Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)

[user 18]

What is the measurement of the "Enter" key on the Pok3r?


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2.25 units width for the ANSI version, remarking just in case there is an ISO one.

So then 1.75 would be tab and 2 would be something else, correct?


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Tab is 1.5. 1.75 would be caps lock. 2 units is backspace.

[9fiftyfive]

What is the measurement of the "Enter" key on the Pok3r?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

2.25 units width for the ANSI version, remarking just in case there is an ISO one.

So then 1.75 would be tab and 2 would be something else, correct?


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Tab is 1.5. 1.75 would be caps lock. 2 units is backspace.

Thanks then


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[streetwizzur]

So I built my gh60 rev. C. I know it supports a few leds (WASD, etc) but I need resistors, what kind would I need to get? There seems to be through holes on the pcb where they would go.

[Blaise170]

Does anyone here offer handwiring services? Searching the artisan forum is rough. If I can't find someone I'll attempt it myself but... I'd rather not.

[SpAmRaY]

Does anyone here offer handwiring services? Searching the artisan forum is rough. If I can't find someone I'll attempt it myself but... I'd rather not.

You can always post a WTB Handwiring Services in classifieds buy be specific about what you want.

[MOZ]

So I built my gh60 rev. C. I know it supports a few leds (WASD, etc) but I need resistors, what kind would I need to get? There seems to be through holes on the pcb where they would go.

Depends on what LEDs you intend to use. For most LEDs rated at 20mA, ~2V, people use anything between 133 - 1500ohms.

[CommonCurt]

So I built my gh60 rev. C. I know it supports a few leds (WASD, etc) but I need resistors, what kind would I need to get? There seems to be through holes on the pcb where they would go.

Depends on what LEDs you intend to use. For most LEDs rated at 20mA, ~2V, people use anything between 133 - 1500ohms.

When I had that same question I was told pretty much the same thing.

I was told these should work so I or ordered them https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0185FC5IG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I still haven't built my GH60 yet though to test them out.

[MOZ]

There's a number of things to factor, maximum current draw of each pin on the MCU, total maximum draw of the MCU, current characteristics of the LED and how bright you want them to be. 1k is pretty safe.

[Fullcream]

What have I done to my GON?
So all I wanted to do to my Nerd60 was desolder the LED's
Pop the switch tops off and push my 2x3x4 LED's down under the switch top and solder them in place down there.

First I did the whole middle row, checked after and no problems everything worked, then did the bottom 2 rows, plugged it in and now the following switches no longer register.


Certainly looks like some sort of pattern. Any ideas on what I have broken?

Note: I have no switches assigned to ~ and the left winkey on base layer

[MOZ]

What have I done to my GON?
So all I wanted to do to my Nerd60 was desolder the LED's
Pop the switch tops off and push my 2x3x4 LED's down under the switch top and solder them in place down there.

First I did the whole middle row, checked after and no problems everything worked, then did the bottom 2 rows, plugged it in and now the following switches no longer register.

Show Image

Certainly looks like some sort of pattern. Any ideas on what I have broken?

Note: I have no switches assigned to ~ and the left winkey on base layer

What type of diodes are used on the board?

[SpAmRaY]

What have I done to my GON?
So all I wanted to do to my Nerd60 was desolder the LED's
Pop the switch tops off and push my 2x3x4 LED's down under the switch top and solder them in place down there.

I've never heard of putting the leds under the switch top, is that a thing now?

[Fullcream]

What have I done to my GON?
So all I wanted to do to my Nerd60 was desolder the LED's
Pop the switch tops off and push my 2x3x4 LED's down under the switch top and solder them in place down there.

First I did the whole middle row, checked after and no problems everything worked, then did the bottom 2 rows, plugged it in and now the following switches no longer register.

Show Image

Certainly looks like some sort of pattern. Any ideas on what I have broken?

Note: I have no switches assigned to ~ and the left winkey on base layer

What type of diodes are used on the board?

Umm. Hmm I'm total noob with diodes and resistors and all that stuff. I just got the board presoldered.
I guess the diodes are SMD? Or was it something else you needed to know?
I can just take a pic of the pcb if you want.

@spamray. Yeah I had not read about it until not long ago. I wish I knew it from the start and did it like that to begin with.
Put them inside under the switchtop if you have ckear switches and the glow is dispersed better. Also no desoldering to remove switch tops and no hassles with keycap clearance at all.

[MOZ]

A photograph of the PCB as well as where you read about the "true" in-switch LEDs would help. I'd also suggest making a new thread, as this doesn't seem like such a simple question, where you'll get a straightforward answer.

[Fullcream]

Yeah I guess you're right it isn't really a simple question at all.
I'll make a thread soon. Thanks for your help though.

[zephyr11]

I have a noob question.

is there a TKL hotswappable mx compatible keyboard, that is either black or silver plastic or aluminum framed?

best if it is also barebones, no keycaps or switches.

 
thanks!

[Aristo]

Hi folks!

I need some help identifying a Model M, and this seemed like the perfect place to ask! Here's the keyboard in question:



Now, it was advertised as a 42H1292, but I thought that model had the logo in the top left in an oval. Wikipedia says that the only model with a logo under the lock lights is the 1393669, and that has a Yugoslav layout. So I'm pretty puzzled as to what this keyboard really is. It's definitely PS/2 and the date of manufacture was listed at 02-08-01.
Any help would be appreciated!

[Krustyboomer]

Are there color limits to dyesub caps?  Do most only do black dyesub?  I was trying to get some red dyseub on black caps, but no go.

[SpAmRaY]

Are there color limits to dyesub caps?  Do most only do black dyesub?  I was trying to get some red dyseub on black caps, but no go.

The base color has to be lighter than the color you're dye-subbing.

[Waateva]

Are there color limits to dyesub caps?  Do most only do black dyesub?  I was trying to get some red dyseub on black caps, but no go.

I believe you can only dyesub darker colors on lighter caps, so I don't know if red would work on black caps.

[Krustyboomer]

So every black cap with white lettering is roll printed?  Assuming not double shot or laser/infilled?

[Melvang]

So every black cap with white lettering is roll printed?  Assuming not double shot or laser/infilled?

Depends a long on cap material,  for example for white legends in black caps for pbt,  due sub will not work unless all but the legend is due sub, and I don't know if anyone doing that, or it could be infill, pad printed, or in the case of Vortex a POM double shot legend.  For ABS due sub does not work to my knowledge do to the chemistry of the due not penetrating the plastic but double shot is much easier.

[CPTBadAss]

Hi folks!

I need some help identifying a Model M, and this seemed like the perfect place to ask! Here's the keyboard in question:

Show Image

Now, it was advertised as a 42H1292, but I thought that model had the logo in the top left in an oval. Wikipedia says that the only model with a logo under the lock lights is the 1393669, and that has a Yugoslav layout. So I'm pretty puzzled as to what this keyboard really is. It's definitely PS/2 and the date of manufacture was listed at 02-08-01.
Any help would be appreciated!

Easiest way to ID it is to see the label on the black. Looks like a normal ANSI layout too.

I have a noob question.

is there a TKL hotswappable mx compatible keyboard, that is either black or silver plastic or aluminum framed?

best if it is also barebones, no keycaps or switches.

 
thanks!

No

[potatobot]

Has anyone here reviewed the b.87 replica?


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[Auxo]

Is there an aluminum (bottom) case for the Red Scarf 84 keyboard?

Thanks.

[CPTBadAss]

Is there an aluminum (bottom) case for the Red Scarf 84 keyboard?

Thanks.

Not that I'm aware of but I wouldn't be surprised if something popped up on TaoBao for it.

[Lastpilot]

Does anyone know the SP color codes used in the OTD Wyse DSA keyset?

[STR8_AN94BALLER]

My keyboard LEFT ALT stop working a few mins ago, had to clean the inside of the switch (press down, compressed air bottle with straw) to get it working again.

Normal or?

Greetech Black, Bloody B540, 3+ years of use.

[CPTBadAss]

My keyboard LEFT ALT stop working a few mins ago, had to clean the inside of the switch (press down, compressed air bottle with straw) to get it working again.

Normal or?

Greetech Black, Bloody B540, 3+ years of use.

Pretty normal yes

[katushkin]

I find that Iso alcohol works wonders too. Just need to work the hell out of those switches to make sure the fluid doesn't stay there for too long.

[rand77]

Just finished putting SIP sockets into 68 switches for a Whitefox 68% build.  I have my board ready to solder with 62g zealios / 78g spacebar.

I didn't snap each switch into the plate, rather they appear to be "PCB mounted" as shown in the pictures below. This was done as it was *extremely* difficult to line up the SIP sockets with the holes in the PCB if the switches were snapped into the plate.

Is this how its supposed to be done? Or is there supposed to be a larger gap between the PCB and plate? Just wanted to get feedback from some more experienced people before actually soldering them in.

[dante]

Do Black Alps switches contain the stiffest spring you can (commonly) find for Alps?

[emdude]

I believe so, can't say for certain whether it is just the spring or a combination of the spring and the tactile leaf though; I think it is the latter.  Have a look at this force graph of common Alps switches:



I think SKCM Ambers or Browns may be heavier yet.  Those are much rarer though.

[appleonama]

Just finished putting SIP sockets into 68 switches for a Whitefox 68% build.  I have my board ready to solder with 62g zealios / 78g spacebar.

I didn't snap each switch into the plate, rather they appear to be "PCB mounted" as shown in the pictures below. This was done as it was *extremely* difficult to line up the SIP sockets with the holes in the PCB if the switches were snapped into the plate.

Is this how its supposed to be done? Or is there supposed to be a larger gap between the PCB and plate? Just wanted to get feedback from some more experienced people before actually soldering them in.

To make it easier to align the sip sockets I advice you put an led into sip sockets before you put them on the PCB. Start by placing a switch on all four corners and snapping them into the plate and PCB. Sometimes the switches need a lot of pressure/force to make them go into the PCB due to the PCB-stabs on the switch. Dont be afraid to put force into it placing the switch just make sure you don't bend the pcb too muchh.

[CPTBadAss]

Just finished putting SIP sockets into 68 switches for a Whitefox 68% build.  I have my board ready to solder with 62g zealios / 78g spacebar.

I didn't snap each switch into the plate, rather they appear to be "PCB mounted" as shown in the pictures below. This was done as it was *extremely* difficult to line up the SIP sockets with the holes in the PCB if the switches were snapped into the plate.

Is this how its supposed to be done? Or is there supposed to be a larger gap between the PCB and plate? Just wanted to get feedback from some more experienced people before actually soldering them in.

Nothing looks like it's out of place as far as I can tell.

[MJ45]

Just finished putting SIP sockets into 68 switches for a Whitefox 68% build.  I have my board ready to solder with 62g zealios / 78g spacebar.

I didn't snap each switch into the plate, rather they appear to be "PCB mounted" as shown in the pictures below. This was done as it was *extremely* difficult to line up the SIP sockets with the holes in the PCB if the switches were snapped into the plate.

Is this how its supposed to be done? Or is there supposed to be a larger gap between the PCB and plate? Just wanted to get feedback from some more experienced people before actually soldering them in.

Nothing looks like it's out of place as far as I can tell.

The switches should be fully bottomed (snapped in) the plate. The way you have in now the plate isn't serving any purpose.
@CPTBadAss what are you looking at? 

[rand77]

Thanks for the feedback guys.   I removed all switches and reinstalled them making sure they are flush with the plate.

I managed to get the SIP sockets to easily fit in the PCB holes by using an LED to keep them straight during insertion. 

Keyboard is built and works perfectly now!

Just finished putting SIP sockets into 68 switches for a Whitefox 68% build.  I have my board ready to solder with 62g zealios / 78g spacebar.

I didn't snap each switch into the plate, rather they appear to be "PCB mounted" as shown in the pictures below. This was done as it was *extremely* difficult to line up the SIP sockets with the holes in the PCB if the switches were snapped into the plate.

Is this how its supposed to be done? Or is there supposed to be a larger gap between the PCB and plate? Just wanted to get feedback from some more experienced people before actually soldering them in.

Nothing looks like it's out of place as far as I can tell.

The switches should be fully bottomed (snapped in) the plate. The way you have in now the plate isn't serving any purpose.
@CPTBadAss what are you looking at? 

Just finished putting SIP sockets into 68 switches for a Whitefox 68% build.  I have my board ready to solder with 62g zealios / 78g spacebar.

I didn't snap each switch into the plate, rather they appear to be "PCB mounted" as shown in the pictures below. This was done as it was *extremely* difficult to line up the SIP sockets with the holes in the PCB if the switches were snapped into the plate.

Is this how its supposed to be done? Or is there supposed to be a larger gap between the PCB and plate? Just wanted to get feedback from some more experienced people before actually soldering them in.

To make it easier to align the sip sockets I advice you put an led into sip sockets before you put them on the PCB. Start by placing a switch on all four corners and snapping them into the plate and PCB. Sometimes the switches need a lot of pressure/force to make them go into the PCB due to the PCB-stabs on the switch. Dont be afraid to put force into it placing the switch just make sure you don't bend the pcb too muchh.

Just finished putting SIP sockets into 68 switches for a Whitefox 68% build.  I have my board ready to solder with 62g zealios / 78g spacebar.

I didn't snap each switch into the plate, rather they appear to be "PCB mounted" as shown in the pictures below. This was done as it was *extremely* difficult to line up the SIP sockets with the holes in the PCB if the switches were snapped into the plate.

Is this how its supposed to be done? Or is there supposed to be a larger gap between the PCB and plate? Just wanted to get feedback from some more experienced people before actually soldering them in.

Nothing looks like it's out of place as far as I can tell.

[CPTBadAss]

The switches should be fully bottomed (snapped in) the plate. The way you have in now the plate isn't serving any purpose.
@CPTBadAss what are you looking at?

Got confused and just checked that gap between the plate and the pcb. You're right of course.

[jigg4]

where to get lube for MX-Black Switches and Stickers in europe?
Would like to modify my switches, but cannot find a shop or reseller for the parts. Ordering from USA has really high shipping cost and lasts forever...

[Yuuki]

Hello

1/ What's the default key shorcut for switching between kmac2 backlight mode ?
EDIT : I just found it, it was menu key and escape

2/ Did anyone have any success progamming a kmac 2 on windows 10 ? if yes, how ?

Thanks in advance

[Lastpilot]

Does anyone know the SP color codes used in the OTD Wyse DSA keyset?

Found the answer to my question in case anyone else has the same in the future.

According to the OTD group buy information here:

Colors are as follows: BBI, GSX, GTD, YY

[FoC_Tow]

Are there any places I could order a universal 60 plate from besides GON's? 

Im in need for one on a build im doing for my gf, and only got hhkb ones on LeandreN R4.
(Already shot him a pm to check if theres leftovers)

[CPTBadAss]

Hello

1/ What's the default key shorcut for switching between kmac2 backlight mode ?
EDIT : I just found it, it was menu key and escape

2/ Did anyone have any success progamming a kmac 2 on windows 10 ? if yes, how ?

Thanks in advance

2) https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=51252.0

Are there any places I could order a universal 60 plate from besides GON's? 

Im in need for one on a build im doing for my gf, and only got hhkb ones on LeandreN R4.
(Already shot him a pm to check if theres leftovers)

I'm not super familiar with all the vendors on r/mk but there's no one there that has it in stock? I figured one vendor would. What you listed would be my go-to options.

[FoC_Tow]

Hello

1/ What's the default key shorcut for switching between kmac2 backlight mode ?
EDIT : I just found it, it was menu key and escape

2/ Did anyone have any success progamming a kmac 2 on windows 10 ? if yes, how ?

Thanks in advance

2) https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=51252.0

Are there any places I could order a universal 60 plate from besides GON's? 

Im in need for one on a build im doing for my gf, and only got hhkb ones on LeandreN R4.
(Already shot him a pm to check if theres leftovers)

I'm not super familiar with all the vendors on r/mk but there's no one there that has it in stock? I figured one vendor would. What you listed would be my go-to options.

Thx CPT

Never really checked out r/mk much tbh..
Have seen some of the rather toxic community over there and much prefer it here on GH.

I shot LeandreN a pm asking for leftovers.
GON's plate looks great, gotta check how much shipping would add...

[MOZ]

Sentraq has them, http://sentraq.com/products/60-aluminum-plate-1

[Brammm87]

Anyone if you can buy switch top removal tools in Europe (like these: https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=1363)? I would buy em off mk.com, but the shipping is ridiculous...

[SpAmRaY]

Anyone if you can buy switch top removal tools in Europe (like these: https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=1363)? I would buy em off mk.com, but the shipping is ridiculous...

I think they can probably ship cheaper if you contact them and ask.

If they can't I'm sure I could proxy some for you.

[ideus]

Is there an easy way to setup Space FN on a GON Nerd60?

[CPTBadAss]

Is there an easy way to setup Space FN on a GON Nerd60?

The Nerd programming tool seems pretty easy. Looks like EasyAVR.

[Sifo]

Is there an easy way to setup Space FN on a GON Nerd60?

The Nerd programming tool seems pretty easy. Looks like EasyAVR.

Don't think you can SpaceFN on the default firmware you'll have to do the irreversible process of converting it to TMK.

[ideus]

Is there an easy way to setup Space FN on a GON Nerd60?

The Nerd programming tool seems pretty easy. Looks like EasyAVR.

Don't think you can SpaceFN on the default firmware you'll have to do the irreversible process of converting it to TMK.

The NerdGUI is extremely easy to use; however, it does not have any resource to setup a key with a combination of FN plus other function with a delay in between to allow Space FN actuation key. I wonder what I may gain converting a Nerd into TMK and what I would lost.