The Living Soldering Thread

[hasu]

how safe is that?

Safe? I don't know, but it works at least
Temperature stability looks like no problem in comparison with my vintage Weller stations. I think it is good enough for my hobby.
Anyway this is poor man's setup, I will go with Japan UNIX, Hakko, Weller, Metcal or PACE if I have much money.

[MOZ]

Cross post:

I am loving the Soldapullt, it is amazing, threw away the Chinese crap I was using. Thanks ming. I also realised why I was initially hesitant on going this route, it was because I thought I would damage the tip fairly easily, but the tip has a much higher MP than what we use and thus there is little fear of melting it with the iron.

[tricheboars]

I wish I had a Flux pen cause I just spilled my bottle of Flux ****ing everywhere.

[tjcaustin]

Thanks for the info guys.  I guess I need to be a touch more specific.  I was looking for insulated wire when I came across this was what I had found.  I am using this with single switch PCB prototypes of my concept but Moz is doing the KiCad work as I can't seem to figure out that damn program.  I do want insulated.  I realize that magnet wire would work and in some of my research I have come across some that says the insulation functions as a flux when heat is applied (this could get interesting if used for a motor winding and it overheats drastically).  But I want to work with standard insulated wire for right now and was wondering if silver coated or even tinned copper wire would work ok, or if there are some particulars I should know when soldering with it.  I will only be ordering a 100' spool at most since I would only be using enough to go between switches.

Oooohhh, I think I understand now.  You're looking at wire that is silver coated and insulated?  I wouldn't imagine that there would be any special considerations there, but I don't have experience with that.  Any particular reason you'd be seeking it out?

Not really seeking it out but I can't seem to find any 28 ga wire in solid core that isn't coated.  I am going to bite the bullet on some when I get some money in my play account but until then salvaged IDE cables are working OK.

I know of a place that does 26g solid core, but not 28.

[Melvang]

Thanks for the info guys.  I guess I need to be a touch more specific.  I was looking for insulated wire when I came across this was what I had found.  I am using this with single switch PCB prototypes of my concept but Moz is doing the KiCad work as I can't seem to figure out that damn program.  I do want insulated.  I realize that magnet wire would work and in some of my research I have come across some that says the insulation functions as a flux when heat is applied (this could get interesting if used for a motor winding and it overheats drastically).  But I want to work with standard insulated wire for right now and was wondering if silver coated or even tinned copper wire would work ok, or if there are some particulars I should know when soldering with it.  I will only be ordering a 100' spool at most since I would only be using enough to go between switches.

Oooohhh, I think I understand now.  You're looking at wire that is silver coated and insulated?  I wouldn't imagine that there would be any special considerations there, but I don't have experience with that.  Any particular reason you'd be seeking it out?

Not really seeking it out but I can't seem to find any 28 ga wire in solid core that isn't coated.  I am going to bite the bullet on some when I get some money in my play account but until then salvaged IDE cables are working OK.

I know of a place that does 26g solid core, but not 28.

I am finding 28 gauge solid core that is insulated but is also either tinned or silver coated.  I would assume this would work OK for a matrix.

[HoffmanMyster]

Thanks for the info guys.  I guess I need to be a touch more specific.  I was looking for insulated wire when I came across this was what I had found.  I am using this with single switch PCB prototypes of my concept but Moz is doing the KiCad work as I can't seem to figure out that damn program.  I do want insulated.  I realize that magnet wire would work and in some of my research I have come across some that says the insulation functions as a flux when heat is applied (this could get interesting if used for a motor winding and it overheats drastically).  But I want to work with standard insulated wire for right now and was wondering if silver coated or even tinned copper wire would work ok, or if there are some particulars I should know when soldering with it.  I will only be ordering a 100' spool at most since I would only be using enough to go between switches.

Oooohhh, I think I understand now.  You're looking at wire that is silver coated and insulated?  I wouldn't imagine that there would be any special considerations there, but I don't have experience with that.  Any particular reason you'd be seeking it out?

Not really seeking it out but I can't seem to find any 28 ga wire in solid core that isn't coated.  I am going to bite the bullet on some when I get some money in my play account but until then salvaged IDE cables are working OK.

I know of a place that does 26g solid core, but not 28.

I am finding 28 gauge solid core that is insulated but is also either tinned or silver coated.  I would assume this would work OK for a matrix.

I can't imagine why it wouldn't work.  It's just an extra conductive thing in there, no reason that should stop it from working.

[swill]

Just for my understanding on this topic. When you hand wire a matrix, you want some kind of insulation. Magnet wire is recommended because it is insulated, but the iron will remove the coating. Also 28 gauge is the suggested gauge to use? Is this the most common recommendation for hand wiring?

[Melvang]

Just for my understanding on this topic. When you hand wire a matrix, you want some kind of insulation. Magnet wire is recommended because it is insulated, but the iron will remove the coating. Also 28 gauge is the suggested gauge to use? Is this the most common recommendation for hand wiring?

I don't think so but it fits some requirements for some other details related to the build that would be related to some modifications I am attempting to make to these.

[swill]

Just for my understanding on this topic. When you hand wire a matrix, you want some kind of insulation. Magnet wire is recommended because it is insulated, but the iron will remove the coating. Also 28 gauge is the suggested gauge to use? Is this the most common recommendation for hand wiring?

I don't think so but it fits some requirements for some other details related to the build that would be related to some modifications I am attempting to make to these.

Oh cool. Thats interesting. Thanks for the link.

[mkawa]

i can't hand wire smaller than 26ga personally. that is _tiny_ wire. even 26ga is annoying for me. i prefer 22ga for hookup wire. sometimes, especially when your landing point is an SMT pad, you have to go 26ga, but i'm most comfortable with 22 or even 18ga if possible. 18ga is super easy to work with and a great general purpose hookup wire. you can run a ton of current through it, it's easy to handle, lots of surface area for soldering. etc.

and yes, the coating on magnet wire will melt and shrink back at the end as you start soldering it. it's sometimes easier to find magnet wire in the size you want than solid core hookup wire. just keep in mind that magnet wire can't handle the temperatures that standard hookup wire can. it's meant to be wrapped around a big ass piece of ferritic iron, so using it as hookup wire is something you need to spend a few minutes making sure you're not subjecting it to too much heat in usage.

[swill]

i can't hand wire smaller than 26ga personally. that is _tiny_ wire. even 26ga is annoying for me. i prefer 22ga for hookup wire. sometimes, especially when your landing point is an SMT pad, you have to go 26ga, but i'm most comfortable with 22 or even 18ga if possible. 18ga is super easy to work with and a great general purpose hookup wire. you can run a ton of current through it, it's easy to handle, lots of surface area for soldering. etc.

and yes, the coating on magnet wire will melt and shrink back at the end as you start soldering it. it's sometimes easier to find magnet wire in the size you want than solid core hookup wire. just keep in mind that magnet wire can't handle the temperatures that standard hookup wire can. it's meant to be wrapped around a big ass piece of ferritic iron, so using it as hookup wire is something you need to spend a few minutes making sure you're not subjecting it to too much heat in usage.

Is it important for some reason to use insulated wire when hand wiring?

I have some uninsulated 20awg (21swg) solid core tinned copper wire that I basically use as a utility wire. Would that work to hand wire a simple matrix?

I have heard of some people using piano wire for hand wiring keyboards and I am sure that is not insulated.

[HoffmanMyster]

i can't hand wire smaller than 26ga personally. that is _tiny_ wire. even 26ga is annoying for me. i prefer 22ga for hookup wire. sometimes, especially when your landing point is an SMT pad, you have to go 26ga, but i'm most comfortable with 22 or even 18ga if possible. 18ga is super easy to work with and a great general purpose hookup wire. you can run a ton of current through it, it's easy to handle, lots of surface area for soldering. etc.

and yes, the coating on magnet wire will melt and shrink back at the end as you start soldering it. it's sometimes easier to find magnet wire in the size you want than solid core hookup wire. just keep in mind that magnet wire can't handle the temperatures that standard hookup wire can. it's meant to be wrapped around a big ass piece of ferritic iron, so using it as hookup wire is something you need to spend a few minutes making sure you're not subjecting it to too much heat in usage.

Is it important for some reason to use insulated wire when hand wiring?

I have some uninsulated 20awg (21swg) solid core tinned copper wire that I basically use as a utility wire. Would that work to hand wire a simple matrix?

I have heard of some people using piano wire for hand wiring keyboards and I am sure that is not insulated.

You can use non-insulated wire, you just have to make sure you don't short anything while you're putting it together or using it.

[Melvang]

Non insulated wire works in general but I don't want to risk it with one of my projects because the plate is actually going to extend past the PCB in the z axis.

[swill]

Thx. Ya I was just piggy backing off your question to clarify my understanding. I am thinking of hand wiring a numpad for fun, so I wanted to get an idea if I could try with what I already have.

[mkawa]

the only situation i would use non-insulated wire in is long straight current buses. real example: say you have like 10 to-220 packages where you want to put pin 2 in parallel so that all the ICs are switched at the same time. in that situation i took some pretty heavy gauge solid core wire (i think it was like 12ga solid core), pulled the insulation off, bent pin 2 up on each package and then soldered my way down the thick wire with a joint at wire and a little bit extra for a mechanical connection. however, immediately after everything was wired up on this circuit i potted the entire assembly with non-acid cure RTV silicone to prevent all that bare metal from shorting on anything.

for hand wiring a keyboard matrix, the most elegant jobs i've seen are the ones where the diode legs are used directly as uninsulated hookup wire. however, you have to protect that wiring somehow, as it's really easy to crush such a nice but delicate wiring job. ron used an extra long press-bent switch plate to raise the board way above surface-level. lowpoly and matt3o have also done really nice jobs using diode wiring, but they both had plastic cases to protect the wiring. if you do plan on using thin uninsulated wire, i would prepare like.. closed-cell antistat foam followed by a hard phenolic layer or something? (like G10/FR4)

[swill]

the only situation i would use non-insulated wire in is long straight current buses. real example: say you have like 10 to-220 packages where you want to put pin 2 in parallel so that all the ICs are switched at the same time. in that situation i took some pretty heavy gauge solid core wire (i think it was like 12ga solid core), pulled the insulation off, bent pin 2 up on each package and then soldered my way down the thick wire with a joint at wire and a little bit extra for a mechanical connection. however, immediately after everything was wired up on this circuit i potted the entire assembly with non-acid cure RTV silicone to prevent all that bare metal from shorting on anything.

for hand wiring a keyboard matrix, the most elegant jobs i've seen are the ones where the diode legs are used directly as uninsulated hookup wire. however, you have to protect that wiring somehow, as it's really easy to crush such a nice but delicate wiring job. ron used an extra long press-bent switch plate to raise the board way above surface-level. lowpoly and matt3o have also done really nice jobs using diode wiring, but they both had plastic cases to protect the wiring. if you do plan on using thin uninsulated wire, i would prepare like.. closed-cell antistat foam followed by a hard phenolic layer or something? (like G10/FR4)

Ya, I am still playing with some different ideas for how I would build the case and make sure the wires don't short.

We will see.  I will have my hands full with all the PCBs I have coming, so it may wait for a while...

[pichu23]

Hey guys, I just got my switches and just waiting for my pcb from sprit.
Anyways just like to ask what type of solder should I use to solder the switches ?
Is this one alright ? http://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-AS16-20-Gram-Solder/dp/B000LFVHK6
The price seems good. Just like to know if it's alright for usage, cause the last time I solder I used some solder from my dad's toolbox. I think it has ran out
Thanks again !

[Photekq]

Hey guys, I just got my switches and just waiting for my pcb from sprit.
Anyways just like to ask what type of solder should I use to solder the switches ?
Is this one alright ? http://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-AS16-20-Gram-Solder/dp/B000LFVHK6
The price seems good. Just like to know if it's alright for usage, cause the last time I solder I used some solder from my dad's toolbox. I think it has ran out
Thanks again !

Send me your address and I'll send you enough kester 44 for a few jobs

[pichu23]

Hey guys, I just got my switches and just waiting for my pcb from sprit.
Anyways just like to ask what type of solder should I use to solder the switches ?
Is this one alright ? http://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-AS16-20-Gram-Solder/dp/B000LFVHK6
The price seems good. Just like to know if it's alright for usage, cause the last time I solder I used some solder from my dad's toolbox. I think it has ran out
Thanks again !

Send me your address and I'll send you enough kester 44 for a few jobs

Oh thanks dude.
Inc pm. 

[MOZ]

I don't know if there is a guide out there or if this is the correct method for soldering LEDs, but here is what I do: When installing LEDs, I have noticed that they tend to fall through the hole sicne nothing keeps them locked into their position. What I do is, have the keyboard facing up, place the LEDs, use a hard surface like a cardboard, flip the keyboard and place it on working desk so all the LED pins stay in the wholes, they do fall off a bit, but not out of the holes, I then use a needlenose plier or my hands, pull the LED via one leg (Gently, not to tight and the holes are large enough that both the legs are pulled up evenly even when only pulling using one leg). I then solder the other leg not held, let it cool and move to the other LED. After this is done, I then solder the other leg on all the LEDs, following by trimming of the pins.

Comments on technique?

[Melvang]

I don't know if there is a guide out there or if this is the correct method for soldering LEDs, but here is what I do: When installing LEDs, I have noticed that they tend to fall through the hole sicne nothing keeps them locked into their position. What I do is, have the keyboard facing up, place the LEDs, use a hard surface like a cardboard, flip the keyboard and place it on working desk so all the LED pins stay in the wholes, they do fall off a bit, but not out of the holes, I then use a needlenose plier or my hands, pull the LED via one leg (Gently, not to tight and the holes are large enough that both the legs are pulled up evenly even when only pulling using one leg). I then solder the other leg not held, let it cool and move to the other LED. After this is done, I then solder the other leg on all the LEDs, following by trimming of the pins.

Comments on technique?

Sounds good to me.  On my learn to solder kit I used scorch tape and/or bent the legs away from each other so the would stay in place.

[pichu23]

I don't know if there is a guide out there or if this is the correct method for soldering LEDs, but here is what I do: When installing LEDs, I have noticed that they tend to fall through the hole sicne nothing keeps them locked into their position. What I do is, have the keyboard facing up, place the LEDs, use a hard surface like a cardboard, flip the keyboard and place it on working desk so all the LED pins stay in the wholes, they do fall off a bit, but not out of the holes, I then use a needlenose plier or my hands, pull the LED via one leg (Gently, not to tight and the holes are large enough that both the legs are pulled up evenly even when only pulling using one leg). I then solder the other leg not held, let it cool and move to the other LED. After this is done, I then solder the other leg on all the LEDs, following by trimming of the pins.

Comments on technique?

I just bend the legs and solder them then I'll cut them off afterwards 

[ferociousfingerings]

Budget (sub-$50):
Edsyn CL1481 kit (includes tips/tools/soldapullt) - http://www.edsyn.com/index.php?Mode=piw&pn=CL1481-K
NOTE - mkawa will be making a better version of this kit with more robust stuff through the geekhackers store, but it won't be anywhere close to this bargan basement pricing

This has been irritating me for a while... click that link. Not "sub-$50." That clearly says "$90.xx" (and the CL1481 iron by itself shows $59.x...).

Does an acceptable sub-$50 unit even exist?

[MOZ]

Yi-Hua 936 Club!

[mkawa]

Budget (sub-$50):
Edsyn CL1481 kit (includes tips/tools/soldapullt) - http://www.edsyn.com/index.php?Mode=piw&pn=CL1481-K
NOTE - mkawa will be making a better version of this kit with more robust stuff through the geekhackers store, but it won't be anywhere close to this bargan basement pricing

This has been irritating me for a while... click that link. Not "sub-$50." That clearly says "$90.xx" (and the CL1481 iron by itself shows $59.x...).

Does an acceptable sub-$50 unit even exist?

prices went up recently at edsyn. however, i will be running another GB of soldering kits that will bring the price down to below R2 levels again.

this will be more or less the same kit that kmiller uses to churn through board builds. it may seem like a very simple iron (and it is, in a manner of speaking), but it is extremely high quality and a bargain for the price, frankly.

[SeeThruHead]

Can someone recommend me a good de-soldering gun. Need something to speed up the de-soldering process. (Under 120 dollars)

[ferociousfingerings]

Yi-Hua 936 Club!

Ah, that's the one i looked at several times but hesitated over the seemingly far too low price. Currently on backorder at hobbyking... may have to attempt to locate one elsewhere.

Budget (sub-$50):
Edsyn CL1481 kit (includes tips/tools/soldapullt) - http://www.edsyn.com/index.php?Mode=piw&pn=CL1481-K
NOTE - mkawa will be making a better version of this kit with more robust stuff through the geekhackers store, but it won't be anywhere close to this bargan basement pricing

This has been irritating me for a while... click that link. Not "sub-$50." That clearly says "$90.xx" (and the CL1481 iron by itself shows $59.x...).

Does an acceptable sub-$50 unit even exist?

prices went up recently at edsyn. however, i will be running another GB of soldering kits that will bring the price down to below R2 levels again.

this will be more or less the same kit that kmiller uses to churn through board builds. it may seem like a very simple iron (and it is, in a manner of speaking), but it is extremely high quality and a bargain for the price, frankly.

i would certainly prefer one of your/those kits, but i doubt it will be feasible for me anytime soon. If that changes (the biggest 'if' ever), i'll surely try to get in on that.

Meanwhile, i need to locate a feasible solution, even if it's not ideal. Perhaps someday i will be able to own top of the line soldering gear... but today is not that day! And i have no idea when/whether that day will occur.

[JonasDK]

How legit is this?

[Parak]

How legit is this?

Scam.

[exitfire401]

Welp, after going through 2 Radioshack soldering irons in 2 days (opened up the box for the first one and it was used/heating element was burned out, 2nd one blew up on me when I plugged it in) I said **** it and picked up a hakko 888. Figured I might as well since I see a lot more modding in my future anyways.

[exitfire401]

Alright, so soldering took me two seconds to master haha (at least all of my joints look like they should and I'm having no problems with any of the switches) but I'm also practicing de-soldering on my techkeys business card before I take the iron to my Race 2, and I'm having a problem where I can't get all of the solder out of the joint (it circles around the bottom of the switch contact and I can't get it out) Anybody have any suggestions on how to get it out? I'm going to try wicking it out.

[BlueBär]

Alright, so soldering took me two seconds to master haha (at least all of my joints look like they should and I'm having no problems with any of the switches) but I'm also practicing de-soldering on my techkeys business card before I take the iron to my Race 2, and I'm having a problem where I can't get all of the solder out of the joint (it circles around the bottom of the switch contact and I can't get it out) Anybody have any suggestions on how to get it out? I'm going to try wicking it out.

Wick is an option, you can also try adding more solder and desoldering again or you can pull a bit on the switch while you heat the rest of the solder.

[exitfire401]

Alright, so soldering took me two seconds to master haha (at least all of my joints look like they should and I'm having no problems with any of the switches) but I'm also practicing de-soldering on my techkeys business card before I take the iron to my Race 2, and I'm having a problem where I can't get all of the solder out of the joint (it circles around the bottom of the switch contact and I can't get it out) Anybody have any suggestions on how to get it out? I'm going to try wicking it out.

Wick is an option, you can also try adding more solder and desoldering again or you can pull a bit on the switch while you heat the rest of the solder.

Tried the other two already =( Seems wick is my last option haha. Thanks for the prompt response!

[MOZ]

If you are using a soldapullt from GHers, then I would say that you should be able to pull all the solder out, there is enough vacuum, what you want to do is, when you melt the solder with your iron, really get in there with soldapullt with the iron still touching the pad (Maybe your iron will touch the soldapullt tip, but don't worry, those are really tough). When I began using the soldapullt, I would bring the soldapullt to the pad just as I was removing the iron, since I use eutectic solder, this was enough time for some of the solder to solidify, I was scared of melting the tip, then I started to bring the soldapullt onto the pad at an angle, with the iron still toughing it, and then in a single swift motion remove the iron, tilt the soldapullt vertically up, right above the pad and completely covering it and pushing the button on it, all at the same time.

[swill]

Tried the other two already =( Seems wick is my last option haha. Thanks for the prompt response!

You may have to add Flux before you add more solder and then repull it. I had to do this to clean up bad pulls. I found than the new solder did not reflow well enough otherwise. Something to try anyway.

[mkawa]

If you are using a soldapullt from GHers, then I would say that you should be able to pull all the solder out, there is enough vacuum, what you want to do is, when you melt the solder with your iron, really get in there with soldapullt with the iron still touching the pad (Maybe your iron will touch the soldapullt tip, but don't worry, those are really tough). When I began using the soldapullt, I would bring the soldapullt to the pad just as I was removing the iron, since I use eutectic solder, this was enough time for some of the solder to solidify, I was scared of melting the tip, then I started to bring the soldapullt onto the pad at an angle, with the iron still toughing it, and then in a single swift motion remove the iron, tilt the soldapullt vertically up, right above the pad and completely covering it and pushing the button on it, all at the same time.

the soldapullt tips are all high purity ptfe. they won't melt until they hit 260C. if you're quick, you can touch them to the iron and molten solder, hit the release button and pull away without damaging the tip at all. don't worry about pulling really hot fumes and solder into the barrel. the krytox that is lubricating the interior has an extreme high vapor pressure and a large amount of ptfe in it, and the gasket that forms the vacuum seal is a beefy oversized piece of FKM that is highly resistant to RA flux and has a melting point  around 200C. i actually pull flux fumes at temp into my soldapullt. you will find that you can pull so much crap in that it clogs very quickly however, so clean it fairly often.

one nice thing about cleaning a krytox lubricated barrel, by the way, is that you can just run water through it. krytox is extremely hydrophobic and will just sit there in the corner with a dunce cap on until all the solder has been flushed out.

[Melvang]

and will just sit there in the corner with a dunce cap on until all the solder has been flushed out.

I lol'd at this

[exitfire401]

Unfortunately I'm using one I picked up at Radio Shack. As suggested, I've been putting the tip to the tip of my iron (not entirely worried about ****ing up the tip of the puller because it came with extra) and that's been fine. I may run and pick up some flux. That's the last thing I haven't tried haha. The Wick worked for the most part, but I'd rather see if adding the flux works before I commit to using wick.

[MOZ]

Get a GH soldapullt

[mkawa]

stay away from no-clean wick and wide diameter wick. wick is braided copper with flux on it. you have to heat the copper enough to ignite the flux, and if the wick has a lot of thermal mass, that means you need to pump a lot of power into it, which could damage your board.

no-clean, lead-free etc wicks have less effective flux on them. if you're going to go through the trouble of using wick, burning your fingers on it, etc, be picky about your wick. way back when, i used to get the ultra-corrosive mg chem braid, but with RoHS and eco everything they've discontinued it. chemtronics soder-wick rosin SD looks like it might work well. i would prefer an RA or even a halide fluxed wick, but at least it's rosin fluxed.

another possibility that i've never tried is to pick your flux of choice and get chemtronics unfluxed fine-braid wick. the flux i would pick would be my favorite MG chem 835, which is an activated rosin flux that wets well and is super easy to apply. apply the flux to the braid just before use, then press the braid to the joint and heat. you will burn your fingers, so i hope you have more nerves than you want on your fingertips; that's just the way it is with wick. as soon as the solder melts, it should flow into the braid by capillary action.

it's incredibly important to stop heating the wick and to gently pull it away from the joint as soon as this happens. if you leave the iron on the joint too long, you risk burning your board (and not just your fingertips). if you pull the iron away and way too long to pull the braid off the joint, the solder could form a solid joint between the pad and the braid, and you could end up ripping the pad off.

[swill]

Thanks for the details on wicks. I have never used a wick, but that all makes sense.

[exitfire401]

Welp, I decided to just gamble and start de-soldering on my Race 2. I had no problems whatsoever as far as de-soldering on the board, just on the techkeys card for some reason.

[Melvang]

Welp, I decided to just gamble and start de-soldering on my Race 2. I had no problems whatsoever as far as de-soldering on the board, just on the techkeys card for some reason.

Plated through holes on multi layered PCBs are much more difficult to desolder than a single sided PCB.

[exitfire401]

Welp, I decided to just gamble and start de-soldering on my Race 2. I had no problems whatsoever as far as de-soldering on the board, just on the techkeys card for some reason.

Plated through holes on multi layered PCBs are much more difficult to desolder than a single sided PCB.

Race 2 is a dual layer

[Melvang]

Welp, I decided to just gamble and start de-soldering on my Race 2. I had no problems whatsoever as far as de-soldering on the board, just on the techkeys card for some reason.

Plated through holes on multi layered PCBs are much more difficult to desolder than a single sided PCB.

Race 2 is a dual layer

Could be the solder used.  I have seen that make it more difficult to desolder.  In particular lead free solder is a pain.  I usually just go through and add some Kester solder to any board I desolder especially the older ones.

[exitfire401]

Welp, I decided to just gamble and start de-soldering on my Race 2. I had no problems whatsoever as far as de-soldering on the board, just on the techkeys card for some reason.

Plated through holes on multi layered PCBs are much more difficult to desolder than a single sided PCB.

Race 2 is a dual layer

Could be the solder used.  I have seen that make it more difficult to desolder.  In particular lead free solder is a pain.  I usually just go through and add some Kester solder to any board I desolder especially the older ones.

Probably is. I knew age was a little bit of a factor in older solder, so I made sure to ask how long what I purchased had been on the shelf. Turned out to be a little under a year. I'll probably spend some decent money and go buy some kester before I re-solder into the race

[Melvang]

Welp, I decided to just gamble and start de-soldering on my Race 2. I had no problems whatsoever as far as de-soldering on the board, just on the techkeys card for some reason.

Plated through holes on multi layered PCBs are much more difficult to desolder than a single sided PCB.

Race 2 is a dual layer

Could be the solder used.  I have seen that make it more difficult to desolder.  In particular lead free solder is a pain.  I usually just go through and add some Kester solder to any board I desolder especially the older ones.

Probably is. I knew age was a little bit of a factor in older solder, so I made sure to ask how long what I purchased had been on the shelf. Turned out to be a little under a year. I'll probably spend some decent money and go buy some kester before I re-solder into the race

Get in touch with mkawa on that one.  He might have some in stock yet.

[mkawa]

there will be an announcement pretty soon regarding that.

[MOZ]

I hate whick, burnt too much fingers, no thanks.

[tricheboars]

I hate whick, burnt too much fingers, no thanks.

i agree.  while whick still has its use and place (especially with pre-soldered boards) i greatly prefer my soldapullit.  that little edyson solder sucker (also not so little i was freaked out when it arrived and it wasnt the size of a pen like it thought it was going to be) just sucks everything up i throw at it.  my only complaint is that the tip be made of a more temperature resistant (but non conductive) material that doesnt easily melt.  see many times when i am using the solder sucker i have to place the sucker near my tip as i heat up the solder.  i have melted the soldapullit tip quite a bit through use. 

whatever though it is way better than whick.  whick is so messy and slow.