Desoldering Through-hole Components

[PointyFox]

I've had a very difficult time trying to desolder plate mounted Cherry MX switches and LEDs with both the Radio Shack Desoldering Iron http://www.buzzillions.com/reviews/radio-shack-45-watt-desoldering-iron-reviews and an Aven solder sucker http://www.amazon.com/Aven-17537-Desoldering-Pump-Anti-Static/dp/B003E48EQ6/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1376626370&sr=8-6&keywords=desoldering .

They don't seem to be able to desolder the solder that is far up the pins or thely suck up solder from one side of the pin.

What does everyone else use and how well does it work?  I'm looking for a new tool at this point before I destroy my Poker 2. 

[Photekq]

I have one that looks EXACTLY the same as the Aven one and it's total ****e. It started jamming on me and caused me to break one of my PCBs a little.

I'm getting the proper Edsyn Soldapullt, I'll let you know how that goes.

[PointyFox]

I have one that looks EXACTLY the same as the Aven one and it's total ****e. It started jamming on me and caused me to break one of my PCBs a little.

I'm getting the proper Edsyn Soldapullt, I'll let you know how that goes.

Yeah, it has like no suction and jams every 3-4 uses.

I'm considering the Hakko 808, but I have no idea if it has more suction than the Radio Shack desoldering iron with bulb.

[Photekq]

I have one that looks EXACTLY the same as the Aven one and it's total ****e. It started jamming on me and caused me to break one of my PCBs a little.

I'm getting the proper Edsyn Soldapullt, I'll let you know how that goes.

Yeah, it has like no suction and jams every 3-4 uses.

I'm considering the Hakko 808, but I have no idea if it has more suction than the Radio Shack desoldering iron with bulb.

The Hakko 808 uses an actual pump instead of just a bulb. I'm pretty sure it'll be a lot better.

[whiskytango]

Yes the 808 dominates the RS bulb iron. I have used the RS iron to desolder over 1000 switches and then I got an 808. The RS iron worked for me but I had to constantly buy new tips. The 808 is simply amazing though in comparison. You pull the trigger and it sucks until you let go.

[alaricljs]

The 808 is the Dyson of affordable solder suckers (obviously without the Dyson price).

[YoungMichael88]

If I ever have to desolder another board I'm buying the 808. I've been using a spring loaded plunger style solder sucker and I'm NOT risking damaging my stuff anymore. No sir. especially if I need to remove LEDs. I want to look foreword to de-soldering instead of dreading it.

[mkawa]

aoyue 474a+!!!

[PointyFox]

Bought a Hakko 808 kit from eBay.  No clue if it will work better.

[MOZ]

Don't forget to post your results.

[TheQsanity]

I have an xtronic it is better than RadioShack but worse than hakko. You get what you pay for. The xtronic tip rusts faster than I thought.

Saulplat is good.

[PointyFox]

I have an xtronic it is better than RadioShack but whose then hakko. You get what you pay for. The xtronic oxidizes more than I expected.

Saulplat is good.

What is this I don't even

[pasph]

aoyue 474a+!!!

I have an aoyue 474a++ great product for the money

[PointyFox]

I got my Hakko 808 and it was much easier to desolder with and much faster.  I did manage to lift a pad off my Poker's PCB, good thing it's double sided.

[StrikeEagleCC]

Glad to hear the 808 worked for you. Desoldering through-hole components from plated through holes can be challenging, especially if the hole is a tight fit for the lead. Lifted pads are common doing this too, since it's easy to apply heat for too long while you're trying to free it up. If you have to do it again, one thing that can make it easier is standing the board on end so that gravity isn't pulling the solder down the hole.

[PointyFox]

I've perfected my technique with the Hakko 808 now.  The secret is to avoid touching the pads and just touch the pin and solder, sucking it up once you are able to wiggle the lead with  the desoldering iron tip.  For desoldering holes without leads, touch the tip to the solder.  You should feel the tip of the iron sink and hit the board once the solder melts.  At that time, suck it up and withdraw the tip.  If you don't feel it sink down after around 1.5-2.0 seconds, try to suck it up and withdraw the tip.  If it doesn't come up, add more solder and retry after waiting a few seconds for it to cool off.