The Living Soldering Thread

[vun]

Finally got the solder I ordered today. The place I ordered from had closed for 2 weeks due to summer, so it took some time. 60/40 Multicore solder, 0.46mm and 0.7mm. At first I thought maybe 0.7 was too large, but when I got it I'm glad I didn't order anything smaller. Also ordered some solder wick and a Hakko tip tinner. Finally ready for when the eDox kit gets here, whenever that is.
Incredibly hard to find proper solder here in Norway, most of what you'll find in the few hardware stores selling it is lead-free junk.

[Dubsgalore]

New Hakko Tips came today
can't wait to use them

[oTurtlez]

FX888, Soldapullt, and Kester 44 came in yesterday. This iron, omg. Coming from a Home Depot Weller 15w for small electronics work, and a Weller 110/140W Gun for car audio, this thing is outstanding. I was only able to use it for a few minutes late last night, so I took apart a broken LED flashlight and desoldered the 3 LEDs in less than a minute. I'm gonna have a fun time with this bad boy

[tricheboars]

FX888, Soldapullt, and Kester 44 came in yesterday. This iron, omg. Coming from a Home Depot Weller 15w for small electronics work, and a Weller 110/140W Gun for car audio, this thing is outstanding. I was only able to use it for a few minutes late last night, so I took apart a broken LED flashlight and desoldered the 3 LEDs in less than a minute. I'm gonna have a fun time with this bad boy

thats my gear son. **** yea. kester 44, Hakko fx888d, and Edsyn Deluxe Soldapullt are my jam. be sure to have a nice light and something to help hold your project.

our setups are premo, but i am still looking for a descent helping hand setup. the cheap one i bought on amazon sucks toe nails. one thing no one told me when i got into soldering is that you need 3-4 hands for everything you want to do outside of keyboards (which are really easy to work with).  also do yourself a favor and stay away from SMD work. that shiz sucks.

[oTurtlez]

FX888, Soldapullt, and Kester 44 came in yesterday. This iron, omg. Coming from a Home Depot Weller 15w for small electronics work, and a Weller 110/140W Gun for car audio, this thing is outstanding. I was only able to use it for a few minutes late last night, so I took apart a broken LED flashlight and desoldered the 3 LEDs in less than a minute. I'm gonna have a fun time with this bad boy

thats my gear son. **** yea. kester 44, Hakko fx888d, and Edsyn Deluxe Soldapullt are my jam. be sure to have a nice light and something to help hold your project.

our setups are premo, but i am still looking for a descent helping hand setup. the cheap one i bought on amazon sucks toe nails. one thing no one told me when i got into soldering is that you need 3-4 hands for everything you want to do outside of keyboards (which are really easy to work with).  also do yourself a favor and stay away from SMD work. that shiz sucks.

Lol will do on the SMD work haha. I actually went with the FX888, non digital one, I prefer the direct setting of a dial, and it was only $80

[vun]

I regret not buying the FX-888D, but it's over $200 here, so a bit hard to justify. But if I should somehow find a buyer for my current iron(hah, as if), or it breaks, I'll probably get the FX-888D.

[HoffmanMyster]

I regret not buying the FX-888D, but it's over $200 here, so a bit hard to justify. But if I should somehow find a buyer for my current iron(hah, as if), or it breaks, I'll probably get the FX-888D.

Could you benefit from someone purchasing it here and mailing it to you?

[vun]

I regret not buying the FX-888D, but it's over $200 here, so a bit hard to justify. But if I should somehow find a buyer for my current iron(hah, as if), or it breaks, I'll probably get the FX-888D.

Could you benefit from someone purchasing it here and mailing it to you?

Slightly, but as always my issue with proxying is that if something goes wrong I'm pretty much screwed. And I'd still have to get rid of my current iron, which is pretty much impossible.

[MOZ]

I love how people are more than ready to help on GH.

[mkawa]

who was it that broke a heating element? replacement parts are easily available. however, you will have to buy genuine hakko (not a terrible thing). call up the hakko folks in your country and ask a replacement heating element for a hakko 936. while you're at it, pick up some tips that are the right size (hakko is pushing the T series tips now for the 888(d) series. these tips do NOT fit the older 936s.

sweet! you don't have to buy genuine hakko: http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=936+heating+element&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3A936+heating+element

of course, you will need to solder the new heating element onto the iron. this is surprisingly easy. twist the wire joints together by hand and put your iron together. MAKE SURE that you've run enough cable that the solder joints are not inside the solder pen (this will make more sense once you get everything apart). the soldering pencil will heat up with the hand twisted electrical connections. OK, you're ready! now solder the joints and shrink your heatshrink or wrap your joints with good quality electrical tape (nowadays this stuff is fiberglass and not rubber by the way).

[mkawa]

vun: when it comes down to it, a well soldered joint is a well soldered joint. alaricjls built probably hundreds of keyboards with the weller wlc-100, which is a station that i hate with a passion that could ignite a thousand suns. however, his technique is good and hence his joints are good. to my knowledge, he's never had a single failure in the field.

[Xenderwind]

who was it that broke a heating element? replacement parts are easily available. however, you will have to buy genuine hakko (not a terrible thing). call up the hakko folks in your country and ask a replacement heating element for a hakko 936. while you're at it, pick up some tips that are the right size (hakko is pushing the T series tips now for the 888(d) series. these tips do NOT fit the older 936s.

sweet! you don't have to buy genuine hakko: http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=936+heating+element&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3A936+heating+element

of course, you will need to solder the new heating element onto the iron. this is surprisingly easy. twist the wire joints together by hand and put your iron together. MAKE SURE that you've run enough cable that the solder joints are not inside the solder pen (this will make more sense once you get everything apart). the soldering pencil will heat up with the hand twisted electrical connections. OK, you're ready! now solder the joints and shrink your heatshrink or wrap your joints with good quality electrical tape (nowadays this stuff is fiberglass and not rubber by the way).

Lol i appreciate the help.  It was me but i bought an aoyue 936 that came in today.  It actually came with a spare heating element.  I didn't think i would be able to use a new heating element without another soldering iron anyway(to solder it together).  Also I think it would have taken too long for it to get to me.

The tip I bought didn't work for this one either, it was close but not quite.  So far I tried soldering/desoldering on an old phone and it didn't seem too bad so I just went right to work on my QFR.  So far I have done the entire far right side(13 keys) on it and have tested to make sure they work.  The only problem I seem to have so far is that I am finding that I usually have to add new solder to each point before desoldering with my iron+soldapullt.  I'm really liking the Aoyue so far, it seems a lot nicer built and it even has this spool thing for my solder. 

[mkawa]

adding more solder to a joint in order to get suction with a soldapullt is normal and actually kind of an advanced technique good job!

[vun]

vun: when it comes down to it, a well soldered joint is a well soldered joint. alaricjls built probably hundreds of keyboards with the weller wlc-100, which is a station that i hate with a passion that could ignite a thousand suns. however, his technique is good and hence his joints are good. to my knowledge, he's never had a single failure in the field.

Oh, it's not that; I know the station is good as I've got a friend who has one who's done loads of soldering with it, LEDs, controllers, that sorta stuff. I just think the Hakko looks smoother and it would make me feel far more confident in my equipment at least. And it'd be easier to get more tips should I want that, afaik there are only two different tips available for mine, so if I'd want a larger wedge for easier desoldering of large joints/components I'm SOL.

[bueller]

Currently lowpoly wiring my custom board, kill me. On a lighter note the soldering station I picked up off eBay is pretty awesome for a $40 job. It's a rebadge of the Sparkfun station if anyone is interested.

[HoffmanMyster]

Currently lowpoly wiring my custom board, kill me. On a lighter note the soldering station I picked up off eBay is pretty awesome for a $40 job. It's a rebadge of the Sparkfun station if anyone is interested.

Nice!  How's it going?  Seems like you're not enjoying it?

[bueller]

Currently lowpoly wiring my custom board, kill me. On a lighter note the soldering station I picked up off eBay is pretty awesome for a $40 job. It's a rebadge of the Sparkfun station if anyone is interested.

Nice!  How's it going?  Seems like you're not enjoying it?

I'm getting there, SLOWLY. I probably could have got it done a lot quicker but I wound up wrapping the diodes around their own length of wire and then heatshrunk in between each pin. Time consuming as hell but with both the columns and rows insulated looks a lot cleaner and will make shorts pretty much impossible. Got all the rows done and I've just started the columns, they're going a lot quicker though so I should have it ready to go sometime tomorrow!

[HoffmanMyster]

Oh, wow, heatshrinking everything would definitely get a bit tedious.     Sounds like it'll be really solid and sturdy and short-proof though! 

[nubbinator]

I'm getting there, SLOWLY. I probably could have got it done a lot quicker but I wound up wrapping the diodes around their own length of wire and then heatshrunk in between each pin. Time consuming as hell but with both the columns and rows insulated looks a lot cleaner and will make shorts pretty much impossible. Got all the rows done and I've just started the columns, they're going a lot quicker though so I should have it ready to go sometime tomorrow!

Hot glue is just as effective.  It's uglier, but it will speed things up.

[Xenderwind]

So I managed to finish my keyboard last night.  Desoldering wasn't nearly as bad as I was expecting, and I found the soldapullt to be really effective/easy to use.  I had two connections that were a pain to do though.  One of them was the left alt which I knew was bad but the left windows key also had a joint that didn't want to grab the solder.  I ended up using part of a resistor's leads to get the blobs of solder to stay.  Overall pretty easy, just took a while.  I didn't even burn myself

[Narcix]

Can i use the EWIG rapid 20/40 w soldering iron for modding (LEDs)?

[germy]

Ok I'm new to the world of soldering and want to get into it properly.

If I get Aoyue 968A+, do I still need to get something like the Hakko FX888D because I read the former has a soldering iron? Is it comparable to the Hakko?

[The_Beast]

nm....

[Photekq]

I just want to warn everyone DO NOT USE A SOLDAPULLT COPY!!!!

I was using one made by 'draper' and it kept on jamming & failing to desolder the joint.. In the end it resulted in the pad getting broken. I now think that particular switch spot on the pcb may be permanently broken.

Also, it wasn't my technique. I've desoldered full boards before and I know how to do it. I also cleaned it out multiple times once it started jamming. It's also fairly new.

[MJ45]

The cheap desolder suckers always let me down at the worst time. The genuine Soldapult's are well made and last long. They seen to have real good suction, replacement tips and "O" rings are available so they can last a long time.

[Photekq]

Well, even though my desoldering pump failed and ****ed up a pad I did take a few pictures of my solder joints while I was at it. What do you guys think?

[Melvang]

I just want to warn everyone DO NOT USE A SOLDAPULLT COPY!!!!

I was using one made by 'draper' and it kept on jamming & failing to desolder the joint.. In the end it resulted in the pad getting broken. I now think that particular switch spot on the pcb may be permanently broken.

Also, it wasn't my technique. I've desoldered full boards before and I know how to do it. I also cleaned it out multiple times once it started jamming. It's also fairly new.

Maybe this is why I messed up 3 pads and a trace on my Phantom during my desoldering operation.  Used a combination of a solder sucker and the desoldering iron both radio shack brand.

Any chance we can get some tip suggestions in the OP at least for sizes?  I am looking to replace the tip on my Weller and not sure what size I want to get.  I know I want to go a bit smaller but not sure how much.

[Photekq]

Maybe this is why I messed up 3 pads and a trace on my Phantom during my desoldering operation.  Used a combination of a solder sucker and the desoldering iron both radio shack brand.

Any chance we can get some tip suggestions in the OP at least for sizes?  I am looking to replace the tip on my Weller and not sure what size I want to get.  I know I want to go a bit smaller but not sure how much.

The problem with mine was that it simply wouldn't suck up all the solder. I had to repeat it again and again, until it reached a point where the pad was screwed up and it couldn't be fixed.

[WhiteFireDragon]

Any chance we can get some tip suggestions in the OP at least for sizes?  I am looking to replace the tip on my Weller and not sure what size I want to get.  I know I want to go a bit smaller but not sure how much.

I use a 1.6mm chisel head tip. It's large enough to solder switch pins, but small enough to do fine SMD sizes. I use the tip exclusively for everything.

Well, even though my desoldering pump failed and ****ed up a pad I did take a few pictures of my solder joints while I was at it. What do you guys think?

Show Image

One of the worst joints I've seen

jk. Are you fishing for compliments? That's a good joint in regards to how much solder applied, and even heat flow.

[Melvang]

Maybe this is why I messed up 3 pads and a trace on my Phantom during my desoldering operation.  Used a combination of a solder sucker and the desoldering iron both radio shack brand.

Any chance we can get some tip suggestions in the OP at least for sizes?  I am looking to replace the tip on my Weller and not sure what size I want to get.  I know I want to go a bit smaller but not sure how much.

The problem with mine was that it simply wouldn't suck up all the solder. I had to repeat it again and again, until it reached a point where the pad was screwed up and it couldn't be fixed.

Sounds familiar

[actionbastard]

Well, even though my desoldering pump failed and ****ed up a pad I did take a few pictures of my solder joints while I was at it. What do you guys think?

Show Image

One of the worst joints I've seen

jk. Are you fishing for compliments? That's a good joint in regards to how much solder applied, and even heat flow.

I was looking at this and yeah.... kinda looks like too little solder. Is there any reason to solder the Edox like that? Sorry if this is a dumb question but you know a thing or two about soldering.

[WhiteFireDragon]

I was looking at this and yeah.... kinda looks like too little solder. Is there any reason to solder the Edox like that? Sorry if this is a dumb question but you know a thing or two about soldering.

That guy you linked used too much solder for the diodes, and not enough solder for the switch pins. There should be solder coming out of the hole. There is a higher risk of cold joints when you don't put enough solder (especially the very bottom right hole in the pic). Most of the time, you only really need an electrical connection, but specifically ergo-doxes need a fully complete solder joint because it's all the mechanical support that switch has. The acrylic plate does nothing to actually lock down the switch.

[Photekq]

One of the worst joints I've seen

jk. Are you fishing for compliments? That's a good joint in regards to how much solder applied, and even heat flow.

For once I wasn't fishing for compliments ) Just wanted to get some feedback on my joints to see if they were ok. Thanks

[actionbastard]

I was looking at this and yeah.... kinda looks like too little solder. Is there any reason to solder the Edox like that? Sorry if this is a dumb question but you know a thing or two about soldering.

That guy you linked used too much solder for the diodes, and not enough solder for the switch pins. There should be solder coming out of the hole. There is a higher risk of cold joints when you don't put enough solder (especially the very bottom right hole in the pic). Most of the time, you only really need an electrical connection, but specifically ergo-doxes need a fully complete solder joint because it's all the mechanical support that switch has. The acrylic plate does nothing to actually lock down the switch.

I noticed the switches for sure, the diodes didn't catch my eye though. What should the correct amount of solder look like on a SMD diode?

[WhiteFireDragon]

Very tiny amounts. They should bulge out. Although, that's not too terrible as long as there is a connection. It's easier to control the amount of solder if you use solder wire sizes 0.15" or 0.20". Anything else will be too thick and you'll most likely add too much.

[germy]

Is stuff that sounds too good to be true usually not true?

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/220V-HAKKO-FX-951-Soldering-Station-Hakko-Iron-Hakko-Soldering/547462230.html

[Melvang]

That is a bulk price of 5 units or more plus shipping from overseas if I read that site correctly.

[germy]

It's listed for $262ish on Amazon. How much does that station cost you guys locally in the US from a Fry's or something?

Anyways, I finally got a hold of a seller online. Its OEM ):

[tjcaustin]

That is a bulk price of 5 units or more plus shipping from overseas if I read that site correctly.

No, the 5 unit price is a price break, it looks to be that price listed, but the shipping charge is equal to the unit price.

[germy]

Yup it is referring to just one unit. Anybody can chime in on the price of the soldering station at brick and mortar stores in the US? Thinking of asking someone to buy one to ship it over and wanted to get a gauge of the price difference between that and the online prices.

[yasuo]

Goat desolder also good?

[Photekq]

So, I'm about to buy an OG soldapullt, but they have a $25 minimum. I figure picking up some wick while I'm at it couldn't hurt.. Is edsyn wick any good, if so which of their wicks would you guys recommend?

[SpAmRaY]

So, I'm about to buy an OG soldapullt, but they have a $25 minimum. I figure picking up some wick while I'm at it couldn't hurt.. Is edsyn wick any good, if so which of their wicks would you guys recommend?

I think if you call they wave the $25 minimum.

[Photekq]

So, I'm about to buy an OG soldapullt, but they have a $25 minimum. I figure picking up some wick while I'm at it couldn't hurt.. Is edsyn wick any good, if so which of their wicks would you guys recommend?

I think if you call they wave the $25 minimum.

Oh.. that's cool. Anyway, I might as well pick up some wick anyway, especially if edsyn make good stuff.

[oTurtlez]

So, I'm about to buy an OG soldapullt, but they have a $25 minimum. I figure picking up some wick while I'm at it couldn't hurt.. Is edsyn wick any good, if so which of their wicks would you guys recommend?

I think if you call they wave the $25 minimum.

That's nice of them. I never knew that!

[SpAmRaY]

So, I'm about to buy an OG soldapullt, but they have a $25 minimum. I figure picking up some wick while I'm at it couldn't hurt.. Is edsyn wick any good, if so which of their wicks would you guys recommend?

I think if you call they wave the $25 minimum.

That's nice of them. I never knew that!

Well I'm sure its YMMV...

[Dubsgalore]

so today i swapped most of the clear switches from my poker, and put in mx whites i recieved from a GB. i think this is the 4th time i have taken apart my poker completely and put it back together, but this time i was putting in new switches. it's quickest i have done it so far too, at 1 hour and 45 minutes. the mx whites feel great, the first clicky switches i am ever trying too. they are really cool and nice and tactile. i also couldn't bare the OEM caps i was using on my poker, so i broke down and put on the GMK doubleshots i bought back in May (i had told myself i was saving them for my main gh60). they feel *amazing* and i think they are gonna stay on my poker. i can say that my joints are getting much better and i'm doing a better job overall, and it keeps on getting better everytime i sit down and play with my poker.

[tjcaustin]

so today i swapped most of the clear switches from my poker, and put in mx whites i recieved from a GB. i think this is the 4th time i have taken apart my poker completely and put it back together, but this time i was putting in new switches. it's quickest i have done it so far too, at 1 hour and 45 minutes. the mx whites feel great, the first clicky switches i am ever trying too. they are really cool and nice and tactile. i also couldn't bare the OEM caps i was using on my poker, so i broke down and put on the GMK doubleshots i bought back in May (i had told myself i was saving them for my main gh60). they feel *amazing* and i think they are gonna stay on my poker. i can say that my joints are getting much better and i'm doing a better job overall, and it keeps on getting better everytime i sit down and play with my poker.

I love my white switches a lot.  They're like what blues should be.

[Dubsgalore]

they are around the same weight that i am used to and like, and the actual clickyness is really fun.

They're like what blues should be.

i've heard that from so many people that have tried both

[VesperSAINT]

So my friend's soldering iron which I borrowed and have been using until now... died today... All the lights come on but it won't get hot... Any ways on fixing this thing or is it time for a Yihua? )