The Living Soldering Thread

[SpAmRaY]

Is it ok to use a cheap $15 iron + solder kit for a single 60% keyboard job?

That would all depend on how competent you are at soldering.

[sethk_]

Is it ok to use a cheap $15 iron + solder kit for a single 60% keyboard job?

That would all depend on how competent you are at soldering.

And also what you plan on soldering. If it is all through hole and no LEDs(in case you need to desolder) and if you don't need to desolder at all, then I think it would work.

[meow a cat]

Does anyone have any suggestions for a good wire for handwiring a keyboard? New at this. But my Hakko is out for delivery today. 

I want to order some in case I lift a pad or something, and I need to wire a trace by hand. I was also thinking about buying a Planck kit too.

[jdcarpe]

Does anyone have any suggestions for a good wire for handwiring a keyboard? New at this. But my Hakko is out for delivery today. 

I want to order some in case I lift a pad or something, and I need to wire a trace by hand. I was also thinking about buying a Planck kit too.

Kinda hard to find this info, since it was posted in comments on a reddit thread.

http://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/2vx98k/photos_planckatomic_inspired_cartesian_longboard/colq1o9

Glad you noticed the wire. I have stopped using standard ribbon cables for these hand builds. I had some old rainbow colored bundled IDE cables that I tore apart and was cannibalizing for use building circuits and realized that I preferred it's gauge, so I ordered some of this [30AWG blue hookup wire from mouser http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/OK-Industries/R30B-0100/?qs=kjdRZtHFUmlRP7B8cvTVWw%3D%3D. It absolutely wouldn't stand up to any repeated flexing at the point of solder, but it's ideal for me in any sort of static unmoving configuration like this.

[swill]

Does anyone have any suggestions for a good wire for handwiring a keyboard? New at this. But my Hakko is out for delivery today. 

I want to order some in case I lift a pad or something, and I need to wire a trace by hand. I was also thinking about buying a Planck kit too.

Kinda hard to find this info, since it was posted in comments on a reddit thread.

http://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/2vx98k/photos_planckatomic_inspired_cartesian_longboard/colq1o9

Glad you noticed the wire. I have stopped using standard ribbon cables for these hand builds. I had some old rainbow colored bundled IDE cables that I tore apart and was cannibalizing for use building circuits and realized that I preferred it's gauge, so I ordered some of this [30AWG blue hookup wire from mouser http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/OK-Industries/R30B-0100/?qs=kjdRZtHFUmlRP7B8cvTVWw%3D%3D. It absolutely wouldn't stand up to any repeated flexing at the point of solder, but it's ideal for me in any sort of static unmoving configuration like this.

Isn't 30AWG pretty small for this?  I would expect something closer to like 26AWG hookup wire to be nicer to work with.

I know a bunch of people have been using magnet wire for hand wiring projects.

[fknraiden]

Maybe someone can shed some light on this. What should I be using to clean up the residual flux/gunk left over on the board once it's all together?

[Melvang]

Maybe someone can shed some light on this. What should I be using to clean up the residual flux/gunk left over on the board once it's all together?

Isopropyl / rubbing alcohol as high of concentration as you can find, I personally wouldn't recommend anything less than 90% and won't use anything less than 70%.

[swill]

Maybe someone can shed some light on this. What should I be using to clean up the residual flux/gunk left over on the board once it's all together?

Isopropyl / rubbing alcohol as high of concentration as you can find, I personally wouldn't recommend anything less than 90% and won't use anything less than 70%.

This and a toothbrush.

[heedpantsnow]

Maybe someone can shed some light on this. What should I be using to clean up the residual flux/gunk left over on the board once it's all together?

Isopropyl / rubbing alcohol as high of concentration as you can find, I personally wouldn't recommend anything less than 90% and won't use anything less than 70%.

This and a toothbrush.

I don't recommend you brush your teeth with high-percentage isopropyl alcohol sir.  Just sayin.

[swill]

Maybe someone can shed some light on this. What should I be using to clean up the residual flux/gunk left over on the board once it's all together?

Isopropyl / rubbing alcohol as high of concentration as you can find, I personally wouldn't recommend anything less than 90% and won't use anything less than 70%.

This and a toothbrush.

I don't recommend you brush your teeth with high-percentage isopropyl alcohol sir.  Just sayin.

Ya. Not sure I would either. Probably would be awful. Haha.

[fknraiden]

Maybe someone can shed some light on this. What should I be using to clean up the residual flux/gunk left over on the board once it's all together?

Isopropyl / rubbing alcohol as high of concentration as you can find, I personally wouldn't recommend anything less than 90% and won't use anything less than 70%.

This and a toothbrush.

I don't recommend you brush your teeth with high-percentage isopropyl alcohol sir.  Just sayin.

thank you, i dont know what i would have done without you. +1

[meow a cat]

Does anyone have any suggestions for a good wire for handwiring a keyboard? New at this. But my Hakko is out for delivery today. 

I want to order some in case I lift a pad or something, and I need to wire a trace by hand. I was also thinking about buying a Planck kit too.

Kinda hard to find this info, since it was posted in comments on a reddit thread.

http://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/2vx98k/photos_planckatomic_inspired_cartesian_longboard/colq1o9

Glad you noticed the wire. I have stopped using standard ribbon cables for these hand builds. I had some old rainbow colored bundled IDE cables that I tore apart and was cannibalizing for use building circuits and realized that I preferred it's gauge, so I ordered some of this [30AWG blue hookup wire from mouser http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/OK-Industries/R30B-0100/?qs=kjdRZtHFUmlRP7B8cvTVWw%3D%3D. It absolutely wouldn't stand up to any repeated flexing at the point of solder, but it's ideal for me in any sort of static unmoving configuration like this.

Does anyone have any suggestions for a good wire for handwiring a keyboard? New at this. But my Hakko is out for delivery today. 

I want to order some in case I lift a pad or something, and I need to wire a trace by hand. I was also thinking about buying a Planck kit too.

Kinda hard to find this info, since it was posted in comments on a reddit thread.

http://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/2vx98k/photos_planckatomic_inspired_cartesian_longboard/colq1o9

Glad you noticed the wire. I have stopped using standard ribbon cables for these hand builds. I had some old rainbow colored bundled IDE cables that I tore apart and was cannibalizing for use building circuits and realized that I preferred it's gauge, so I ordered some of this [30AWG blue hookup wire from mouser http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/OK-Industries/R30B-0100/?qs=kjdRZtHFUmlRP7B8cvTVWw%3D%3D. It absolutely wouldn't stand up to any repeated flexing at the point of solder, but it's ideal for me in any sort of static unmoving configuration like this.

Isn't 30AWG pretty small for this?  I would expect something closer to like 26AWG hookup wire to be nicer to work with.

I know a bunch of people have been using magnet wire for hand wiring projects.

Thanks for the link and advice guys, I will look into 30 and 26 AWG hookup wire.

Really stoked to build my first complete board. I just did a little work on my Phantom, I think I did really well for my first ever solder job. No scorch marks on the PCB, and I don't think I ended up with a cold solder joint. I think I used just enough solder too.

The Hakko FX888D is really easy to work with. It heats up crazy fast! Really high quality all around, pretty pleased with it.

Could someone confirm for me that these are the right diodes for building most boards? I need to replace one on my Phantom.

http://ca.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Fairchild-Semiconductor/1N4148/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMudZehw8RjeZWbu6z6oTQTL

[bpiphany]

I will dig out the thermocouples I have at an appropriate time.. Meanwhile, yesterday I got some inspiration to finally do some planned upgrades to my toaster =) Added some more insulation, some extra mass and rigidity, removed some wires I didn't use, and the very slow thermocouple I had put in it. I also built the solid state relay with its potentiometer into a unit with a wall socket. My multimeter probes fits snugly into that black cable. Now I'll have a power index through the output voltage =D Up until a particular day in my life I was unaware of what the voltage across the potentiometer was, then I found out it is enough to tickle. Today I measured, and it is the full 224-two-holes-in-the-wall output. No more holding the potentiometer by the wires while turning it, yay for safety!

(Attachment Link)

So I finally got a read-your-thermocouple-thing-a-mingy and hooked it up to be able to do some logging. I followed my regular recipe for toasting my controllers. The results are here.
http://deskthority.net/workshop-f7/toaster-smd-re-flow-oven-t6861.html#p210768

[jorgenslee]

Will the solder expire? I purchase a solder from geekhackers.org last year but due to GB delays I might not be able to assemble on time. Will I still be able to use the solder after a year I have purchase it?

[Melvang]

Will the solder expire? I purchase a solder from geekhackers.org last year but due to GB delays I might not be able to assemble on time. Will I still be able to use the solder after a year I have purchase it?

Yes, the solder will be fine.  The flux has a shelf life, but the solder will be ok.  Somebody else might be able to provide a bit more insight than me.

[PunksDead]

Baking solder i got baking solder!

[swill]

Will the solder expire? I purchase a solder from geekhackers.org last year but due to GB delays I might not be able to assemble on time. Will I still be able to use the solder after a year I have purchase it?

Yes, the solder will be fine.  The flux has a shelf life, but the solder will be ok.  Somebody else might be able to provide a bit more insight than me.

I have used solder that was a bit older before I got some kester 44 from mkawa and it was fine.  I used a little bit of flux with it because the rosin did not flow quite as well as I would like, but it still worked.  It is definitely easier with fresh new solder, but the older solder worked fine.  If you have a little extra flux to help out if you dont like the flow, that is good too. 

[fknraiden]

maybe someone can point me in the right direction, im looking for some smd componants for my board. one is marked 4700, i think its a resistor at 470ohm. the other i cant get any info on anywhere. its marked t4, and sideways an 18. i think thats the diode.
EDIT: also, fuction row doens't work, and its only showing up as atmel device and has to be "started" everytime.

[hasu]

I finally assembled my reflow oven controller, it is very simple, just with button and buzzer, no LCD. I monitor temperature in serial console during reflow. Looks like it works

https://github.com/tmk/HeadlessReflowOven

[bpiphany]

I finally assembled my reflow oven controller, it is very simple, just with button and buzzer, no LCD. I monitor temperature in serial console during reflow. Looks like it works

https://github.com/tmk/HeadlessReflowOven

Show Image

Arrgh, you are beating me to it.. I've been busy building a larger oven as well. Mine comes with a surprise though. When it's finished that is. I'm waiting for a relay and some wiring to arrive from ebay before I can finish it. This Chinese holiday thing is killing me =)

Looking good by the way.

[hasu]

Haha, I'm looking forward to that surprise!
And yeah, Chinese new year really depress our hobby, my PCB production also will be slowed down by a month.

[bpiphany]

Ok, this is a preview for now. I'm mostly done, looking forward to mess around with the controlling of the beast once it is finished =)

http://deskthority.net/workshop-f7/the-oven-t10016.html

(Want to say that thing you said again, mkawa?)

[MOZ]

Nice work hasu!

Looking forward to The Oven bpiphany.

[alexofthewest]

I am looking to start modding various electronic devices I have including my poker 2. In the short term I want to swap out my browns with ergo clears and would like some advice on what soddering iron I should look at, but I also want to use it on an RC car I am working on, so perhaps different tips needs to be an option?

What soldering iron should I get (I STRONGLY prefer amazon prime if that's an option)
edit: After reading a lot of this thread a lot of people reccomend the hakko fx888d and some mentioned this: "http://www.edsyn.com/product/CL1481-K.html"   how does the soldering iron in this kit compare to the Hakko?

[Ngt]

I consider buying this soldering iron in order to try soldering for the first time. I don't want to invest too much money in it as I don't know if I'll like it or not.
http://www.amazon.fr/STATION-SOUDAGE-150-450%C2%B0C-Appareils-%C3%A9lectroniques/dp/B0043QOAV2/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1425047744&sr=8-9&keywords=fer+%C3%A0+souder


What do you guys think of this model? I'm sorry the link is in french. I didn't find any options to switch the language of the page. I guess you could use Google page translation.


I looked into the cheap package shown in the OP but I'm not sure they ship worldwide plus it might cost me a bit.

[azhdar]

I consider buying this soldering iron in order to try soldering for the first time. I don't want to invest too much money in it as I don't know if I'll like it or not.
http://www.amazon.fr/STATION-SOUDAGE-150-450%C2%B0C-Appareils-%C3%A9lectroniques/dp/B0043QOAV2/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1425047744&sr=8-9&keywords=fer+%C3%A0+souder


What do you guys think of this model? I'm sorry the link is in french. I didn't find any options to switch the language of the page. I guess you could use Google page translation.


I looked into the cheap package shown in the OP but I'm not sure they ship worldwide plus it might cost me a bit.

It's the one I got , I'll show you tuesday

[Ngt]

I consider buying this soldering iron in order to try soldering for the first time. I don't want to invest too much money in it as I don't know if I'll like it or not.
http://www.amazon.fr/STATION-SOUDAGE-150-450%C2%B0C-Appareils-%C3%A9lectroniques/dp/B0043QOAV2/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1425047744&sr=8-9&keywords=fer+%C3%A0+souder


What do you guys think of this model? I'm sorry the link is in french. I didn't find any options to switch the language of the page. I guess you could use Google page translation.


I looked into the cheap package shown in the OP but I'm not sure they ship worldwide plus it might cost me a bit.

It's the one I got , I'll show you tuesday

Oh cool. Do you like it so far? No problem to signal?

[fknraiden]

burnt out some smaller stuff while removing leds. could anyone help me find parts highlighted in the attached image? i think i have found the correct diodes marked in blue, but i'm trying to find the smaller brown/tan colored whatevers marked in the other colors. they look like the same thing but one stands taller than the other. please and thank you =P

My understanding is i dont need the 470ohm resistors if im not doing leds and i'd only need them on the specific keys if i did want a capslock

[hasu]

I think that chip is ATMega32U4 and cap highlighted with yellow line is connected to pin 6 and green one to pin 44. If this is correct yellow cap should be 1uF(datasheet says 10% torlerant is needed) and green one is decoule cap which is OK with general 0.1uF.

It is a bit difficutl to see size of them but both looks to me like 1608(metric)/0603(imperial).

[alexofthewest]

can anyone explain to me if either of these are genuine or what the reason for the price difference is?

http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-Digital-FX888D-CHP170-bundle/dp/B00AWUFVY8/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1425142811&sr=8-10&keywords=soldering+iron

http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Digital-Soldering-FX-888D/dp/B00ANZRT4M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1425142811&sr=8-1&keywords=soldering+iron

[swill]

can anyone explain to me if either of these are genuine or what the reason for the price difference is?

http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-Digital-FX888D-CHP170-bundle/dp/B00AWUFVY8/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1425142811&sr=8-10&keywords=soldering+iron

http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Digital-Soldering-FX-888D/dp/B00ANZRT4M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1425142811&sr=8-1&keywords=soldering+iron

Ummm. They are both $95, but one you get free cutters. Maybe I did not understand the question?

[heedpantsnow]

Lol sold by same company!

[ctm]

A noob question: is it necessary to clean up flux after soldering? I changed a few switches in my keyboard and there is some flux left on the PCB (I use a solder that has flux in the middle). Its appearance matches rosin flux I find on Google image. Will the remaining flux on PCB affects the functionality of the keyboard in long term?

[fknraiden]

A noob question: is it necessary to clean up flux after soldering? I changed a few switches in my keyboard and there is some flux left on the PCB (I use a solder that has flux in the middle). Its appearance matches rosin flux I find on Google image. Will the remaining flux on PCB affects the functionality of the keyboard in long term?

yes and no. some solder is "no clean" and will be fine. but its always safe to just take an old toothbrush and clean it with rubbing alcohol.(will make everything slightly sticky)

[phoenix1234]

A noob question: is it necessary to clean up flux after soldering? I changed a few switches in my keyboard and there is some flux left on the PCB (I use a solder that has flux in the middle). Its appearance matches rosin flux I find on Google image. Will the remaining flux on PCB affects the functionality of the keyboard in long term?

Unless the flux is acid or corrosive flux, you don't need to clean the residue.
The Kester 44 solder that is selling on GH has non-corrosive and non-conductive flux, so you don't really need to clean it after soldered.

[ctm]

A noob question: is it necessary to clean up flux after soldering? I changed a few switches in my keyboard and there is some flux left on the PCB (I use a solder that has flux in the middle). Its appearance matches rosin flux I find on Google image. Will the remaining flux on PCB affects the functionality of the keyboard in long term?

Unless the flux is acid or corrosive flux, you don't need to clean the residue.
The Kester 44 solder that is selling on GH has non-corrosive and non-conductive flux, so you don't really need to clean it after soldered.

Thank you! Kester 44 looks like what I found in the lab and used in soldering my keyboard, as I remember. So I think I will just leave the flux there. Though it's not pretty, it's inside the case and I rarely see it. I am too lazy to find a solvent to clean it up (I also doubt if there is any solvent in the lab).

[phishy]

Silly question but i just tried soldering for the first time (good thing i bought extra switches and diodes....but the solder joint for each switch needs to be AFTER the diode, correct?  I effed up and soldering the lead from one diode to right before the diode for the next switch in the row.

[HoffmanMyster]

Silly question but i just tried soldering for the first time (good thing i bought extra switches and diodes....but the solder joint for each switch needs to be AFTER the diode, correct?  I effed up and soldering the lead from one diode to right before the diode for the next switch in the row.

A picture would help a lot.  Are you soldering a hand-wired matrix?  PCB?  I think I understand what you're asking but don't want to make assumptions, so pictures help a lot.

[phishy]

Silly question but i just tried soldering for the first time (good thing i bought extra switches and diodes....but the solder joint for each switch needs to be AFTER the diode, correct?  I effed up and soldering the lead from one diode to right before the diode for the next switch in the row.

A picture would help a lot.  Are you soldering a hand-wired matrix?  PCB?  I think I understand what you're asking but don't want to make assumptions, so pictures help a lot.

I got it all figured out.  I was soldering a matrix.

Now im waiting for some soderon magnet wire because I don't see how people have enough patience to strip down regular wire to tie in all the columns of a matrix.  Sitting there with wire strippers and a razor blade takes 4everrrrr.

[azhdar]

One of the switch wasn't working (pressing it or doing a contact onto the solder points, so I desoldered it and I still can't see what's wrong:





Note: the 2 points were working before I tested the pcb when received, not working anymore sadly.
Can you guys help me?

[swill]

One of the switch wasn't working (pressing it or doing a contact onto the solder points, so I desoldered it and I still can't see what's wrong:

Show Image

Show Image

Note: the 2 points were working before I tested the pcb when received, not working anymore sadly.
Can you guys help me?

I don't see anything wrong.  One thing I want to make sure you understand is that you MUST put LEDs in those sip sockets BEFORE you solder or you will spend hours trying to get LEDs in there after.  Pro tip... 

Edit: So if you manually connect those two it will not register the key press?  If that is the case it seems that the pad has somehow disconnected from the trace.  You will have to connect the pad to the destination of the trace then. 

Edit2: Your missing a diode.  That is probably the problem...

[azhdar]

One of the switch wasn't working (pressing it or doing a contact onto the solder points, so I desoldered it and I still can't see what's wrong:

Show Image

Show Image

Note: the 2 points were working before I tested the pcb when received, not working anymore sadly.
Can you guys help me?

I don't see anything wrong.  One thing I want to make sure you understand is that you MUST put LEDs in those sip sockets BEFORE you solder or you will spend hours trying to get LEDs in there after.  Pro tip... 

Edit: So if you manually connect those two it will not register the key press?  If that is the case it seems that the pad has somehow disconnected from the trace.  You will have to connect the pad to the destination of the trace then. 

Edit2: Your missing a diode.  That is probably the problem...

Damn I must have broke the diode when soldering somehow, very good catch swill.

I looked on the board for one I could re-use , could I use this one (considering I'll never put a switch on that position) :

sorry ultra potato

Is there something special to know when working on this kind of diodes?

[heedpantsnow]

One of the switch wasn't working (pressing it or doing a contact onto the solder points, so I desoldered it and I still can't see what's wrong:

Show Image

Show Image

Note: the 2 points were working before I tested the pcb when received, not working anymore sadly.
Can you guys help me?

I don't see anything wrong.  One thing I want to make sure you understand is that you MUST put LEDs in those sip sockets BEFORE you solder or you will spend hours trying to get LEDs in there after.  Pro tip... 

Edit: So if you manually connect those two it will not register the key press?  If that is the case it seems that the pad has somehow disconnected from the trace.  You will have to connect the pad to the destination of the trace then. 

Edit2: Your missing a diode.  That is probably the problem...

Damn I must have broke the diode when soldering somehow, very good catch swill.

I looked on the board for one I could re-use , could I use this one (considering I'll never put a switch on that position) :

Show Image

sorry ultra potato

Is there something special to know when working on this kind of diodes?

Ew.  Desoldering SMD=misery in my experience.  Maybe others have some tips for you.

[swill]

One of the switch wasn't working (pressing it or doing a contact onto the solder points, so I desoldered it and I still can't see what's wrong:

Show Image

Show Image

Note: the 2 points were working before I tested the pcb when received, not working anymore sadly.
Can you guys help me?

I don't see anything wrong.  One thing I want to make sure you understand is that you MUST put LEDs in those sip sockets BEFORE you solder or you will spend hours trying to get LEDs in there after.  Pro tip... 

Edit: So if you manually connect those two it will not register the key press?  If that is the case it seems that the pad has somehow disconnected from the trace.  You will have to connect the pad to the destination of the trace then. 

Edit2: Your missing a diode.  That is probably the problem...

Damn I must have broke the diode when soldering somehow, very good catch swill.

I looked on the board for one I could re-use , could I use this one (considering I'll never put a switch on that position) :

Show Image

sorry ultra potato

Is there something special to know when working on this kind of diodes?

I'm on my phone, so its hard to tell anything.  You have to pay attention to polarity when working diodes (not sure if you soldered them originally).  There is a right and wrong direction. They basically work like a one way valve.

I don't know that matrix, so I don't know if you will break the matrix if you remove it. I suspect you may break a row or a column if you remove it. Someone with more experience may be able to help you better.

If you do decide to remove it, you will have to be pretty careful because its easy suck them up and lose them with the solder sucker. I would recommend placing the edge of the sucker on the diode when you suck so it does not try to pull it off. Also, only suck one side, but get it as clean as possible. Then try to heat the other side and slide it off the pad with tweezers. I think that's the most controlled way to get them off with limited tools. You have to basically detach the first side to make this work though.

Hope that helps.

[azhdar]

Damn how do I know which type of diode I need? What pictures could I take so you guys can help me out?

Almost certainly stupid question, but I have those : http://www.gonskeyboardworks.com/electric-parts/15-resistorssmd-100-pcs.html
133Ω , I can't use them as diodes right?

[fknraiden]

Damn how do I know which type of diode I need? What pictures could I take so you guys can help me out?

Almost certainly stupid question, but I have those : http://www.gonskeyboardworks.com/electric-parts/15-resistorssmd-100-pcs.html
133Ω , I can't use them as diodes right?

I recently ordered some diodes in 2 case sizes and when I get home I'll find out which one correct and reply with a Mouser link. They are sad, not through hole like gon's.

[hasu]

You can sepecuate it from size of PCB pads but you better supply information about what your PCB exactly is. Hopefully sechematic and PCB design files are prefered.

Apparently you can't those, because those are resistors, not diodes. You will see ghost keys if you use those resistors.

Damn how do I know which type of diode I need? What pictures could I take so you guys can help me out?

Almost certainly stupid question, but I have those : http://www.gonskeyboardworks.com/electric-parts/15-resistorssmd-100-pcs.html
133Ω , I can't use them as diodes right?

[azhdar]

I contacted someone that might have info onto the electronics of this PCB (redScarfIII 96).
Thanks for all your answers !

[azhdar]

The diode what RSIII uses is 1n4148 in 0805 package

This : http://www.amazon.fr/1N4148-IN4148-SOD-323-Switching-Diode/dp/B00CN530MA/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1426064622&sr=1-1&keywords=1n4148+0805#productDetails
should work right?

[swill]

The diode what RSIII uses is 1n4148 in 0805 package

This : http://www.amazon.fr/1N4148-IN4148-SOD-323-Switching-Diode/dp/B00CN530MA/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1426064622&sr=1-1&keywords=1n4148+0805#productDetails
should work right?

That should work fine...