Got the Hakko 808 in yesterday, and tried it out for a few hours...
So far it's worked well on a new-ish G80-3000 PCB, desoldered all 104(?) switches in less than an hour. Also desoldered some switches on a Televideo PCB and a Marquardt keyboard, these did not go as smoothly.
The Futuba switches have thick pins, as they are also screws to hold the switch together, that plus the PCB is pretty thick as well made for slow going. Solder would melt on the surface, engaging the vacuum pulled up most of it, but there was usually a residue left that I couldn't extract.
The Marquardt board was better, but there they installed the switch diodes with one leg bent over and soldered flat, which meant I had to desolder them once, straighten out the wire, and desolder them a second time, with varying degrees of success.
I left the 808 temp on the default setting, should I increase the temperature when working on these thicker PCBs? Or is this a common issue with older solder? Should I look into a really thin tip for the Hakko, to get down into the PCB holes?
I'm guessing the Marquardt and Televideo boards used lead solder, the G80 has a RoH sticker on it so I'm assuming it's lead-free.