is very wobbly and has a tendency to smolder a little since it touches the hot metal parts.

Conclusion: Check it and repair if needed, replace the stand and set it 100C higher than you want it to be and you have fixed the major problems.

Offline mkawa

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1326 on: Sun, 13 October 2013, 10:59:12 »
damorgue, are you guys on 230v?

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Offline damorgue

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1327 on: Sun, 13 October 2013, 12:20:31 »
Yup, and I got the EU plug model. HK offers them with different plugs and from different warehouses. All in all they have 7 slightly differetn variants of it on their site.

How so?

Offline JPG

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1328 on: Sun, 13 October 2013, 12:24:34 »
Yesterday I went to my local electronic supplier. Needed some flux, got out with lot of things, like a multimeter, tweezers, helping hands, stuff to practice on, etc.

At least, I only need to get my solder and soldapult from kawa and I'll be good to start soldering some stuff!
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Offline mkawa

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1329 on: Sun, 13 October 2013, 12:26:08 »
NNOOOOOOO, HELPING HANDS ARE THE DEVIL.

you will quickly learn that helping hands are completely misnamed. they do exactly the opposite of help.

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Offline JPG

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1330 on: Sun, 13 October 2013, 12:26:53 »
NNOOOOOOO, HELPING HANDS ARE THE DEVIL.

you will quickly learn that helping hands are completely misnamed. they do exactly the opposite of help.

They were chap, wanted to try them.
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Offline mkawa

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1331 on: Sun, 13 October 2013, 12:27:27 »
Yup, and I got the EU plug model. HK offers them with different plugs and from different warehouses. All in all they have 7 slightly differetn variants of it on their site.

How so?
the cl is 115v. i had completely forgotten about this. it's simple and possible to engineer it for 230v, but i would have to do the conversion myself. blegh!

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Offline dragonxx21

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1332 on: Sun, 13 October 2013, 12:28:14 »
What's bad about helping hands?
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Offline MOZ

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1333 on: Sun, 13 October 2013, 12:31:37 »
What's bad about helping hands?

The break quickly and they don't hold up the piece steady when you work on on them.

Offline damorgue

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1334 on: Sun, 13 October 2013, 12:32:47 »
Yup, and I got the EU plug model. HK offers them with different plugs and from different warehouses. All in all they have 7 slightly differetn variants of it on their site.

How so?
the cl is 115v. i had completely forgotten about this. it's simple and possible to engineer it for 230v, but i would have to do the conversion myself. blegh!

I think almost the entire EU uses 230V unfortunately. Are you certain they aren't made to be compliant with both?

Offline mkawa

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1335 on: Sun, 13 October 2013, 13:14:56 »
relatively sure. there isn't enough room in the pencil for a fancy transformer, and is the heater is AC it won't tolerate that wide a voltage range. i will look into this though, as that is a major issue.

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Offline Photoelectric

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1336 on: Fri, 18 October 2013, 22:39:45 »
I am officially a Soldapullt convert!  It's apparent that my old Soldapullt was sorely lacking in lubrication, as the difference between it and a new fully-lubricated one is night and day.  Never using the Radioshack iron again!

Desoldering LEDs with a Soldapullt and a fine-tip iron was a breeze--surprised myself by finishing it in one relatively quick sitting.

Just after using Soldapullt on all the LED pins:


After propping LEDs with a skinny screwdriver and using a soldering iron to heat pin tips (was a pretty quick process):


All out!



Also discovered that there's a lot of lube in the switches.  Or rather something that looks like grease?  Lots of white-ish residue, as well as some shine going all the way up the stems, visible over the top housing.  Going to wash all the stems and try to re-lube.  Not sure how to clean the housings.

Also, thumbs up to the Edsyn soldering iron prototype!  It's a great little tool :)

Edit: the words "too much lube" are pretty accurate...  The switches are practically drenched in it.  I wonder what it is, maybe Superlube. 
« Last Edit: Sat, 19 October 2013, 10:20:17 by Photoelectric »
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Offline AGmurdercore

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1337 on: Mon, 21 October 2013, 04:57:51 »
I got a broken BW ultimate and i wanted to investigate what is wrong with it and how to fix it. From what i learned so far all i can say is that desoldering LEDs is a f***ing pain in the ass, really. Desoldering a switch is a piss easy thing tho, even for a guy like me with minimal exp :)
What the hell am I even doing

Offline Melvang

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1338 on: Tue, 22 October 2013, 09:18:08 »
On the helping hands subject I can say they are pretty crap.  The only thing they have actually helped on was soldering wires to spring steel to help facilitate sleeving them (9 feet long), and soldering wires to plugs and receptacles.  Other than that it hasn't been used.
OG Kishsaver, Razer Orbweaver clears and reds with blue LEDs, and Razer Naga Epic.   "Great minds crawl in the same sewer"  Uncle Rich

Offline HPE1000

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1339 on: Tue, 22 October 2013, 23:52:39 »
So, I am swapping springs on one of my keyboard and need a soldering iron..

Should I buy the yihua 936? And do I NEED any replacement tips for desoldering and soldering with it?


Offline jdcarpe

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1340 on: Wed, 23 October 2013, 00:55:16 »
So, I am swapping springs on one of my keyboard and need a soldering iron..

Should I buy the yihua 936? And do I NEED any replacement tips for desoldering and soldering with it?



That depends. What is your budget? If you can afford it, the $90 Hakko FX-888D is a much better setup for a beginner. And you won't need any replacement tips to get started.

If your budget is less than $50, get the Yihua 936. It can get the job done, and is a good deal better than just a fixed wattage soldering pencil from Radio Shack.

With the Yihua, you definitely want to get a replacement tip before you even attempt to use it. Get a 900M-T-1.6D tip from eBay.
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Offline HPE1000

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1341 on: Wed, 23 October 2013, 08:12:37 »
So, I am swapping springs on one of my keyboard and need a soldering iron..

Should I buy the yihua 936? And do I NEED any replacement tips for desoldering and soldering with it?



That depends. What is your budget? If you can afford it, the $90 Hakko FX-888D is a much better setup for a beginner. And you won't need any replacement tips to get started.

If your budget is less than $50, get the Yihua 936. It can get the job done, and is a good deal better than just a fixed wattage soldering pencil from Radio Shack.

With the Yihua, you definitely want to get a replacement tip before you even attempt to use it. Get a 900M-T-1.6D tip from eBay.

At this point in time I would like to keep the budget low, if I like soldering and everything I will invest further :D

Thanks  :thumb:

Yihua it is

Offline Photekq

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1342 on: Wed, 23 October 2013, 08:14:05 »
Just about to order an 888D and a few other things. Can't wait! :thumb:

I think I'll be building a table for my soldering stuff.. If I decide to then expect a worklog ;D
« Last Edit: Wed, 23 October 2013, 08:21:42 by Photekq »
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Offline HPE1000

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1343 on: Wed, 23 October 2013, 08:24:29 »

Offline Photekq

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1344 on: Wed, 23 October 2013, 08:28:52 »
So this tip should be enough for all of my soldering and desoldering needs?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hakko-900M-T-1-6D-Soldering-Iron-Chisel-Tip-Rework-for-936-Aoyue-Atten-US-SELLER-/321178739681?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ac7bea3e1
I personally used a 2.4D (2.4mm diameter instead of 1.6mm), but yes that tip will be great for any kind of keyboard soldering.
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Offline jdcarpe

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1345 on: Wed, 23 October 2013, 08:29:35 »
So this tip should be enough for all of my soldering and desoldering needs?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hakko-900M-T-1-6D-Soldering-Iron-Chisel-Tip-Rework-for-936-Aoyue-Atten-US-SELLER-/321178739681?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ac7bea3e1

Yes, that should do it.

Also, for desoldering on a budget, please get a genuine Soldapullt from Edsyn. I would tell you to order one from mkawa, but he is out-of-pocket for the next few weeks. You can call Edsyn directly and order the DS017. And when mkawa gets back, you'll want an upgrade kit from him. If you want a black housing, you'll want the DS017LS. You can reach Edsyn customer service to place an order at (818) 989-2324. Tell them you are from Geekhack, and who knows, they may give you a little discount or something. :)
KMAC :: LZ-GH :: WASD CODE :: WASD v2 :: GH60 :: Alps64 :: JD45 :: IBM Model M :: IBM 4704 "Pingmaster"

http://jd40.info :: http://jd45.info


in memoriam

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Offline Photekq

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1346 on: Thu, 24 October 2013, 10:15:50 »
I'm looking for some flux & solder wick. Having a hard time finding the brands I've seen mentioned in this thread for sale in the UK. Any suggestions?

Also, 888D has been ordered! Can't wait!
« Last Edit: Thu, 24 October 2013, 11:52:50 by Photekq »
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Offline HoffmanMyster

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1347 on: Thu, 24 October 2013, 20:14:03 »
Also, 888D has been ordered! Can't wait!

Wahoo!  Join the club!   :thumb:  I think you'll like it.

Offline mkawa

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1348 on: Fri, 25 October 2013, 01:56:39 »
i'm kind of here (mostly not) but a single soldapullt order isn't going to kill me. go ahead and PM me if you need one. it's a bit of a burden for edsyn to process tiny orders.

to all the brilliant friends who have left us, and all the students who climb on their shoulders.

Offline Photekq

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1349 on: Fri, 25 October 2013, 12:06:23 »
Also, 888D has been ordered! Can't wait!

Wahoo!  Join the club!   :thumb:  I think you'll like it.
I'm sure I will. Looks like a really nice station.

Managed to find some flux & wick. Also picked up some isopropyl alcohol, lint free wipes, an alcohol dispenser, and a bunch of other stuff.

All I need now is a table.. :rolleyes:
https://kbdarchive.org/
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discord: hi mum#5710